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Hello, again. This is Trey.
Before I begin, please note: In the show notes, I include links to
several informative videos, and to specific products which might
be used for a project like this. I do not endorse, nor
support any of the products or influencers linked. I do not
profit from anything on or associated with any of the
links. They are provided merely for additional information or
I live in the eastern part of the state of Tennessee in the
southeast United States. Our summers are fairly hot and humid, but
our winters are generally mild. Last winter, we experienced an ice
storm, with temperatures dropping into the single digits
(Fahrenheit) or below -12 degrees Celsius. This was not a
problem until tree limbs heavy with ice began to break off and
fall, on occasion taking power lines with them. As a direct
result, we lost power at my home. The icy road conditions
made it difficult for service vehicles to reach impacted areas,
and also made it impossible for us to leave our home.
My house is heated by a natural gas forced air
furnace. However, the fan which blows hot air throughout the
house, and the electronics which control everything from telling
the furnace to turn on to igniting the gas, all require
electricity. For anyone unfamiliar with how a forced air furnace
works, I am including a link to a helpful YouTube video by The DIY
HVAC Guy
Link
So, with the loss of electrical power, came a loss of heat. We
experienced a full day of being huddled under blankets and
drinking warm beverages. These I could heat up on my gas
stove, when I used a match or lighter to ignite the
burner. Thankfully, the next day our power was restored, and
our home warmed up again.
But that got me thinking, and searching for solutions. I
needed to provide an alternative electrical power option for my
gas furnace so that it would continue to work when the electricity
was interrupted. I found a really interesting video, also by
The DIY HVAC Guy (
Link
), explaining an option for retrofitting the electrical
connections to the furnace, but I never got around to doing
That changed, a couple months ago, when I found a real deal on a
brand new portable solar generator. It is effectively a large
lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) battery, an inverter, and a
charging system, all bundled together in an easy to carry
case. It provides over 1,000 watt hours of power. It can
be charged using portable solar panels (which I purchased at the
same time), or supported using external power sources from 12v to
The retrofit of the of the electrical feed line into my furnace
was easily accomplished by doing something very similar to what
was done in the video linked above. I turned off the circuit
breaker for the furnace in the house's main electrical panel, and
then located the switch box mounted on the side of my
furnace. I removed the switch plate cover and tested the
wires inside using a non-contact voltage tester, which would light
up and scream at me if there was still any power to any of the
wires. No screaming. No power. Good.
Next, I removed the switch from the box, disconnected the
black power source "hot" wire from the switch. This would
carry 120v AC directly to the switch and allow a user to turn
the furnace on and off. The wires going into the furnace
included a black "hot" wire, connected to the other side of the
switch, and a white "neutral" wire which was connected using a
wire nut to the white "Neutral" wire from the house wiring. I
disconnected all of these wires, and also the ground wire from the
I removed the front service panel from the furnace so that I could
perform the next steps safely. I removed the "single gang"
electrical box (which had housed the on/off switch) from the side
of the furnace, where it had been attached using a single sheet
metal screw. The term "single gang" describes a box which is
only wide enough to accommodate a single standard sized switch or
a single duplex outlet. A "double gang" box is wide enough
for two such devices, and a "triple gang" is wide enough for
three. Use the provided
link for a more complete description of this naming.
I chose to replace the single gang box, which only held a switch,
with a double gang box to accommodate both a switch and a
duplex outlet. I could have used the existing box and used a
single gang outlet/switch combination (Like the one at the
provided
link ), but I wanted to use a heavier duty switch and
I mounted a new double gang box to the side of the furnace using
multiple sheet metal screws. Then I passed the Romex house
wiring through a knockout hole in the side of the box and a
protective wire clamp. I wired the black "Hot" wire from the
house to the brass colored screw on a commercial grade 120v 15A
duplex outlet. The neutral wire from the house went to the
silver colored screw on the outlet, and the bare ground wire from
the house connected to the green ground screw on the
outlet. This was now connected just like any other outlet in
the house, and controlled by the breaker in the house's main
panel. I wrapped this duplex outlet with electrical tape, as
I like to do any time I am working in a metal box or a box
containing more than one device. Then I secured the duplex
outlet to the box with included screws.
I knocked out another one of the side holes in the box, and
installed another wire clamp, through which I passed some heavy
duty 12ga (About 2mm conductor diameter) 3 conductor flexible
cable. The black wire from this went to one screw connector
on the switch, and the black wire from the furnace connected to
the other screw connector on the switch. I connected the
white wires (from the flexible cable and from the furnace)
together using a wire nut, and connected the ground wire from the
flexible cable to the green screw on the box.
The final installation steps were to connect a quality, 120v 15A
plug to the other end of the flexible cable.
Now for the first test. I turned the breaker back on, and
used an outlet tester to verify the newly installed outlet on the
side of the furnace was working and wired correctly. I use
one which displays voltage along with any wiring faults, and which
also has a button which can be used to test ground fault circuit
interrupts (GFCI) like the one found at the provided
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Everything checked out properly, so I plugged the furnace into the
outlet, using the flexible cord. Nothing happened, so I
flipped the switch to the "On Position". I immediately
saw blinking lights on the furnace controller board. Next, I
adjusted the thermostat for heat, and within a minute, the furnace
had ignited the burners and was blowing hot air.
Good. All my connections were verified, so I turned off the
furnace, unplugged it, and installed the faceplate on the
box. Yes, I know I could have done this before I plugged
in the furnace. However, with over 40 years of experience
building, repairing, and modifying electrical and electronic
devices. I have learned to never put back together more than
you must for a specific test. Otherwise, you will just need
to go back and take it apart again when your test
What was next? More testing, of course. I needed to
figure out how much power the furnace used when generating
heat. Because of the way the furnace was now wired, it was
simple to connect an inline power meter between the outlet and the
furnace plug. I plugged one in and turned everything back on
again. The measured peak power use was 375 watts. The
solar generator can easily handle this for a couple hours and I
can charge it from various sources during gaps in operation.
So, I connected the solar generator and... Nothing. The
furnace would not even complete its self-test
sequence. Great... Did I break something? I plugged the
furnace back in directly to the power outlet, and everything
worked properly. Well, that's a plus, at least.
So, I spent the next several hours troubleshooting two different
blinking light error codes on the furnace controller board. One
referenced "Hot & Neutral Reversed" while the other referenced
"Open Ground". That was odd. Well, I had never actually
tested the output of this brand new solar generator, so I plugged
my outlet tester into the solar generator, and it verified "Open
Ground". Time for a technical support call.
THIS
is when I learned something important. Apparently,
this is a common issue with solar generators, and is part of their
design. To resolve the issue, I need to simply connect a
bonding plug into any 120v outlet on the generator.
You can purchase a Generator Bonding Plug, also called a
Ground-Neutral Shunt, and I have included several links as
reference. (
Bonding Plug or
Ground Neutral Shunt
). I found them selling for anywhere between $10 - $35
USD. But all they are is a $1 - $2 USD plug with a wire
connecting the ground terminal to the neutral terminal. So,
naturally, I built one using a spare plug I had. I connected
it to the solar generator, and the outlet tester was very
With fingers crossed I connected the furnace back to the solar
generator, with the shunt installed. This is very difficult
to do, by the way, when your fingers are crossed. Everything
started up properly, and I ran the furnace for 2 hours using just
Hopefully, I will not need it, but If I do, I have options.
I would love to hear your episode about what you do to prepare for
situations like this.
Provide feedback on this episode.