📍 Location: Tin-Tin Beach → Tarfaya → Laayun, Western Sahara
🎧 Episode Notes (1st person)
Good day, October 7, 2025. We started our morning at Tin-Tin Beach with a nice breakfast at the hotel, getting ready for a day full of unknowns. I never knew if we’d see just one town, maybe two, or none — the options along this stretch are slim, and you need to be prepared for anything, including a potential breakdown. Thankfully, the roads are much improved compared to decades ago: well-traveled four-lane highways make for safe and steady driving.
Our first stop was Tarfaya, a good place for a coffee break. From the road, the coast occasionally appears, rugged and scenic. Along the way, we noticed small cabins with soldiers stationed every few kilometers, guarding the coast — a lonely but important job in such a remote area.
After Tarfaya, we aimed for Laayun (also called Laune). The city appears suddenly after hours of barren desert and rocky landscapes — one moment you’re in nothingness, and the next, there’s a skyline. Laayun feels isolated, like an island in the desert, with vast stretches separating it from the next town.
We stayed at the Saharan Hotel, a relatively new six-story building. Rooms were tight, but it was clean, reasonably priced at around $50, and had a functional internet setup. Walking around the town was an adventure — French and a little English helped, but Arabic and Berber dominate. The shops come alive in the evening, and even the kids play in parks after dark, giving the town a lively feel.
It was another day of contrasts: long stretches of desert roads punctuated by unexpected bursts of city life.
⏱️ Key Moments
- 0:00 — Morning at 10:10 Beach and hotel breakfast
- 0:45 — Preparing for remote travel with essentials, aware of potential breakdowns
- 1:20 — Coffee stop at Tarfaya
- 2:00 — Observing rugged coastline and isolated coastal soldiers
- 2:45 — Approaching Laayun: city appears suddenly after long desert stretches
- 3:30 — Checking in at the Saharan Hotel
- 4:00 — Walking the town: shops, ambiance, and local interactions
- 4:45 — Reflections on the isolation and life along the desert highway