Dreams of a Sailor

This is the story of a dream come true.

My dad was born on September, 1946 in Centerville, Iowa as the oldest of what would eventually be five siblings. After a difficult childhood bouncing between Iowa and Southern California he ran away from home the summer before his senior year. He would finish high school, and then spent four years in the Navy. Although he was in the Navy during the Vietnam War, he was stationed in the Atlantic and in his words the most action he saw during Vietnam was “throwing rocks at Cubans”.

After his four-year tour, dad attended college and completed an undergraduate degree in Industrial Technology at California Polytechnic State University. He met and married his first wife, had what would be his only child, and went on to live his life. With a divorce, a second marriage, a second divorce, a graduate degree from the University of San Francisco, and a series of middle- and upper-management positions with various companies.

Dad would eventually settle in San Diego, California, in 1997. He choose San Diego because he wanted to finally be able in indulge in what had been a life-long dream for him – sailing. After much preparation, he retired in 2000 at the age of 54 to start cruising.

Although the start of his cruising life was a bit … rocky (see “Remembering Lazarus”) he left San Diego for Mexico and spent a year cruising in the Gulf of California. But his real target was the Caribbean. He had thought to sail down the coast and through the Panama Canal, but eventually decided to just put his boat – Vantage Point, a 38-foot Catalina – on a truck to Florida.

And it was while staying in Florida, waiting for his then-current girl-friend to pack up and be ready to leave for the Caribbean with him, than he started writing.

This is his story. In his words.

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This is a poor attempt at trying to remember Lazarus. Lazarus was my first boat, a Hardin 44 Ketch. She was clearly to large for my first boat but she had great "pirate ship" lines and I could afford her. She had previously been named "Mahalus" or something like that and I wanted to resurrect her from a dock-side condo, which she had become under the previous ownership, back to a sailing vessel which she was designed to be. However, I did not know the fury of the sea and wind gods when you rename a boat and they lose track of her. Lazarus was purchased in March or maybe April of 2001, I can't remember which, and after receiving new rigging, extensive interior floor work, new scroll work on her exterior lines, a new radar, a chart plotter, and a GPS she was planning on spending three months in Ensenada, Mexico to avoid California state tax. I set sail toward Mexico in early July having previously driven to Ensenada and purchased a three-month slip. The crew included my girlfriend, a male "friend" of mine and his wife. Neither of the women had any previous sailing experience. I had never done an overnighter and I only knew of my friend's daysailing experience. But, I thought, it was a simple one-day trip and nothing could go wrong. Lazarus was a heavy, slow ketch. We left San Diego around 9am and made our way South under very light winds. It was dark before we got close to Ensenada and my friend wanted to do the navigating, as he was fascinated with all the electronics. Foolishly, I did not double check his work and did not have night-lights on my depth sounder or the other instruments that were already on the boat when I purchased it. Nearing midnight on Saturday, my friend looked at the Ensenada harbor on the chart, found something similar on the chart plotter and guided us directly into a slough. The first time I knew we were in shallow water was when the keel hit bottom with a solid thud. I tried to back out but we were on a full moon high tide and the waves kept bumping us toward shore. I called a "Mayday" to the US Coast Guard who, after ascertaining we were not in immediate danger, called my towing service, Boat US, for me. I was told Boat US towing would be arriving in about six hours from San Diego. The crew and I put on life-vests and spent the night listening to the boat bump up onto the beach. By daybreak Lazarus was at a severe angle and, upon coming up on deck, I found we were completely on the beach. At low tide you could walk off the boat. I contacted the Coast Guard, having actually kept in touch with them every hour to confirm our safety. Great bunch of folks, the US Coast Guard. They informed me that Boat US towing had declined to come down to Mexico and that Boat US towing had instructed I find a local towing service. Yes, I was to call channel 16 at 6am Sunday morning in Mexico to find a towing service. Unfortunately, I do not speak Spanish and did not get any reply. Surprise, surprise! Finally, I convinced my friend, his wife, and my girlfriend to leave the boat and walk into town. We could see the town across the bay. They did so very reluctantly as they did not want to leave me alone. My friend found a telephone and contacted my insurance carrier, who contacted SeaTow in San Diego. SeaTow dispatched a boat and a crew by car toward my location. They arrived on site late Sunday afternoon after Lazarus had spent an entire day on the beach. Fortunately at this point there was only some rudder damage to the boat. SeaTow brought lines from their boat to Lazarus and attempted to pull her off the beach but it was not to be. After trying for two days and numerous tide changes, the surf started to break into Lazarus' portholes and she began taking on water. I stayed with the boat the entire time as to leave it would be to give up salvage rights. The scariest night for me was the second night on board when Lazarus was partly filled with water, heeling at a severe angle on the beach. I had to untie the lines from Laz

I decided to go to Santiago today to get some spare fan belts for my engine. As I stated in a previous email, the belts I bought here in Luperon were very cheap and burnt out quickly. So I decided to get good quality "GATES" belts. On to Santiago. The problem is that Santiago is about 3 hours away by bus and I didn't know how to get there by bus. Fortunately I found that a friend was planning on going to Santiago today, so I decided to go with him. I went to his boat this morning at 8am to find he had changed his mind and wasn't going, but, don't worry, a friend of his was going. Hm. So I met his friend at the dinghy dock. The friend, Roger, turned out to be a Canadian who is married to an Argentinian and speaks fluent Spanish. He guided me to the "Gua-Guas", which are the local buses that run from Luperon to Imbert. The Gua-Gua is a van designed for 8 passengers but we were able to put 17 in at the high point of the ride to Imbert. You get to know you neighbor very well and hope like heck you remembered to put on your deodorant. And guys, it helps a lot if you figure out how to get a girl setting next to you. The trip from Luperon to Imbert is about half an hour and costs one dollar. At Imbert you catch an Express bus to Santiago. The bus is very nice, clean and they don't appear to put more people on than there are seats. This trip is over the mountains, takes about one and a half hours, and costs $2.50. Arriving in Santiago my new friend Roger had to take off to get what he was after and left me near a larger ferratereria (hardware store). So, in I go with my great command of Spanish and ask them if they have fan belts and specifically Gates XXXX. Nope, they no have. Well, now what am I going to do. I walked out of the store and started down the street but then it dawned on me I didn't have the least idea where I was going and if I didn't stay near the route I understood from the bus trip could become hopelessly lost. Well, I've been lost many times in my years of traveling and have discovered I'm not really lost, I'm just misplaced. I must be misplaced because I'm still here. If I ever got lost then I wouldn't be here would I? I try not to think about it, it gives me a headache. So anyway, back into the store and try to communicate where there might be another ferreteraria. I finally get the message there is another one a little ways away and approximately what direction it's in. Out the door and up the street. Now is the time God decided to remind me he is always there. I'm walking along and see an automotive parts store across the street. What the heck, might as well check it out. I go in and ask if they have fan belts. Yep, they have fan belts. Do they have Gates? Yep, they have Gates. Do they have Gates XXXX? Yep, here is one. Do they have any more? Don't push your luck, they only have that one. Thank you God. I bought it. Now, armed with a good fan belt I go on an adventure to see if I can find anymore. I finally found a couple similar types, same size and length but from a Japanese Co. that I faintly recognize so I buy them also. I'm ecstatic. A highly successful day. Now, I just have to get back to my boat. I start flagging down buses but no one is going toward Imbert. After starting to feel like I may have to stay overnight in Santiago, if I could find someplace other than a park bench to sleep on, I finally go into a furniture store - because there was a cute saleslady - and ask them how to catch the bus to Imbert. But, they don't speak English and my Spanish is failing. However, being good Latinas, they have someone take me across the street to catch a taxi to Caribe 2. Why I want to go to Caribe 2, I don't know but that's where they want me to go. So, I go. The taxi, already loaded with four other people, takes me to Caribe 2 (total cost twenty five cents) and I find it's not Caribe 2, it's Caribe Tours. Caribe Tours is a major bus company on the island and they go through Imbert. Thank you God. So, for $2.50, i

You all know how this goes. Everything is working fine but you decide to just tweak this one little thing and then ... I had a diesel mechanic come over to check my engine. It seemed to be vibrating more than it used to and also needed a 500 hour valve adjustment. So he checks the alignment, no problem. Checks the valves, a little tweak here and there but essentially no problem. But, oh by the way, did you notice your fan belt is wearing. Should probably replace it. So, ok, I go into town and buy a fan belt. Lovely no name Japanese version. I install it and within 10 minutes it blows up. Humm, could be defective so I went back and bought another belt. Installed it and within 10 minutes it blows up leaving pieces of fan belt all over the engine compartment and an overheating engine. Ok, so enough of that for the day. Close everything up and go to the marina for a fiesta. We are retired you know! Saturday morning I get up and decide to find the root cause - my old Quality management days weren't wasted after all. I cleaned the three pulleys, polishing them until they shined. I inspected the alternator, hm, the alternator seems a little loose on the bottom. I checked the bottom bolt and there is some play in it. I pulled the bottom bolt, put a couple washers on it, and … wait a minute … shouldn't there be a spacer here to fill up the gap between the two horns sticking off the alternator? Oh. I wonder if that rusty piece of tubing I found in the bilge yesterday could be used. I'll be darned, it's exactly the right size. When did I replace the alternator and not put the spacer tube back in place? No wonder the alternator wobbles. I put everything back together, put the old, slightly worn belt back on, and, viola, it's making electricity and not burning up belts. Am I good or what? The answer is "what!" So Monday I am off to Santiago for fan belts. I'll buy about a 1/2 dozen just in case. Interesting place where you have to make an all day trip just to get fan belts. There must be something else I can buy while I am there.

Saturday evening was a highlight in Luperon. The local marina had a pre-hurricane 60s party that I went to. The food was horrible, very dry, and overpriced. The one man band, a local cruiser, was off key. So, a group that I met heard that the Bahia Luperon (a restaurant in town) was televising the Lewis-Tyson heavyweight fight. Everyone hops in their dinghy and motors across the bay to Luperon. It's 9pm, so two drinks later (one in my hand) and off we go. I wish to report that I made it all the way across the bay holding a flashlight in one hand, the outboard controls in the other, and still didn't spill a drop of gin and tonic. Bahia Luperon is a new restaurant opened by a guy from Belgium and a woman from England. The food is outstanding, the drinks are cheap, and the restaurant is clean. What else could you ask for? The fight was suppose to start at 9pm but nothing came on, 10pm still nothing, 11pm and the owner announces that everyone should grab their chair and come down the street to sit outside a house that has the proper cable adapter. So, off everyone goes to sit in the middle of the street at 11pm watching a television set sitting on a beer box. The TV is hooked up to a cable extension hanging from a second story window. Occasionally traffic comes by but there is room to squeeze between the seats. I had a balcony view which means I was on the curb with the open sewer running down in front of my feet. The cable would freeze frame every once in a while so we actually saw about 1/2 of the fight live. But, what an experience. Only in Luperon.

Well, I have learned some interesting stuff over the last few days. For instance, did you know that 30% of the population has AIDS and another 30% has a antibiotic resistant version of syphilis? Wow, that's enough to keep "Willie" in the barn, if you know what I mean!!! On the positive side, food here is very cheap. A can of corn costs 10 cents, and fresh bakery cookies are 10 cents each. A cup of delicious coffee in a nice restaurant is 25 cents. A large beer, enough for three glasses, is $1.00. Fresh live lobster is less than $10 delivered cooked and on your plate with rice and beans. Even imported stuff costs the same or less than in the U.S. Ok, so I am now in a Spanish class two times a week. There are two other people in the class, a French Canadian couple. Very nice people. Went for a ride through the countryside today. Wow, is it ever beautiful. Fresh green farm land with coconut palms. Terrific mountains and lovely valleys. The only down side is the people throw trash everywhere. It is very similar to Mexico, and parts of Southern California to be truthful. At least regarding the trash problem.

I just got back from a three day trip around the DR with a French Canadian "family." We went East to the end of the island, a place called Semana. It is billed as a lovely city and the waterfront was ok but deserted. There is a huge bay coming into Semana but only a couple boats. I have heard it is not very safe with a lot of dinghy's being stolen. I can't afford to have that happen again. We went on to Los Torreanos, which is basically a Swiss-French colony on the island. No one speaks English. The bay there is picture postcard perfect and the prices are wonderful. I paid $20/night for a bungalow with a double bed, bath, shower, and overhead fan. It was lovely. The water is crystal clear, the waves lap against the shore after having washed across a reef that protects the bay, the French women all go topless (Yes, ladies I do appreciate looking at God's artwork, Thank you very much. As I once heard, you can enjoy an art gallery without touching the paintings.) Sunday morning shortly after sunrise I had a lovely beach walk with a gorgeous brunette, big eyes, lovely smile. There were just the two of us on the whole beach. Perhaps I shouldn't tell you she is only 8 years old and has adopted me as Grandfather. Another interesting thing I have seen are the washing machines. The washing machines here are a little smaller than in the US. I have seen them strapped on the back of a motorcycle being carried home. The rider has one hand on the handlebars and one hand trying to hold up the washing machine. Several times I have seen them outside peoples homes. The washing machine is there, the water is in the machine but there is no electricity to the house. So, they are basically using the machine as a large tub. But, I am sure that they have high hopes that someday electricity will come to their village. Parts of the island have new concrete electrical posts so there is an overall plan.

I just wanted you to know that I actually work sometimes. The day before yesterday I cut a 20ft. line, attached it to an old float and then attached it to a block of cement that was 15ft. under the water. Viola: a new mooring buoy. Yesterday I got very busy and did the same thing with four more floats. The total work time was at least three hours over the two days. Whew, I am exhausted. Today I helped the landlord replace a brake line on an old truck. That took all of about an hour. But don't worry; I rested the remainder of the day. Besides, there was a rainstorm that came through and I used the fresh water to mop the floor inside the boat.

Here are a couple interesting, well at least I think interesting, notes on Luperon. I walked into town Saturday. Took the long route around the bay, over the hill, and through the dale. Mostly countryside with chickens, horses, and cattle. I finally made it into the village and was sitting in the plaza enjoying an ice tea when … ok, you are not going to believe this but it's true, there was a cattle drive down through the main street of town. Yep, two local cowboys on island ponies (they are smaller than our horses) were driving about 30 cows down the main street. It's stopped all the traffic, not that there was that much to begin with, but stopped everything as the cattle, horns and all, went through town. I thought I was watching a western movie. Amazing. Here is the second interesting note. The Dominican Republic has a local reputation for having "friendly" (and girls you know what I mean) girls. So, I am having breakfast at the marina this morning and I heard they have the Spanish tradition here of the single girls walking in a circle around the plaza on Sunday evening. The single guys used to walk one way and the girls the other way, but the guys got lazy and so just sit and watch what is going on. It must be the American influence (just kidding.) I am talking to this one cruiser, Robert, who came down here specifically to find a Dominican girlfriend. Robert looks around 50 or so but when I asked him, he said he was 70. Ah yes, the cruising life is good for your stress level. Anyway, Robert has had a couple girl friends and one he wanted to actually marry but the lady's Mother didn't see Robert as a suitable husband. Why you ask? Glad you asked that. Remember Robert is 70. The single girls he is dating are still in their teens and the "love of his life" was 14. Even I think that is a might young!! Gad, what do you talk about … things like "totally" and "awesome" and "radical"? Nope, that is to out of date. Oh well, it didn't matter because Robert can't speak Spanish and the girl couldn't speak English. So, I am going in tonight to check this out. I will report later. Unless I end up married. But, you don't have to worry about my getting married. I was told you can buy the local girls anything but shoes. If you buy shoes, it's a sign of engagement. NO SHOES! Hm. Maybe I should find my son a good Dominican while I am out looking.

Luperon was named after General Luperon, who was one of the DR's greatest heroes. In 1879, after being invaded by Haiti and occupied for several years, the country was reorganized, under Luperon's leadership,(read that dictatorship) and set on the road to economic recovery. Well, ok so it's a slow path but at least they are better off than Haiti. Puerto Plata used to be the official port of entry on the North coast but it is also a commercial port. During a storm, several freighters broke loose in the Puerto Plata harbor and used cruiser sailboats as bowling pins. The DR government didn't think that was such a good idea so they opened Luperon, actually Bahia Blanco, as a port of entry and the cruisers all moved here. This is a major transit spot for boats moving North and South but also has a small community of cruisers who stay here year around. So far, I have met four couples who came here up to three years ago with the intention of only staying a couple weeks and they are still here. It is an excellent hurricane hole with the last hurricane reported to be in the 1930s. Luperon is not a major city. I walked from one end to the other today and it took me about 20 minutes from the bay until I was on a two lane road with nothing but cows and banana trees. Far and away the major transportation devices are motorcycles and motor scooters. There does not seem to be any age requirement as I saw a boy today on a motor scooter who could not have been over 10. There are no stoplights nor indeed any stop signs in the town. I was sitting in the plaza, city center park, near lunch time and there was a fellow riding through on a horse. The main town, about six streets wide and twenty blocks long is paved (sort of) but after that it turns to dirt. Chickens are seen everywhere and I can smell pigs but haven't found them yet. Not that I am in that great a hurry to make the discovery. Most important though is that I found a good ice cream parlor. Good ice cream (a single scoop) in La Paz, Mexico used to cost about 20 pesos (the exchange rate was about 9 pesos to the $1.) Here the ice cream costs 10 pesos and the exchange rate is about 18 pesos to the $1. I like it here! There is also a local restaurant much frequented by the local population. I heard this from a cruiser I was talking to in the plaza. It specializes in chicken and pork. A very large plate of rice, a plate of red beans and 1/2 chicken cost 35 pesos (about $1.50) He said he had eaten so much chicken over the last month he was growing feathers. I joined the Bahia Luperon Commodore club today. It is a new restaurant opened by some cruisers who have decided to stay here. They promise to never serve beans and rice in the restaurant. It is rapidly becoming a cruiser hangout and has painted silhouettes of different boat styles on the walls. For 100 pesos (about $5.00), your boat can be immortalized by having it's name associated with one of the silhouettes. Vantage Point will appear proudly above the new bar. It will now live forever, or at least until the place gets repainted. I joined a Spanish speaking class at the George Washington university here in Luperon. The GW university is a two room shack with a green chalkboard (remember those?) There are two other people in the class (a couple from Quebec) and we will study conversational Spanish together on Tuesday and Thursdays from 10am to noon. There is one instructor. The cost is 70 pesos (about $3.50 for a two hour class.) Mucho gusto. I like this place. It reminds me of the small farm towns in Iowa but set in a tropical environment. The smells are the same, there are motorcycles instead of trucks, the people are a little darker, banana trees instead of elm, but basically the same.