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Master Gardener Ed Buyarski explains that a mulch or a non-living ground cover can inhibit weed growth, conserve moisture and provide a more aesthetically-pleasing surface than just bare soil between your trees and shrubs.
Buyarski recommends a first layer of a heavy-duty, woven, porous landscaping fabric. That can be topped with bark, woods chips or gravel. He also uses a lot of cardboard as the first layer, which adds nutrients when it slowly breaks down into the soil after a year or two.
Do you have a garden question for Ed? Fill out the form below, and he’ll answer your question in an upcoming segment.
Listen to past episodes and subscribe to the podcast on the “Gardentalk” page, so you’ll never have to worry about missing Thursday’s live radio broadcasts.
Certified seed potatoes on sale at a Juneau grocery store in April 2019. (Photo by Matt Miller/KTOO)
Always start from seed. That’s the most important piece of advice that Master Gardener Ed Buyarski has for gardeners who want to grow potatoes this season.
Buyarski explained in the latest edition of Gardentalk on KTOO that certified seed potatoes are usually free of diseases. They also lack the chemical sprout inhibitor that is usually applied before eating potatoes are shipped to grocery stores.
There is a small exception to that rule, though: Buyarski said if gardeners have any potatoes left over from their own crop that they started from seed last year, then those can be used as seed this season as well.
Buyarski said seed potatoes can be planted once sprouts are about a half-inch long. If the seeds are bigger than a golf ball, then they can be cut up at planting so they have one or two eyes apiece.
After lining your planting area with compost, plant each seed potato about an inch or two deep with eyes pointing up.
Seed potatoes with longer sprouts can be planted in a shallow trench with the sprout laid flat just below surface.
Cover the garden bed with clear plastic to help the soil and seeds warm up over the next few weeks.
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