Erik & Max are going for it now: what are the worst dials made (the ones we all should’ve loved but can’t)? This is not just a roast of Jacob & Co, but rather dials and concepts that had promise, only to fail in the execution. There’s no shortage of content here this week, apologies for the long run time. Also, what might be the greatest Only Wrist yet. 

Links Mentioned:

A3630:

https://www.fratellowatches.com/dear-zenith-bring-back-the-sub-sea-ref-a3630/

Corum:

https://www.windvintage.com/corum-coin-watch-1896-unpolished

Rolex Mexican LE:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/3612-rolex-centenario-coin-watch

Cartier Basc 2522:

https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/christies-watches-online-time-spring/cartier-tank-basculante-ref-2522-97/53903

Patek Philippe 3919:

https://www.tickingtimehomme.com/shop/1990s-patek-philippe-calatrava-pat-3919-s19-001

Patek Philippe 5159:

https://collectability.com/product/patek-philippe-perpetual-retrograde-calendar-ref-5159g-001/

Patek Philippe 3923A (Doesn’t Belong on List, but Discussed):

https://www.tickingtimehomme.com/shop/1990s-patek-philippe-calatrava-pat-3919-s19-001

Patek Philippe 3712:

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/3712-1a-nautilus-jumbo-3-dot-steel

Patek Philippe 5712: 

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/patek-philippe-nautilus-5712

Patek Philippe 5085 Neptune:

https://monochrome-watches.com/collector-series-interview-gaurav-brings-the-light-on-the-unusual-patek-philippe-neptune-5085a/

Cubitus 5822:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-patek-philippe-cubitus-collection

AP Chronicle Guilloché Tapisserie History (Remember this is Written by AP):

https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/article/guillochage-tapisserie

1999 Time for Trees:

https://mrwatchley.com/products/audemars-piguet-royal-oak-foundation-time-for-the-trees-ref-15100st

Stamped 15710ST:

https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak-offshore/15710ST.OO.A027CA.01.html

Tridor:

https://amsterdamvintagewatches.com/shop/rolex-day-date-18239b-tridor/

Patek 40th Nautilus: 

https://www.watchprosite.com/patek-philippe/patek-philippe-nautilus-40th-anniversary-5976-1g-and-5711-p/11.1085918.8010198/

AP KAWS:

https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak-concept/26656TI.GG.D019VE.01.html

Early Tudor Subs ‘Acne’:

https://omegaforums.net/threads/tudor-snowflake-9411-0-thoughts-on-this-one.128820/

Radium Burn:

https://www.windvintage.com/rolex-stelline-star-dial-galaxy-reference-6098-in-18k-yellow-gold-on-jubilee-unpolished

Andersen Geneve Vita Vinum:

https://www.watchprosite.com/independents/a-picture-of-the-vita-vinum-by-andersen-geneve/16.1300521.11085531/

—— 

What Greases Gears:

Berneron:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/breitling-designer-sylvain-berneron-sets-out-to-explore-asymmetry-on-his-own

Longines:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/highly-tropical-longines-legend-diver-7150

Breguet:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/3057-breguet-classique-perpetual-calendar

Hermes:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-case-for-hermes

2005 Superocean:

https://hairspring.com/products/2005-yachting-superocean-slow-chronograph-steel

——

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/doorstop-dial-1803-rolex-day-date-pink-gold

https://www.gq.com/story/watches-of-the-week-7-25-20

https://www.fratellowatches.com/vintage-zodiac-zodia-chron-hermetic-valjoux-72-watch-review/#gref

https://www.ssongwatches.com/products/yema-yachtingraf

Yema Collecting Guide:

https://www.regatta-yachttimers.com/brands/yema/

While independents, Daytonas, and PCCs return to new highs, Erik & Max turn their attention to unusual corners of watches that aren’t aggressively collected today. As long as they’re rare, well studied, interesting, and beautiful, they’re in the running this week. Plus a two-in-one Only Wrist. 

Links Mentioned:

Questionable Cloche (last image):

https://www.phillips.com/detail/cartier/214804

Lange Grand Comp Pocket Watch:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/a.-lange-&-söhne/217289

Charlie’s Guide to the 1018:

https://www.strictlyvintagewatches.com/the-rolex-oyster-perpetual-reference-1018

Bubbleback:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-bubbleback-and-why-it-still-matters

Polerouter Guides:

https://universalgenevepolerouter.com/articles/

Rolex Veriflat:

https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/the-rolex-veriflat-and-why-its-a

6305 Datejust:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080322/159

Les Historiques Worth Knowing:

43045 1921 QP:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/CH080217/109

49005:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/specially-made-for-asprey-smooth-black-dial-49005-vacheron-constantin-perpetual-calendar-chronograph

47151:

https://ineichen.com/auctions/special-9/10/

47111:

https://ineichen.com/auctions/special-9/10/

49002 (4072-Inspired Plus Date):

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/49002-vacheron-constantin-les-historiques-chronograph-in-pt

47052:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/49002-vacheron-constantin-les-historiques-chronograph-in-pt

43032:

https://hairspring.com/products/43032-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum

Signed Heuer Examples:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/found-vintage-heuer-carrera-car-and-driver

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/shelby-cobra-dial-3147n-heuer-carrera-dato-12

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/fine-watches-9/reference-3647-carrera-sunray-dx-a-stainless-steel

116509 Sodalite:

https://www.thewatchbarn.com/shop/p/rolex-daytona-rare-stone-sodalite-arabic-dial-watch-116509-w010069

PLM 701.001 and Its Family:

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-1815/lange-tourbillon-pour-le-merite/

Salmon PLM:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2011/important-watches/lot.34.html

Neo Minerva:

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/minerva-chronograph-white-gold (Knurled One)

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/copper-salmon-pulsations-minerva-1858-monopusher-in-steel

https://www.phillips.com/detail/minerva/CH080221/96

True Vintage Minerva:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/minerva/CH080218/52

Blancpain QP:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5495-blancpain-villeret-perpetual-in-platinum

Unusual Midas:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/lapis-lazuli-dial-4316-rolex-king-midas-cellini

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/HK080319/931

1530: 

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/1530-rolex-oyster-perpetual-date-4

Only Wrist:

AP DD:

https://hairspring.com/products/25573ba-tiffany-co-dial-day-date-yellow-gold

https://hairspring.com/products/25594st-royal-oak-day-date-moonphase-steel

570:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/198629

This episode covers all you need to know to begin speaking Daytona. No more needs to be said. 

Links Mentioned:

Pre-Daytona:

3346 Zerographe:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080016/36

4113 Split:

https://www.phillips.com/article/47875238/comparing-two-rolex-reference-4113-of-the-twelve-made-1

4537:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/4537-rolex-chronograph

5034: 

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080220/50

3525:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/monoblocco-3525-rolex-chronograph

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-vintage-rolex-reference-3525-telling-a-beautiful-but-tragic-story

6034 Pre-Daytona:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080122/221

6234 Pre-Daytona:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080122/192

6238 Pre-Daytona:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/black-galvanic-dial-6238-rolex-pre-daytona-chronograph

A Fantastic Chronology of Pre-Daytona:

https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/reference-guide-vintage-rolex-pre-daytona

—— 

And we Begin Daytona, We Have to Link the Reference Points:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/understanding-the-rolex-non-paul-newman-daytona

The OG Le Mans Ad in In this Article:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/up-close-and-personal-with-the-2023-rolex-le-mans-daytona-ref-126529ln

A Great 6239:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/paul-newman-6239-rolex-daytona

6240 with Millerighe Pushers, the First Oyster Pusher:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/small-floating-dial-6240-rolex-daytona

This Guide has a Pretty Sound Pusher Study:

https://www.41watch.com/en/journal/historical-reviews-of-iconic-watches/retrospective-complete-de-la-rolex-daytona

6241:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080121/199

6262 & 6264:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/6262-rolex-daytona

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/lemon-paul-newman-6264-rolex-daytona-2

6263 & 6265:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/tropical-dial-6265-rolex-daytona

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/big-red-6263-rolex-daytona

The 6269 & 6270 that ‘Don’t Count’:

https://amsterdamvintagewatches.com/shop/rolex-daytona-6269/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-daytona-reference-6270

Our Manual Favorite Dials:

The Seminal Double Swiss Underline 6239 Article:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-first-rolex-daytona-by-benjamin-clymer

JPS:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/jps-paul-newman-6239-rolex-daytona

Solo 6240:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/solo-dial-6240-rolex-daytona

The Questionables:

Qaboos 6263:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/qaboos-6263-rolex-daytona

The Unicorn:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/white-gold-rolex-daytona-6265-unicorn-phillips-auction

And the Unicorn Controversy:

https://perezcope.com/2022/12/31/rolex-daytona-6265-the-unicorn-frankenstein-plot/

Neanderthal:

https://perezcope.com/2022/11/03/rolex-daytona-6240-paul-newman-neanderthal-a-myth-goes-extinct/

Yacht-Master 6264:

https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2008/06/ultra-rare-prototype-yachtmaster.html#gsc.tab=0

—— 

Automatic Daytona:

Floating 16520:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/porcelain-floating-cosmograph-16528-rolex-daytona

Patrizzi:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/16520-patrizzi-rolex-daytona

Four-Liner:

https://bulangandsons.com/blogs/watch-talks/spot-on-the-rolex-daytona-16520-mk2-four-liner

Intro of the 116520:

Panna 116520:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080424/194

Ceramic Daytona:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-rolex-daytona-now-with-black-cerachrom-bezel

New Ceramic Daytona:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-rolex-daytona

Le Mans:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/126529ln-rolex-le-mans-daytona

Tiffany Zenith Daytona:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/tiffany-signed-16520-zenith-daytona

—— 

Only Wrist:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-1815-gets-a-34mm-case

https://www.chopard.com/en-us/watch/161954-9001.html

It’s not just a Watches & Wonders retrospective this week, as Erik & Max attempt to also choose a superior vintage alternative in the same vein to each new release. There are roasts, reasonable critiques, and some unexpected loves in this year’s releases. This week’s episode covers the Land-Dweller, Calatrava, Lange Repeaters, and so much. Plus, Journe goes Geländewagen. 

Links Mentioned:

NSO Bye-Bye:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/breaking-news-cartier-nso-program

Tank à Guichets:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-cartier-tank-a-guichet-2025

Alternates:

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/vacheron-constantin-jumping-hours-43040

Alan Keating De Bethune (only capture I could find was on Reddit):

https://www.reddit.com/r/Watches/comments/1d4to4p/identify_watch_worn_here_by_alan_keating_from/

Land Dweller:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-rolex-land-dweller

1530:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/1530-rolex-oyster-perpetual-date-4

Alternates:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/tropical-14790st-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-2

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/beyer-signed-3212-iwc-yacht-club-ii-jumbo-automatic

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/1830-iwc-golf-club-sl

1908 Settimo Bracelet:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-perpetual-1908-in-yellow-gold-on-bracelet

Ceramic Dials:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-gmt-master-ii-left-hand-in-white-gold-with-green-dial

Tiger Iron:

https://www.ablogtowatch.com/hands-on-rolex-gmt-master-ii-126715chnr-tiger-iron-watch/

Reverso:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jaeger-lecoultre-updates-the-reverso-tribute-duoface-and-monoface-small-seconds

Great Wave:

https://www.woohootime.com/#/watches/526

6196P:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-6196p-the-best-calatrava-in-a-generation

Alternates:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2526-patek-philippe-calatrava-white-gold

https://www.windvintage.com/patek-philippe-reference-2509-unpolished-w/-extract

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-patek-philippe-6159g

Odysseus:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-in-so-much-honeygold

Alternates:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/3800-1j-yellow-gold-patek-philippe-nautilus

QP Repeater:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-minute-repeater-perpetual-live-pictures-thoughts-and-comparisons

https://hairspring.com/products/330-039-saxonia-annual-calendar-u-s-boutique-white-gold

G-Wagen Journe:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-fp-journe-chronometre-furtif

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/products/9240-ingenieur-perpetual-calendar-jumbo-yellow-gold

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/3057-breguet-classique-perpetual-calendar

https://www.gphg.org/en/watches/big-pilots-watch-perpetual-calendar-top-gun-edition-mojave-desert

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-chopard-luc-quattro-2025

Chances are, you won’t agree with the ideas we’re discussing this week. And that’s the whole point. This week, Erik & Max ask, ‘What do you believe that almost no on else in watches seems to?” Discussion leads to the Fast & Furious, Triple Calendars, Dufour, Lange QPs, and Instagram. Plus, what should a very successful furniture maker wear? 

Links Mentioned:

LUC XPS:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/chopard-brings-a-touch-of-heritage-to-the-luc-xps-with-a-new-forest-green-sector-dial

Breguet Guide by Tahoma:

https://www.tahomawatches.com/read/collectors-guide-to-early-breguet

Wellendorff Breguet:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2019/dubai-watches-db1901/lot.110.html

Profane Watches:

https://www.rescapement.com/blog/three-times-using-the-f-word-made-for-a-great-fing-watch

F&F Family (I couldn’t find Max’s Rolex):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQuc7wfO16Q

25447 Carrera:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2547s-heuer-carrera-12-dato

Oris pointer:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/oris-brings-back-the-bronze-for-its-latest-pointer-date-limited-edition

5726 (Max’s Fav):

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5726a-patek-philippe-annual-calendar

3712:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5726a-patek-philippe-annual-calendar

Dufour Backlash:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CuHdd-XrBAK/

345.056:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/salmon-dial-345-056-a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendar

310.225:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/310-225-a-lange-sohne-langematik-perpetual-wellendorff-bracelet

Only Wrist:

https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-geneva-edit/audemars-piguet-yellow-gold-perpetual-calendar-moon-phases-square-282/167335

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080117/34

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/walser-wald-dial-591-patek-philippe-chronograph-pink-gold

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/1579-spider-lug-patek-philippe-chronograph

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/tropical-dial-6265-rolex-daytona

There are small mistakes and then there is today’s topic: true faux pas. From interactions with other collectors to the way manufactures design their watches, this week is all about those social blunders. Obviously, this episode is mostly Erik & Max moaning and groaning, but there are one or two deeper points worth contemplating. In addition, the second topic at hand: if we were each to be mono-brand collectors, how would we each go about it?

Links Mentioned:

JPH Obituary: 

https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/03/obituary-jean-pierre-hagmann.html

Lange Triple Split:

https://monochrome-watches.com/a-lange-sohne-triple-split-in-pink-gold-and-blue-review-specs-price/

Steel Spring Bars in Precious Cases:

https://www.watchprosite.com/a.-lange-and-söhne/steel-spring-bars-eroding-away-the-lug-holes-/10.1546036.15123976/

Types of Guilloché:

https://www.screwdowncrown.com/p/guilloche-deception-atelier-wen-revolution

Gianni Agnelli:

https://italianwatchspotter.com/gianni-agnellis-watch-collection-over-the-cuff/?lang=en

Polerouter Window:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/204612-1-universal-geneve-polerouter-date

Home Plate:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/black-dial-7032-tudor-monte-carlo-home-plate

Lange 1 Perpetual:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/salmon-dial-345-056-a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendar

Type XX:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-breguet-type-xx-type-20

Going Monobrand:

Max:

V72:

https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/valjoux-lecoultre-us-chronograph-guide

Geophysic:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/e168-jaeger-lecoultre-geophysic

DSA History:

https://www.watchprosite.com/jaeger-lecoultre/jaeger-lecoultre-tribute-to-deep-sea-alarm-full-hands-on-review-sihh-2011-/2.681148.4348178/

Erik:

Lange Picks:

https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/saxonia/datograph-perpetual-tourbillon-honeygold-lumen

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-chrongraph

(Correction: chronograph, not split, obvs)

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-1815/lange-tourbillon-pour-le-merite/

Omega:

https://hairspring.com/products/2915-2-speedmaster-steel

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/omega-ploprof-in-depth

https://www.phillips.com/detail/OMEGA/CH080217/182

Only Wrist:

4072:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/HK080422/8025

4178:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/CH080223/184

CdV:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/NY080222/100

90s QP Skeletons:

https://hairspring.com/products/43032-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum

https://hairspring.com/products/25668pt-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum

This week is all about the Rolex that moved the brand from tool watches to luxury: the Day-Date. We cover the beginnings, chronology, famous wearers, advertising, interesting dials, and everything down to the Oysterquartz Perpetual Calendar (you read that right). It’s a more granular episode than most, but if you’ve been looking to get up to speed with the President, here’s a quick download. Plus, what should a successful private mountaineering guide spring for at 75k?

Links Mentioned:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/jean-claude-killy-6236-rolex-datocompax

https://hairspring.com/products/8171-padellone-yellow-gold_43285

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/stelline-dial-6062-rolex-triple-calendar-moonphase

6510:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/HK080116/293

6511:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080115/40

Steel Prototype:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6394633

Eisenhower Datejust at Auction:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ikes-rolex-doesnt-sell-rr-auction

Kennedy Omega:

https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/chronicle/1960-to-a-future-president

Kennedy Day-Date:

https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=115058

https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2008/07/history-of-rolex-president-part-9.html#gsc.tab=0

LBJ:

https://www.forbes.com/sites/msolomon/2016/10/04/a-brief-history-of-the-rolex-president-watch/

The 1803 (Just a Great Example of the Breed):

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/doorstop-dial-1803-rolex-day-date-pink-gold

1803 Castro (Lol at the ‘Freedom Fighter’ title on the Monochrome article):

https://monochrome-watches.com/fidel-castro-1926-2016-sportsman-freedom-fighter-rolex-wearer/

https://quillandpad.com/2019/02/27/wrist-watching-fidel-castro-and-his-gold-rolex-submariner/

Brezhnev:

https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2011/12/rolex-communists-leonid-brezhnev-and.html#gsc.tab=0

Saddam Hussein:

https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2019/09/rolex-tool-watching-middle-east-rolex.html#gsc.tab=0

Stella:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/burl-wood-dial-18039-rolex-day-date

Stone:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/bloodstone-dial-18239-rolex-day-date

Sequoia Wood:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/sequoia-wood-dial-1803-rolex-day-date

Burl/Birch:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/burl-wood-dial-18039-rolex-day-date

Khanjar:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/khanjar-rolex-day-date-1803-in-blue-wg

Rolex 1530:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/1530-rolex-oyster-perpetual-date-4

Oysterquartz:

https://hairspring.com/products/17000-oysterquartz-tropical-purple-pre-cosc-dial-steel

Oysterquartz Day-Date:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/birchwood-dial-19018-rolex-oysterquartz-day-date

Oysterquartz QP:

https://revolutionwatch.com/rare-finds-rolex-perpetual-calendar-oysterquartz/

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/well-preserved-black-16570-rolex-explorer-ii

https://hairspring.com/products/25730st-royal-oak-dual-time-steel

Dual Time Everest:

https://hairspring.com/products/7910v-everest-overseas-dual-time-titanium

Chronograph:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/everest-vacheron-constantin-overseas-chronograph

6542:

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/6542-gmt-master-steel

Day-Date Ad that Doesn’t Track:

https://www.adpatina.com/products/1969-rolex-day-date-ref-1803-taming-oil-well-fires-advertisement

Auctions aren’t new, not even close. And, if we’re honest, we could’ve played history better. Today, Erik & Max have given themselves a second chance to do so, going back through auctions of the last five years and picking out favorites in the 0-10K, 10-100K, and 100K+ hammer price brackets, respectively. There were so many great buys we all missed, and lessons to be learned from them. 

Links Mentioned:

0-10K:

VC 43031:

https://www.cambiaste.com/uk/auction-0453/vacheron-and-constantin-fine-yellow-gold-wrist-1-203095

UG 22541 Recent Christies Sale:

https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-6456808

UG 22541 First Phillips Sale:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/universal/CH080515/138

The Omega ‘Smiling’ Speedymoon: 

https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/CH080515/106

Speedymoon Guide:

OmegaSpeedyMoon.com

The Holy Grail:

https://www.omegaholygrail.com

Max Playing Liberace:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/important-watches-9/a-yellow-gold-bracelet-watch-circa-1940

10-100K:

Heuer Sunray DX Carrera:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/fine-watches-9/reference-3647-carrera-sunray-dx-a-stainless-steel

Heuer Cobra Carrera:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/shelby-cobra-dial-3147n-heuer-carrera-dato-12

Patek Philippe 2577:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2019/important-watches-ge1904/lot.458.html

Stelline 6098 Rolex With Grummann Engraving:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6515299

Possibly-Dubius 16550 Explorer II ‘Prototype’ Blue Nipple Dial:

https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-16550-explorer-ii-lot-356-252

AP 25657 Tuscan Dial:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/HK080122/938

100K+:

Rolex 6239 PN:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6515276

Rolex 6238 Gloss Gilt 14k First Sale:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080117/91?fromSearch=pre-daytona

Rolex 6238 Gloss Gilt 14k Second Sale:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/HK080319/906

Patek Philippe Pink on Pink 1518:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/important-watches-4/reference-1518-a-pink-gold-perpetual-calendar

RWS II:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/roger-smith/NY080123/12

FPJ Resonance Souscription 004:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/NY080120/102

Patek Philippe 3428 Platinum:

https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-patek-philippe-an-extremely-fine-and-rare-4982656/

Only Wrist:

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/datograph-collectors-guide

https://hairspring.com/products/401-026-1815-chronograph-first-generation-white-gold

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/ulysse-nardin-monopusher-386-88

https://hairspring.com/products/43032-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange1/lange-1a-112-021/

Yes, it’s Q&A time again. You asked (in a big way!), we answer. All the insane questions you asked us and more. This round includes crucial questions such as TR900 vs 3970, the greatest 1016 variant, our favored vintage and modern Patek Philippes of all time, independent divers (where’d they go?), views on Glashütte Original.  

Links Mentioned:

Glashütte Original:

https://www.glashuette-original.com/en/

5711:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-collectors-guide-to-the-patek-philippe-nautilus-5711

5204:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5204-title-here-live-pics

VC 1921:

https://www.fratellowatches.com/vacheron-constantin-historiques-american-1921-a-very-pleasant-platinum-surprise/

Greatest 1016:

https://www.ssongwatches.com/products/rolex-explorer-ref-1016-gilt-exclamation

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/honeycomb-dial-6350-rolex-explorer

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/6429-commando-rolex-oyster

Independent Divers:

https://www.mbandf.com/machines/mbf-machines/horological-machines/hm7

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/de-bethune-db28gs-grand-bleu-hands-on

3970 v TR900:

https://hairspring.com/products/3970ep-second-series-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-platinum_42658

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/us-navy-tornek-rayville-tr-900

79290ST:

https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/royal-oak-offshore-79290

Chanel by Romain Gauthier:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/chanel-monsieur-de-chanel-jump-hour

The Most Beautiful Gallet Ever:

https://hairspring.com/products/snow-white-multichron-12-steel

1-2 Punch Collection:

Max:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/gilt-dial-1016-rolex-explorer

https://hairspring.com/blogs/journal/timekeeping-beyond-earth-astronauts-and-their-speedmasters

Erik:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/tropical-meters-first-5513-rolex-submariner

https://hairspring.com/products/401-026-1815-chronograph-first-generation-white-gold

Seiko Golf:

https://www.thetokeiclub.jp/product-page/seiko-cronos-golf-13074-in-full-set

Gilbert Albert:

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/collector-guide-asymmetrical-watches

47101:

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/collector-guide-asymmetrical-watches

Oysterquartz:

https://hairspring.com/products/17000-oysterquartz-tropical-purple-pre-cosc-dial-steel

Roger Dubuis QP:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/h37-roger-dubuis-hommage-perpetual-calendar

Fav Vintage/Modern Patek Ever:

Vintage:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-patek-philippe-reference-2497-part-1

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080322/114

https://davideparmegiani.ch/watch/patek-philippe-1526-3/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/eric-claptons-patek-philippe-2499

Modern:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2016/05/a-detailed-look-at-eric-claptons-one-of-a-kind-patek-philippe-ref-5004p.html

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2022/the-international-connoisseur-jewels-and-watches/reference-5970g-019-a-white-gold-perpetual

https://www.fratellowatches.com/patek-philippe-5164a-aquanaut-travel-time/

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5374p-patek-philippe-minute-repeater-perpetual-calendar

Neo-VC:

https://hairspring.com/products/47100-chronograph-skeleton-yellow-gold

https://hairspring.com/products/43032-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/semainier-47052-vacheron-constantin-triple-calendar-white-gold

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/salmon-dial-49005-vacheron-constantin-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-platinum

Latest Wearers:

https://www.instagram.com/p/C_a_9QCOQtg/

https://www.fpjourne.com/en/collection/classique-collection/chronometre-souverain-havana

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/425-050-a-lange-sohne-1815-rattrapante-honeygold

https://hairspring.com/products/octa-calendrier-pink-gold

https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/patek-philippe-ref-5004r-rare-perpetual-calendar-split-seconds-101/115997

In Part 2 of the series, Erik & Max turn their eye to the lesser discussed watchmakers alive and operating today. It’s not just independents, but it’s mostly independents. Perhaps not those you may have guessed, however. From Hazemann & Monnin to AdC, Kuan Rao, and Jean-Batiste Voit, it’s all here. Plus, what should a nightclub owner retiring to the Spanish countryside to make wine sport? And a few thoughts on this latest steel 1518. 

Links Mentioned:

1518 Steel:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/monaco-legend-group-patek-steel-1518

Morgan Aeromax:

https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/2009-morgan-aeromax

Hajime Asaoka:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-with-the-hajime-asaoka-tourbillon-1-high-end-independent-watchmaking-from-tokyo-japan

https://www.fratellowatches.com/hajime-asaokas-new-tourbillon-noir-reasserts-the-independent-watchmakers-art-deco-style/

Hazemann & Monnin: 

https://quillandpad.com/2023/02/24/victor-monnin-and-alexander-hazemanns-school-watches-two-talented-next-generation-watchmakers-to-look-out-for/

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/interview-hazemann-and-monnin

Urban Jürgensen Alfred:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/urban-jurgensen-the-alfred-hands-on

P8 with Detent:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/urban-jurgensen/CH080320/259

Modern UJ Under Kari with P4:

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/urban-jurgensen/1140-brown-dial-pink-gold/

Atelier de Chronométrie:

https://www.atelierdechronometrie.com

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/atelier-de-chronometrie-salonqp-introducing

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/story-of-adc

Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-antimagnetique-for-only-watch

Kuan Rao, Logan:

https://monochrome-watches.com/interview-independent-watchmaker-chinese-china-logan-kuan-rao-orca-iceberg-wuwei-equal-push-escapement/

(Frank Gehry Buildings, an Aside):

https://www.architecturaldigest.com/gallery/best-of-frank-gehry-slideshow

Theo Auffret:

Jean-Batiste Voit Apprentice:

https://www.ablogtowatch.com/j-b-viot-in-paris-watch/

Theo Auffret Works:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-theo-auffret-tourbillon

https://www.instagram.com/auffret_paris/?hl=en

https://monochrome-watches.com/introducing-the-tourbillon-grand-sport-is-the-stunning-follow-up-to-theo-auffrets-break-out-piece-specs-price/

Only Wrist:

https://onlineonly.christies.com.cn/s/watches-online-geneva-edit/patek-philippe-steel-calatrava-ref-437-393/149927

https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/5402