While prior episodes have covered your hot takes, this week’s discussion sees Erik & Max dive into a few controversial views of their own. From undisclosed ebauches in independent work today to silicon going widespread, or moonphase accuracy across to 6538s, there’s a lot to unpack here. 

University of Utah Hot on Journe?:

https://shorturl.at/cSCXN

6538 at Sotheby’s:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches/reference-5510-big-crown-submariner-a-stainless

Petermann Bédat 2941:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2023/07/petermann-bedat-reference-2941-split-seconds-chronograph-review.html

Pinaud Chronograph:

https://www.sylvain-pinaud.com/the-monopoussoir-chronograph/

LeComte:

https://monochrome-watches.com/florent-lecomte-a-recently-discovered-gem-of-independent-watchmaking/

A bit on Akrivia and MHC/BNB Concept:

https://revolutionwatch.com/the-three-kings-of-independent-watchmaking/

Famous Lange Service 17K Bill:

https://www.reddit.com/r/ALangeSohne/comments/1gmdmha/17k_service_bill/

3970:

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/3970ep-small-hallmark-second-series-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-platinum

3940:

https://hairspring.com/products/3940p-perpetual-calendar-third-series-platinum

Auctions Primer:

https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/buying-watch-auction-guide

881101/01 Clapton:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/881101-01-clapton-universal-geneve-tri-compax

Patek’s March to Silicon:

https://collectability.com/learn/patek-philippe-advanced-research-made-simple/

Rolex Silicon:

https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-dynapulse-escapement-in-depth-technical-explanation-5hz-calibre-7135-syloxi-hairspring-review/

A Great Moonphase Read:

https://jackforster.substack.com/p/challenge-to-watchmakers-whos-up

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/products/h11-central-balance-blue-dial-pink-gold

https://hairspring.com/products/insight-micro-rotor-titanium

https://hairspring.com/products/2526j-calatrava-frecerro-dial-yellow-gold

https://le-monde-edmond.com/patek-3428-platinum-enamel-dial/

This month’s Q&A went all over the map. Erik & Max answer the Ferrari Luce equivalent from the Holy Trinity, market updates, if Cartier hype has passed, the one watch collection, and the greatest neo-vintage values today. 

Links Mentioned: 

Arkansas:

https://crystalbridges.org

6105G:

https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/6105g-001

5170:

https://hairspring.com/products/chronograph-black-dial-white-gold

5172:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5172g-hand-wound-chronograph-photos

Tamara Ralph:

https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch/ap-x-tamara-ralph.html

15202:

https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak/15202ST.OO.1240ST.01.A.html

VC 56:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-fiftysix-self-winding

VC Quai de L’Île:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-quai-de-lile-in-steel

Cabaret:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-cabaret-tourbillon-in-honeygold

Saxonia:

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-saxonia/

NYC Watch Guy’s Analysis:

https://medium.com/@nycwatchguys/the-bull-case-for-watches-9a56450baf1e

@Niccoloy:

https://www.instagram.com/niccoloy/

@Young.Brando:

https://www.instagram.com/young.brando/

WatchCharts (Hit Max Timeline):

https://watchcharts.com/watches/indexes?utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email

5251 Portofino:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5251-iwc-portofino-moonphase

UJ:

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/reference-8-yellow-gold

5020:

https://www.phillips.com/article/133156594/patek-philippe-5020-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-guide

John Shaeffer:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/205999

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/201306

Tank Monopoussoir:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/cartier-cpcp-2846-tank-monopoussoir

Hamatic:

https://monochrome-watches.com/hands-on-moritz-grossmann-hamatic-argente-pendulum-winding-calibre-106-saxony-glashutte-rose-gold-specs-price-review/

1463:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/122018

5070: 

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/saatchi-salmon-dial-5070g-014-patek-philippe-chronograph

PLM:

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-tourbillon-pour-le-merite/

1675:

https://hairspring.com/products/1675-gilt-exclamation-dial-gmt-master-steel

Odysseus:

https://hairspring.com/products/363-179-odysseus-steel

Deadbeat Seconds:

https://thedeadbeatseconds.substack.com

Grantland:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grantland

Look at my *Expletive* Red Trousers:

https://lookatmyfuckingredtrousers.blogspot.com

1815 Thin Honey:

https://hairspring.com/products/239-050-1815-thin-homage-to-fa-lange-honey-gold

5740:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5740g-patek-philippe-nautilus-perpetual-calendar

5270:

https://hairspring.com/products/5270r

5374:

https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/5374g-001

Independent Picks:

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/chronometre-artisans

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/mirage-38-prussian-blue-white-gold-1

https://www.phillips.com/detail/petermann-bedat/205470

2RE:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/ferdinand-berthoud-fb-2re-1

Handmade:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/01/greubel-forsey-hand-made-1-review.html

6238:

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/6238-pre-daytona-chronograph-black-galvanic-dial-steel-1

Sports Betting:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584544

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584458

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/231677

https://www.phillips.com/detail/auffret-paris/231274

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches-ge2601/chronometre-bleu-reference-cb-a-tantalum

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584401

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/products/sport-auto-blue-titanium

https://hairspring.com/products/363-179-odysseus-steel

https://hairspring.com/products/1655-explorer-ii-steel

Part 2 of Episode 66 has finally come to pass. This episode chronicles the notable history of A. Lange & Söhne from acquisition by Richemont and Günter Blümlein’s passing in 2001 until the present. This episode targets key folks involved, notable successes and releases, stories/lore often told, and basics of leadership. We hope this episode brings some learning and a few fun facts along the way. 

Links Mentioned: 

https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/manufacture/news-and-events/gunter-blumlein

The Richemont Umbrella:

https://www.richemont.com

Fabian Krone Interview:

https://people.timezone.com/mdisher/lange/fkint/fkinterview.htm

Anthony de Haas Interviews:

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/history-a-lange-sohne-anthony-de-hass

https://revolutionwatch.com/lange-sohne-anthony-de-haas-zeitwerk-minute-repeater/

Tino Bobe Interviews:

https://yachtstyle.co/a-lange-sohnes-tino-bobe-on-keeping-time-with-tradition/

https://escapementmagazine.com/articles/tino-bobe-a-lange-sohne/

https://www.luxuo.com/leaders/watches-leaders/securing-the-future.html

Krone-Era Watches:

Lange 1 Tourbillon:

https://hairspring.com/products/704-025-lange-1-tourbillon-platinum

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-tourbillon/

Langematik QP:

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/310-021-langematik-perpetual-calendar-yellow-gold

Double Split:

https://hairspring.com/products/404-032-double-split

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-double-split-rattrapante/

Tourbograph PLM:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/141658

Zeitwerk Story:

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/140-035-zeitwerk-lumen-phantom-platinum-1

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-zeitwerk/

https://watchesbysjx.com/2022/10/lange-zeitwerk-guide.html

Wilhelm Schmid Interviews:

https://oracleoftime.com/a-lange-sohne-ceo-wilhelm-schmid-interview/

https://www.watchpro.com/the-big-interview-a-lange-sohne-ceo-wilhelm-schmid/

https://squaremile.com/watches/wilhelm-schmid-ceo-lange-sohne-interview/

https://www.watchonista.com/articles/interviews/chat-lange-sohne-ceo-wilhelm-schmid-about-numbers-community-and-luxury-retail

Datograph U/D:

https://hairspring.com/products/405-035-datograph-up-down-platinum

Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar:

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendar-tourbillon/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-tourbillon-lumen

Grand Comp:

https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/1815/grand-complication

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-grand-complication/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-a-lange-sohne-grand-complication

2015 New Manufacture:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-opens-new-manufactory-building

Triple Split:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-triple-split-introducing

Odysseus:

https://hairspring.com/products/363-179-odysseus-steel

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-odysseus/

Distribution:

https://revolutionwatch.com/a-lange-sohne-salons-boutiques/

Honey Gold:

https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/selections/honey-gold-watches

Lumen:

https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/selections/lumen

Handwerkskunst:

https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/selections/handwerkskunst-editions

Favorites:

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-dubail-white-gold

https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/176317

https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/1815/tourbograph-perpetual-honeygold-homage-to-f-a-lange/tourbograph-perpetual-honeygold-homage-to-f-a-lange-in-750-honeygold-706-050

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-i-2/lange-1-leon-martens-maastricht-reference-101-047

https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/153737 

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/403-035-datograph-first-generation-platinum

https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/167254

Erik & Max pick apart the three big sales happening this spring, to help give a framework for analyzing collectors' behavior, see what’s changing in the market, and have some fun. Then, the game is on as five lots are each picked with a bet value to be achieved estimated (this was recorded May 5) ahead of time—and an over/under from the opposing host. Plus, an Only Wrist for the 90s lovers. 

Links Mentioned: 

The Three Sales in Question:

https://www.phillips.com/auction/CH080226

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches-ge2601

https://www.christies.com/en/auction/rare-watches-31080/

The PLM Result over 1M:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches-4/tourbillon-pour-le-merite-reference-701-007-a

Prototype Urban Jurgensen:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/urban-jürgensen/231710

Prototype AP:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584403

https://www.phillips.com/auction/CH080226

Sports Betting:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584544

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584458

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/231677

https://www.phillips.com/detail/auffret-paris/231274

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches-ge2601/chronometre-bleu-reference-cb-a-tantalum

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584401

Highest Hammer Relative to Estimate:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/232384

https://www.phillips.com/detail/f.p.-journe/229223

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/191622

Wildcard That Could be 1/3 or 3X Estimate:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584504

Case Patina:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/191674

Cleaned 1526:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/191577

5007P:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/232263

Only Wrist:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6139093

https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/passion-time-important-private-collection-watches-timepieces-online/audemars-piguet-yellow-gold-perpetual-calendar-royal-oak-moon-phases-2237/201101

Watch & Wonders has come and past, but what of this year’s releases might be enduring? And what, if anything, was a complete mistake? This is the Winners & Blunders of 2026, where for every pick in the top and worst category, Erik & Max also include an alternate vintage pick to consider. 

Links Mentioned: 

Winners:

Streamliner 34:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/h-moser-and-cie-introduces-the-streamliner-two-hands-in-28mm-and-34mm

Streamliner QP:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-moser-streamliner-perpetual-concept

Alternate:

https://hairspring.com/products/25594st-royal-oak-day-date-moonphase-steel

Saxonia Annual 36:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-downsizes-the-saxonia-annual-calendar-to-36mm

Alternate:

https://hairspring.com/products/330-039-saxonia-annual-calendar-u-s-boutique-white-gold

Lange 1 Tourbillon QP Lumen:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-lange-1-tourbillon-perpetual-calendar-lumen

Precious OP:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-oyster-perpetual-goes-full-solid-gold-in-34mm-and-28mm-ref-124205-and-276208

Alternate:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/watches-13/rolex-reference-1002-a-stainless-steel-wristwatch

Enamel Daytona:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-cosmograph-daytona-reference-126502-in-rolesium-with-enamel-dial-and-grey-bezel

Alternate:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/128046

VC:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-overseas-ultra-thin-2500v

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-vacheron-historiques-american-1921-rose

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-overseas-dual-time-cardinal-points

Alternate:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/225008

RRCHF:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rexhep-rexhepi-chronograph-flyback-rrchf

Alternate:

https://hairspring.com/products/414-028-1815-chronograph-white-gold

Blunders:

6105G:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-patek-philippe-6105g

Alternate:

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/2577r-calatrava-enamel-dial-pink-gold

https://hairspring.com/products/anywhere-aurora-titanium

IWC Vertical Drive:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/iwc-heads-for-space-with-the-pilots-venturer-vertical-drive-with-spaceflight-qualification-from-vast

https://www.ulysse-nardin.com/about-us/unvrs/freak-2001

https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/jaeger-lecoultre-amvox-q192t440-10-10-jlc-yzr0es

Alternate:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/105-012-66-omega-speedmaster

Cartier:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-celebrates-10-editions-of-prive-with-six-new-editions

Alternate:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2396-cartier-cpcp-monopoussoir

JLC Master Control Chronometre:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-jaeger-lecoultre-master-control-chronometre-a-new-integrated-bracelet-sport-watch-in-three-model

Alternate:

https://www.berneron.ch/quantieme-annuel-black

https://hairspring.com/products/25654st-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-salmon-dial-steel

Only Wrist:

Grahame Fowler:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-thirteen-milsubs-of-grahame-fowler

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-watches-with-grahame-fowler

MN:

https://hairspring.com/products/9401-0-marine-nationale-submariner-steel

Langematik:

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-langematik/

Collectors love a good fun fact, unknown history, or unexpected trivia. This episode is full of all of that. From co-axial Nautilus and a Rolex QP to Houdini and Carl Jung, it’s all here. We guarantee, regardless of just how educated you are, there’ll be a fact in here you won’t have known prior. A huge thank you to all of you, the audience, for contributing to this knowledge base. Plus, and Only Wrist for a train conductor. 

Links Mentioned: 

Early Daniels Escapements in Normal Watches:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/worlds-first-wristwatch-co-axial-escapement-london-science-museum-patek

https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2012/george-daniels-so-l12313/lot.21.html

Scott Carpenter History:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/scott-carpenters-breitling-cosmonaute-the-first-swiss-wristwatch-worn-in-space

Artemis II Watches:

https://www.watchesofespionage.com/blogs/woe-dispatch/watches-artemis-ii-moon-omega-speedmaster-breiting

Walter Lange:

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-homage-to-walter-lange/

Round Pusher Vichet 2499:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/12/patek-philippe-2499-vichet-case-round-pushers.html

Theft of the Marie Antoinette:

https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/the-time-thief-who-stole-106-rare-clocks-in-a-daring-heist-180981979/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naaman_Diller

Rolex QP:

https://revolutionwatch.com/rare-finds-rolex-perpetual-calendar-oysterquartz/

https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-prototype-oysterquartz-lot-329-378 (Most Recent Sale) 

*Modified Datejust QP was allegedly Muller not Dubuis, we messed up!

1921 Vacheron True Heritage:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/an-original-vacheron-constantin-american-1921-from-1919

New 1921:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-vacheron-historiques-american-1921-rose

Reconstructed in Traditional Method: 

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/this-piece-unique-vacheron-is-proof-that-sometimes-they-do-make-em-like-they-used-to

HR Ekegren:

https://obwcollection.com/products/h-r-ekegren-minute-repeater-wristwatch

1735:

https://www.watchprosite.com/blancpain/more-on-the-iconic-blancpain-1735/4.1185931.9517651/

Piaget Gouverneur Grande Sonnerie:

https://www.phillips.com/article/158023235/when-fp-journe-worked-with-piaget

4113:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/133343?fromSearch=4113

Offshore:

https://www.phillips.com/article/37249232/the-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-offshore-the-man-who-made-it-and-the-watch-that-honours-it

Carl Jung:

https://monochrome-watches.com/a-most-dangerous-watch-company-iwc-and-carl-jung/

IWC 3519:

https://revolutionwatch.com/special-service-the-iwc-porsche-design-ref-3519-amag/

The Most Confusing Broad Arrow:

https://www.casowatches.com/catalogo/seamaster-ref-14755-61/

Roubert-Houdin:

https://www.horloger.net/purchase-sales/mystery-clocks/74-robert-houdin-triple-mystery-clock/

https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/the-enchanting-allure-of-cartiers-mystery-clocks

6062 Cosmograph Ad:

https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2012/03/rolex-cosmograph-moonphase-1957.html#/page/2

5738/1R:

https://www.patek.com/en/collection/golden-ellipse/5738-1r-001

Only Wrist:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/jaegerlecoultre/125546

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jaeger-lecoultre-geophysic-1958

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-past-present-and-future-of-the-rolex-milgauss

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/189354?fromSearch=1019

A longstanding craft which has graced some of the greatest wristwatches made, this episode studies the basics of enamel dials and their application in wristwatches. From historical roots until work being performed today, Erik & Max cover the main techniques of Grand Feu, Cloisonné, Champlevé, Flinqué, and engraved enamel. Nuanced, examples, techniques, and the background needed to begin conversations about the topic of enamel dials are all in here. 

Links Mentioned: 

Peter Henlein Nuremberg Eggs:

https://quillandpad.com/2014/12/15/the-worlds-oldest-watch-a-peter-henlein-mystery-from-1505-solved/

Jean Toutin:

https://www.themagazineantiques.com/article/seventeenth-century-french-enameled-watches-walters-art-gallery/

Miklos Merczel JLC:

https://quillandpad.com/2014/07/23/jaeger-lecoultres-art-of-in-house-enameling/

Daniel Quare:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daniel_Quare

Grand Feu:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-2526-enamel-dial-donze-cadrans

https://hairspring.com/products/5370p-split-seconds-chronograph-platinum-1

https://hairspring.com/products/tourbillon-double-spiral-besancon-certified-white-gold_43241

Cloisonné:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080121/33

https://watchesbysjx.com/2024/04/patek-philippe-world-time-cloisonne-605-hu-de-world-map-pink-gold.html

https://watchesbysjx.com/2016/07/why-are-vintage-cloisonne-enamel-dial-watches-collectible.html

https://www.watchonista.com/articles/events/prix-gaia-2019-suzanne-rohr-craftmanship-creation-category

https://www.europastar.com/the-watch-files/portraits/1004113605-the-multiple-talents-of-enamellist-anita-porchet.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qzPx_hj6tCc

Champlevé:

https://monochrome-watches.com/hands-on-krayon-anywhere-for-only-watch-2021/

https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/selections/watches-with-an-enamel-dial

https://www.patek.com/en/collection/golden-ellipse/5738-51g-001

Flinqué:

https://www.patek.com/en/collection/calatrava/4997-200g-001

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/life-is-a-cabaret-lange-handwerkskunst-tourbillon-that-is

https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/05/hands-on-with-the-voutilainen-28-te-in-enamel.html

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-ii-platinum

Engraved Enamel:

https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/engraved-enamel-why-some-dials-never

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/qin-gan-independent-watchmaker-from-china

Favorites:

2526:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2526-patek-philippe-calatrava-white-gold

6101:

https://le-monde-edmond.com/enamel_rolex_dials/

2523 Gobbi:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/11/patek-philippe-2523-worldtime-most-expensive-watch-sold.html

2699 Constellation:

https://thekeystone.com/products/omega-yellow-gold-constellation-geneva-observatory-cloisonne-watch

3428P:

https://le-monde-edmond.com/patek-3428-platinum-enamel-dial/

1415:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/112503?fromSearch=1415

5231:

https://www.patek.com/en/collection/complications/5231g-001

Only Wrist:

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendar/

https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-sincere-singapore-ref-112-049-limited-edition-64/145895

This week Erik & Max are thrilled to be joined by legend of independent watchmaking Kari Voutilainen. We explore the early days of branching out on his own, what makes him excited in watchmaking, the challenges of being independent, why big brands don’t innovate, and of course how things are going reviving Urban Jürgensen. It was an honor and delight to capture Mr. Voutilainen’s thoughts on watchmaking this point in his career, which we hope you enjoy. 

Links Mentioned: 

Voutilainen’s Early Story:

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/watchmaking-journey-kari-voutilainen

The 2013 V-8R with Power Reserve:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2013/04/baselworld-2013-voutilainen-v-8r.html

Comblémine SA:

https://comblemine.ch

Observatoire:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/brown-guilloche-dial-voutilainen-observatoire-1

Urban Jürgensen Relaunch:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-urban-jurgensen-returns-2025

Pratt Oval Pocket Watch:

https://www.phillips.com/article/149733060/derek-pratts-oval-pocket-watch-voutilainen-urban-jurgensen-phillips-reloaded

Watch Mr Voutilainen is Googling Recently:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/andreas-strehler/190853

Last Watch which Impressed Mr Voutilainen in Person:

https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/zeitwerk/zeitwerk-decimal-strike-honeygold

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-1815-gets-a-34mm-case

The 3 Watch Roll:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/11/breguet-1890-four-minute-tourbillon-sothebys.html

https://quillandpad.com/2016/07/21/let-eat-cake-intriguing-story-marie-antoinette-legendary-breguet-pocket-watch-no-160/

https://watchesbysjx.com/2017/09/the-fake-rivalry-that-created-the-worlds-most-expensive-timepiece.html

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/products/16528-daytona-floating-cosmograph-gold-dial-yellow-gold

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/2915-2-omega-speedmaster-steel

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/longines-13zn-still-collectible

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/885104-01-universal-geneve-space-compax-1

Erik & Max time travel to 2016 to attempt to spend various budgets this week. It’s retroactive bidding, with the best 10k, 50k, and 200k picks all included. From cloissoné Polerouters to Patek bracelets and 30k Resonance, this one was a blast. Plus and Only Wrist that’s relevant if you drive motorcycles for UberEats. It’s worth opening all the tabs linked for this exercise. 

Links Mentioned: 

https://www.watchpro.com/billions-wiped-off-the-value-of-breitling/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/with-rolex-and-cartier-in-another-league-a-deep-dive-on-whos-making-gains-and-whos-feeling-pain-in-t

10K and Under: 

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5993005

https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/100180

https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/quick-study-omega-seamaster-chronographs

https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/important-watches-n09593/lot.52.html

https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/iwc-ref-r-816-ad-lot-302-11

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/99735

https://www.phillips.com/detail/jaeger-lecoultre/98071

50K and Under:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5992999

https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/a-lange-sohne-lot-300-164

https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/important-watches-ge1604/lot.275.html

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6003298

https://www.phillips.com/detail/universal/101404

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6028350

https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/important-watches-ge1604/lot.7.html

200K and Under:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6003385

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6028355

https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/important-watches-n09593/lot.272.html

https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/watches-l16053/lot.140.html

https://www.phillips.com/detail/breguet/97620

https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/97159

Unlimited:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6028459

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/100888

https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/important-watches-ge1604/lot.317.html

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/97683

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/97817

Wildcard:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5976969?ldp_breadcrumb=back

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/101552

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/products/2915-2-omega-speedmaster-steel

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/145-005-ultraman-omega-seamaster-321

Erik & Max venture into the side of the AP back catalogue far too often forgotten and overlooked: non-RO vintage. From the Clover to the 1533 or Star Wheel Repeaters and restomod Cartier, the depth of value that exists in AP’s posterity is immense. If you’ve ever wondered what the first Tuscan ref is, who A l’Emeraude is, or what a Disco Volante has in common with today’s independents—listen in. Plus an only wrist for a Patek AD. 

Links Mentioned: 

5516:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vintage-audemars-piguet-reference-5516-perpetual-calendar

John Shaeffer Collecting Guide:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/buying-selling-collecting-john-shaeffer-repeaters

25881 Explainer:

https://singaporewatchclub.com/blogs/articles/john-shaeffer-ap-s-best-kept-secret

25881 Purple Dial:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/fine-watches-7/repetition-minutes-john-schaeffer-reference-25881

Ceramic-Link Bamboo ref. 66192 & 66172:

https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--cd79969e-bfab-495f-8049-3a18d16e361a/ap-chronicles-image.webp

https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/audemars-piguet-bamboo-ref-66172ba-gold-diamond-set-quartz-wristwatch-24/165533

5072:

https://www.db1983.com/product-page/audemars-piguet-5072st-vzssc-37mm-1955

5503:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/inside-the-archives-of-audemars-piguet

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vintage-vacheron-minute-repeater-at-christies (Scroll Down Here)

831:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/183251?fromSearch=831

Collaboration Work with Cartier:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080515/233 (Erik was Wrong, Henry is in fact American not English!)

https://www.phillips.com/detail/cartier-and-audemars-piguet/221688?fromSearch=audemars%20piguet%20cartier&searchPage=1

1533:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/90520

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/122598

25681PT ‘Clover’:

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/quantieme-perpetuel-clover-asprey

5661 / ref. 25661 Tuscan:

https://amsterdamvintagewatches.com/shop/audemars-piguet-quantieme-perpetuel-tuscan/

25557:

https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/asset/140_carousel16_2v2 (Rightmost)

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches-part-i/reference-25557ba-a-yellow-gold-perpetual-calendar

5548:

https://www.watchbrotherslondon.com/articles/reference-talk-audemars-piguet-quantieme-perpetual-automatique

AP Calibre 2003:

https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/calibre/Calibre-2003

5093BC:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/gubelin-signed-5093bc-audemars-piguet-disco-volante

A l’Emeraude QP:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080424/145

(Which Inspired this https://monochrome-watches.com/collectors-series-nopstar83-audemars-piguet-edward-piguet-ultra-thin-skeleton-perpetual-25734or/)

5740:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5740g-patek-philippe-nautilus-perpetual-calendar

6196P:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-6196p-the-best-calatrava-in-a-generation

5270:

https://hairspring.com/products/5270r-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-pink-gold