Bande à part

Bande à part

By Bande à partSociety & Culture
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Bande à part episodes

  • I Tonya & Monastic Dresses
    We discuss the significance of jeans in the film I,Tonya, and interpreting Claire McCardell’s Monastic dress.
    I,Tonya (2017): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt5580036/
    Axel Yvon on Marithé + François Girbaud (2018): https://www.bonnegueule.fr/marithe-francois-girbaud-histoire-deux-techniciens-mode/
    Igor Kopytoff, 'The cultural biography of things: commodization as process', in Arjun Appadurai, The social life of things, CUP 1986:
    http://socrates.acadiau.ca/courses/engl/rcunningham/ts2012/texts/intro/Kopytoff-Cultural_Biography.pdf
    Jules David Prown, 'The Truth of Material Culture:
    History or Fiction?', in Steven Lubar and W. David Kingery, History from Things, Smithsonian Institution Press 1993, pp. 1-19
    Claire McCardell:
    http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/view/people/asitem/items$0040:6603/
    https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/84055
    Rebecca Arnold, American Look: Fashion and the Image of Women in 1930's and 1940's New York, I.B. Tauris 2008:
    http://www.ibtauris.com/Books/Society--social-sciences/Society--culture-general/Cultural-studies/American-Look-Fashion-and-the-Image-of-Women-in-1930s-and-1940s-New-York
    32 min
  • Pleasure Gardens & Gordon Parks
    We discuss 18th century pleasure gardens and displaying historic fashions, and consider Gordon Parks’ fashion and documentary photographs.
    Miles, Ellie, 'A Museum of Everything: Making the Pleasure Gardens inside the Museum of London', The London Journal, vol. 38, no. 2 (July 2013), pp. 151-165
    The Gordon Parks Foundation: http://www.gordonparksfoundation.org/
    Roth, Lorna, ‘Looking at Shirley, The Ultimate Norm: Colour Balance, Image Technologies, & Cognitive Equity’, Canadian Journal of Communication, vol. 34 (2009), pp. 111-36
    Douglas Sirk, Imitation of Life (1959): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0052918/
    35 min
  • Stiebel, BTS Beauty & Obama
    We discuss Victor Stiebel’s tips for women, backstage beauty and the new Obama portraits.
    LCF Victor Stiebel Archive: https://vads.ac.uk/collections/LCFVS.html
    Beauty Instagrams:
    @patmcgrathreal
    @beautyisboring_
    @violette_fr
    @morgane_martini
    @enywhitehead
    Doreen St. Félix on Amy Sherald's Michelle Obama portrait: https://www.newyorker.com/culture/annals-of-appearances/the-mystery-of-amy-sheralds-portrait-of-michelle-obama
    Vinson Cunningham on Kehinde Wiley's Barrack Obama portrait:
    https://www.newyorker.com/culture/annals-of-appearances/the-shifting-perspective-in-kehinde-wileys-portrait-of-barack-obama
    33 min
  • Passing & Raf Simons
    We discuss the upcoming Conference on fashion and passing, and Raf Simons' references to Christiane F. in his latest collection.
    Passing: Fashion in American Cities conference, 5 May 2018, Courtauld Institute of Art, London:
    https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/passing-fashion-american-cities
    Nella Larsen: http://brbl-archive.library.yale.edu/exhibitions/cvvpw/gallery/larsen.html
    Georg Simmel, Metropolis and Mental Life (1903/1950): http://www.blackwellpublishing.com/content/bpl_images/content_store/sample_chapter/0631225137/bridge.pdf
    Fatberg at Museum of London: https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/museum-london/whats-on/exhibitions/fatberg
    Raf Simons, Fall 2018 collection: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-menswear/raf-simons
    Patrik Sandberg on Raf Simons' show for Dazed (8/2/18):
    http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/38937/1/last-nights-raf-simons-aw18-new-york-show-was-all-about-drugs
    36 min
  • Phantom Thread & Haute Couture
    We discuss Phantom Thread and a visit to the V&A's stores to see haute couture.
    Phantom Thread official site: http://focusfeatures.com/phantom-thread
    Stephanie Zacharek's review for Time (21/12/2017): http://time.com/5075162/phantom-thread-movie-review/
    Maytime in Mayfair (1949): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0041647/
    Extract from Making Fashion (1938): https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=g-7z2OiiqzA
    Callot Soeurs, 1922, V&A: http://m.vam.ac.uk/collections/item/O140706/afternoon-dress-callot-soeurs/
    Madeleine Vionnet, 1937, V&A: http://m.vam.ac.uk/collections/item/O319608/dress-vionnet-madeleine/
    Elsa Schiaparelli, 1938, V&A: http://m.vam.ac.uk/collections/item/O15665/the-circus-collection-evening-ensemble-elsa-schiaparelli/
    Jacques Fath, 1949, V&A: http://m.vam.ac.uk/collections/item/O120382/dress-with-swag-fath-jacques/
    Christian Dior, 1947/55, V&A:
    http://m.vam.ac.uk/collections/item/O75379/bar-skirt-suit-dior-christian/
    33 min
  • Valentino & Weimar Fashion
    We discuss why we think the latest Valentino haute couture collection was designed to be drawn and the women photographers that captured Weimar fashions.
    Valentino Spring 2018 Couture: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-couture/valentino#review
    Richard Haines Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/richard_haines/?hl=en
    Richard Brody on People On Sunday (1930): https://www.newyorker.com/culture/richard-brody/movie-week-people-sunday
    Frieda Riess or Die Riess: http://www.dasverborgenemuseum.de/exhibits/exhibit/die-riess-44-en
    Yva: http://www.dazeddigital.com/artsandculture/article/20704/1/yva-shattered-vision
    Rudolf Schlichter: http://www.gseart.com/Artists-Gallery/Schlichter-Rudolf/Schlichter-Rudolf-Biography.php
    Mila Ganeva - Women in Weimar Fashion (2008: https://boydellandbrewer.com/women-in-weimar-fashion.html
    31 min
  • Plastic Macs & Tote Bags
    We discuss Kim Jones’ finale at Louis Vuitton, the proliferation of plastic and nylon raincoats in the menswear shows, and Bonnie Cashin’s inventive bag designs.
    Wear and Tear by Tracy Tynan: http://www.simonandschuster.com/books/Wear-and-Tear/Tracy-Tynan/9781501123696
    Kim Jones Instagram: @mrkimjones
    Dries Van Noten instagram: @driesvannoten
    See all the shows on Vogue’s Runway App
    bonniecashin.org
    25 min
  • Dissecting The Deuce
    We discuss the costumes of The Deuce (HBO 2017).
    The Deuce (2017) http://www.imdb.com/title/tt4998350/
    Anna Terrazas hhttp://www.imdb.com/name/nm2607465/
    Taxi Driver (1976)http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0075314/
    The Panic in Needle Park (1971) http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0067549/
    Katzelmacher (1969) http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0064536/
    https://www.nytimes.com/2017/10/27/style/sex-worker-prostitute-fashion-the-deuce-blade-runner.html
    https://fashionista.com/2017/09/hbo-the-deuce-costumes
    29 min
  • Visible Mending & Unzipped
    We discuss Visible Mending and Unzipped, the 1995 documentary about Isaac Mizrahi by Douglas Keeve. See links below.
    Visible Mending
    https://humantextilewellness.wordpress.com/
    http://celiapym.com/
    https://tomofholland.com/
    http://www.woolfiller.com/
    http://www.addresspublications.com/mended-scars/
    http://goldenjoinery.com/#workshop
    Douglas Keeve (director), Unzipped (1995): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0114805/ and https://youtu.be/qNmJKsGylaY
    Ernst Lubitsch (director), I don’t want to be a man (1918): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0010281/ and https://youtu.be/bCmwaXkf8Xg
    Charles Bryant (director), Natacha Rambova (costume design), Salomé (1923): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0013571/ and https://youtu.be/Pt0DSbnf7q8
    25 min

About Bande à part

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Rebecca Arnold & Beatrice Behlen discuss fashion - listen to our personal fashion views in our weekly catch up calls. Rebecca is a fashion historian, Beatrice is curator at the Museum of London.