Erik & Max return to answer your queries in a a wide-ranging episode that hits on everything from 2 watch modern Rolex collection picks, vintage value under 20K, roasting the 5159, figuring out the best QPs ever, the best watches ever sold that you never saw, how to manage databases, and valuing extremely rare watches. Plus and Only Wrist for a SEAL turned doctor. 

Links Mentioned:

Modern 2 Watch Rolex Collection:

Max:

https://www.europeanwatch.com/blog/rolex-datejust-126234-palm-motif-dial-review

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/southpaw-rolex-the-left-handed-gmt-gets-it-right

(Erik Misspoke here, Tiger Iron not Tiger Eye)

Erik:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/04/rolex-gmt-master-ii-126729vtnr-26715chnr.html (Tiger Iron)

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/just-because-two-rolex-le-mans-daytona

Watches Others Love That We Don’t Care About:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-rolex-daytona (Max is Wrong here, obviously) 

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/kurono-tokyo-watch-release-solve-flipping-problem (Both Agree)

20K Value:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/119795 (Crazy Example, Normal Dials Under 20K)

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/tropical-dial-a384-zenith-el-primero-2

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/breguet-dial-44920-movado-celestograf

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/14364-omega-seamaster-de-ville-calibre-321

https://hairspring.com/products/snow-white-multichron-12-steel

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/01-0040-418-zenith-el-primero-espada-sub-sea-moonphase

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/mk5-pumpkin-1675-rolex-gmt-master

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2998-3-lollipop-omega-speedmaster-2

Journe Market Insight:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/journal/market-insights-fp-journe-over-the-last-decade

5159G:

https://collectability.com/product/patek-philippe-perpetual-retrograde-calendar-ref-5159g-001/

Best QP:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vintage-audemars-piguet-reference-5516-perpetual-calendar

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/166220

https://hairspring.com/products/3970ep-second-series-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-platinum_42658

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-patek-philippe-reference-2497-part-1

Best Watches You Haven’t Seen:

https://hairspring.com/products/3941j-perpetual-calendar-dore-dial-early-second-series-yellow-gold (Not Max’s Watch, but Same Thing)

https://hairspring.com/products/25668pt-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum

https://langepedia.com/patek-philippe-5004acier-the-story-of-a-legend/ (Not Our Example, but Same Thing)

https://hairspring.com/products/3970ep-second-series-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-platinum_42658

Sub Case Note: Erik Misspoke 6238, Obviously Meant 6538

Only Wrist:

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/historiques-cornes-de-vache-1955-chronograph-for-hodinkee-steel

https://www.phillips.com/detail/longines/87664

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/gilt-dial-pcg-1675-rolex-gmt-master

This week, Erik X Max talk the worst collaborations in watches. While a unique idea in 2010, collaborations seem more common than a single brand’s own work these days. While some are brilliant, this episode is a discourse in where it can go wrong and where it’s heading. There are some you might not expect in here, as well as the obvious, all for their own uniquely unfortunate reasons. Plus, one of the more challenging Only Wrists faced. 

Links Mentioned:

Harry Winston FP Journe Opus 1:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/harry-winston-and-fp-journe/151612

Tiffany Nautilus:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-nautilus-5711-tiffany-blue-phillips-new-york-2021

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/NY080121/1T

Chronograph 911 GT3 (10Kish retail at launch, Erik here, misspoke):

https://shop.porsche.com/us/en-US/porsche-design-timepieces-exclusive-vehicle-watches-chronograph-911-gt3

Porsche Design Shisha 2.1:

https://shop.porsche.com/us/en-US/p/shisha-21-P-P3800-60/4046901595906

Low Hanging Fruit:

https://www.swatch.com/en-us/bioceramic-scuba-fifty-fathoms.html

Sinn Bape EZM1:

https://www.shucktheoyster.com/portfolio/sinn-camou-ezm1-bape-chronograph-503-2223-full-set-rare/

Hublot Nespresso:

https://www.nespresso.com/ch/en/hublot

Moser Studio Underdog (Shouldn’t have said no one about Studio Underdog, meant most):

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-fresh-passion-fruit-collab-from-h-moser-and-studio-underd0g

AP Alyx:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/an-official-partnership-between-audemars-piguet-and-1017-alyx-9sm-designer-matthew-williams-just-lau

AP Travis Scott:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguets-collaboration-with-rapper-and-mogul-travis-scott

Jay-Z iPod:

https://wristcheck.com/us/discover/editor's-pick/jay-z-ap-and-a-very-special-platinum-royal-oak-offshore

AP Arnold:

https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/royal-oak-offshore-25770

JM QP:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-john-mayer-audemars-piguet-royal-oak

RD2 Mention:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-rd2-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-ultra-thin-hands-on

KAWs:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-audemars-piguet-x-kaws-royal-oak-concept-tourbillon-companion

Marvel:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-black-panther-watch-live-pics-pricing

LVMH Rexhep:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/louis-vuitton-rexhep-rexhepi-lvrr01-chronographe-a-sonnerie

LVMH Voutilainen:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/03/hands-on-louis-vuitton-x-voutilainen-lvkv-02-gmr-6.html

H Travel Clock:

https://loupethis.com/auctions/hodinkee-eight-day-travel-clock

IWC Top Gun:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-week-on-the-wrist-the-iwc-top-gun-miramar-chronograph

Romain Jerome:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2016/08/hands-on-with-the-rj-romain-jerome-super-mario-bros.html

Only Wrist:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-rolex-daytona

https://hairspring.com/products/3705-fliegerchronograph-ceramic

https://hummerwatches.net

https://www.fpjourne.com/en/collection/classique-collection/ffc

https://hairspring.com/products/ur-100v-p-02-titanium-steel

Accomplished singer, songwriter, and producer James Blake joins the podcast for truly legendary discussion of watches, music, their intersection, and a veritable feast of unrelated topics. Conversation includes the role of atrophy in attraction to vintage, what watches he’d gift various well-known musicians, how ‘perfect’ finishing may be too perfect today, the watch musician Dave gifted him, and far more.

Links Mentioned:

15500ST:

https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak/15500ST.OO.1220ST.01.html

Berneron:

https://hairspring.com/products/mirage-sienna-yellow-gold

Collection Building:

Bowie:

https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/fashion/article/david-bowie-longines-agassiz-watch

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/fp-journe-vagabondage-iii-in-platinum

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/karl-lagerfeld-royal-oak-phillips-auction-2022

Lennon:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-wild-mostly-complete-story-of-john-lennons-lost-patek-philippe-2499

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-lange-datograph-perpetual-tourbillon-honeygold-lumen

https://hairspring.com/products/5004r-perpetual-calendar-split-seconds-chronograph-pink-gold

https://hairspring.com/products/2915-2-speedmaster-steel

James Hetfield:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/6541-rolex-milgauss

https://mrwatchley.com/products/breguet-empire-from-1973-with-extract-from-archive

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-explorer-14270-everything-you-need-to-know

Eric Clapton:

https://www.windvintage.com/abercrombie-fitch-reference-2447sf-unpolished

https://www.screwdowncrown.com/p/the-rolex-albino-daytona

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6394633

https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2009/12/bb-king-greatest-blues-guitarist-in.html#gsc.tab=0

John Mayer:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-john-mayer-audemars-piguet-royal-oak

https://www.europastar.com/the-watch-files/independent-watchmakers/1004114281-raul-pages-when-the-tortoise-becomes-a-hare.html

https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/4100

Daft Punk:

https://monochrome-watches.com/review-otsuka-lotec-7-5-jumping-hour-watch-indepdenent-watchmaking-japan-camera-lens-inspired-availability-price/

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/186-0013-omega-equinoxe-reverso

https://hairspring.com/products/25730st-royal-oak-dual-time-steel

Swift:

https://hairspring.com/products/elegante-40-factory-12-rows-of-diamonds-titalyt

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/153613

https://wristcheck.com/us/discover/marketcheck/rise-of-the-rolex-daytona-john-mayer

Dave:

https://laurentferrier.ch/products/classic-traveller-globe-night-blue

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/romain-gauthier-logical-one-titanium

https://mrwatchley.com/products/chopard-l-u-c-1860-yellow-gold

3 Questions:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-bulgari-octo-finissimo-automatic-blasted-gold

https://quillandpad.com/2022/12/06/bulgari-by-gerald-genta-octo-quadri-retro-chronograph-from-2011-embodying-the-past-and-a-possible-future-of-a-once-imperious-haute-horlogerie-leader/

https://laurentferrier.ch/products/classic-tourbillon-black-onyx

https://www.alange-soehne.com/mo-en/timepieces/richard-lange/richard-lange-pour-le-merite/richard-lange-pour-le-merite-in-750-white-gold-260-028

https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/14802-royal-oak-jubilee

https://www.matthewbaininc.com/product-page/cartier-tank-reverso-dual-time-zone-1970-s

https://www.the1916company.com/blog/a-revolution-in-design-the-de-bethune-dbs.html

https://monochrome-watches.com/introducing-de-bethune-dbd-evergreen-digitale-in-line-calendar-jumping-hour-specs-price/

Only Wrist:

https://www.watchprosite.com/rolex/rolex-1665-sea-dweller-mk1-patent-pending-twins-/732.964148.6706998/

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/burgundy-dial-25720pt-audemars-piguet-star-wheel-2

https://hairspring.com/products/140-021-zeitwerk-first-generation-yellow-gold

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/tritium-dial-5065j-patek-philippe-aquanaut

Have you ever what a Musketeer Dial is? Does Millerighe sound more like a sneeze than a pusher to you? What does PPDRSD stand for, are cherry Daytonas a real thing, and is PCG the same as Cornino? This and all the other terms you see frequently in vintage sports Rolex described as quickly as possible in this week’s episode. It’s that simple. 

Links Mentioned:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/exclusive-the-pinnacle-of-holy-grails-a-patek-1518-in-steel-is-coming-to-auction-in-november

Daytona:

Lemon:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/lemon-paul-newman-6264-rolex-daytona-2

JPS:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/jps-paul-newman-6239-rolex-daytona

Oyster Sotto / RCO:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/156464

Musketeer Dial:

https://italianwatchspotter.com/i-quadranti-moschettieri-nei-daytona-paul-newman/?lang=en

Oyster Split:

https://www.41watch.com/en/journal/buyers-guides/rolex-oyster-split-the-legendary-gold-daytona-6263-6265

Floating Big Red:

https://www.windvintage.com/rolex-floating-big-red-daytona-ref-6263

Solo Dial:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/understanding-the-rolex-daytona-6240

‘Blue’ Daytona:

https://rarebirds.de/product/rolex-6239-blue-daytona/

‘Cherry’ Daytona:

https://www.windvintage.com/rolex-cherry-red-daytona-reference-6239-w-extra-bracelet

Double Swiss:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-part-i/le-mans-daytona-double-swiss-underline-reference

Millerighe / P301 / P302:

https://www.41watch.com/en/journal/historical-reviews-of-iconic-watches/retrospective-complete-de-la-rolex-daytona

Floating Cosmograph:

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/16528-daytona-floating-cosmograph-gold-dial-yellow-gold

4-Liner:

https://bulangandsons.com/products/rolex-daytona-steel-16520-white-mk2-4-liner-dial-w-626

Patrizzi:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/178794

Inverted 6:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080220/168

APH:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/196430?

Crown Guard Evolution:

https://www.aircooltime.com/p/rolex-submariner-gilt-era-crown-guard

Eagle Beak vs Cornino?:

https://le-monde-edmond.com/eagle-beak-vs-cornino/

Submariner:

Red Depth:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/191745

Underline:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/148173

Neat Font:

https://www.windvintage.com/blog/collectors-guide-rolex-submariner-reference-5512

Exclamation:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/116116

Kissing 4 / Long 5:

https://www.watchprosite.com/rolex/rolex-fat-font-inserts-explored-mk1-through-mk3/732.849983.5769208/

Bart Simpson:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/bart-simpson-5512-rolex-submariner

Sea-Dweller:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/reference-points-rolex-sea-dweller

Rail Dial:

https://hairspring.com/products/1665-great-white-sea-dweller-steel

PP DRSD:

https://www.drsd.com/watch-info/double-red-seadweller/patent-pending-drsd.html

GMT-Master:

Concorde:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/concorde-1675-rolex-gmt-master

Fuchsia:

https://www.strictlyvintagewatches.com/rolex-fuchsia-bezel-gmt-master-reference-1675

Nipple Dial:

https://gmtmaster1675.com/mark-1-brown/

Radial Dial:

https://gmtmaster1675.com/mark-3/

Explorer:

Long Hand:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-explorer-reference-points

Space-Dweller:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/192943

Honeycomb:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/honeycomb-dial-6350-rolex-explorer

Frog Foot:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/frog-foot-dial-1016-rolex-explorer

1655:

Straight Hand:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/mk1-straight-hand-1655-rolex-explorer-ii

Albino:

https://10pastten.com/watch/rolex-explorer-ii-albino-freccione/

16550 Cream:

https://hairspring.com/products/16550-cream-panna-dial-explorer-ii-steel

Only Wrist:

https://le-monde-edmond.com/rolex-1831-the-king-of-day-dates/

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5100-rolex-texano

This week is more automotive than most, as Erik & Max are joined by the esteemed automotive journalist Henry Catchpole. Henry is an immensely talented story-teller and also happens to adore watches. This episode spans Henry’s path as an enthusiast, a family Vacheron, Enicar, The Bugatti Tourbillon, if cars are having their own Quartz Crisis now, the car/watch enthusiast link, the 6541 motorsport connection, and what Michael Fassbender should really be wearing. This one was an honor and a delight to record, all thanks to Henry. 

Links Mentioned:

Henry’s First Public Watch Post:

https://www.instagram.com/p/DM0exPmvcZM/?img_index=1

Henry’s Family VC 4072:

https://flic.kr/p/2ro17yp

Tony’s Guide to 4072 Generally (Most of These Are Later Than Henry’s):

https://www.rescapement.com/blog/for-your-reference-vacheron-constantin-reference-4072-dial-variants

Jim Clark Sherpa Graph:

https://enicar101.com/2021/11/19/the-correct-reference-of-jim-clarks-sherpa-graph/

Stirling Moss Sherpa Graph:

https://enicar101.com/2020/07/29/stirling-moss-and-his-stirling-moss/

Another Great Enicar For Fun:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2303-enicar-garnix

Omega Chrono-Quartz / Albatross / Montreal (It Has Many Nicknames):

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/an-exceptional-omega-chrono-quartz-montreal

Henry’s Bugatti Tourbillon Walk-Around Where Watches Serve As Analogy:

https://youtu.be/PClxnRzIE4g?si=rFX03EgGft2GtFow

Penske 963 RSP:

https://youtu.be/Q7ZFUe9m16s?si=z0FyMSgeptycLUMD

The Databank:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/yes-you-can-still-buy-a-casio-calculator-watch

McMurtry Spéirling:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tHIbvYWhaxA&t=802s

TAG F1 Revival:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tag-heuers-revival-of-the-formula-1

Rice Krispies ‘Snap Crackle Pop’ Watch:

https://flic.kr/p/2ro1jst

Orange Racing 145.022-69:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/orange-racing-dial-145-022-69-omega-speedmaster

Three Guest Questions:

Wakmann:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/value-proposition-71-1309-70-wakmann-triple-calendar-chronograph

Heuer 1614 Champion:

https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/christies-watches-online-time-spring/heuer-champion-chronograph-ref-1614-75/53880

(Erik here, Misspoke, Champion T not Championship)

LeJour:

https://www.fratellowatches.com/tbt-lejour-pvd-chronograph-value-still-exists/

RW Smith:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/piece-unique-roger-w-smith-series-i

Arken Alterum:

https://arken.uk/watches/p/arkenalterum1122

VC Everest:

https://hairspring.com/products/7910v-everest-overseas-dual-time-titanium

Scurfa:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/episode-90-a-chat-with-paul-scurfield-of-scurfa-watches

6541:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/181678

885103/01 ‘Evil Nina’:

https://hairspring.com/products/885103-01-evil-nina-compax-steel

Jochen Rindt:

https://www.dive-bomb.com/article/remembering-jochen-rindt-f1-s-only-posthumous-champion

1815 Up/Down:

https://hairspring.com/products/221-027-1815-up-down-first-generation-white-gold

139.035 Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase Lumen:

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/139-035-grand-lange-1

Only Wrist:

LF Traveller:

https://monochrome-watches.com/introducing-laurent-ferrier-classic-traveller-series-atelier-magnetic-green-hands-on-specs-price/

2447NS:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches-2/reference-2447ns-carrera-reverse-panda-a-stainles

130 Monopusher:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-reference-130-mono-pusher-chronograph-in-steel-sells-for-5-million-and-other-such-sto

Henry’s Instagram and Channel:

https://www.instagram.com/henrycatchpole/

https://www.youtube.com/@Hagerty/videos

What’s after neo-vintage yet before contemporary watches? Quite a lot as it turns out. Erik & Max set themselves the challenge of uncovering some of the great references that might go over looked, as they predate watch media as we know it. And it’s not all high-flying independents. Picks range from multiple examples under 10K (some under 5K, even) all the way to, yes, the crazy ones. Regardless, and all across the spectrum, there are some magnificent watches from this time that perhaps are still a touch overlooked. Plus, an only wrist for a marine biologist in a salmon hatchery. 

Links Mentioned:

Legend Diver:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-longines-legend-diver

Original ref. 7150 Legend Diver:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/highly-tropical-longines-legend-diver-7150

3575.20 Blued Speedy Moonphase:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/3575-20-omega-speedmaster-moonphase

Reissued Alaska ‘Space Coconut’:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/omega-speedmaster-alaska-project

Actual Original Alaska II Prototype:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/145-022-alaska-ii-prototype-omega-speedmaster

Piaget 15933:

https://hairspring.com/products/15933-onyx-skeletonized-chronograph-yellow-gold

5101:

https://quillandpad.com/2021/12/24/patek-philippe-reference-5101-magnum-opus-with-concealed-ten-day-tourbillon/

Philippe Stern’s Own Observatory Tourbillon 3699:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/journal/a-brief-guide-to-the-patek-philippe-1563-split-seconds-and-3699-observatory-tourbillon

The Lapis and Onyx Subs:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/lapis-dial-16618-rolex-submariner

https://www.instagram.com/p/BTMf2kkhqEA/

First Gen Zeitwerk Lumen (anchor bridge in second photo):

https://hairspring.com/products/140-035-zeitwerk-lumen-phantom-platinum

Contemporary Bridge (also second photo):

https://hairspring.com/products/148-038-zeitwerk-date-white-gold

6159G, Patek’s Sapphire Dial:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-patek-philippe-6159g

101.050:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2016/03/a-detailed-look-at-the-ultra-rare-lange-1-honey-gold.html

403.025X ‘Pisa’ Dato:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/CH080223/138

VC 30010:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6450389

VC 30030:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/important-watches-9/reference-30030-a-pink-gold-skeletonized-minute

VC 30020:

https://www.phillips.com/article/137956122/an-underrated-complicated-90s-icon-the-vacheron-constantin-ref-30020

25810OR:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/25810or-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-120th-anniversary

5049P:

https://www.watchprosite.com/patek-philippe/latest-addition--ref-5049p/11.1467591.13835786/

https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2019/watches-l19070/lot.71.html

5139P:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6378199

3670A:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-the-patek-philippe-3670a-a-new-chronograph-in-st

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/197902

5959R:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5959r-patek-philippe-split-seconds-monopusher

(Erik here, I misspoke when I said 5970 as many people thinking first in-house chronograph movement, meant to say 5170)

5950A:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/197334

DB15:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/de-bethune/158064

T10:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-with-the-fp-journe-t-10-anniversary-tourbillon

Holland & Holland CS:

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/fpjourne-chronometre-holland-holland

FP Journe’s Own Post Warning About Wall Clocks:

https://www.instagram.com/p/DGflvsFP7_W/

Only Wrist:

16610:

https://www.41watch.com/en/journal/buyers-guides/the-rolex-submariner-kermit-exploring-the-16610lv-and-its-variations

1680:

https://hairspring.com/products/1680-submariner-steel

16660 Triple Six:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/mk2-matte-16660-rolex-sea-dweller

5066A:

https://hairspring.com/products/5066a-aquanaut-japan-blue-limited-edition-steel

Erik & Max build two-watch collections twice with a generous budget, once with independents and once with large brands. This, in order to help crystalize the strengths and weaknesses of each type of watch. Conversation ranges from the Dubail to the Vingt-8 with everything in-between. Plus, an Only Wrist for a gentleman running construction in Austin, looking for a watch to give his son. 

Links Mentioned:

Independent-ish Collecting:

Closed Back:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/closed-caseback-small-mig-101-002-a-lange-sohne-lange-1

Dubail:

https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-dubail-fine-limited-edition-gold-wristwatch-112/181720

Onyx:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/black-onyx-and-pink-gold-these-are-the-30th-anniversary-lange-1s-from-a-lange-and-sohne

Breguet 3230:

https://monochrome-watches.com/the-collectors-corner-the-breguet-chronograph-3230-and-3237-daniel-roth/

Independent Collecting:

LM101:

https://hairspring.com/products/lm101-for-hodinkee-steel

(Correction from Max, 40mm not 38)

Kari:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/voutilainen-vingt-8

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/brown-guilloche-dial-voutilainen-observatoire

Large Brand Collecting:

All About Datograph QP:

https://hairspring.com/products/5270r-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-pink-gold

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-datograph-guide/datograph-perpetual/

YM Ti:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-made-a-wearable-titanium-watch-how-are-people-not-freaking-out

14802ST:

https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/14802-royal-oak-jubilee

Rarely Seen Tuscan 14802PT:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080222/10

Bonus YK 14802ST:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080222/59

Everest Dual Time:

https://hairspring.com/products/7910v-everest-overseas-dual-time-titanium

The Most Literal Breguets Ever:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-breguet-type-xx-chronographe-2075bh

Only Wrist:

14060:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2019/watches-online-6/rolex-ref-14060-submariner-a-stainless-steel

126509:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/126509-rolex-cosmograph-daytona

‘Terra Brown’ Saxonia:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/terra-brown-380-044-a-lange-sohne-saxonia-automatik

YM Ti:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-made-a-wearable-titanium-watch-how-are-people-not-freaking-out

Some will tell you that Audemars Piguet have become the Royal Oak company. But why is this sole model so damn successful? How did one watch come to invent and subsequently take over a market segment? What are the models worth paying attention to and how are collections structured? This is the story of the Royal Oak, from two years before the 5402’s release straight through to ceramics and RD#2.

Links Mentioned:

AP Chronicle Early Years Story and Stats:

https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/article/birth-of-an-icon

Integrated 2499:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jay-z-patek-2499

5182 and 5179:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CzZbEHhJWSJ/

https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/asset/7_5

Genta’s First Sketch:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2022/gerald-genta-icon-of-time-3/original-prototype-design-of-the-audemars-piguet

Tapisserie and How It’s Made:

https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/article/guillochage-tapisserie

Some Ads:

https://www.adpatina.com/products/1974-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-ref-5402-steel-at-price-of-gold-advertisement

A Series 5402 ‘AP Down’:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080222/8

D Series 5402 ‘AP Up’:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2022/important-watches-part-i/d-series-jumbo-royal-oak-ref-5402st-stainless

5402BC:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080116/198

Midsized Evolution Guide:

https://www.watchbrotherslondon.com/articles/reference-talk-how-to-identify-royal-oak-ref-4100-14332-14486-14700-14790

14790 Guide:

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/collectors-guide-audemars-piguet-14790

14802 Jumbo Royal Oak ‘Jubilee’:

https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/14802-royal-oak-jubilee

25572 ‘The Owl’:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/the-owl-25572ba-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-day-date

5548:

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/audemars-piguet-quantieme-perpetuel-5548-yellow-gold-1

Early Royal Oak QP History:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/early-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-in-depth

https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/article/Royal-Oak-Calendar-watches-1983-1996

https://www.adpatina.com/products/1994-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-advertisement

Special Dials in the RO QP:

https://hairspring.com/products/25820pt-tuscan-dial-royal-oak-quantieme-perpetuel-platinum

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080222/17

https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/royal-oak-25636

MoP Dual Time:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080222/78

The Start of the Offshore:

https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/article/birth-of-the-offshore

‘The Beast’:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/a-very-tropical-early-offshore-25721st-the-beast

Kasparov:

https://hairspring.com/products/25860st-tropical-dial-kasparov-royal-oak-chronograph-steel

15002:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080222/82

15202 Generational Differences:

https://www.watchprosite.com/audemars-piguet/first-gen-15202-royal-oak-jumbo/3.1554086.15251221/

16202:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-reference-16202-jumbo

56175TT:

https://www.tickingtimehomme.com/about/1990s-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-championship

25829TR:

https://www.gioielleriabonanno.it/en/audemars-piguet-il-tantalio-conquista-il-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-ref-25829tr/

Frosted Gold:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-royal-oak-frosted-gold-hands-on

RD#2:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-rd2-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-ultra-thin-hands-on

https://revolutionwatch.com/walking-the-ultra-thin-line-the-audemars-piguet-rd2/

Only Wrist:

https://www.instagram.com/p/DL4dfvBT0fD/

https://hairspring.com/products/ur-100v-p-02-titanium-steel

(The only Urwerk calendar is a pocket watch, it turns out)

https://www.urwerk.com/collections/historical-pieces/ur-1001

Erik & Max return to answer your queries in a a wide-ranging episode that hits on everything from guilty pleasures to asking if the independent space is too crowded. Plus, what is the best QP ever made? Why isn’t shaped Patek popular? What’s the next hot indie? This and much more, plus a great question from Max’s mom. 

Links Mentioned:

Lange Error:

https://youtu.be/HGlz937qkuw?si=y_-wOUQp2lH8SDtD&t=4206

Guilty Pleasures:

https://thekeystone.com/products/rolex-yellow-gold-rainbow-daytona-ref-116598

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-iwc-pilots-watch-41-automatic-top-gun-lake-tahoe

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-concept-laptimer-michael-schumacher

https://www.watchprosite.com/audemars-piguet/review-the-new-ap-royal-oak-laptimer-michael-shumacher/3.997188.7008998/

Breguet Magnetic Pivots:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-breguet-classique-chronometrie-7727

Self-Taught Independents:

https://www.phillips.com/article/123122036/hajime-asaoka-auction-tourbillon-tsunami

https://monochrome-watches.com/interview-independent-watchmaker-chinese-china-logan-kuan-rao-orca-iceberg-wuwei-equal-push-escapement/

https://www.gq.com/story/jn-shapiro-made-in-america-watch

Lapis Breguet LF:

https://www.instagram.com/p/Ct5XYjARV49/

Jade FPJ:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/NY080222/10

Best QP Bar None Conversation:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/NY080222/10

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080221/122

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/3941j-perpetual-calendar-dore-dial-early-second-series-yellow-gold

https://hairspring.com/products/43032-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vintage-audemars-piguet-reference-5516-perpetual-calendar

Shaped Patek Vs Cartier:

https://collectability.com/learn/gilbert-albert-the-genius-designer-who-changed-the-face-of-watchmaking/

https://www.gq.com/gallery/best-watches-2023-golden-globes

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080123/21

Under-Represented Independents:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/journal/a-collector-s-guide-to-laurent-ferrier

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-theo-auffret-tourbillon

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/double-balancier-convexe-s2-titanium

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/balancier-contemporain-red-gold

Square High Watchmaking:

https://monochrome-watches.com/collectors-series-nopstar83-audemars-piguet-edward-piguet-ultra-thin-skeleton-perpetual-25734or/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-new-cartier-tank-cintree-limited-edition-in-platinum-live-pics

Resurrection:

https://www.phillips.com/article/47875238/comparing-two-rolex-reference-4113-of-the-twelve-made-1

Wood:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/sequoia-wood-dial-1803-rolex-day-date

Carreras:

https://www.windvintage.com/heuer-carrera-eggshell-dial-reference-3647s

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/heuer-carrera-2447snd-steel

http://www.chronocentric.com/forums/chronotrader/index.cgi?page=1;md=read;id=74662

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2447nst-heuer-carrera-second-execution-3

Women in Watches:

https://www.instagram.com/its.cara.time/

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/interview-daryn-schnipper

https://www.instagram.com/a.dose.of.time/

https://www.instagram.com/lunglungthun/

https://www.instagram.com/aytystyle/

https://www.instagram.com/oldwatchlady/

https://www.youtube.com/@BrittPearceWatches

https://www.instagram.com/malaikamc/

https://collectability.com/press/tania-edwards-the-woman-who-taught-a-generation-about-patek-philippe/

https://www.instagram.com/dimepiece.co/

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/products/25668pt-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-perpetual-5270-titanium-green-unique-piece-children-action-2022

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080222/69

The inimitable mastermind behind Unpolished returns to join Erik & Max; this episode is a wide-ranging discussion with Mr. Tony Traina himself. It covers three large segments of discussion. First, what’s been grinding Tony’s gears lately (and some of Erik’s as well). Then a collection-building exercise of two lifelong two-watch collections: one collection at 20K and one at 200K. Finally what are some trends that we’re not paying enough attention to right now? 

Links Mentioned:

Lange on a Nato:

https://www.instagram.com/lange.on.a.nato/

Omega’s Bronze Gold:

https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watches/seamaster/heritage-models/seamaster-300/seamaster-300-bronze-gold/product

East Germany’s Indestructible ‘Superfest’ Glass:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vEvBpjCOBu0

Cartier-Restored Cintrée:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/cartier/HK080221/829

Collection Building (in Order of Discussion):

20K:

SBGW033:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/sbgw033-grand-seiko-130th-anniversary-first

SBGM221:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/my-trusty-old-grand-seiko-is-still-shockingly-accurate

2500:

https://thekeystone.com/products/patek-philippe-rose-gold-calatrava-watch-ref-2500

165.024:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/big-triangle-165-024-omega-seamaster-300

1803/9 (Just Imagine This on a Strap):

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/arabic-disc-1803-9-rolex-day-date

73443T:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/exotic-dial-73443t-heuer-camaro-dato

E335 Black Dial:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/e335-lecoultre-valjoux-72-chronograph

222100:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/222100-1-universal-geneve-tri-compax

200K:

Empire:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches/empire-a-rare-yellow-gold-automatic-wristwatch

L. Leroy & Cie:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/leroy/CH080515/249

3800J:

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/patek-philippe-nautilus-3800j-yellow-gold

MN:

https://hairspring.com/products/9401-0-marine-nationale-submariner-steel

16520:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/porcelain-floating-cosmograph-16528-rolex-daytona

6239:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/206127

25820PT:

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/25820pt-tuscan-dial-royal-oak-quantieme-perpetuel-platinum

1815 Chronograph:

https://hairspring.com/products/401-026-1815-chronograph-first-generation-white-gold

Trends We’re Not Paying Enough Attention To:

https://www.nytimes.com/2023/03/26/fashion/watches-workforce-switzerland.html

David Candaux:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/david-candaux/217670

Suzanne Rohr:

https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/under-the-hammer-watch-auctions-in

Only Wrist:

384.032:

https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/saxonia/saxonia-moon-phase/saxonia-moon-phase-in-750-pink-gold-384-032

3417:

https://hairspring.com/products/3417-amagnetic-steel

E168 Geophysic:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/jaegerlecoultre/CH080218/134