Finding Elevation: Conversations Beyond the Mountain

Rebecca Dent, a dietitian specializing in sports nutrition, shares her journey into working with endurance sports and mountain athletes. She emphasizes the importance of planning and practicing a nutrition strategy for optimal performance. Some common mistakes athletes make include not planning and practicing their nutrition and hydration strategy, forgetting to eat and drink during activity, and starting to eat and drink too late. Dent recommends creating a nutrition strategy per hour of moving time and focusing on carbohydrates as the primary fuel source. She also discusses the importance of recovery nutrition and how to recover from bonking. In this conversation, Rebecca Dent discusses hydration and nutrition strategies for endurance athletes. She emphasizes the importance of staying hydrated during training and provides tips for maintaining optimal hydration levels. Rebecca also addresses the topic of intermittent fasting and explains why it is not recommended for athletes. She highlights the natural increase in fat oxidation that occurs through endurance training and advises against the need for fasting training. Overall, Rebecca provides valuable insights into the role of hydration and nutrition in optimizing performance for endurance athletes.

Takeaways

• Plan and practice a nutrition strategy for optimal performance in endurance sports and mountain activities.
• Common mistakes include not planning and practicing nutrition, forgetting to eat and drink, and starting to eat and drink too late.
• Focus on carbohydrates as the primary fuel source during activity.
• Recovery nutrition is important for replenishing energy and supporting muscle repair.
• If you experience bonking, consume fast-acting carbohydrates and back it up with more substantial food. Staying hydrated during training is crucial for optimal performance and energy levels.
• Carrying a sports drink and regularly sipping on it can help maintain energy levels and offset dehydration.
• Intermittent fasting is not recommended for endurance athletes as it can lead to negative health and performance consequences.
• Endurance training naturally increases fat oxidation rates, eliminating the need for fasting training.
• Focus on fueling your training and giving your body time to adapt and improve.

Engagement Link

https://www.rebeccadent.co.uk

https://www.instagram.com/high_performance_dietitian/

Sweat Test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kHZPWGHHh20

This episode of the Finding Elevation podcast focuses on the letdown effect that athletes often experience after achieving a peak moment, such as summiting a mountain. The letdown effect is characterized by a decline in physical and mental well-being, including symptoms like apathy and fatigue. The lack of routine and the loss of the close-knit team dynamic contribute to this feeling of letdown. The host provides several tools to help athletes work through the letdown effect, including taking a break, focusing on good nutrition and sleep, journaling, staying connected with the climbing community, practicing mindfulness and meditation, and planning the next adventure.

Takeaways

• The letdown effect is a common experience for athletes after achieving a peak moment.
• Taking a break and giving yourself permission to rest is important for recovery.
• Good nutrition and sleep are essential for physical and mental well-being.
• Journaling and staying connected with the climbing community can help with emotional and mental recovery.
• Practicing mindfulness and meditation can support mental fitness.
• Planning the next adventure can provide motivation and help overcome the letdown.

Mount Rainier is the highest peak in Washington State and a popular mountain for climbers. The history of Mount Rainier includes eruptions in the late 1800s, and it was the ancestral homeland for several Native American tribes. The first successful summit of Rainier happened in 1870, and the first female ascent was just 20 years later. There are 40 routes on Mount Rainier, with the Disappointment Cleaver and Emmons routes being the most popular. Climbing Rainier requires physical and mental preparation, as well as adherence to Leave No Trace principles.

Takeaways

• Mount Rainier is the highest peak in Washington State and a popular mountain for climbers.
• The history of Mount Rainier includes eruptions in the late 1800s, and it was the ancestral homeland for several Native American tribes.
• The first successful summit of Rainier happened in 1870, and the first female ascent was just 20 years later.
• There are 40 routes on Mount Rainier, with the Disappointment Cleaver and Emmons routes being the most popular.
• Climbing Rainier requires physical and mental preparation, as well as adherence to Leave No Trace principles.

Engagement Links

Mt. Rainier History

Rainier climbing book

Fay Fuller

Rainier Climbing Ranger Blog

Weather

Guide company links https://www.alpineascents.com

https://www.mountainguides.com

https://mountainmadness.com

https://www.rmiguides.com

LNT principles

In this episode, Courtney Heitter discusses her journey as a mountaineer and the genesis of her podcast, 'You're Not Qualified.' She shares her experience of starting mountaineering without a background in athletics and how she overcame the belief that she wasn't qualified for certain pursuits. Courtney emphasizes the importance of listening to your own voice and not letting others define your capabilities. She also talks about reframing failure as a learning opportunity and the parallel trajectory between her climbing journey and her career. In this conversation, Courtney and Lisa discuss the importance of embracing discomfort and failure as part of the journey towards achieving dreams. They share personal experiences of facing challenges and overcoming self-doubt in mountaineering expeditions. Courtney emphasizes the value of surrounding oneself with supportive and honest individuals who believe in your abilities. They also discuss the significance of setting goals and pushing oneself outside of the comfort zone. Courtney shares her upcoming goals, including climbing Denali and other challenging peaks.

Takeaways

• Don't let the belief that you're not qualified hold you back from pursuing your passions.
• Listen to your own voice and prioritize your own goals and aspirations over what others say.
• Reframe failure as a learning opportunity and a stepping stone towards success.
• The journey and the process are just as important as reaching the summit. Embrace discomfort and failure as part of the journey towards achieving dreams.
• Surround yourself with supportive and honest individuals who believe in your abilities.
• Set goals and push yourself outside of your comfort zone.
• Learn from challenges and grow as a person.
• It's never too late to start pursuing your passions and dreams.

Engagement Link

https://www.instagram.com/ynqpod/

You're Not Qualified - A Podcast

In this episode of Finding Elevation, host Lisa Thompson interviews Tom Cuddy, an exercise physiologist, to discuss exercise physiology and the testing he does to understand an athlete's physiology. He explains the different energy systems in the body and how they produce ATP, the role of muscle fibers in different types of athletes, and the importance of lactate in energy production. Tom also discusses the use of physiological testing to design training programs and optimize performance. In this conversation, Tom Cuddy discusses the importance of understanding training design and tailoring it to individual goals and needs. He emphasizes the significance of knowing the energy systems and fuel sources required for specific activities, such as mountaineering. Tom also highlights the misconception that high-intensity training is necessary for progress and explains the importance of low-intensity training for endurance goals. He delves into the concept of running economy and introduces the idea of vertical running economy, which measures the energy expenditure of running uphill. Tom shares his research findings on the determinants of vertical running economy and the physiological metrics that contribute to efficient uphill running. He also discusses the accessibility of metabolic testing and his efforts to make it more available to athletes.

Takeaways

• There are different energy systems in the body that produce ATP to fuel muscle contraction during exercise.
• Muscle fibers play a role in an athlete's performance, with slow twitch fibers being used during low-intensity activities and fast twitch fibers being used during high-intensity activities.
• Lactate is an important fuel source that can be recycled and used by different muscle fibers.
• Physiological testing, such as VO2 max and lactate threshold testing, can provide valuable information for designing training programs and optimizing performance.
• Training can influence an athlete's physiology and the percentage of different muscle fibers in their body. Understanding the specific goals and needs of an individual is crucial for designing effective training programs.
• Tailoring training to maximize the relevant energy systems and fuel sources is essential for optimal performance.
• Contrary to popular belief, low-intensity training plays a significant role in achieving endurance goals.
• Running economy, including vertical running economy, is an important metric for measuring energy expenditure during uphill running.
• Physiological metrics such as VO2 max, VO2 at lactate threshold, and lactate levels can help predict and improve running economy.
• Efforts are being made to make metabolic testing more accessible to athletes and provide actionable insights for training.

Engagement Link

https://www.calibratedcoaching.com/

In this episode of Finding Elevation, host Lisa Thompson discusses the importance of mental strength in mountaineering and the role it plays as climbers reach higher altitudes. The conversation then focuses on the question of balancing resilience with pushing too far, highlighting the need for discernment in making decisions. Lisa explores the development of discernment through respect, education, skill, communication, and experience. The challenges of assessing and managing risk, including confirmation bias, are also discussed. The episode concludes with a discussion on mitigating risk and setting personal limits to ensure a safe and enjoyable mountaineering experience. Takeaways

• Mental strength is crucial in mountaineering, especially as climbers reach higher altitudes where physical performance is limited.
• Balancing resilience with pushing too far requires discernment, which can be developed through respect, education, skill, communication, and experience.
• Assessing and managing risk is challenging, and climbers must be aware of confirmation bias and the difficulty of making good decisions in intense situations.
• Mitigating risk involves evaluating the likelihood and consequences of potential dangers and setting personal limits to ensure safety.

In this episode of Finding Elevation, host Lisa Thompson interviews her friend Dr. Tracee Metcalfe, an expedition doctor, and high altitude mountaineer. They discuss Dr. Metcalfe's journey into mountaineering, common medical issues in the mountains, using medications like Diamox while climbing, and managing altitude sickness. Dr. Metcalfe also shares details on her upcoming project to climb the final 5 of the world's 14 8,000-meter peaks to raise money for Ascend Athletics, an organization that teaches mountaineering skills to women in Pakistan and Afghanistan.

Main Discussion Points:

• How Dr. Metcalfe first got into climbing after moving to Colorado for college despite growing up in southern California
• Treating acute mountain sickness, sunburns, frostbite, blisters and other issues as an expedition doctor on mountains like Denali and Everest
• Using medications like Diamox for better sleep and oxygen saturation at altitude
• Recognizing signs of pulmonary edema and cerebral edema
• Dr. Metcalfe's upcoming climbs of Shishapangma, Lhotse, the Gasherbrums, and Broad Peak to complete all 14 eight-thousanders
• Fundraising through her climbs for Ascend Athletics, an organization that teaches women in Pakistan and Afghanistan leadership and mountaineering skills.

Links:

https://traceelmetcalfe.com/

Tracee's fundraising site to teach Pakistani girls mountain skills: https://www.pledge.to/empowering-girls-to-climb-to-new-heights--

Colorado Mountain Club

Helpful Gear:

AirTrim mask

LeukoTape

Alpine Armor Tape

Hydrocolloidal Patches

Blister Seals

In this episode of the Finding Elevation podcast, host Lisa Thompson speaks with Angie Marie about the intersection of adventure and menstrual cycles. They discuss Angie's work to help women better understand and connect with their cycles and bodies in the outdoors. Listeners can expect to learn practical tips for managing periods while backpacking or mountaineering, as well as gain inspiration around how embracing femininity can enrich outdoor experiences.

Guest Bio

Angie Marie is an author, speaker, and "period nerd" focused on helping people live and adventure in better sync with their bodies. She has over a decade of experience in the outdoor industry and is passionate about increasing access to nature for girls and women.

Key Discussion Points

• Exploring the Intersection of Periods and Outdoor Adventure with Angie Marie (00:00:00)

• Discussion on Menstrual Cycles and the Taboo Surrounding It (00:01:19)

• Ignoring the Menstrual Cycle and Its Impact on Women's Health (00:03:00)

• Understanding the Connection Between Nature and Women's Health (00:06:17)

• Managing Periods in the Backcountry: Tips and Tricks (00:09:41)

• Exploring the Connection Between Menstrual Cycles and Nature (00:13:43)

• Living in Tune with Nature's Cycles (00:18:37)

• Embracing Cyclical Living: How to Harness the Power of Your Menstrual Cycle (00:25:52)

• Empowering Girls to Explore the Outdoors: A Conversation on Adventure and Menstrual Cycles (00:34:27)

• Empowering Women in the Outdoors Through Period Education and Femininity (00:45:51)

Community and Engagement Links

Menstrual Care in the Backcountry blog post: https://www.itsangiemarie.com/blog/backcountry-periods Outdoor Period Product Pros and Cons: https://www.itsangiemarie.com/blog/periodproducts Why Working Out is Harder Before Your Period (and What to Do About It): https://www.itsangiemarie.com/blog/lutealphase

Beginner's Guide to Cycle Syncing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dBe0D-vrsnWWD7ecr2nzSVQDUuNpY5zo/view?usp=sharing

Read Your Body period tracker

https://readyourbody.com

Angie's Book: The Cycle Syncing Handbook

https://www.amazon.com/Cycle-Syncing-Handbook-Identify-Menstrual/dp/1646045602/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1LGSOK3WIZOEY&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.b75LydGeeHeCUtfv-QOCdoxd8Y6LhqrIEQSVZNKqSghI7AL4gNkLbhwJOSJuQzytZz3C0bOEIb-r7nND1ATPJW_Fuzun8xZ9WKZQFKULx3OPfvsiEopRoc0aWyO8wLpljh87k8fogHbQyQYStCg97TGV5YzKreJ-AQpuDUn2GomHkN5A1hwhuuZUwBKkAR3yptQLw0pGBSj-zrHaDwO8Rk0hPjR8lNuOElX_PPsi_L4.VA8y7POIDlwH-25YpAkRm6N23QT5NJHiauAvSR1ZYmE&dib_tag=se&keywords=angie+marie+book&qid=1709319272&sprefix=angie+marie+book%2Caps%2C214&sr=8-2 For The Love Of episode with Lisa: fortheloveofpod.com/episodes/lisathompson

In this episode, host Lisa Thompson provides a wealth of tips and advice for preparing to climb Mount Everest. She shares insights on physical training, mental preparation, gear selection, nutrition, teammates, and more based on her own experience climbing the mountain as well as coaching other climbers.

Key Discussion Points

• Overview of Everest history, including the first confirmed and controversial first summits (00:02:12)
• Primary routes—north/Tibet side vs south/Nepal side - and their pros and cons (00:06:45)
• Physical training tips: building cardio capacity, mountain-specific strength, and endurance (00:13:31)
• Importance of mental toughness above 23,000 ft (00:20:30)
• Practical preparation tips: inform loved ones, watch route videos, set nutrition plan, and assemble gear early (00:21:50)
• Strategies during climb - boundaries, positive self-talk, anticipating worries (00:25:38)
• Motivational tools - voice memos from friends, letter to self (00:45:50)

Key Quotes

"I just think that there is so much that you learn when you're on a Himalayan expedition about coping and being away from home and living in an inhospitable environment and, you know, working with an environment and, you know, working with a diverse team of people you may not know." (00:11:35)

"It's up to each of us to be a little more considerate and a little more adaptable and a little more accommodating." (00:36:38) on team dynamics

"I want if I'm coaching you, I want everything that you're carrying to be functional so that it's gonna help you get up and down the mountain and putting on extra fat before you go isn't going to do that." (00:44:38) on gaining weight before the climb

Community and Engagement Links

The Third Pole by Mark Synnott

Lisa's Everest blog

The Altitude Center

In this episode of the Finding Elevation podcast, host Lisa Thompson discusses the impact of mindfulness and mindset on performance for mountain athletes. She shares how practices like meditation, intention-setting, visualization, and breathwork can transform both climbing ability and overall wellbeing.

Key Discussion Points

• The connection between mindset and performance, initially noticed when a seemingly capable climber turned around early on Mt. Rainier due to mental barriers (00:01:00)
• Research showing meditation physically changes the brain to improve focus and decrease reactivity/fear (00:07:00)
• Tips for building a meditation practice, starting with just 5 minutes a day (00:21:41)
• Using mantras and intention-setting to override negative self-talk and reframe challenges (00:29:15)
• Leveraging visualization to pre-experience difficult sections of a climbing route (00:35:59)
• Not ignoring fear but categorizing it and reframing it before moving forward (00:33:24)

Community and Engagement Links

Studies:

• NIH study
• Purdue study
• Your brain doesn't know the difference between what you think and experience

Meditation Apps:

• Calm
• Headspace
• Insight timer

Book:

The Mindful Athlete by George Mumford