Lobster used to be fertilizer. Coastal tribes buried it in the fields, colonists let it wash up in piles two feet deep, and prisoners complained they were being fed bugs. In 1634, William Wood wrote that a heap of lobster shells by your door marked you as too poor to eat anything else.
This week we follow that same animal to a fifty-dollar tray of cold lobster salad on a buttered, griddled bun, and figure out how the cockroach of the sea got its glow-up. We take opposite corners on the only debate that matters, Maine (cold, a little mayo, celery) against Connecticut (warm, drawn butter, nothing else), get into why the sweetest meat isn't the tail, how to pull it off the heat the second before it turns to rubber, and why a new-shell lobster seasons itself from the inside.
There's no booze in the dish, so this one is about what you drink beside it. Sother's cocktail is the Maine Dispatch, an agricole rum Daiquiri with celery juice and tarragon.
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