Hairspring

Yes, it’s year end. And the only awards show that anyone cares about is back in action. It’s the Balance Cocks second annual outing this week; this show will cover the most beautiful and ugliest watches of the year, the greatest new calibre, the strongest value, the watch which will lose you the most money after buying it, and far more. Then we have the big ones, our favorites and the ‘Absolute Cock-Up of the Year’ Grand Prizes. Plus, an Only Wrist of an oil rig worker who likes dressing to the nines. 

Links Mentioned:

Most Beautiful Watch Nominations:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-in-so-much-honeygold

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/mbandfs-special-project-one

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-greubel-forsey-hand-made-2

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-in-depth-roger-smith-ref-6

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-lange-datograph-handwerkskunst

The Ugliest Watch Nominations:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-speedmaster-moonphase-meteorite

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tag-heuer-x-fragment-design-glassbox-carrera-is-a-masterclass-in-collaboration

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/dennison-leans-into-peak-70s-glam-and-design-with-new-ald-dual-time

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-fp-journe-chronometre-furtif

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-audemars-piguet-rd5

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-breguet-type-xx-chronographe-2075bh

The Greatest Calibre Nominations:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/berneron-unveils-details-of-second-collection-the-quantieme-annuel

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-1815-tourbillon-in-platinum-now-with-a-black-grand-feu-enamel-dial

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-petermann-bedat-1825

https://www.breguet.com/250/en/experimentale-1/

The Greatest Value Nominations:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolexs-new-pastel-oyster-perpetual-dials-a-soothing-evolution-of-color

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-a-lange-sohne-1815-34mm

https://baltic-watches.com/en/collections/watches

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-omega-speedmaster-first-omega-in-space

The Greatest Depreciator Nominations:

https://www.patek.com/en/collection/twenty4/7340-1r-010

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/chopard-reveals-its-most-complicated-chiming-watch-to-date-with-the-luc-grand-strike

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-universal-tribute-chronographs

https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/07/seiko-credor-goldfeather-tourbillon-gbcf999.html

Worst Ad of 2025 Nominations:

https://imgur.com/a/yteGrrI (Phillips Horse Thing)

https://imgur.com/a/pD9Prfa (Urban Jurgensen)

New Independent Entrant Nominations:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/12/latelier-bernard-owl-duplex.html

Brand That Evolved Most Nominations:

https://www.berneron.ch

The Absolute Cock-Up Nominations:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-audemars-piguet-rd5

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-rolex-land-dweller

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-universal-tribute-chronographs

Grand Prize Nominations:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-in-so-much-honeygold

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-brings-back-the-lange-1-daymatic-with-a-honeygold-touch

Only Wrist:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/87538

https://www.europeanwatch.com/watch/audemars-piguet-vzss-vintage-dress-watch-vzss-rare-18k-yg-manual-62560

https://mimandcroket.com/project/rare-audemars-piguet-cal-13vzss/

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/honeycomb-dial-6350-rolex-explorer

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/1-of-26-london-racing-green-jaeger-lecoultre-reverso-1931

Erik & Max are back to answer your wide-ranging questions in the seventh installment of what is becoming a cornerstone of the podcast. Questions range from a new ‘holy trinity’ we’d select, what neo-vintage references collectors should be paying attention to yet aren’t, Langes on a budget, best Blümlein IWCs, our favored Cartier shapes, and far more. 

Links Mentioned:

Hajime Asaoka:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/hajime-asaoka/194815

Atelier Du Chronometrie:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/just-because-atelier-de-chronometrie-adc17

Yosuke Sekiguchi:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/yosuke-sekiguchi-primvere

Frodsham:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/charles-frodsham-double-impulse-chronometer-2

Smith:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/open-dial-roger-w-smith-series-2

Stephen McDonnell’s Talk:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1xQWripjPI

130:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/tiffany-dial-patek-philippe-130-chronograph

Dato QP:

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-datograph-guide/datograph-perpetual/

Dato QP Tourbillon:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/740-036-a-lange-sohne-datograph-perpetual-tourbillon

5960:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2014/12/up-close-with-the-patek-philippe-ref-59601a-chronograph-annual-calendar-in-steel.html

25668PT:

https://hairspring.com/products/25668pt-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum

43032:

https://hairspring.com/products/43032-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum

25636 RO:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/25636ba-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-skeleton

25657 MoP:

https://hairspring.com/products/25657or-quantieme-perpetuel-mother-of-pearl-dial-pink-gold

Mercator:

https://www.phillips.com/article/135703213/vacheron-constantin-mercator-history-guide

25881:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/fine-watches-7/repetition-minutes-john-schaeffer-reference-25881

47100:

https://hairspring.com/products/47100-chronograph-skeleton-platinum

14802ST:

https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/14802-royal-oak-jubilee

Engraved Enamel Primer (We’ll Try To Do One Soon):

https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/engraved-enamel-why-some-dials-never

2526 Dial Manufacture:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-2526-enamel-dial-donze-cadrans

Budget Lange:

https://mrwatchley.com/products/a-lange-sohne-saxonia-yellow-gold-102-001

1815 Up/Down (Gangreserve, not Gangenreserve, Erik Misspoke):

https://hairspring.com/products/221-027-1815-up-down-first-generation-white-gold

Just The Greatest Annual Calendar:

https://hairspring.com/products/330-039-saxonia-annual-calendar-u-s-boutique-white-gold

4-Digit to Swim:

https://hairspring.com/products/5512-submariner-gilt-dial-steel

Blumlein IWC:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/bundeswehr-3501-iwc-porsche-design-ocean-2000

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/3508-iwc-ingenieur-500k-a-m

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5240-iwc-portuguese-minute-repeater

GPHG:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/journal/how-fair-is-the-gphg-a-closer-look-at-the-oscars-of-watchmaking

Font:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/highly-tropical-longines-legend-diver-7150

https://hairspring.com/products/3970ep-second-series-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-platinum_42658

Parmigiani 2840:

https://hairspring.com/products/2840-toric-tourbillon-platinum

3670A:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/209429

3651J:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6235789

Voutilainen Zenith:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/zenith-x-voutilainen-x-phillips-calibre-135-o

Cartier:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/cartier/207628

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/tortue-monopoussoir-prive-platinum

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2610e-cartier-cpcp-tortue-minute-repeater

Only Wrist:

https://collectability.com/learn/collectability-in-depth-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-ref-3940/

https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/royal-oak-25686

A monumental occasion, this episode covers a complete chronology of the Patek Philippe ‘pure’ perpetual calendar. Arguably, the QP was the complication that built the Patek Philippe name more than any other through the mid-century. Yet, the main bloodline of QP has many nuances that aren’t often covered. This episode highlights all the main references you might expect and their significant points such as 1526, 2497/2438, 3448, and 3450. But if you’ve ever wondered about the 96 QP, 1527, 1591, 3449, or any of the oddball piece uniques, they’re all in here too. We couldn’t wait for leap year to release this, hopefully you’ll forgive us. 3940 and on will be in an upcoming part two. 

Links Mentioned:

Thomas Mudge Perpetual Calendar:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/john-harrison-enduring-discovery-l16055/lot.28.html

97975:

https://revolutionwatch.com/1925-patek-97975-the-worlds-first-perpetual-calendar-wristwatch/

96 QP:

https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/patek-philippe-ref-ref-96-lot-31-79

Imperial 96 Calendar:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-rare-complicated-patek-calatrava-you-might-not-have-known-about-is-coming-up-for-auction

1526:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/casa-masson-dial-1526-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-pink-gold

Coca Cola Watch:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-owned-by-the-founder-of-coca-cola-and-other-ultra-cool-pateks-now-on-exhibit-at-t

Briggs Cunningham Steel:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5065258

Magnifying Glass:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/casa-masson-dial-1526-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-pink-gold

Casemaker Keys:

https://collectability.com/learn/the-key-to-master-case-makers-for-patek-philippe/

1527:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5309213

https://www.ablogtowatch.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/Patek-Philippe-Rare-1527-Perpetual-Calendar-18k-Rose-Gold.jpg

1591:

https://le-monde-edmond.com/patek-1591-first-waterproof-perpetual-calendar/

https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-patek-philippe-an-extremely-important-and-unique-4982796/?

2497 & 2438:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-patek-philippe-reference-2497-part-1

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-patek-philippe-reference-2497-part-2

2438:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/91327

3449:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5493418

3448:

https://revolutionwatch.com/padellone-patek-philippes-most-elegant-perpetual-calendar-the-3448/

Senza Luna:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-reference-3448-senza-luna-in-depth

Unique 3448:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2008/important-watches-ge0804/lot.214.html

3450:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/180883

Only Watch:

570G:

https://hairspring.com/products/570g-calatrava-white-gold

565 Crown:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/213980

2526:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/first-series-2526-patek-philippe-calatrava

5040:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5040p-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar

Master comedian and legendary podcaster Tom Segura joins Erik & Max for a hilarious conversation on his love of watches and collecting. Tom’s enthusiasm ranges from FP Journe to 6263 Daytona, with more than his fair share of AD experiences on tour. Today we ask who was the most obnoxious sales staff he’s encountered yet, where his love of Lange came from, views on collecting philosophy, and what watches should be paired with various vehicles Tom has loved or hated. Plus, the 3 guest questions you all tune in for. This was a blast to record, a special thanks to Tom & crew.

Tom Segura:

https://www.instagram.com/seguratom/

Links Mentioned:

The Garth Brooks Saga:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fOybgckmwZU

The JRE In Question:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hX5QV_q4iAM

Richard Lange Jumping Seconds:

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-richard-lange/richard-lange-jumping-seconds/

John Mayer Royal Oak:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-john-mayer-audemars-piguet-royal-oak

Tuscan QP:

https://hairspring.com/products/25820pt-tuscan-dial-royal-oak-quantieme-perpetuel-platinum

Eastern Arabic Day-Date:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/eastern-arabic-dial-1806-rolex-day-date

Ressence:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-ressence-type-5

Trilobe:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/review-trilobe-une-folle-journee

Garrick:

https://monochrome-watches.com/introducing-garrick-s3-mk2-openworked-independent-watchmaking-calibre-ut-g04-price-specs/

RM66:

https://www.richardmille.com/collections/rm-66-flying-tourbillon

Chronometre Optimum:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-the-fp-journe-chronometre-optimum

UN Freak:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-ulysse-nardin-freak-s-nomad

PN:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/221654

570:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/219063

1463:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/204543

SBGA211:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/grand-seiko-spring-drive-snowflake-review

Linesport Centigraphe:

https://www.fpjourne.com/en/collection/linesport-collection/centigraphe

5470P:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-ref-5470p-001-110th-second-monopusher-chronograph-is-a-fast-beat-first

6263:

https://hairspring.com/products/6263-daytona-tropical-dial-steel

Tourbillon Souverain:

https://www.fpjourne.com/en/collection/classique-collection/tourbillon-souverain

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/products/chronometre-souverain-havana-pink-gold

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/ur-100v-p-02-titanium-steel

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/seven-new-patek-philippe-aquanaut-and-aquanaut-luce-models

This is a simple concept, but what’s recent that holds a fair shot of standing the test of time? And what are the absolute dogs that should be avoided? Both categories are addressed no holds barred, a fairly random smattering of watches that may be future classics, and just as many that, well, we’d best avoid. And yes, we’re probably wrong. 

Links Mentioned:

Berneron:

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/mirage-38-sienna-yellow-gold

Limited Odysseus Refs:

Titanium:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/lange-odysseus-titanium-review-2022

Odysseus Chronograph:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-chrongraph

Odysseus Honeygold:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-in-so-much-honeygold

Chopard LUC Quattro Mark IV:

https://monochrome-watches.com/first-look-chopard-l-u-c-luc-quattro-mark-iv-mkiv-ice-blue-platinum-micro-rotor-qualite-fleurier-specs-price-live-pics/

1860 (Tangentially Discussed):

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/luc-1860-steel

6196P:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-6196p-the-best-calatrava-in-a-generation

Simon Brette:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-simon-brette-chronometre-aristans-rose

RRCC2:

https://www.acollectedman.com/pages/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-two

With Gems:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-rexhep-rexhepi-cc2-ruby

Sequential Chronograph:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-mbf-lm-sequential-flyback

2941:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2023/07/petermann-bedat-reference-2941-split-seconds-chronograph-review.html

JLC Reverso Tribute:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-jaeger-lecoultre-reverso-tribute-chronograph-2

Tamara Ralph:

https://revolutionwatch.com/audemars-piguet-royal-oak-concept-flying-tourbillon-tamara-ralph/

Aquanaut Annual:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/three-new-patek-philippe-aquanauts-including-a-flyback-chronograph-and-aquanaut-luce-both-in-rose-go

FP Journe Quantième Perpétuel:

https://www.europeanwatch.com/blog/f-p-journe-quantieme-perpetuel-boutique-edition-review

Lange Repeater QP:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-minute-repeater-perpetual-live-pictures-thoughts-and-comparisons

Calatrava Pilots:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5524g-calatrava-pilot-travel-time

https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/5520rg-001

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-5522a-limited-edition-pilots-calatrava

NSO:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/breaking-news-cartier-nso-program

Land-Dweller:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-rolex-land-dweller

Glassbox Carrera:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tag-heuer-carrera-glassbox-39mm-its-time-to-care-about-the-carrera-again

Only Wrist:

https://www.onthedash.com/chronograph/autavia-1163t-siffert-chronomatic/

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5040g-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar

We all know Paul Newman’s Paul Newman, but what was the second most valuable watch at that auction? This week, Erik & Max ask that question, as well as investigating some of the other incredible Rolexes which have hammered that aren’t super-famous, but are super-intriguing. From nicknames like ‘The Sock’ to a Sub-Day-Date hybrid or false McQueen provenance, this week is all those small stories that are easily missed. 

Links Mentioned:

Petermann Bedat:

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/petermann-bedat-1825-rose-gold

Peter Elliot Glomb:

https://www.instagram.com/peterelliotglomb/

6241 Original Owner:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-2/reference-6241-daytona-paul-newman-john-player

‘Dark Star’ / ‘The Sock’ 6062:

https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-rolex-an-extremely-fine-rare-and-attractive-6185890/

https://le-monde-edmond.com/rolex-6062-how-to-spot-a-service-dial/

4113 (44mm, Misspoke):

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5674583

UG A. Cairelli:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/22560-universal-geneve-a-cairelli-split-seconds

Eberhard Split:

https://bulangandsons.com/blogs/watch-talks/a-split-second-with-eberhard

Special Request Day-Date-Submariner 1803:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/important-watches-5/day-date-reference-1803-a-white-gold-wristwatch

Red Day-Date 6511:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/88091

Clive James Nutting 3525 ‘Monoblocco’:

https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-163-311

Senna / Angelo Parrilla’:

https://hairspring.com/products/16528-daytona-floating-cosmograph-gold-dial-yellow-gold

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080119/23

Albino 6263:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080215/214

The King Flum / SDC Story of Fraudulent Albino:

https://www.screwdowncrown.com/p/the-rolex-albino-daytona

8171 Diamond Dial:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5759044

6538 Four-Line Big Crown:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/ROLEX/CH080216/37

Moon-Worn 1675 GMT-Master:

https://historical.ha.com/itm/space-exploration/flight-related-memorabilia/apollo-17-lunar-module-flown-rolex-gmt-master-chronometer-directly-from-the-personal-collection-of-mission-command-module-pilo/a/6033-41170.s

Loren Janes ’Steve McQueen’ Sub Saga:

https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2018/06/another-steve-mcqueen-submariner.html

6236 JCK:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/122294

Only Wrist:

https://collectability.com/product/patek-philippe-beta-21-ref-3587j/

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/db12t-de-bethune-in-wg

This is the story of how an unlikely ruffian from Marseille came to be regarded as the genius watchmaker of a generation. This week, Erik & Max tell the story of François-Paul Journe from expulsion to working with Asprey and sketching on napkins. While the story dominates two-thirds of the episode, the final third is dedicated to the watches themselves including a framework for how to separate generations of the brass pieces. This episode is an introduction to one of the most polarizing, eccentric, and relevant watchmakers working today (even if some of this history may have been embellished over time).  

Links Mentioned:

Kiran Shekar’s Book:

https://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=7012514&rid=12189

Pierre Halimi Interview:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bm1DAbRK3vA

HSNY Talk:

https://youtu.be/FqLEP3xNb3U?si=JQC8V0QsvcbWEbbM

ACM Guide:

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/the-story-of-early-f-p-journe

Planetary Clock for Asprey:

https://img.thehourglass.com/tachyon/2024/12/FP-Journe-Savoir-Faire-Feature-Planetarium-Clock.jpg

FP Journe Breguet Sympathique Clock:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/f.p.-journe-x-tha-for-breguet/216337

https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/05/fp-journe-breguet-sympathique-no-1.html

The Early Tourbillon Which Sold at 8.36M:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/205675?fromSearch=fp%20journe%20tourbillon

Initial Sketches of the Collection (Credit to Kiran Shekar’s Above Book):

https://imgur.com/a/Toiw3XL

Basel 99 With the Swine Quote:

https://thejourneguy.com/the-first-question-basel-1999/

‘Resonnance’ Prototype:

https://monochrome-watches.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/FP-Journe-Chronometre-a-Resonance-prototype-2.jpg

——

Tourbillon:

Souscription Number 1:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/CH080221/138

Second Generation:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/189240

Ruthenium:

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/tourbillon-remontoir-ruthenium-dial-platinum

ACM’s Helpful Table for Generations:

https://www.acollectedman.com/cdn/shop/files/Screenshot_2021-01-28_at_11.21.47_4438df7f-939e-4bbc-bc49-50b69b162777_1728x.png

—— 

Resonance:

Pre-Production:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2022/important-watches-4/resonance-pre-production-a-platinum-dual-time-zone

Souscription Resonance:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2020/05/fp-journe-souscription-tourbillon-resonance-phillips-geneva.html

4th Generation:

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/chronometre-a-resonance-brass-movement-platinum

ACM’s Helpful Table of Generations:

https://www.acollectedman.com/cdn/shop/files/A_Collectors_Guide_early_brass_Francois_Paul_Journe_Production_Numbers_A_Collected_Man_London2_2048x2048_50855f45-0381-4ba0-b9b4-dac59dedfff9_1728x.png

Parking Meter Resonance:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/mop-parking-meter-fp-journe-chronometre-a-resonance

—— 

Octa Collection (RdM):

RdM Prototype:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/NY080119/73

Straight Côtes de Genève:

https://thejourneguy.com/the-octa-straight-cotes-de-geneve/

Fantastic Guide to the Octa Chronographe:

https://watch4moi.com/f-p-journe-octa-chronographe/

Calendrier:

https://hairspring.com/products/octa-calendrier-pink-gold

——

George Daniels CS Gift:

https://www.rescapement.com/blog/how-did-i-miss-that-the-chronometre-souverain-fp-journe-gifted-to-george-daniels-sold-at-auction-last-year

Osama Sendi Quote Source:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/journal/market-insights-fp-journe-over-the-last-decade

Only Wrist:

RO QP MoP:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/162921

AP QP MoP:

https://hairspring.com/products/25657or-quantieme-perpetuel-mother-of-pearl-dial-pink-gold

5554ST:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/166220

Zeitwerk Striking Time:

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-zeitwerk/zeitwerk-striking-time/

JLC Parking Meter:

https://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/us-en/watches/collectibles/qve85801

Erik & Max return to answer your queries in a a wide-ranging episode that hits on everything from 2 watch modern Rolex collection picks, vintage value under 20K, roasting the 5159, figuring out the best QPs ever, the best watches ever sold that you never saw, how to manage databases, and valuing extremely rare watches. Plus and Only Wrist for a SEAL turned doctor. 

Links Mentioned:

Modern 2 Watch Rolex Collection:

Max:

https://www.europeanwatch.com/blog/rolex-datejust-126234-palm-motif-dial-review

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/southpaw-rolex-the-left-handed-gmt-gets-it-right

(Erik Misspoke here, Tiger Iron not Tiger Eye)

Erik:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/04/rolex-gmt-master-ii-126729vtnr-26715chnr.html (Tiger Iron)

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/just-because-two-rolex-le-mans-daytona

Watches Others Love That We Don’t Care About:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-rolex-daytona (Max is Wrong here, obviously) 

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/kurono-tokyo-watch-release-solve-flipping-problem (Both Agree)

20K Value:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/119795 (Crazy Example, Normal Dials Under 20K)

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/tropical-dial-a384-zenith-el-primero-2

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/breguet-dial-44920-movado-celestograf

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/14364-omega-seamaster-de-ville-calibre-321

https://hairspring.com/products/snow-white-multichron-12-steel

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/01-0040-418-zenith-el-primero-espada-sub-sea-moonphase

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/mk5-pumpkin-1675-rolex-gmt-master

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2998-3-lollipop-omega-speedmaster-2

Journe Market Insight:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/journal/market-insights-fp-journe-over-the-last-decade

5159G:

https://collectability.com/product/patek-philippe-perpetual-retrograde-calendar-ref-5159g-001/

Best QP:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vintage-audemars-piguet-reference-5516-perpetual-calendar

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/166220

https://hairspring.com/products/3970ep-second-series-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-platinum_42658

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-patek-philippe-reference-2497-part-1

Best Watches You Haven’t Seen:

https://hairspring.com/products/3941j-perpetual-calendar-dore-dial-early-second-series-yellow-gold (Not Max’s Watch, but Same Thing)

https://hairspring.com/products/25668pt-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum

https://langepedia.com/patek-philippe-5004acier-the-story-of-a-legend/ (Not Our Example, but Same Thing)

https://hairspring.com/products/3970ep-second-series-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-platinum_42658

Sub Case Note: Erik Misspoke 6238, Obviously Meant 6538

Only Wrist:

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/historiques-cornes-de-vache-1955-chronograph-for-hodinkee-steel

https://www.phillips.com/detail/longines/87664

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/gilt-dial-pcg-1675-rolex-gmt-master

This week, Erik X Max talk the worst collaborations in watches. While a unique idea in 2010, collaborations seem more common than a single brand’s own work these days. While some are brilliant, this episode is a discourse in where it can go wrong and where it’s heading. There are some you might not expect in here, as well as the obvious, all for their own uniquely unfortunate reasons. Plus, one of the more challenging Only Wrists faced. 

Links Mentioned:

Harry Winston FP Journe Opus 1:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/harry-winston-and-fp-journe/151612

Tiffany Nautilus:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-nautilus-5711-tiffany-blue-phillips-new-york-2021

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/NY080121/1T

Chronograph 911 GT3 (10Kish retail at launch, Erik here, misspoke):

https://shop.porsche.com/us/en-US/porsche-design-timepieces-exclusive-vehicle-watches-chronograph-911-gt3

Porsche Design Shisha 2.1:

https://shop.porsche.com/us/en-US/p/shisha-21-P-P3800-60/4046901595906

Low Hanging Fruit:

https://www.swatch.com/en-us/bioceramic-scuba-fifty-fathoms.html

Sinn Bape EZM1:

https://www.shucktheoyster.com/portfolio/sinn-camou-ezm1-bape-chronograph-503-2223-full-set-rare/

Hublot Nespresso:

https://www.nespresso.com/ch/en/hublot

Moser Studio Underdog (Shouldn’t have said no one about Studio Underdog, meant most):

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-fresh-passion-fruit-collab-from-h-moser-and-studio-underd0g

AP Alyx:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/an-official-partnership-between-audemars-piguet-and-1017-alyx-9sm-designer-matthew-williams-just-lau

AP Travis Scott:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguets-collaboration-with-rapper-and-mogul-travis-scott

Jay-Z iPod:

https://wristcheck.com/us/discover/editor's-pick/jay-z-ap-and-a-very-special-platinum-royal-oak-offshore

AP Arnold:

https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/royal-oak-offshore-25770

JM QP:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-john-mayer-audemars-piguet-royal-oak

RD2 Mention:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-rd2-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-ultra-thin-hands-on

KAWs:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-audemars-piguet-x-kaws-royal-oak-concept-tourbillon-companion

Marvel:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-black-panther-watch-live-pics-pricing

LVMH Rexhep:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/louis-vuitton-rexhep-rexhepi-lvrr01-chronographe-a-sonnerie

LVMH Voutilainen:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/03/hands-on-louis-vuitton-x-voutilainen-lvkv-02-gmr-6.html

H Travel Clock:

https://loupethis.com/auctions/hodinkee-eight-day-travel-clock

IWC Top Gun:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-week-on-the-wrist-the-iwc-top-gun-miramar-chronograph

Romain Jerome:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2016/08/hands-on-with-the-rj-romain-jerome-super-mario-bros.html

Only Wrist:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-rolex-daytona

https://hairspring.com/products/3705-fliegerchronograph-ceramic

https://hummerwatches.net

https://www.fpjourne.com/en/collection/classique-collection/ffc

https://hairspring.com/products/ur-100v-p-02-titanium-steel

Accomplished singer, songwriter, and producer James Blake joins the podcast for truly legendary discussion of watches, music, their intersection, and a veritable feast of unrelated topics. Conversation includes the role of atrophy in attraction to vintage, what watches he’d gift various well-known musicians, how ‘perfect’ finishing may be too perfect today, the watch musician Dave gifted him, and far more.

Links Mentioned:

15500ST:

https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak/15500ST.OO.1220ST.01.html

Berneron:

https://hairspring.com/products/mirage-sienna-yellow-gold

Collection Building:

Bowie:

https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/fashion/article/david-bowie-longines-agassiz-watch

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/fp-journe-vagabondage-iii-in-platinum

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/karl-lagerfeld-royal-oak-phillips-auction-2022

Lennon:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-wild-mostly-complete-story-of-john-lennons-lost-patek-philippe-2499

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-lange-datograph-perpetual-tourbillon-honeygold-lumen

https://hairspring.com/products/5004r-perpetual-calendar-split-seconds-chronograph-pink-gold

https://hairspring.com/products/2915-2-speedmaster-steel

James Hetfield:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/6541-rolex-milgauss

https://mrwatchley.com/products/breguet-empire-from-1973-with-extract-from-archive

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-explorer-14270-everything-you-need-to-know

Eric Clapton:

https://www.windvintage.com/abercrombie-fitch-reference-2447sf-unpolished

https://www.screwdowncrown.com/p/the-rolex-albino-daytona

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6394633

https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2009/12/bb-king-greatest-blues-guitarist-in.html#gsc.tab=0

John Mayer:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-john-mayer-audemars-piguet-royal-oak

https://www.europastar.com/the-watch-files/independent-watchmakers/1004114281-raul-pages-when-the-tortoise-becomes-a-hare.html

https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/4100

Daft Punk:

https://monochrome-watches.com/review-otsuka-lotec-7-5-jumping-hour-watch-indepdenent-watchmaking-japan-camera-lens-inspired-availability-price/

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/186-0013-omega-equinoxe-reverso

https://hairspring.com/products/25730st-royal-oak-dual-time-steel

Swift:

https://hairspring.com/products/elegante-40-factory-12-rows-of-diamonds-titalyt

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/153613

https://wristcheck.com/us/discover/marketcheck/rise-of-the-rolex-daytona-john-mayer

Dave:

https://laurentferrier.ch/products/classic-traveller-globe-night-blue

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/romain-gauthier-logical-one-titanium

https://mrwatchley.com/products/chopard-l-u-c-1860-yellow-gold

3 Questions:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-bulgari-octo-finissimo-automatic-blasted-gold

https://quillandpad.com/2022/12/06/bulgari-by-gerald-genta-octo-quadri-retro-chronograph-from-2011-embodying-the-past-and-a-possible-future-of-a-once-imperious-haute-horlogerie-leader/

https://laurentferrier.ch/products/classic-tourbillon-black-onyx

https://www.alange-soehne.com/mo-en/timepieces/richard-lange/richard-lange-pour-le-merite/richard-lange-pour-le-merite-in-750-white-gold-260-028

https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/14802-royal-oak-jubilee

https://www.matthewbaininc.com/product-page/cartier-tank-reverso-dual-time-zone-1970-s

https://www.the1916company.com/blog/a-revolution-in-design-the-de-bethune-dbs.html

https://monochrome-watches.com/introducing-de-bethune-dbd-evergreen-digitale-in-line-calendar-jumping-hour-specs-price/

Only Wrist:

https://www.watchprosite.com/rolex/rolex-1665-sea-dweller-mk1-patent-pending-twins-/732.964148.6706998/

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/burgundy-dial-25720pt-audemars-piguet-star-wheel-2

https://hairspring.com/products/140-021-zeitwerk-first-generation-yellow-gold

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/tritium-dial-5065j-patek-philippe-aquanaut