CaucasTalk

If you can’t find Adygea (Adyghea/Adygheya) on a map, or if you never knew that sub-tropical forests grow in the North Caucasus, you’re not alone! Looking for soft rolling forests, deep caves, train rides, and famous cheese? Consider Adygea. One of the most remote republics in the region, it stretches from the north side of the mountains down to neighboring Abkhazia, almost to the Black Sea. Our good friend Rashid gives us key travel info for those interested in checking it out.

Links for Episode 66

Rashid Baychurov: caucasus.proAzishskaya CavernsLago-Naki Plateau

They say that good things come in small packages. That is undeniably true of Ingushetia, the smallest of the North Caucasus Republics. If you’ve been hearing about this place (which you have if you’ve been listening to us!) and are ready to strike out on your own, today’s Travel Tip is for you. Andrew gets down to the details with a local friend to guide you expertly on your virgin foray into the green hills of Ingushetia! (If you’re looking for the foods mentioned here spelled out, check our “Ingush: In Their Own Words” episodes, 33A and 33B! Honestly, I just don’t want to try to type those things out again. . . )

Paying bills has never been so entertaining! Andrew and Eli regale us with tales of trial and triumph as they travail to get things done from the depths of unfathomable bureaucracy. Yet even there we find that people are people, a smile does wonders, and life can be hacked, even in Russia. We’re sure today’s colorful spread of cathartic commentary will bring a smile to anyone’s face who has ever had to stand in line. And that’s all of us.

Ursula GIF credit: https://tinyurl.com/qquazfp

This episode will take you for a ride… on public transportation! And it’s a heck of a lot more interesting than it may seem. With deftness and penetrating insight—and quite a bit of experience—Andrew and Eli examine some of the more colorful aspects of Caucasus life on buses, trams, trolleys, and the ever ubiquitous marshrutkas. If you’ve never witnessed a “window battle,” or if it’s been a few decades since you’ve seen a young man leap out of his seat for a woman, or if you want to know the real importance of proper declination in Russian grammar of numbers, look no further. It’s exotic, it’s surprising, and it’s just a day in the Caucasus life.

Links for Episode 63

Man and woman battle over bus window

Some of the most mundane places we visit in daily life can actually teach us the most about ourselves if we look closely. Come with us as we visit some everyday places in the North Caucasus and unpack a bit of what they’re about. We think you’ll agree that there’s more than meets the eye! Today we explore playgrounds. And trust us, here, they’re not just for kids.

Links for Episode 62

The 83 Year Old Postal Woman> VideoBeyond Red Square: Heart of the Caucasus TourBeyond Red Square: Delightful Dagestan TourOur Patreon Site

If there’s one thing the Caucasus is not short on, its complexity.  Complexity of languages, cultures, borders, history, politics, religion, even food!  But if there’s one thing that balances that complexity—or maybe just outweighs it—it’s beauty. In Episodes 60 and 61 we take a dip into two of these fabulously complex and equally lovely regions: Abkhazia and South Ossetia.  Considered by some “unrecognized states,” they require special care for foreigners when visiting.  So we are getting expert advice from the founder of one of the Caucasus’ first and most successful tour companies, Dima from Caucasus Explorer.  Enjoy this two-part interview! Abkhazian Remix Credit: https://youtu.be/iGxZ8_vaJwY

If there’s one thing the Caucasus is not short on, its complexity.  Complexity of languages, cultures, borders, history, politics, religion, even food!  But if there’s one thing that balances that complexity—or maybe just outweighs it—it’s beauty. In Episodes 60 and 61 we take a dip into two of these fabulously complex and equally lovely regions: Abkhazia and South Ossetia.  Considered by some “unrecognized states,” they require special care for foreigners when visiting.  So we are getting expert advice from the founder of one of the Caucasus’ first and most successful tour companies, Dima from Caucasus Explorer.  Enjoy this two-part interview!Abkhazian Remix Credit: https://youtu.be/iGxZ8_vaJwY

“Shurpa without ayran is like throwing your money to the wind.”—Rashid the Wise

If you want to know the delicious meaning of this proverb—and you should—just listen to today’s dive into Karachay-Cherkessia Republic. Back in the studio we welcome Rashid (see Episode 23) and this guy, well, he just knows everything. Mountain destinations for the adventurous, recipes to try for the more advenurous, and lots of good humor. SEe if you can bear to stay away after hearing this.

Links for Episode 59

Dombay HotelsHotel KristalHotel Kristal (Russian)

Stary Dombay – Cable car comes out of here!Stary Dombay (Russian)

GonachkhirGonachkhir (Russian)

Arkhyz HotelsEnergetik Hotel on River Bolshoi Zhelenchuk

Vertikal HotelVertikal Hotel (Russian)

Food!Zharkoye (meat cooked in sheep butt fat) recipe Susap (salty bubbly yogurt drink)Has Hus in Kislovodsk – tell them Rashid sent you!Has Hus 2

PlacesLake Hurla Kel / Хурла КёлPlateau BermamytMore on Plateau Bermamyt

Rashid’s website: caucasus.pro

Timestamps

2:32 – How to get there5:24 – Dombay: Where to stay9:33 – Arkhyz10:18 – Stories of old13:36 – Arkhyz: Where to stay18:48 – Top cities19:26 – Karahchayesk22:53 – Best local food27:16 – Salty bubbly yogurt after-dinner drink: susap30:07 – Hole-in-the-wall restaurant32:51 – Top 3 places to visit35:42 – Origin of Karachay: “People of Black River”39:15 – Border zone requirements40:32 – Cultural tips

Interest in Chechnya is at an all-time high. It is an ancient, fascinating, complex, and little understood place. Our good friend Abdula, local tour guide and couch surfing host, takes us on a virtual tour of his homeland. He delivers expert tips on where to stay, what to eat, and places not to miss. Many of the foods may be practically impossible to pronounce (see the episode tags), but they’re much easier to eat. We can assure from experience that the flavors—and the perhaps surprisingly warm memories—of a trip to Chechnya will linger with all who visit. 

Links for Episode 58

Bro Steak HouseHeart of Chechnya MosqueLake Kezenoy-AmUshkaloy TowersArgun Gorge

Houston, the eagle has landed . . . in Dagestan! Today’s episode comes to you live (we love saying that) from the sunny shores of the Caspian Sea. There half of our team has permanently relocated! Our podcast now officially straddles the Caucasus range. LOTS of good stuff is happening over here. First, Eli unveils his new ethnographic business venture, Apricot Media & Consulting, LLC. Please check out his website and Instagram (links below). Second, we are venturing into the world of Patreon—seeking your loyal support to continue and to grow our podcast. Finally, we have got some truly one-of-a-kind live coverage of the recent Khabib vs. Poirier UFC championship match. This is an episode you don’t want to miss.

Links for Episode 57

www.apricot.consultingApricot on InstagramVisit our CaucasTalk Patreon page! Support the podcast!