China Lifestyle Journeys

Episode18: Preserved fruits


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Welcome to this edition of China Lifestyle Journeys, the series that brings you chats, discussions and insights on all aspects of Chinese living. We will cover festivals, food, traditions, customs and much, much more. I’m your host Jocelyn … and I’m Mat, just an English guy with lots of questions.

So, Mat, what’s your big question today?

(Mat)

Hello and welcome back to another episode. Today we’re talking about a sweet treat that’s popular in China – preserved fruits. Now, preserved fruits are fruits that have been dried and preserved in sugar or syrup. So let’s start. Jocelyn, tell me something about preserved fruit.

(Jocelyn)

Of course. In China, preserved fruits have a long history, going back to the Tang Dynasty. The traditional method of making preserved fruits involves soaking fresh fruits in a sugar or honey solution and then drying them in the sun. And this process not only preserves the fruits but also enhances their natural sweetness and flavour.

(Mat)

Now I think I may have had something similar to this. I remember I was in a park in Wuhan and I saw an old man with a bicycle. And on the back of his bicycle there was a glass box and in this glass box there were many of these sticks, and on the sticks there were all of these like different coloured, they looked like little balls of things and I remember I saw one, there were these red balls covered in like clear sugar. I’m sure you know what I mean.  

(Jocelyn)

Ah yeah. I think you’re talking about Bingtanghulu(冰糖葫芦), which is a traditional Chinese snack, usually made with hawthorn berries that are coated in a hard, clear sugar syrup. And the berries are typically skewered on a stick and then dipped into the syrup to create a crunchy, sweet outer layer. And Bingtanghulu is often enjoyed during the winter months and is popular in northern part of China. And sometimes you can find in shops in packaged form, or other versions including fruits such as strawberries or kiwis. But ask any Chinese person and they will tell you that the street version is better. Did you try it?

(Mat)

Yes, I did. It was quite an experience, I remember those berries, the hawthorn berries, they were like really sour but that sugar coating made them taste sweet and crunchy. I had never tasted anything quite like that before. It’s like that really unique texture and flavour. The way the crunchy outer layer of the sugar, that sugar coating breaks when you bite it, and then you have that juicy, sour flesh inside, that hawthorn berry. I would say that of all the foods and snacks I’ve tried in China, this was probably the most unique. There’s nothing like that in England.

(Jocelyn)

Really? So in England don’t you have any preserved fruits?

(Mat)

Well in England, we also have a variety of preserved fruits, including like dried apricots, figs, raisins. And we often use them in baking, especially for cakes and puddings. So we see them more as an ingredient for cooking. We seldom eat them as foods on their own.

(Jocelyn) 

That’s interesting. It’s quite different in China, where we see preserved fruits as a snack on their own, and they come in a wide range of flavours and textures. And some preserved fruits are soft and chewy, while others are hard and crunchy. There are so many fruits that are used for preserving, including plums, dates, peaches, and so on.

(Mat)

Well in England, as I said before, we tend to think of preserved fruits as something to be used in cooking, in very small amounts, rather than like as a standalone snack. For example, we might use preserved lemons in a chicken dish, or we might add dried cranberries in bread, or even to a salad. So to eat preserved fruits on their own seems a bit weird to us.

(Jocelyn)

Oh, so I’m guessing you don’t give preserved fruits as gifts in England. You know, in China, preserved fruits are often given as gifts, particularly during the Chinese New Year. It is a way of sharing good luck and prosperity with friends and family. And because preserved fruits have a long shelf life, they can be enjoyed for weeks and even months after they’re made.

(Mat)

No. In England, we don’t have a tradition of giving preserved fruits as gifts, if you gave me a gift of preserved fruit, I wouldn’t really know what to do with it. I’d probably try to bake a cake with it.

(Jocelyn)

Oh really. What kind of cake then?

(Mat)

Well, in England, one very popular cake that we make with lots of preserved fruit is the traditional Christmas cake. It's like a rich and dense fruit cake typically made with ingredients like dried raisins, currants, candied fruit peel. We get all the fruit and we soak in alcohol - brandy or sherry for several days to infuse them with that alcohol and then really enhance their flavour. And then we mix them with like flour, butter, eggs, and spices like cinnamon, nutmeg. And then it’s baked slowly for several hours. It's a really indulgent cake, really strong flavours. And it’s great served with fresh cream or vanilla ice cream.

(Jocelyn)

OK I know what to buy for you as a gift. Some different preserved fruits. And then you bake a Christmas cake and let me try it.

(Mat)

OK. That sounds like a deal.

Well, that’s it for today. We hope you enjoyed this episode, thanks for listening. We hope to see you again next time. Until then, goodbye. Stay wise.

果脯,又称蜜饯,采用果蔬作为原料,为了基本保持果品形状,用糖或蜂蜜腌制后加工制成的食品。果脯属于糖制品。糖制品是以果品为原料,用高浓度的糖保藏起来的制品,如苹果脯、杏脯、桃脯、梨脯、蜜枣以及糖制姜片、藕片等。果脯是我国传统名特食品中流传广泛,历史悠久的一个产品。由于果脯的质地柔软、光亮晶透、耐贮易藏味佳形美,因而不仅闻名国内,而且在世界上也享有盛誉。我国制作果脯蜜饯已有1000多年的历史,在我国的古籍中,关于用蜂蜜腌制果实的记载很多。这些记载皆是把鲜果放在峰蜜中熬煮浓缩,去除大量水分,用来长期保存水果,所以叫做“蜜煎”,以后逐步演变成“蜜饯”。后来逐渐用砂糖代替蜂蜜,成为今天的果脯蜜饯。因为果脯蜜饯加工的快速发展,果蔬的附加价值也更完整地体现出来。

1915年,在美国旧金山举办的巴拿马万国博览会上,“北京风味的果脯”以其精湛的技艺和独特口感,一举赢得了万国博览会金质奖。不过在英国,果脯类的食品通常不会单独食用,或者当作精美的礼品来送人,而是作为其他肉类或者糕点的调味品和配料,来给主食增加风味。不过,由于干果果脯具有天然、健康、美味等特点,越来越多的国外消费者也开始喜欢它们。这也使得干果果脯成为了海外市场上的一种热门产品。


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China Lifestyle JourneysBy 汪珺Jocelyn