Have you ever wondered what it feels like to ride a fiberglass board on a 50 foot wall of water that travels faster than a motorcycle and breaks over coral reef in 6 feet of shark-infested water?

The barrel is so wide you can drive an RV through it and not touch the walls of the wave. It’s the best feeling!

From 7-mile long waves in China to tow-in sessions at Tahiti’s famed Teahupoo (pronounced “Cho-poo”), Cheyne Magnusson is no stranger to big waves. In this week’s episode of the Better Human Project we unpack what it takes to succeed at the highest level and how to balance the fearlessness and humility required to ride – and survive – some of natures most awe-inspiring waves.

Cheyne also shares the wisdom from his mentors that has enabled him to avoid the pitfalls of stardom, to enjoy a long career, and how the next chapter  of his life is focused on helping the future generation of surfers – including mentorship, wave parks and his special mission with Surfing For Autism.

[embedyt] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cAGABdvv5u8[/embedyt]

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