D’Amato & Szabo: Wine Thieves

In this episode, we take a look behind the scenes of one of the wine and spirits industry’s most important trade fairs: Wine Paris and Vinexpo Paris. The Thieves speak with with Rodolphe Lameyse, CEO of Vinexposium, the company that runs the fair – and spoiler alert: Wine Paris and Vinexpo Paris are two names for the same show – Rodolphe explains why the trade fair has a dual name,  and will discuss some of the issues that are most pertinent to the world of wine today, the challenges and opportunities, and the relevance of trade fairs in a digital world. We’ll also get a better understanding of how the trade fair operates and why it should matter to you, no matter what side of the wine trade you are on, should you chose to travel this coming February 12th-14th to the City of Lights (. . . fashion, love, fine wine & fine food).

Wine Paris brings wine and spirits producers together from around the world, with organizers anticipating an increase of 72% in international exhibitors and 50 countries represented. Floor space has been expanded by 25% to accommodate the 3,900 exhibitors, with also a significant increase for spirits, craft drinks, no/low, beer and cider producers. And you can count on 100% of France’s wine regions to be under one roof, as Vinexposium reports.

In addition, Wine Paris also promises to address some of the industry’s most challenging problems such as climate change, a shift in consumer demand and geo-political conflicts amidst economic and sales declines, through a series of masterclasses panels and conferences.

For more information, on how to combine Valentine's Day, Paris, and your career in wine, visit https://wineparis-vinexpo.com.

This episode was produced in partnership with Vinexposium. 

The Wine Thieves are back with part two of a series on the Unità Geografiche Aggiuntivi of Chianti Classico (or UGAs) the recently announced additional geographic units that will begin appearing on labels of the Chianti Classico Gran Selezione category as of this year.  Joining us again are Caterina Mori, Director of Communications for the Chianti Classico Consorzio, and the "Map Man" Alessandro Masnaghetti who literally drew up the map of the 11 new UGS that we’ll be covering in deep detail in this episode. If you haven't already listened to part one, go back to the previous episode as it will be critical to your understanding of this instalment. 

Geology, and the soils derived from these underlying rocks formed an important basis for Masnaghetti’s map-making work. To begin the episode, John and Sara provide a brief recap of Tuscan geology and terminology you'll encounter travelling through the 11 UGAs, along with what can be expected from the wines grown on each of the main "geological units", marine and continental, and the  specific soil types that fall under each.  Masgnaghetti discusses how the various soil types translate into to different organoleptic wine profiles in each UGA, from the macigno, pietraforte, albarese and Formazione di Sillano of the marine formations, to the continental units that include the gravelly-alluvial soils of San Casciano in the north and the lacustrine clay soils typical of the western part of the Castellina UGA. 

The UGA tour  proceeds clockwise, starting from San Casciano in the northwest corner of the Chianti Classico area,  continuing through Greve, Montefiorale, Lamole, Panzano, Radda, Gaiole, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Valgliagli, and finally San Donato in Poggio.

Special thanks to our WineAlign colleague and Chianti Classico ambassador Michael Godel, who kindly chose a song to match the feel and vibe of each of the 11 UGAs for this episode. Acquire some bottles, hit play on the UGA playlist, and taste your way through this historic territory.

Michael Godel's Chianti Classico "UGA Soundtrack"

1.     San Casciano - Feeling Gravity's Pull, R.E.M.

2.     Greve - Red Eyes, The War on Drugs 

3.     Lamole - Herbal Scent, Tom Browne

4.     Montefioralle - More than a Feeling, Boston

5.     Panzano - Fantasy, Earth, Wind & Fire

6.     Radda - People Get Ready, Curtis Mayfield

7.     Gaiole - Fresh, Kool & The Gang

8.     Castelnuovo Berardenga - Into the Great Wide Open, Tom Petty and the Heartbreakers

9.     Vagliagli – Gustosità, Nino Rapicavoli 

10.  Castellina - Ahead by a Century, The Tragically Hip

11.  San Donato in Poggio - Compte à Rebour Adagio, Georges Delerue 

This episode was produced thanks to a Campaign Financed According to EU Regulation No 1308/2013.

In part one of this two-part episode, the Thieves  go behind the scene in Chianti Classico with Caterina Mori, director of Communication for the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico and Alessandro Masnaghetti, aka Map Man Masnaghetti, to take a deep dive into the recently approved “added geographic units” of this important Tuscan region , which were officially signed into law this past July 2023. (Alessandro will be familiar to Wine Thieves listeners - he joined us for an episode devoted to the wines of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano; see episode 22 from season 1). Mori and Masnaghetti share the philosophy behind the Unità Geografiche Aggiuntivi, or simply “UGAs” to English-speaking insiders, the geographic units that divide the rather large Chianti Classico denomination into 11 smaller sub-areas that sometimes, but not always, follow historical communal boundaries, and broadly group these sangiovese-based wines together into more coherent style categories. This is especially relevant given the significant variability of physical and human factors that shape and mould Chianti Classico into so many delicious expressions. 

As a reminder, Masnaghetti is the director and editor of Enogea, an independent Italian wine newsletter founded in 1997 that continues the work of the late great Luigi Veronelli, a legendary Italian wine writer who launched the first independent Italian wine newsletter known as Ex Vinis back in the 1970s.  Alessandro worked with Veronelli, and brought map-making skills to the table to add another dimension to the modern Italian wine narrative. Fast forward to 2023, and Masnaghetti has created dozens of detailed maps of wine regions, mostly around Italy but also a few outside, including Barolo, Barbaresco, Valpolicella and Amarone, Vino Nobile, and even Bordeaux. But his latest magnum opus, and the one most relevant to our two episodes, is the incredibly detailed Atlas of Chianti Classico.

The atlas and its detailed maps and background geological information  (or as Masnaghetti  puts it, “geo-viticultural” information that distills the aspects of geology most relevant to grapegrowing), was commissioned by the Chianti Classico Consorzio, with the main aim of establishing the boundaries for the 11 new UGAs. Masnaghetti’s work is an impressive tome that should be on every wine lover’s shelf, and indeed should be in your hands right now to follow along on these two episodes. You can get yourself a copy at enogea.it (https://www.enogea.it/en/product/chianti-classico-the-atlas/)., or in Canada via  https://www.winoimport.com/ . The maps contained within the atlas show geology, topography, vineyard boundaries, estates, and much much more. 

In the previous episode we spoke with Giovanni Manetti, current president of the Chianti Classico Consorzio and owner of the Fontodi estate in Panzano. Signore Manetti shared loads of valuable information with us on the history and the current status of Chianti Classico, and we touched upon the introduction of these UGAs and what it means to both producers and wine drinkers around the world. So be sure to have a listen to that episode, if you haven’t already, to set the stage for these next two episodes.  Cin Cin! 

This episode was produced thanks to a Campaign Financed According to EU Regulation No 1308/2013.

The first of a three-part journey into  Chianti Classico. in this episode we look at the past, present and future of the denominazione with our special guest, Giovanni Manetti, Chariman of the Chianti Classico Consorzio and proprietor of the venerated Fontodi estate in Panzano. This is Manetti’s second term as the Chairman , where he has been a driving force of innovation and evolution, helping to re-establish Chianti Classico as one of Italy’s, and the world’s, leading quality wine-producing regions. The creation of the Gran Selezione category at the top of the quality pyramid, as well the introduction of UGAs (Unità Geografiche Aggiuntivi), added geographic mentions within the greater Chianti Classico territory, are just two of the invigorating projects which Manetti has championed and pushed through.

The Thieves deliver the latest news regarding Gran Selezione regulations and the new UGAs, but  focus first on the history of the region from Etruscan settlements in the 8th century BC, to the legend of the gallo nero,  the mezzadria sharecropping system that  shaped Chianti Classico as we know it today, Barone Ricasoli's 19th century 'recipe' for Chianti, the 1970s crisis (fiasco?), and the renaissance of quality wine.  There is much to unpack in this multi-faceted region, so important and recognizable to wine lovers around the world.

A happy 307th birthday to Chianti Classico, an anniversary for which we give thanks to the Grand Duke of Tuscany and  patron to the arts, Cosimo dei' Medici III, who famously demarcated the wine region of Chianti in 1716 and created the first legal appellation of origin for wine in the world. Tuscan aficionados won't want to miss this episode that reveals how Chianti Classico's past has set the stage for its modern renaissance.

This episode has been produced in partnership with the Chianti Classico Consorzio and financed according to EU regulation 1308/2013.

The Thieves embark on a South African “wine safari” with  Pieter Walser of Blank Bottle Wines based in Sommerset West near Stellenbosch, one of the most unusual and innovative wine businesses  anywhere, and Peter-Allan Finlayson of Crystallum Wines and Gabrielskloof in the Bot River region. Finlayson is a third generation winemaker and the son of the man who pioneered Pinot Noir winemaking in the Hemel-en-Aarde region, Peter Finlayson, the first winemaker at Hamilton Russell and the founder of Bouchard Finlayson.

You’ll get a clear sense of the fun, irreverent, and innovative nature of the SA wine industry. There’s an entire generation currently scouring the Cape for interesting vineyards and old quirky varieties and crafting a range of exciting wines with little winemaking intervention. These mavericks are playing a vital role in keeping old vines in the ground and supporting small farmers, all the while breathing fresh life into this centuries-old industry and turning the establishment upside down. These radicals of the industry run parallel to the more storied, traditional wine farms of South Africa, some of which have been producing wine for over three centuries, creating one of the most dynamic wine scenes on the planet. 

In the interview with Peter Allan and Pieter, John &  Sara get to the heart of how this multi-faceted industry arose. They'll discuss the role of the KWV, the cooperative founded in 1918, which helped unite winegrowers during a challenging period, to its current state as a cooperative company structure.  They'll discover how a kind of exploratory, guerilla-style winemaking took hold and why a good sub-section of the South African wine industry seems to be hell-bent on dispensing with so many of the wine world’s traditions. This spirit is exemplified by the  Zoo Cru, a loose association of likeminded (similarly manic?) winemakers of which Peter-Allan Finlayson is a founding member,, as well as other “splinter” groups  like the Swartland Revolution, who take fun and wine very seriously, but  themselves, not so much.

And f you've ever thought about how to go about setting up a wine business, you’ll want to strap yourself in for this exploration of the wilder side of the South African wine industry.

This episode was produced in collaboration with Wines of South Africa.

This episode takes a wide-ranging look at biodynamic agriculture, which, perhaps not so coincidentally, seems to be the foundational philosophy underlying a disproportionately large percentage of the world’s best wines. The Thieves speak with two prominent Californian practitioners of biodynamics to discuss several aspects of this philosophy-cum-practical manifesto, first developed by Austrian-born philosopher and social reformer Rudolf Steiner, who lived from 1861-1925.

 Show guests Rodrigo Soto, Chilean-born viticulturist now general manager at Augustín Huneeus’s flagship Napa Valley estate, Quintessa, and John Hamel, the second generation at Hamel Family Wines across the Mayacamas Mountains in Sonoma discuss the practical, mystical and controversial aspects of biodynamic wine production . Both are fervent believers in the power of biodynamic agriculture, and above all, have an unshakeable faith in the power of nature to deliver something in the glass of greater interest than what humankind on its own could offer. 

Listen on for a brief overview of biodynamics, how science is catching up to the sometimes fantastical claims,  the value of certification, the dark side of Steiner's  beliefs and finding balance in nature.

Originally aired November 2022: The Thieves are  back in Europe to explore the wealth of indigenous grape varieties and stunning stunning old vineyards found in Portugal.  Exactly how this sliver of the Iberian peninsula has been able to safeguard traditions, vineyards and distinctive regional character is what Sara and John are out to learn in this special reissue episode. 

They have a hunch that large-volume producers have a role to play, and invite three important guests to investigate: Martim Guedes, the Co-CEO of Aveleda (along with Antonio Guedes). Martim’s great-great grandfather Manoel Pedro Guedes founded Quinta da Aveleda in the Minho region 150 years ago, helping the wines of Vinho Verde achieve international recognition . The company has since expanded to the Douro, Bairrada and Algarve, and exports to more than 70 countries.

Luís Almada is an Executive Board Member of Casa Santos Lima, a family owned company that makes wine in Lisboa, Algarve, Alentejo, Vinho Verde and the Douro, exporting 90% of its total production to more than 50 countries on 5 continents.  Casa Santos Lima is It is the largest single producer of Vinho Regional Lisboa (responsible for the production of more than 50% of all the certified wine in the Lisboa region) and DOC Alenquer.

Pedro da Fonseca is  managing partner of Vicente Leite Faria in the Douro Valley, drawing on fruit from estate vineyards as well as hundreds of small growers that together account for over 500 hectares of vineyards.  Born in Portugal but raised in Canada, Pedro studied at York University in Toronto before earning a Master’s degree from Harvard, and he's currently a PhD candidate at the London Metropolitan University. Pedro has a sincere love for wines of his mother country and their proliferation abroad.

We delve into topics such as the incentivization of small growers by large producers,  land conservation, and the preservation and re-propagation of rare, indigenous grapes. Although other countries such as the Republic of Georgia, Greece, and Italy can also boast many indigenous grapes, Portugal claims the highest density, some 250 varieties across an area six times smaller than France (551,500 km² vs. 92,120 km²).  But many are on the verge of extinction. We’ll find out what large wine companies are doing to help protect and preserve grape varieties that are at risk such as Azal, Codega do Larinho, Sousao, Tinta Grossa, and Jampal, among many others.

Climate change has also affected Portugal harder than many wine regions, pushing Portuguese growers to become global leaders in responding to the climate threat.  You'll find out what environmental initiatives these leading brands have undertaken, and how have these practices have had an impact on the industry at large.

Join John and Sara for an invigorating discussion on the role of leading brands safeguarding land, grapes and traditions in Portugal.

Sponsored by ViniPortugal. 

We’re kicking off 2023 and season three of the podcast with a look at one of the hottest wine trends down under: cool and fresh red wines from Australia. Once famous, and still well-known for robust, full-bodied, sunshine-filled jammy reds, today there’s serious momentum gathering, and already flowing, for lighter styles of red, fresher, less oaky, with lower alcohol and higher drinkability. So, what is driving this trend? What should we be looking for, and where?

The Thieves look to cool geography, viticultural methods and changing trends for answers with their guests  Mac Forbes and Sam Berketa. Mac Forbes established Mac Forbes Wines in 2004, with the aim of to better understanding and connecting with his native region. He credits the knowledge of the local Indigenous community who have lived and farmed this region for over 50,000 years as having helped him on his journey to become one of the most celebrated producers in the Yarra. Forbes specializes in pinot noir and chardonnay from vineyards across the Yarra Valley. Forbes also makes “village level” cuvées in the Burgundian fashion representing the various sub-regions of the Yarra, as well as the region-wide Yarra Valley offerings. The playground of exploration comes under the Experimental Batch range.

Sam Berketa is head winemaker at Alpha Box & Dice based in the McLaren Vale but has previously worked in the Yarra Valley, the Mornington Peninsula, Germany's Rheinhessen, in Barolo, Italy, as well as in Monterey in California applying his global knowledge to local production . Since its beginning in 2008, AB&D has become a champion of South Australia's alternative – particularly Mediterranean – varieties, exhibiting innovation at every step of the process by bending traditional winemaking norms.

Join John and Sara as they toast to the fresh, innovative reds produced in Australia's cooler reaches.

For extra credit, revisit Episode 9 of Season 2,  on the refreshing white wines of Australia, where we learn about the growing trend for lighter whites as well from guests Louisa Rose of Yalumba and Pewsey Vale (or rather Hill-Smith Family Vineyards as they’re known now), and Con-Greg Grigoriou, winemaker and partner at the Delinquente Wine Co. based in Riverland, as we have a similar discussion with them.

*This episode was produced in partnership with Wine Australia.

With a broad, international perspective, award-winning author, Decanter columnist and broadcaster, Andrew Jefford shares his thoughts on Ontario Chardonnay after his role as a keynote speaker at this year's i4C (International Cool Climate Celebration) in Niagara, Ontario. Join John & Sara as they listen in to Jefford's consequential speech which connects the dynamic aspects of wine to music. 

Jefford shares his understanding of how a winemaker can bring a sense of place most memorably into being, without the hindsight of a long tradition. In the case of Ontario, Jefford tells us why chardonnay is most apt in clearly revealing a sense of North: "the great brooding icy masses of water; the sticky chaos of moraine and till; the implacable grey of winter; the green frenzy of summer." If a region's uniqueness can be expressed through the instrument of a grape variety, the group discusses the importance of "winemakers who are listening for singularities of landscape and topographical aptitude." But is chardonnay, like the cherished piano, overused and taken for granted? All this and more in this unforgettable episode of The Wine Thieves. 

The Thieves are  back in Europe to explore the wealth of indigenous grape varieties and stunning stunning old vineyards found in Portugal.  Exactly how this sliver of the Iberian peninsula has been able to safeguard traditions, vineyards and distinctive regional character is what Sara and John are out to learn. 

They have a hunch that large-volume producers have a role to play, and invite three important guests to investigate: Martim Guedes, the Co-CEO of Aveleda (along with Antonio Guedes). Martim’s great-great grandfather Manoel Pedro Guedes founded Quinta da Aveleda in the Minho region 150 years ago, helping the wines of Vinho Verde achieve international recognition . The company has since expanded to the Douro, Bairrada and Algarve, and exports to more than 70 countries.

Luís Almada is an Executive Board Member of Casa Santos Lima, a family owned company that makes wine in Lisboa, Algarve, Alentejo, Vinho Verde and the Douro, exporting 90% of its total production to more than 50 countries on 5 continents.  Casa Santos Lima is It is the largest single producer of Vinho Regional Lisboa (responsible for the production of more than 50% of all the certified wine in the Lisboa region) and DOC Alenquer.

Pedro da Fonseca is  managing partner of Vicente Leite Faria in the Douro Valley, drawing on fruit from estate vineyards as well as hundreds of small growers that together account for over 500 hectares of vineyards.  Born in Portugal but raised in Canada, Pedro studied at York University in Toronto before earning a Master’s degree from Harvard, and he's currently a PhD candidate at the London Metropolitan University. Pedro has a sincere love for wines of his mother country and their proliferation abroad.

 We delve into topics such as the incentivization of small growers by large producers,  land conservation, and the preservation and re-propagation of rare, indigenous grapes. Although other countries such as the Republic of Georgia, Greece, and Italy can also boast many indigenous grapes, Portugal claims the highest density, some 250 varieties across an area six times smaller than France (551,500 km² vs. 92,120 km²).  But many are on the verge of extinction. We’ll find out what large wine companies are doing to help protect and preserve grape varieties that are at risk such as Azal, Codega do Larinho, Sousao, Tinta Grossa, and Jampal, among many others.

Climate change has also affected Portugal harder than many wine regions, pushing Portuguese growers to become global leaders in responding to the climate threat.  You'll find out what environmental initiatives these leading brands have undertaken, and how have these practices have had an impact on the industry at large.

Join John and Sara for an invigorating discussion on the role of leading brands safeguarding land, grapes and traditions in Portugal.

Sponsored by ViniPortugal.