📍 Location: Merel’s Village and surrounding chiefdom, Sierra Leone

📝 Episode Notes

Good day — November 9th.

After staying overnight in the village, I spent the day exploring more of the chiefdom. Every time Merel introduced me, it was as her “uncle,” because in Sierra Leone everyone is considered family. No further questions are asked — it’s just how things work.

We visited the healthcare facility again, where most of Merel’s work takes place. The clinic focuses on preventive care, malaria treatment, and prenatal care, given the many children in the village. Merel’s work is always at the clinic, not at individual homes.

We also took time to walk around the village and take in the surroundings. There are many nearby villages, and most children walk a long distance to attend school every day. Wells are scattered throughout the village, though not all function properly, so improvements are needed in the future.

It was time to say goodbye. The visit was extremely worthwhile, and I felt immense gratitude for the experience. People in the village are incredibly friendly and resourceful. Some work in the local gold mines, which are reportedly not legal, while government workers often go unpaid.

As I made my way back to the main highway, children called out “Apato,” which means “white man” in Creole. It wasn’t meant offensively — they were just having fun. Merel speaks Creole fluently, so she translated speeches and helped me communicate with the local people when I spoke a few words in return.

I also had the chance to see little Meryl, Merel’s namesake. She was born as part of triplets during Merel’s absence. Everyone in the village is incredibly warm and welcoming.

The return journey to McKinney was smooth, with a couple of small stops along the highway for greetings. The first nine kilometers were on a paved road, which allowed for faster travel. I arrived back at the Woosam Hotel to catch up on administrative work and spend the next two nights resting before hopefully continuing on to Freetown.

Another unforgettable day in Sierra Leone.

⏱️ Key Moments

• 00:20 — Walking the chiefdom and being introduced as Merel’s “uncle”
• 01:00 — Visiting the healthcare clinic focused on preventive care and malaria
• 01:45 — Observing village life, schools, and wells
• 02:30 — Saying goodbye and reflecting on the gratitude of villagers
• 03:00 — Children calling out “Apato” and language translation by Merel
• 03:40 — Meeting little Meryl, Merel’s namesake born as part of triplets
• 04:15 — Return journey to McKinney, highway stops, and reflections on the day
• 04:50 — Back at the Woosam Hotel to rest and catch up on tasks

📍 Location: Merel’s Village, Sierra Leone

📝 Episode Notes

Good day — November 8th.

I spent more time talking with Chris Roller today, and the stories he shares are out of this world. He recently finished a huge solar project with dozens of stations, and now he’s planning to ride a small motorbike back to Freetown before returning to Botswana for his next project.

After that, I made my way to see Merel and bumped into Abdul again. We packed up and made a short extra trip to retrieve a forgotten Wi-Fi piece. As we traveled, the landscape changed — hills, rivers, and areas affected by mining. Some rivers were murky from bauxite and gold mining, which is partially tolerated, but it’s complicated because villagers rely on these rivers for bathing and washing.

We traveled the last nine kilometers on a dirt road, which took about half an hour. When we arrived at Merel’s village — the furthest of the three from McKinney — she was settled in and doing very well. She had learned Creole, and the villagers embraced me as her “uncle,” which is how family ties are easily formed there.

The villagers were excited for my arrival and even organized a welcome “concert” of drumming, singing, and clapping — mostly led by the women — with speeches in my honor. Merel is considered the village princess, and the chief oversees multiple villages. The whole community made me feel incredibly welcomed.

We walked through the village, visiting schools and the local health clinic where Merel spends most of her time. The clinic is small, with limited resources: one well, non-operating toilets, and around twelve staff members, including just one nurse. Merel focuses a lot on children and maternal health. While I was there, I got to meet two of the triplets born while she was away, and one of them was named after her.

Life in the village is humble: water is mostly from wells, households pump their own water, and mosquito protection is limited. Many families have multiple wives, so children are abundant. Schools serve the village and surrounding areas, requiring some kids to walk from neighboring towns. NGOs provide important support to supplement government services.

The day was unforgettable. I even got to take a few more photos than usual, capturing the people and energy of the village. I stayed overnight and planned to return to McKinney the next day.

Another amazing journey in Sierra Leone.

⏱️ Key Moments

• 00:20 — Talking more with Chris Roller and hearing his solar project stories
• 01:15 — Traveling with Merel and Abdul, retrieving forgotten Wi-Fi
• 02:00 — Observing rivers affected by bauxite and gold mining
• 02:50 — Traveling the last nine kilometers on dirt roads to Merel’s village
• 03:30 — Village welcome concert with drumming, singing, and speeches
• 04:15 — Visiting schools and the health clinic where Merel works
• 05:00 — Meeting newborn triplets, including one named after Merel
• 05:45 — Observations on village life, wells, mosquitoes, and NGOs
• 06:30 — Overnight stay in the village and reflection on the day

📍 Location: Makeni, Sierra Leone

📝 Episode Notes

Good day — November 7th. Merel was planning to come back into town, grab a taxi, and meet up with me so we could walk into the center together. We thought we might meet Abdul and Maxwell as well — both of them Peace Corps workers just like Merel. As it turned out, everyone arrived at the same time, and the four of us set off together.

They’ve all created a little support network for themselves — connected through phones, WhatsApp, and good old Peace Corps camaraderie. I hadn’t met Maxwell or Abdul yet, so this was my first chance to get to know them. We walked toward town, skirted the market, and eventually reached the bank, which they all need to visit about once a month. They were both delightful people right from the start.

Maxwell is from the U.S. and is doing a teaching assignment in a small town not too far from McKinney. Abdul is doing similar work to Merel — not medical procedures like vaccinations, but administrative support and community health work, making sure people feel supported, heard, and cared for.

We ended up sharing a meal together — shawarma-style wraps at Papa’s Restaurant, a little second-floor place where we were the only customers. I honestly don’t know how they stay in business, but it was a perfect spot for long conversations about Peace Corps life and everything else under the sun. What those three are doing is incredible — they don’t make much money at all. They get a stipend, and a bit more added the longer they stay, but it’s really about the experience and the service. Something they’ll carry with them forever.

Eventually we split up. They headed back to Abdul’s house, and I went along with Merel to see her hangout before returning to the hotel to catch up on things I needed to do. We planned for me to pick her up the next morning to visit the village where she works — quite a journey.

Later that evening, I had the pleasure of meeting Chris Roller, an American engineer — and not just one type of engineer, but practically all types rolled into one. He’s been working across Africa since 2003 and currently lives in Botswana. He’s also lived in Alaska and a whole list of countries in between. Truly an incredible person.

Thanks for coming along. See you next time.

⏱️ Key Moments

• 00:20 — Meeting up with Merel, Abdul, and Maxwell
• 01:10 — Walking into town and stopping by the market
• 01:45 — Monthly bank trip for the Peace Corps crew
• 02:30 — Introducing Maxwell and Abdul and their Peace Corps roles
• 03:40 — Sharing shawarmas at Papa’s Restaurant
• 04:20 — Reflections on Peace Corps service and their dedication
• 05:10 — Visiting Merel’s hangout and parting ways
• 06:00 — Meeting Chris Roller, the multi-discipline engineer with decades in Africa

📍 Location: Makeni

📝 Episode Notes

Good day — November 6th. I'm running a day behind, but I managed to call my son, Nathan, to wish him a happy birthday. Celebrating across continents isn’t always simple, but we made it work.

I knew that Meryl would be coming into McKinney this afternoon. I’ve met her a few times before, mostly when she was young and her family lived near Seattle before moving to Denver. She was born in the Netherlands, so she holds both American and Dutch passports. Her dad’s career in IT — Nokia, Microsoft, Dish — took them all over.

She told me she’d arrive in the afternoon, and true to her word, she did. We had a wonderful time catching up by the pool. She’s such an absolute delight to be around, and sharing dinner together was one of the highlights of the day.

Later, I drove her to stay with Abdul — another Peace Corps volunteer living a bit outside of town. The drive turned out to be longer than expected, and by the time I made it back it was already dark. Turning into the hotel parking lot, I misjudged the angle a bit and bent one of the steps on the right side of the car. Nothing serious — easily fixed.

I also enjoyed a swim at the hotel. It felt good to stay put for a change and not be on the road all day, even though I still had a little bit of driving.

Thanks for coming along with me. Catch you next time.

⏱️ Key Moments

• 00:35 — Calling my son Nathan for his birthday across continents
• 01:20 — Recounting past memories with Meryl and her family's moves
• 02:05 — Poolside catch-up and dinner together
• 03:10 — Driving Meryl to Abdul’s place outside of town
• 03:45 — Returning after dark and bending the car’s step
• 04:15 — Enjoying a swim and a restful pause from constant driving

📍 Location

Kadam Hotel & Kambia, Sierra Leone

📝 Episode Notes

Good day. November 5, 2025. I’m staying at the Kadam Hotel in Kambia, which has its own well and water tank. Breakfast wasn’t included, so I picked up some fried bananas on the way. Today was special because I finally got to meet Summa, a local Peace Corps supporter, thanks to Merle Adrianze, who had recently worked in Sierra Leone.

Summa and I met at a junction in Kambia part two and went to a small place to try Yatari, a local drink similar to tea or coffee. Summa is an incredible guide—bright, funny, and deeply connected to his community. He grew up in Kambia, studied in Freetown, and taught at an international school. He showed me around his town, including the hospital, which was basic but functional, and the school where he teaches. I even got to meet the school administrator and president—our conversation was lively, as driving from the Netherlands to Sierra Leone is not exactly a daily topic!

We toured classrooms and saw nurses being educated. Despite limited resources, the school manages to make things work. Around 2–3 PM, Summa took me to his home to meet his wife and two daughters. His wife prepared an amazing dish with fried fish, fried bananas, and coleslaw that I could take along for the road. Driving back to the school involved navigating sandy, rocky, and bumpy roads, but it was part of the adventure.

After parting ways with Summa, I headed to McKenney to stay at the Wusam Hotel, recommended by Merle. Hotels are key for good rest, Wi-Fi, and administrative tasks. The hotel even had a pool, which was a nice bonus. I plan to stay here for the next three nights before continuing the journey. It was an incredible day—meeting amazing people, experiencing local culture, and seeing Kambia from the inside.

⏱️ Key Moments

• 00:00 — Waking up at Kadam Hotel, basic amenities but water is available
• 00:45 — Breakfast of local fried bananas
• 01:20 — Contacting Summa, Peace Corps supporter, via Merle Adrianze
• 02:10 — Meeting Summa at Kambia junction and trying Yatari
• 03:00 — Touring Kambia: local hospital and school
• 04:15 — Meeting school administrator and president, touring classrooms
• 05:30 — Visiting Summa’s home, meeting his wife and daughters
• 06:20 — Sampling homemade Sierra Leonean dish to go
• 07:10 — Navigating sandy, rocky roads back to school
• 08:00 — Departing for McKenney and checking into Wusam Hotel
• 08:40 — Enjoying hotel amenities and planning the next three nights

📍 Location

Conakry, Guinea → Kambia, Sierra Leone

📝 Episode Notes

Today was all about finally securing my visa for Sierra Leone after yesterday’s delays. First, we needed to pay the $80 fee for each of us—me, Michael, and Freddy. They walked to a nearby bank to handle the payments while I stayed behind to organize the car. Their plan was to start walking again once we left the city; they’ve been walking since Senegal, covering about 30 km a day, finding villages where they can sleep under a roof and pay someone to cook. With their excellent French, they’ve been thriving out here.

When they returned, we realized the bank still owed me $20 in change, so we made another trip—this time through much easier traffic than the gridlock we hit the night before. After that, it was back across town to the embassy, where the final signature was still pending. At noon they asked us to return at four, but I convinced them to let us come at two. We killed some time trying to find a post office to pick up an NL sticker letter—only to discover it wasn’t the main branch. Another task postponed.

At 2 PM we returned to the embassy and finally walked out with our passports and Sierra Leone visas. A huge relief.

We left the city so Michael and Freddy could resume walking toward Sierra Leone. After saying our goodbyes at a gas station—where I filled both of my 90-liter diesel tanks—I pressed on toward the border. The N4 route was almost perfectly smooth, a blessing considering how often potholes slow everything down. I reached the border while it was still light, and the crossing was unusually straightforward: both sides shared the same building, just separated by a gate. Even the Carnet de Passage processing went smoothly, despite the official being distracted by a soccer game.

Once across, I made it to Kambia just as darkness fell. After checking into the Kadam Guest House, I headed into town to find food. A policeman saw me looking around, hopped into my car, and guided me to a restaurant. He joined me for conversation but refused food. After dropping him back at the station, I returned to the hotel for the night.

⏱️ Key Moments

• 00:00 — Starting the day with the goal of finally getting the Sierra Leone visa
• 01:20 — Michael and Freddy walk to the bank while I prep the car
• 03:00 — Learning their story: walking 30 km a day, past Africa overland trips
• 04:10 — Returning from the bank and heading back for my missing change
• 05:00 — Driving easily through the city after yesterday’s gridlock
• 06:15 — Back to the embassy; told to return at 4 PM
• 07:00 — Attempting to retrieve my NL sticker letter at the wrong post office
• 08:10 — Changing money with a local who also works in Germany
• 09:00 — Returning to the embassy at 2 PM and finally receiving our visas
• 10:00 — Leaving the city so the guys can resume their walking journey
• 11:00 — Filling both diesel tanks and saying goodbye to Michael and Freddy
• 12:00 — Driving the N4: smooth, pothole-free, a perfect stroke of luck
• 13:30 — Crossing the Guinea–Sierra Leone border in a shared building
• 14:40 — Watching officials juggle soccer and Carnet de Passage stamps
• 15:20 — Arriving in Kambia at dusk and finding the Kadam Guest House
• 16:00 — A helpful policeman guides me to dinner and chats along the way
• 17:00 — Ending the night at the hotel.

📍 Location

Conakry, Guinea

📝 Episode Notes

Today turned into one of those travel days where nothing works the way it should, yet everything somehow works out anyway. I started the morning with the usual hotel breakfast—simple sandwich, egg, and coffee—and set out on what I thought would be a straightforward mission: getting my visa for Sierra Leone.

Right away, the address for the embassy was wrong. After wandering around and getting help from a policeman-in-training who rode with me across town, I finally reached the right location. Inside, I met two Swiss cousins, Michael and Freddy, who were trying to do the same thing. But we were all turned down because our Guinea visas were just paper slips, not stickers in our passports. The only way to fix it? Go to the airport—despite the fact we had all come in overland.

So the three of us squeezed into my car—thankfully I’d installed that second seat before leaving the Netherlands—and crawled through Conakry traffic to the airport. Freddy got his new visa first, and then the system broke. Hours later they fixed it, and the rest of us got ours, complete with photos and all ten fingerprints.

We raced back to the embassy, arriving just before closing, only to learn we had to pay at a specific bank across town. We made it… five minutes after they closed.

That meant pushing everything to the next day. Michael and Freddy decided to move to my hotel to make things easier—and we ended the day with a great dinner together. The night before, I’d also had dinner with Christoph Roller, the E-bike traveler who believes peace spreads person to person, conversation by conversation. Powerful stuff.

Still no Sierra Leone visa—but we’re definitely working on it.

⏱️ Key Moments

• 00:00 — Starting the day with my typical hotel breakfast
• 01:05 — Arriving at the wrong Sierra Leone embassy address
• 02:00 — A policeman-in-training helps guide me across town
• 03:10 — Meeting Michael and Freddy, fellow visa-seekers
• 04:00 — All three of us get rejected due to our paper Guinea visas
• 05:00 — Deciding to drive together to the airport
• 06:00 — Squeezing everyone into the custom second seat in my car
• 07:10 — Reaching the airport and the visa system breaking after Freddy
• 08:00 — Waiting two hours for the system to come back online
• 08:45 — Finally getting our visas with photos and fingerprints
• 09:20 — Rushing back to the embassy before closing
• 10:00 — Learning we need to pay at a bank that had already closed
• 11:00 — Michael and Freddy decide to stay at my hotel for convenience
• 12:00 — Ending the day with dinner and reflecting on Christoph’s message of peace

Location

Guinea-Bissau — hotel stay and local reflections before departure

Episode Notes

Good day! November 2, 2025, marked Johan’s last day traveling with me on this journey. He arranged a late-night flight to Paris, connecting on to Madrid, and then a train to Alcaceros to continue his plans. The morning started with a small hiccup—a one-hour flight delay—but everything eventually worked out.

Johan also had the opportunity to meet Christoph Roller, a remarkable German pastor in his 70s who spent six years in Nigeria and continues to inspire across Africa. Hearing his stories was humbling and motivating.

The rest of the day was more relaxed. Johan packed his things while I caught up on some personal work. Overnight, a heavy rain shower had come through, giving the cars a much-needed wash. We also discovered the hotel had a unique resident—a pet antelope named Sailor, who was friendly enough to eat out of your hand.

Since it didn’t make sense for me to drive to the airport, Johan took a taxi, and we said our goodbyes in this hidden gem of a hotel. Traveling with him has been amazing, sharing experiences across incredible places—from the hard-to-reach hotels to the most memorable, like Sunset Beach Hotel in The Gambia. Africa truly delivered everything one could expect: rough roads, simple accommodations, and unforgettable adventures.

It’s been a pleasure having Johan along, and I’m looking forward to the next leg of this journey.

Key Moments

• Saying goodbye to Johan as he prepares for his late-night flight
• Meeting Christoph Roller, an inspiring pastor with a life across Africa
• Catching up on work while Johan packed
• Experiencing a heavy rain shower—nature’s car wash
• Discovering the hotel’s friendly pet antelope, Sailor
• Reflecting on the most memorable accommodations, including Sunset Beach Hotel in the Gambia
• Appreciating the full spectrum of African travel—adventures, challenges, and unforgettable experiences

Location

Guinea — from rural backroads near the Sua Piti Dam to the chaotic streets of Conakry

Episode Notes

I woke up in a tent for the first time on this trip—soaked ground from the night’s rain, cow chips to dodge, but otherwise a peaceful start after yesterday’s battle with the mud. The morning roads were slow, rough, and winding, and for 50 kilometers I had to practically sculpt my way through the sculpted tracks. Every tiny village felt like a reward, especially when I could grab a small cup of strong roadside coffee.

Eventually, the rough trail opened up as I reached the Sua Piti hydropower dam on the Conchure River—one of Guinea’s biggest energy projects. From there, the pavement finally started, and for a moment I thought I’d make great time. Not quite. Once I hit the N3, the road alternated between smooth stretches and brutally rough 100-meter sections. And then came Conakry.

Conakry felt like a 40-kilometer bottleneck—narrow, crowded, and pulsing with traffic complications in every direction. Cars on both sides started driving into oncoming lanes just to get ahead, turning the whole situation into controlled chaos. After a very long, exhaust-filled crawl, I finally reached Hotel Azul before dark.

The hotel had looked promising online, but in person it was tucked away down a rough dirt road, with a pool that hadn’t been cleaned in weeks and a beach full of low-tide garbage. Still, it had an Indian restaurant on the top floor with a great view and good food, and after the day I’d had, that was enough.

It was a day of contrasts—tent camping, hydropower megaprojects, endless rough roads, and an unforgettable commute through one of the most challenging traffic situations I’ve ever dealt with. More stories to come.

Key Moments

• Waking up in a tent after a rainy night and avoiding cow chips
• Slow, rugged driving through 50 km of rough backroads
• Roadside village coffee breaks that hit the spot
• Reaching the Sua Piti hydropower dam and finally getting smooth pavement
• Surprise rough patches on the N3 despite the good sections
• Entering Conakry’s 40 km traffic marathon
• Cars driving into oncoming lanes to escape the jam
• Finally arriving at Hotel Azul after a long, exhaust-heavy wait
• Discovering the hotel’s quirks—unclean pool, hidden entrance, but great Indian food
• Reflecting on one of the most challenging traffic experiences of the trip

📍 Location

Rural backroads of Guinea

📝 Episode Notes

On October 31st, the day started with a small detail I forgot to mention from the night before—our very first time eating Norwegian army rations. Johan had brought them along, and honestly, once we added the 400 ml of hot water and let the packet sit for 15 minutes, it turned into a pretty decent meal. Not gourmet, but definitely not bad.

In the morning, we chose not to make coffee since Johan doesn’t drink any, and saving time seemed more important. He wanted to be back by November 1st, which was the plan even though we’d left four days late. We were ready to hit the road—until we weren’t. A little overnight rain had turned the ground under the car into mud, and my tires do not get along with mud.

We tried everything: rocks, branches, whatever we could find. A few locals stopped to help—because people here always help—and still, no luck. So I finally turned to the backup plan: the winch. The first tree we tied to ended up moving instead of the car. Not helpful. The second tree, a smaller but sturdier one, held just enough for the winch to pull us free. It was tight, but it worked. Johan got to experience something truly unplanned and messy—exactly the kind of thing you can’t organize on a trip like this.

Fifteen minutes down the road, we hit another obstacle: a huge tree had fallen across the road. Luckily, others had arrived before us and were already chopping away with axes and saws. Motorbikes could squeeze around, but there was no way the car could. It took about half an hour before the path was clear enough for us to continue.

The rest of the day was painfully slow. I drove carefully, sculpting my way around potholes, mud, water, broken pavement, and the occasional chunk of decent road. We drove all day and barely covered 105 kilometers, often creeping along at 20–25 km/h. But the goal was simple: keep the car alive.

At some point during the day, we found a tiny place selling coffee. For 500 francs, we got tiny cups—they love their sugar here, but thankfully you can add your own. It was fun to pause, chat a bit, and watch life unfold around us.

By evening, once again, there was no town and no hotel, so camping was the only option. This time we found a much better spot near a gravel pit—solid ground, fairly level. We pitched the tent, and the cows wandered around us as we fell asleep. In the morning, we discovered we’d camped right next to a few people guarding charcoal bags. They were protecting the wood destined for Conakry, where charcoal is in high demand. You often see these massive bags stacked on top of cars and trucks—and even people riding on top of them. Safety isn’t exactly the priority out here.

And that wrapped up another slow, unpredictable, memorable day. Thanks for coming along, and see you next time.

⏱️ Key Moments

00:00 — Norwegian Army Rations for Dinner

01:10 — Skipping Morning Coffee0

2:00 — Stuck in the Mud0

3:00 — Locals Join the Effort0

4:00 — Winch Time

5:30 — Fallen Tree Blocking the Road0

6:30 — Restacking the Car0

7:00 — The Slowest 105 Kilometers

08:30 — Tiny Coffee Cups & Local Conversations

09:30 — Finding a Campsite Near a Gravel Pit

10:30 — The Charcoal Story