Hairspring

This week, the gentlemen behind Petermann Bédat join the show. We cover their early history, what it’s like working at Lange while not speaking German, challenges faced in starting their own brand, philosophy of their manufacture, and how they’re planning for the future. In addition, we discuss both Gaël and Bédat as collectors and lovers of watches and collectors—including their ultimate 3 watch collections and an Only Wrist. A huge thanks to Gaël Petermann & Florian Bédat for joining!

Links Mentioned:

Lange Young Watchmaker Program:

https://press.alange-soehne.com/committed-to-the-next-generation-of-watchmakers/

1967 Deadbeat Auction:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/petermann-bedat/205470

2941 Article:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2023/07/petermann-bedat-reference-2941-split-seconds-chronograph-review.html

1342 with Theo Auffret:

https://www.onlywatch.com/petermann-bedat-auffret-paris

Dominique Renaud:

https://www.dominiquerenaud.com/en/home/

Googling Recently:

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/tank-a-guichets-prive-pink-gold

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/gronefeld-brings-back-its-four-greatest-hits-with-the-new-1941-quadrivium

Last Watch that Floored Them in Person:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-xhevdet-rexhepi-minute-inerte

https://xhevdetrexhepi.com/en

3 Watch Roll:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/209369

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/202611

https://wristaficionado.com/products/rolex-daytona-giraffe-126555tbr-rose-gold-chestnut-brown-diamond-dial-diamond-bezel-2025

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches/reference-2524-1-retailed-by-guebelin-a-pink-gold

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5959r-patek-philippe-split-seconds-monopusher

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-minute-repeater-perpetual-live-pictures-thoughts-and-comparisons

Only Wrist:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/h-moser-and-cie-introduces-the-streamliner-two-hands-in-28mm-and-34mm

https://laurentferrier.ch/collections/classic-origin/products/classic-origin-blue

https://romaingauthier.com/en/news/introducing-the-new-c-by-romain-gauthier-titanium-edition-39.5/

https://www.ming.watch

This is the story of two watchmakers, Daniels & Smith, who kept British independent watchmaking alive prior to the phrase independent existing. This chronicle encompasses Daniel’s story from Army service until pocket watches, fascination with Breguet, the Clutton & automotive connection, selling the Co-Axial, his pocket watches, wristwatches, the story of his first meeting with Smith, Smith’s near-decade attempt to become his pupil, Smith’s history, and a complete catalogue of Smith’s wristwatches so far. Of course, this includes many meandering and many offshoots, as you’ve grown to expect. We hope you enjoy. 

Links Mentioned:

Pocket Watch Two:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/roger-smith/185574

G W Daniels Chronometer:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2017/watches-sale-l17054/lot.119.html

1924 Bentley 3-Litre:

https://rmsothebys.com/auctions/pa26/lots/r0059-1924-bentley-3litre-speed-model-tourer-by-vanden-plas/

Cecil Clutton:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2026/02/cecil-clutton-collector-profile.html

Breguet 3862:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-4278226

The Clutton Pocket Watch:

https://watchesbysjx.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/16-The-first-Daniels-owned-by-Clutton-completed-in-1969.-Image-SJX-compositeAntiquorum.jpg

Edward Hornby:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/george-daniels/NY080121/102

Atwood & Daniels:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/george-daniels-seth-atwood-documentary-roger-smith

Space Traveller I:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/06/george-daniels-space-traveller-i-pocket-watch.html

Space Traveller II:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/08/george-daniels-space-traveller-ii-science-museum.html

Speedmaster Mark 4.5 Co-Axial Prototype:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2013/07/news-omega-co-axial-exhibition-in-singapore-august-23-to-september-1.html

Daniels Own Nautilus Prototype with a Co-Axial (Pictured Halfway Down this Article):

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/worlds-first-wristwatch-co-axial-escapement-london-science-museum-patek

George Daniel Datejust Prototype: 

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/on-the-block-a-customized-rolex-datejust-with-a-george-daniels-co-axial-escapement

Wristwatches:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2018/09/george-daniels-chronograph-wristwatch-tourbillon.html

https://www.phillips.com/detail/george-daniels/174033

Roger in the Pocket Watch Number One Years:

https://cdn.prod.website-files.com/67ae27a1e535f319ac00ecab/689c6d95f8fde73fbfa25703_1990-img-1.webp

Pocket Watch Two:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/roger-smith/185574

Cosigned Millenium:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-part-i-2/millenium-number-01-a-unique-and-historically

The Blue:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/unique-george-daniels-tourbillon-wristwatch-a-collected-man

Roger W Smith Timeline:

https://rwsmithwatches.com/evolution

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/products/3940p-perpetual-calendar-third-series-platinum

https://hairspring.com/products/730-032-1815-tourbillon-pink-gold

This week, the tables have turned. Erik & Max polled you, the audience, for your opinions. Together, we find out what future classics you believe are being made today, how your views and actions in collecting have evolved over the last decade, independents that are your capturing interest, how you track or record your collection, how you’d theoretically build a 300k collection, and your deepest regrets around giving into hype or missing it entirely. This was a fascinating insight into our little group’s deep, sometimes controversial views on collecting. 

Links Mentioned:

Ludacris:

https://www.movado.com/us/en/ludacris-x-bold-quest

Your Future Classics:

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/chronometre-artisans-rose-gold

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/mirage-34-lapis-lazuli-white-gold-1

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-daytona-le-mans-126529ln-review

https://hairspring.com/products/414-028-1815-chronograph-white-gold-1

https://hairspring.com/products/chronograph-black-dial-white-gold

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/vacheron-constantin-cornes-de-vache-for-hodinkee

https://hairspring.com/products/142-055-zeitwerk-lumen-honeygold

https://hairspring.com/products/363-150-odysseus-honeygold

https://hairspring.com/products/sp-one-platinum

Your Independents Likely to Enjoy the Largest Rise Over the Next Decade:

https://simonbrette.com/en/

https://www.berneron.ch

https://www.rexheprexhepi.com

https://rwsmithwatches.com

https://petermann-bedat.com

https://www.auffret-paris.com

https://philippedufour.ch/en/

https://romaingauthier.com

Single Reply Runners Up:

https://www.instagram.com/qingan.official/?hl=en

https://www.bexei.hu

https://naoyahidawatch.com/?lang=en

https://stephanepierre.com

https://astrehler.ch

https://go.davidcandaux.com

https://sopranawatches.com

https://www.ming.watch

Collection Building Discussion:

https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/oakley-watches/

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/reference-2-yellow-gold

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/guillcohe-dial-47101-vacheron-constantin-historiques-chronograph

https://www.analogshift.com/products/bulova-accutron-261-original-cushion-tv-as11348

https://hairspring.com/products/17000-oysterquartz-tropical-purple-pre-cosc-dial-steel

https://hairspring.com/products/6238-pre-daytona-chronograph-black-galvanic-dial-steel-1

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giorgio_Galli_(watchmaker)

https://www.europeanwatch.com/blog/audemars-piguet-25548pt-quantieme-perpetuel-calendar-review

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-daymatic/

https://www.fpjourne.com/en/collection/octa-collection/octa-automatique-lune-havana

https://www.europeanwatch.com/blog/patek-philippe-5101p-10-day-tourbillon-review

https://www.sinn.de/en/watches/556-i.html

https://watchesbysjx.com/2026/08/berneron-quantieme-annuel-review.html

https://www.fratellowatches.com/tbt-longines-conquest-1972-munich/

https://greubelforsey.com/en/collections/balancier/balancier-qm

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/186-0013-omega-equinoxe-reverso

Only Wrist:

https://monochrome-watches.com/introducing-laurent-ferrier-classic-traveller-series-atelier-magnetic-green-hands-on-specs-price/

https://hairspring.com/products/5164a-aquanaut-travel-time-steel

This week Erik & Max are honored to be joined by founder of 37signals, thoughtful collector, and original thinker Jason Fried. While this episode briefly touches on Jason’s path as a collector, it’s spends more time on the philosophy of a meaningful business, knowing what doesn’t matter in design, what mades watches special to love, what defines craft, which watches were the least impressive in the metal, how the ability to sell permanence is linked to looking after your product, and so much more. 

Links Mentioned:

The MIH:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/found-elusive-mih-watch-up-for-grabs

https://www.ablogtowatch.com/mih-watch-review/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-mih-gaia-watch

105.012:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/105-012-65-omega-speedmaster

Steel Lange 1:

https://langepedia.com/stainless-steel-a-lange-sohne/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/lange-one-101026-steel

(We were wrong around this timestamp Lange are at about 7,000 watches annually)

Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar:

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendar-tourbillon/

Inline Patek QP:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-ref-5236p-001-in-line-perpetual-calendar-a-first-for-patek-introducing

90% of Astons are still on the road:

https://www.carthrottle.com/news/90-cent-aston-martin-cars-ever-built-are-still-road

Rapide:

https://www.the-intercooler.com/library/blog/man-maths-aston-martin-rapide/

Lagonda:

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1983-aston-martin-lagonda-3/

Resonance Pisa:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/229536

T10:

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/t10-tourbillon-40mm-platinum

Watch Jason is Googling Often:

https://hairspring.com/products/sbgz005

Watch that Floored in Person:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/740-056-a-lange-sohne-datograph-perpetual-tourbillon-1

3 Watch Roll:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-the-patek-philippe-3670a-a-new-chronograph-in-st

https://hairspring.com/products/701-011-pour-le-merite-tourbillon-pink-gold

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/t10-tourbillon-40mm-platinum

Only Wrist:

https://naoyahidawatch.com/new-release/nh-type-7a/?lang=en

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/heuer-3646-second-execution-autavia

https://hairspring.com/products/239-050-1815-thin-homage-to-fa-lange-honeygold

This is the story of Danish watchmaking’s most storied name, a deep-dive chronicle to help collectors understand the very nuanced and convoluted history of Urban Jürgensen. This includes relevant backstory on Urban himself, a deep dive on Baumberger, Pratt, and the watches they made together—plus a look at what’s happening today under the Rosenfields and Venla with Kari Voutilainen. This episode focuses on wristwatches with particular attention given to the rise of the Pratt-Baumberger era, noting each reference in detail with points for collectors to come away from having learned something new: like how to take over Iceland. 

Links Mentioned:

Some Guides Worth Reading:

https://revolutionwatch.com/a-retrospective-the-legacy-of-urban-jurgensen/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/urban-jurgensen-then-and-now

19th-Century Pocket Watch:

https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/urban-jurgensen-lot-299-87

Jules Jürgensen Pocket Watch Deconstruction:

https://www.thenakedwatchmaker.com/deconstruction-jules-jurgensen

Baumberger:

https://quillandpad.com/2020/05/20/tribute-to-peter-baumberger-1939-2010-rip-you-complete-and-utter-bastard/

https://watchesbysjx.com/2020/05/peter-baumberger-urban-jurgensen-helmut-crott.html

Pratt:

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/derek-pratt-the-forgotten-watchmaker

https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/getting-to-know-derek-pratt-the-watchmakers

https://quillandpad.com/2018/07/14/the-life-and-times-of-legendary-independent-watchmaker-derek-pratt-archive/

H4:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/09/john-harrison-marine-chronometer-h4-diamond-pallets.html

The Oval:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2024/11/urban-jurgensen-derek-pratt-oval-pocket-watch.html

https://www.phillips.com/detail/derek-pratt-for-urban-jurgensen/206983

https://www.phillips.com/article/149733060/derek-pratts-oval-pocket-watch-voutilainen-urban-jurgensen-phillips-reloaded

Wristwatches:

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/urban-jurgensen-wristwatches

Ref 1:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/urban-jurgensen-reference-1

Ref 2:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/urban-jurgensen/213445

Ref 3:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/urban-jurgensen/228974

Ref 5: 

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/reference-5-platinum

Ref 8:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/urban-jurgensen-reference-8

Repeater Tourbillon:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/urban-jurgensen/228973

Great Podcast with Dr Helmut Crott:

https://collectability.com/podcasts/interview-with-leading-horological-expert-and-pioneer-dr-helmut-crott/

Detent Escapement:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/urban-jurgensen/145819

Alfred:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/urban-jurgensen-the-alfred-hands-on

The One:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/urban-jurgensen-one-collection-introducing

Urban Jürgensen Revival:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-urban-jurgensen-returns-2025

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-urban-jurgensen-uj-1

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/3755pt-perpetual-calendar-tourbillon-skeleton-platinum

https://hairspring.com/products/25668pt-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum

Now 100 episodes in, this episode covers some reflections and lessons learned. This is all ahead of a full-sized Q&A with questions ranging from a two-watch 100k collection, time traveling to give yourself advice, market direction, non-indie brands carrying the torch for watchmaking, and many other topics. Plus, a fantastic Only Wrist for a linebacker.

Links Mentioned:

Total Unbiased FP Journe Market Update:

https://www.phillips.com/article/what-now-for-f-p-journe-at-auction-phillips-new-york-june-2026

Rolex + Tudor:

https://hairspring.com/products/9401-0-marine-nationale-submariner-steel

https://hairspring.com/products/7928-eagle-beak-gilt-dial-submariner-steel

https://hairspring.com/products/8171-padellone-yellow-gold_43285

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-part-i/daytona-john-player-special-reference-6241-a

JDN:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/jean-daniel-nicolas-two-minute-tourbillon

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/early-production-c187-daniel-roth-tourbillon-double-face

Modern Patina: 

https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/165511

https://www.fratellowatches.com/two-months-of-living-with-the-tudor-black-bay-fifty-eight-silver/

Vintage up to 5K:

https://www.rescapement.com/blog/for-your-reference-rolex-air-king-reference-5500

https://www.strictlyvintagewatches.com/the-rolex-oyster-perpetual-reference-1018

https://universalgenevepolerouter.com/articles/

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/168-017-linen-dial-omega-constellation-date

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/mk1-enicar-sherpa-jet-gmt

Winnerl (Bernhard Zwinz):

https://hairspring.com/blogs/journal/striking-a-delicate-balance-tradition-and-innovation-in-modern-watchmaking-with-bernhard-zwinz-of-winnerl

Some Contemporary Winners:

https://hairspring.com/products/4300v-overseas-ultra-thin-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-white-gold

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-chopard-luc-strike-one-titanium

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-blancpain-grande-double-sonnerie

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-breguet-classique-7225

https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/12/breguet-experimentale-1-magnetic-constant-force-escapement.html

Pre-Daytona vs Daytona:

https://hairspring.com/products/6238-pre-daytona-chronograph-black-galvanic-dial-steel-1

https://hairspring.com/products/daytona-steel

https://hairspring.com/products/6264-paul-newman-daytona-steel

Independents:

https://hairspring.com/products/mirage-38-sienna-yellow-gold-2

https://watchesbysjx.com/2020/11/petermann-bedat-1967-deadbeat-seconds-review.html

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-petermann-bedat-1825

https://watchesbysjx.com/2018/04/hands-on-with-the-voutilainen-regulator-dial-decimal-repeater-piece-unique.html

2-Collection:

https://hairspring.com/products/2526j-calatrava-frecerro-dial-yellow-gold

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/7159-0-tudor-monte-carlo

https://hairspring.com/products/403-035-datograph-first-generation-platinum

https://hairspring.com/products/43032-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum

Jay-Z:

https://wristcheck.com/us/discover/culturecheck/inside-jay-zs-watch-collection

Bankrupt Indies:

https://robbreport.com/style/watch-collector/hyt-files-for-bankruptcy-1234599628/

https://watchesbysjx.com/2020/02/rj-romain-jerome-bankrupt.html

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/brief-history-urban-jurgensen

Only Wrist:

https://mrwatchley.com/collections/watches/products/pascal-coyon-series-2-unique-piece-enamel-dial-with-breguet-numerals

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/cartier-tortue-minute-repeater-2512c-white-gold

From things that came before the 2215 Chronometer to 43040s and repeaters, this episode covers all the quirky Vacheron Constantins that normally aren’t discussed—including a semantics argument of what is and isn’t a Cornes de Vache. If the more alternative side of VC has ever called to you, here is a broad overview of some areas that may be worth attention. 

Links Mentioned:

Keith Mitchell TW:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/keith-mitchell-talking-watches

333:

https://www.iconeek.com/auction-lot/vacheron-constantin-333-automatic-333-re_53e43b99be

2045:

https://www.stephaniewindsor.com/products/vacheron-constantin

https://www.bonhams.com/auction/21934/lot/195/vacheron-constantin-a-fine-18ct-white-gold-bracelet-watch-with-mint-green-dial-made-for-the-libyan-market-ref2045-circa-1976/

4072:

https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/vacheron-constantin-reference-4072

https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/127999

4178:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/159992

49002:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/49002-vacheron-constantin-les-historiques-chronograph-in-pt

43040:

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/vacheron-constantin-jump-hour-43040-yellow-gold-1

6087:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/90901

4764 ‘Cioccolatone’:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/90901

6562:

https://thekeystone.com/products/vacheron-constantin-steel-automatic-watch-ref-6562

6111:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/223633

2215:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2215-vacheron-constantin-royal-chronometer-1

https://www.hodinkee.com/magazine/ronnie-fieg

43031:

https://hairspring.com/products/43031-perpetual-calendar-guilloche-dial-platinum

43032:

https://hairspring.com/products/43032-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum

Don Pancho:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/125233

4261:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2021/03/vacheron-constantin-minute-repeater-4261-les-collectionneurs.html

6448:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/176180

‘Renaissance’:

https://thekeystone.com/products/vacheron-constantin-platinum-renaissance-ref-92084-incoming?srsltid=AfmBOoqbwD5TY11FkcNSn7gSE0KMsg9fakqtpPWifw1UEGgq1vTale2U

43050:

https://hairspring.com/products/43050-mercator-yellow-gold

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/enamel-taiwan-dial-43050-vacheron-constantin-mercator

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6394747

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5758993

Harmony:

https://rarist.pl/en/products/harmony-71201-saudi-arabia

Serpenti:

https://thekeystone.com/products/vacheron-constantin-tubogas-snake-watch-retailed-by-bulgari

30030:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/important-watches-9/reference-30030-a-pink-gold-skeletonized-minute

Only Wrist:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/229790

https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/226230

Over the last five years, independent watchmaking has blossomed. This week, Erik & Max make an introduction to some names that have begun in recent years and are off to a promising start. Conversations include the basic framework and some thoughts on Clegeur, Pierre, Phimphrachanh, Birchall, Claeys, the Bernhards, Hazemann & Monnin, Lass, FaH, Mineroci, and even Bonniksen. 

Cleguer:

https://cleguer.com/en-gb

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cleguer-debuts-the-inspiration-one-with-a-proprietary-innate-escapement

https://watchesbysjx.com/2026/05/cleguer-inspiration-one-review.html

https://revolutionwatch.com/mathieu-cleguer-makes-his-debut-with-the-inspiration-one-souscription/

Stéphane Pierre:

https://stephanepierre.com

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-stephane-pierre-limpetrant

https://watchesbysjx.com/2026/04/stephane-pierre-l-impetrant.html

Dann Phimphrachanh:

https://www.instagram.com/dann.phimphrachanh/?hl=en

https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/08/dann-phimphrachanh-profile.html

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/an-afternoon-with-dann-phimphrachanh

https://sfwatchlover.substack.com/p/an-exclusive-profile-of-dann-phimphrachanh

Alan Birchall:

https://www.a-birchall.com

https://monochrome-watches.com/portrait-alan-birchall-independent-watchmaker-piece-d-essai-no-00-artisanal-watchmaking/

https://www.isochrono.com/p/inside-tajimi-watching-a-handmade

Kallinich Claeys:

https://www.kallinichclaeys.com/en

https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/a-visit-to-glashuttes-newest-independent

L’Atelier Bernhard:

https://www.instagram.com/l_atelier_bernard/?hl=en

https://monochrome-watches.com/portrait-atelier-bernard-the-owl-bernard-van-ormelingen-bernard-braboretz-independent-watchmaking-duplex-escapement-interview/

https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/12/latelier-bernard-owl-duplex.html

Hazemann & Monnin:

https://hazemann-monnin.ch/en/index.html

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/interview-hazemann-and-monnin

Christian Lass:

https://www.instagram.com/christian_lass/

https://christianlass.dk

Fam al Hut:

https://www.famalhut.com/en/index.html

Mineroci:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/one-to-watch-mineroci

Bonniksen Le Carrousel:

https://monochrome-watches.com/announcing-naissance-une-montre-4-carrousel-project-bonniksen-aeon-foundation-news/

Only Wrist:

http://www.hajimeasaoka.com/timepieces_chrinograph_EN.html

https://monochrome-watches.com/just-because-logan-kuan-rao-double-detent-escapement-prototype-unique-piece-chinese-indepenent-watchmaker/

https://hairspring.com/products/701-011-pour-le-merite-tourbillon-pink-gold

https://thekeystone.com/products/audemars-piguet-platinum-jump-hour-minute-repeater-watch-ref-25723

While prior episodes have covered your hot takes, this week’s discussion sees Erik & Max dive into a few controversial views of their own. From undisclosed ebauches in independent work today to silicon going widespread, or moonphase accuracy across to 6538s, there’s a lot to unpack here. 

University of Utah Hot on Journe?:

https://shorturl.at/cSCXN

6538 at Sotheby’s:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches/reference-5510-big-crown-submariner-a-stainless

Petermann Bédat 2941:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2023/07/petermann-bedat-reference-2941-split-seconds-chronograph-review.html

Pinaud Chronograph:

https://www.sylvain-pinaud.com/the-monopoussoir-chronograph/

LeComte:

https://monochrome-watches.com/florent-lecomte-a-recently-discovered-gem-of-independent-watchmaking/

A bit on Akrivia and MHC/BNB Concept:

https://revolutionwatch.com/the-three-kings-of-independent-watchmaking/

Famous Lange Service 17K Bill:

https://www.reddit.com/r/ALangeSohne/comments/1gmdmha/17k_service_bill/

3970:

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/3970ep-small-hallmark-second-series-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-platinum

3940:

https://hairspring.com/products/3940p-perpetual-calendar-third-series-platinum

Auctions Primer:

https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/buying-watch-auction-guide

881101/01 Clapton:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/881101-01-clapton-universal-geneve-tri-compax

Patek’s March to Silicon:

https://collectability.com/learn/patek-philippe-advanced-research-made-simple/

Rolex Silicon:

https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-dynapulse-escapement-in-depth-technical-explanation-5hz-calibre-7135-syloxi-hairspring-review/

A Great Moonphase Read:

https://jackforster.substack.com/p/challenge-to-watchmakers-whos-up

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/products/h11-central-balance-blue-dial-pink-gold

https://hairspring.com/products/insight-micro-rotor-titanium

https://hairspring.com/products/2526j-calatrava-frecerro-dial-yellow-gold

https://le-monde-edmond.com/patek-3428-platinum-enamel-dial/

This month’s Q&A went all over the map. Erik & Max answer the Ferrari Luce equivalent from the Holy Trinity, market updates, if Cartier hype has passed, the one watch collection, and the greatest neo-vintage values today. 

Links Mentioned: 

Arkansas:

https://crystalbridges.org

6105G:

https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/6105g-001

5170:

https://hairspring.com/products/chronograph-black-dial-white-gold

5172:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5172g-hand-wound-chronograph-photos

Tamara Ralph:

https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch/ap-x-tamara-ralph.html

15202:

https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak/15202ST.OO.1240ST.01.A.html

VC 56:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-fiftysix-self-winding

VC Quai de L’Île:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-quai-de-lile-in-steel

Cabaret:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-cabaret-tourbillon-in-honeygold

Saxonia:

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-saxonia/

NYC Watch Guy’s Analysis:

https://medium.com/@nycwatchguys/the-bull-case-for-watches-9a56450baf1e

@Niccoloy:

https://www.instagram.com/niccoloy/

@Young.Brando:

https://www.instagram.com/young.brando/

WatchCharts (Hit Max Timeline):

https://watchcharts.com/watches/indexes?utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email

5251 Portofino:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5251-iwc-portofino-moonphase

UJ:

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/reference-8-yellow-gold

5020:

https://www.phillips.com/article/133156594/patek-philippe-5020-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-guide

John Shaeffer:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/205999

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/201306

Tank Monopoussoir:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/cartier-cpcp-2846-tank-monopoussoir

Hamatic:

https://monochrome-watches.com/hands-on-moritz-grossmann-hamatic-argente-pendulum-winding-calibre-106-saxony-glashutte-rose-gold-specs-price-review/

1463:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/122018

5070: 

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/saatchi-salmon-dial-5070g-014-patek-philippe-chronograph

PLM:

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-tourbillon-pour-le-merite/

1675:

https://hairspring.com/products/1675-gilt-exclamation-dial-gmt-master-steel

Odysseus:

https://hairspring.com/products/363-179-odysseus-steel

Deadbeat Seconds:

https://thedeadbeatseconds.substack.com

Grantland:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grantland

Look at my *Expletive* Red Trousers:

https://lookatmyfuckingredtrousers.blogspot.com

1815 Thin Honey:

https://hairspring.com/products/239-050-1815-thin-homage-to-fa-lange-honey-gold

5740:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5740g-patek-philippe-nautilus-perpetual-calendar

5270:

https://hairspring.com/products/5270r

5374:

https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/5374g-001

Independent Picks:

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/chronometre-artisans

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/mirage-38-prussian-blue-white-gold-1

https://www.phillips.com/detail/petermann-bedat/205470

2RE:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/ferdinand-berthoud-fb-2re-1

Handmade:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/01/greubel-forsey-hand-made-1-review.html

6238:

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/6238-pre-daytona-chronograph-black-galvanic-dial-steel-1

Sports Betting:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584544

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584458

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/231677

https://www.phillips.com/detail/auffret-paris/231274

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches-ge2601/chronometre-bleu-reference-cb-a-tantalum

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584401

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/products/sport-auto-blue-titanium

https://hairspring.com/products/363-179-odysseus-steel

https://hairspring.com/products/1655-explorer-ii-steel