Once called the "soup of drunkards," French onion soup was born in the shadow of Les Halles — Paris's legendary night market — where butchers and aristocrats ate elbow to elbow at 3 AM. The original version? No booze at all.

This week, we're changing that. We commit to two versions of the recipe — one built on bourbon and dry French vermouth, the other on Cognac and Amontillado sherry. Along the way, we debate Jacques Pépin's 8-minute caramelization, break down why the Maillard reaction can't start until onions lose their 89% water content, and argue over whether Paul Bocuse — the chef of the century — was right to call the Les Halles version an "imitation."

The cocktail: The Gratinée — an Adonis riff with Amontillado sherry, Dolin Rouge, a barspoon of XO Cognac, and fresh thyme.

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Thanks to all of this week’s partners:

Asil Raicilla de la Sierra: https://pkgdgroup.com/#our_brands/

Underberg: https://underbergamerica.com/