Chances are, you won’t agree with the ideas we’re discussing this week. And that’s the whole point. This week, Erik & Max ask, ‘What do you believe that almost no on else in watches seems to?” Discussion leads to the Fast & Furious, Triple Calendars, Dufour, Lange QPs, and Instagram. Plus, what should a very successful furniture maker wear? 

Links Mentioned:

LUC XPS:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/chopard-brings-a-touch-of-heritage-to-the-luc-xps-with-a-new-forest-green-sector-dial

Breguet Guide by Tahoma:

https://www.tahomawatches.com/read/collectors-guide-to-early-breguet

Wellendorff Breguet:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2019/dubai-watches-db1901/lot.110.html

Profane Watches:

https://www.rescapement.com/blog/three-times-using-the-f-word-made-for-a-great-fing-watch

F&F Family (I couldn’t find Max’s Rolex):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQuc7wfO16Q

25447 Carrera:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2547s-heuer-carrera-12-dato

Oris pointer:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/oris-brings-back-the-bronze-for-its-latest-pointer-date-limited-edition

5726 (Max’s Fav):

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5726a-patek-philippe-annual-calendar

3712:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5726a-patek-philippe-annual-calendar

Dufour Backlash:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CuHdd-XrBAK/

345.056:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/salmon-dial-345-056-a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendar

310.225:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/310-225-a-lange-sohne-langematik-perpetual-wellendorff-bracelet

Only Wrist:

https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-geneva-edit/audemars-piguet-yellow-gold-perpetual-calendar-moon-phases-square-282/167335

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080117/34

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/walser-wald-dial-591-patek-philippe-chronograph-pink-gold

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/1579-spider-lug-patek-philippe-chronograph

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/tropical-dial-6265-rolex-daytona

There are small mistakes and then there is today’s topic: true faux pas. From interactions with other collectors to the way manufactures design their watches, this week is all about those social blunders. Obviously, this episode is mostly Erik & Max moaning and groaning, but there are one or two deeper points worth contemplating. In addition, the second topic at hand: if we were each to be mono-brand collectors, how would we each go about it?

Links Mentioned:

JPH Obituary: 

https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/03/obituary-jean-pierre-hagmann.html

Lange Triple Split:

https://monochrome-watches.com/a-lange-sohne-triple-split-in-pink-gold-and-blue-review-specs-price/

Steel Spring Bars in Precious Cases:

https://www.watchprosite.com/a.-lange-and-söhne/steel-spring-bars-eroding-away-the-lug-holes-/10.1546036.15123976/

Types of Guilloché:

https://www.screwdowncrown.com/p/guilloche-deception-atelier-wen-revolution

Gianni Agnelli:

https://italianwatchspotter.com/gianni-agnellis-watch-collection-over-the-cuff/?lang=en

Polerouter Window:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/204612-1-universal-geneve-polerouter-date

Home Plate:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/black-dial-7032-tudor-monte-carlo-home-plate

Lange 1 Perpetual:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/salmon-dial-345-056-a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendar

Type XX:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-breguet-type-xx-type-20

Going Monobrand:

Max:

V72:

https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/valjoux-lecoultre-us-chronograph-guide

Geophysic:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/e168-jaeger-lecoultre-geophysic

DSA History:

https://www.watchprosite.com/jaeger-lecoultre/jaeger-lecoultre-tribute-to-deep-sea-alarm-full-hands-on-review-sihh-2011-/2.681148.4348178/

Erik:

Lange Picks:

https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/saxonia/datograph-perpetual-tourbillon-honeygold-lumen

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-chrongraph

(Correction: chronograph, not split, obvs)

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-1815/lange-tourbillon-pour-le-merite/

Omega:

https://hairspring.com/products/2915-2-speedmaster-steel

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/omega-ploprof-in-depth

https://www.phillips.com/detail/OMEGA/CH080217/182

Only Wrist:

4072:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/HK080422/8025

4178:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/CH080223/184

CdV:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/NY080222/100

90s QP Skeletons:

https://hairspring.com/products/43032-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum

https://hairspring.com/products/25668pt-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum

This week is all about the Rolex that moved the brand from tool watches to luxury: the Day-Date. We cover the beginnings, chronology, famous wearers, advertising, interesting dials, and everything down to the Oysterquartz Perpetual Calendar (you read that right). It’s a more granular episode than most, but if you’ve been looking to get up to speed with the President, here’s a quick download. Plus, what should a successful private mountaineering guide spring for at 75k?

Links Mentioned:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/jean-claude-killy-6236-rolex-datocompax

https://hairspring.com/products/8171-padellone-yellow-gold_43285

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/stelline-dial-6062-rolex-triple-calendar-moonphase

6510:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/HK080116/293

6511:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080115/40

Steel Prototype:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6394633

Eisenhower Datejust at Auction:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ikes-rolex-doesnt-sell-rr-auction

Kennedy Omega:

https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/chronicle/1960-to-a-future-president

Kennedy Day-Date:

https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=115058

https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2008/07/history-of-rolex-president-part-9.html#gsc.tab=0

LBJ:

https://www.forbes.com/sites/msolomon/2016/10/04/a-brief-history-of-the-rolex-president-watch/

The 1803 (Just a Great Example of the Breed):

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/doorstop-dial-1803-rolex-day-date-pink-gold

1803 Castro (Lol at the ‘Freedom Fighter’ title on the Monochrome article):

https://monochrome-watches.com/fidel-castro-1926-2016-sportsman-freedom-fighter-rolex-wearer/

https://quillandpad.com/2019/02/27/wrist-watching-fidel-castro-and-his-gold-rolex-submariner/

Brezhnev:

https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2011/12/rolex-communists-leonid-brezhnev-and.html#gsc.tab=0

Saddam Hussein:

https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2019/09/rolex-tool-watching-middle-east-rolex.html#gsc.tab=0

Stella:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/burl-wood-dial-18039-rolex-day-date

Stone:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/bloodstone-dial-18239-rolex-day-date

Sequoia Wood:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/sequoia-wood-dial-1803-rolex-day-date

Burl/Birch:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/burl-wood-dial-18039-rolex-day-date

Khanjar:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/khanjar-rolex-day-date-1803-in-blue-wg

Rolex 1530:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/1530-rolex-oyster-perpetual-date-4

Oysterquartz:

https://hairspring.com/products/17000-oysterquartz-tropical-purple-pre-cosc-dial-steel

Oysterquartz Day-Date:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/birchwood-dial-19018-rolex-oysterquartz-day-date

Oysterquartz QP:

https://revolutionwatch.com/rare-finds-rolex-perpetual-calendar-oysterquartz/

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/well-preserved-black-16570-rolex-explorer-ii

https://hairspring.com/products/25730st-royal-oak-dual-time-steel

Dual Time Everest:

https://hairspring.com/products/7910v-everest-overseas-dual-time-titanium

Chronograph:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/everest-vacheron-constantin-overseas-chronograph

6542:

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/6542-gmt-master-steel

Day-Date Ad that Doesn’t Track:

https://www.adpatina.com/products/1969-rolex-day-date-ref-1803-taming-oil-well-fires-advertisement

Auctions aren’t new, not even close. And, if we’re honest, we could’ve played history better. Today, Erik & Max have given themselves a second chance to do so, going back through auctions of the last five years and picking out favorites in the 0-10K, 10-100K, and 100K+ hammer price brackets, respectively. There were so many great buys we all missed, and lessons to be learned from them. 

Links Mentioned:

0-10K:

VC 43031:

https://www.cambiaste.com/uk/auction-0453/vacheron-and-constantin-fine-yellow-gold-wrist-1-203095

UG 22541 Recent Christies Sale:

https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-6456808

UG 22541 First Phillips Sale:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/universal/CH080515/138

The Omega ‘Smiling’ Speedymoon: 

https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/CH080515/106

Speedymoon Guide:

OmegaSpeedyMoon.com

The Holy Grail:

https://www.omegaholygrail.com

Max Playing Liberace:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/important-watches-9/a-yellow-gold-bracelet-watch-circa-1940

10-100K:

Heuer Sunray DX Carrera:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/fine-watches-9/reference-3647-carrera-sunray-dx-a-stainless-steel

Heuer Cobra Carrera:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/shelby-cobra-dial-3147n-heuer-carrera-dato-12

Patek Philippe 2577:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2019/important-watches-ge1904/lot.458.html

Stelline 6098 Rolex With Grummann Engraving:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6515299

Possibly-Dubius 16550 Explorer II ‘Prototype’ Blue Nipple Dial:

https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-16550-explorer-ii-lot-356-252

AP 25657 Tuscan Dial:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/HK080122/938

100K+:

Rolex 6239 PN:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6515276

Rolex 6238 Gloss Gilt 14k First Sale:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080117/91?fromSearch=pre-daytona

Rolex 6238 Gloss Gilt 14k Second Sale:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/HK080319/906

Patek Philippe Pink on Pink 1518:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/important-watches-4/reference-1518-a-pink-gold-perpetual-calendar

RWS II:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/roger-smith/NY080123/12

FPJ Resonance Souscription 004:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/NY080120/102

Patek Philippe 3428 Platinum:

https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-patek-philippe-an-extremely-fine-and-rare-4982656/

Only Wrist:

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/datograph-collectors-guide

https://hairspring.com/products/401-026-1815-chronograph-first-generation-white-gold

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/ulysse-nardin-monopusher-386-88

https://hairspring.com/products/43032-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum

https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange1/lange-1a-112-021/

Yes, it’s Q&A time again. You asked (in a big way!), we answer. All the insane questions you asked us and more. This round includes crucial questions such as TR900 vs 3970, the greatest 1016 variant, our favored vintage and modern Patek Philippes of all time, independent divers (where’d they go?), views on Glashütte Original.  

Links Mentioned:

Glashütte Original:

https://www.glashuette-original.com/en/

5711:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-collectors-guide-to-the-patek-philippe-nautilus-5711

5204:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5204-title-here-live-pics

VC 1921:

https://www.fratellowatches.com/vacheron-constantin-historiques-american-1921-a-very-pleasant-platinum-surprise/

Greatest 1016:

https://www.ssongwatches.com/products/rolex-explorer-ref-1016-gilt-exclamation

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/honeycomb-dial-6350-rolex-explorer

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/6429-commando-rolex-oyster

Independent Divers:

https://www.mbandf.com/machines/mbf-machines/horological-machines/hm7

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/de-bethune-db28gs-grand-bleu-hands-on

3970 v TR900:

https://hairspring.com/products/3970ep-second-series-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-platinum_42658

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/us-navy-tornek-rayville-tr-900

79290ST:

https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/royal-oak-offshore-79290

Chanel by Romain Gauthier:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/chanel-monsieur-de-chanel-jump-hour

The Most Beautiful Gallet Ever:

https://hairspring.com/products/snow-white-multichron-12-steel

1-2 Punch Collection:

Max:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/gilt-dial-1016-rolex-explorer

https://hairspring.com/blogs/journal/timekeeping-beyond-earth-astronauts-and-their-speedmasters

Erik:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/tropical-meters-first-5513-rolex-submariner

https://hairspring.com/products/401-026-1815-chronograph-first-generation-white-gold

Seiko Golf:

https://www.thetokeiclub.jp/product-page/seiko-cronos-golf-13074-in-full-set

Gilbert Albert:

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/collector-guide-asymmetrical-watches

47101:

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/collector-guide-asymmetrical-watches

Oysterquartz:

https://hairspring.com/products/17000-oysterquartz-tropical-purple-pre-cosc-dial-steel

Roger Dubuis QP:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/h37-roger-dubuis-hommage-perpetual-calendar

Fav Vintage/Modern Patek Ever:

Vintage:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-patek-philippe-reference-2497-part-1

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080322/114

https://davideparmegiani.ch/watch/patek-philippe-1526-3/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/eric-claptons-patek-philippe-2499

Modern:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2016/05/a-detailed-look-at-eric-claptons-one-of-a-kind-patek-philippe-ref-5004p.html

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2022/the-international-connoisseur-jewels-and-watches/reference-5970g-019-a-white-gold-perpetual

https://www.fratellowatches.com/patek-philippe-5164a-aquanaut-travel-time/

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5374p-patek-philippe-minute-repeater-perpetual-calendar

Neo-VC:

https://hairspring.com/products/47100-chronograph-skeleton-yellow-gold

https://hairspring.com/products/43032-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/semainier-47052-vacheron-constantin-triple-calendar-white-gold

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/salmon-dial-49005-vacheron-constantin-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-platinum

Latest Wearers:

https://www.instagram.com/p/C_a_9QCOQtg/

https://www.fpjourne.com/en/collection/classique-collection/chronometre-souverain-havana

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/425-050-a-lange-sohne-1815-rattrapante-honeygold

https://hairspring.com/products/octa-calendrier-pink-gold

https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/patek-philippe-ref-5004r-rare-perpetual-calendar-split-seconds-101/115997

In Part 2 of the series, Erik & Max turn their eye to the lesser discussed watchmakers alive and operating today. It’s not just independents, but it’s mostly independents. Perhaps not those you may have guessed, however. From Hazemann & Monnin to AdC, Kuan Rao, and Jean-Batiste Voit, it’s all here. Plus, what should a nightclub owner retiring to the Spanish countryside to make wine sport? And a few thoughts on this latest steel 1518. 

Links Mentioned:

1518 Steel:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/monaco-legend-group-patek-steel-1518

Morgan Aeromax:

https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/2009-morgan-aeromax

Hajime Asaoka:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-with-the-hajime-asaoka-tourbillon-1-high-end-independent-watchmaking-from-tokyo-japan

https://www.fratellowatches.com/hajime-asaokas-new-tourbillon-noir-reasserts-the-independent-watchmakers-art-deco-style/

Hazemann & Monnin: 

https://quillandpad.com/2023/02/24/victor-monnin-and-alexander-hazemanns-school-watches-two-talented-next-generation-watchmakers-to-look-out-for/

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/interview-hazemann-and-monnin

Urban Jürgensen Alfred:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/urban-jurgensen-the-alfred-hands-on

P8 with Detent:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/urban-jurgensen/CH080320/259

Modern UJ Under Kari with P4:

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/urban-jurgensen/1140-brown-dial-pink-gold/

Atelier de Chronométrie:

https://www.atelierdechronometrie.com

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/atelier-de-chronometrie-salonqp-introducing

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/story-of-adc

Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-antimagnetique-for-only-watch

Kuan Rao, Logan:

https://monochrome-watches.com/interview-independent-watchmaker-chinese-china-logan-kuan-rao-orca-iceberg-wuwei-equal-push-escapement/

(Frank Gehry Buildings, an Aside):

https://www.architecturaldigest.com/gallery/best-of-frank-gehry-slideshow

Theo Auffret:

Jean-Batiste Voit Apprentice:

https://www.ablogtowatch.com/j-b-viot-in-paris-watch/

Theo Auffret Works:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-theo-auffret-tourbillon

https://www.instagram.com/auffret_paris/?hl=en

https://monochrome-watches.com/introducing-the-tourbillon-grand-sport-is-the-stunning-follow-up-to-theo-auffrets-break-out-piece-specs-price/

Only Wrist:

https://onlineonly.christies.com.cn/s/watches-online-geneva-edit/patek-philippe-steel-calatrava-ref-437-393/149927

https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/5402

Wristwatches have been around awhile. And, in that time, a great many names haves have risen and then fallen. This week, Erik & Max discuss some of the great now-defunct watchmakers from years gone by, as well as some of their better works. And we really mean unknown. From a Tiffany-Only signed retailer calendar with a Patek calibre, to L. Leroy & Cie, where to find a JCK-half-off, or even Beyner Grimm, well, that's this week. Plus, if you're a Swiss cyclist looking for serious watchmaking, where to go?

Links Mentioned:

The Beyner Grimm Prototype:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/andre-beyner-and-maurice-grimm/CH080116/200

Full Story on it In Context:

https://www.watchbrotherslondon.com/articles/reference-talk-audemars-piguet-ultra-thin-tourbillon-ref-25643-and-25656-selfwinding

Lip Genève:

https://hairspring.com/finds/lip-signed-blancpain-fifty-fathoms/

‘Paul Newman’:

https://hairspring.com/finds/paul-newman-lip-geneve-830-chronograph/

‘Carrera’:

https://hairspring.com/finds/lip-geneve-reverse-panda-carrera-chronograph/

7730 Diving Chronograph:

https://hairspring.com/finds/lip-geneve-valjoux-7730-diving-chronograph/

‘Alarme’ (Memovox-like thing):

https://hairspring.com/finds/lip-geneve-valjoux-7730-diving-chronograph/

Lip Mach 2000:

https://www.analogshift.com/products/lip-mach-2000-dark-master-chronograph

L. Leroy & Cie:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/leroy/CH080515/249

https://benjaminmarcello.nl/product/l-leroy-cie-18k-yellow-gold-circa-1930s/

Gruen Ocean Chief:

https://hairspring.com/finds/50s-gruen-precision-ocean-chief/

Benrus Sky Chief:

https://www.fratellowatches.com/tbt-benrus-sky-chief-chronograph/

Record Genève:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/record/CH080515/228

The Live Reaction One:

https://www.thewatchboutique.com/en/product/record-geneve-chronograph-calendar/

Bimetal Barilotto:

https://hairspring.com/finds/rolex-3525-barilotto-in-pink-gold-steel-with-champagne-dial/

Glycine Airman:

https://www.glycine-watch.ch/history

https://www.fratellowatches.com/tbt-glycine-airman-special/

Ecole Watches:

‘JCK’ Technicum Neuchâtelois Ecole D’Horlogerie Triple Calendar:

https://hairspring.com/finds/technicum-neuchatelois-ecole-dhorlogerie-triple-calendar-chronograph/

One I haven’t covered that I love:

https://www.wristicons.com/ecole-horlogerie-le-locle-observatory-chronometer.html

‘Retailer’Watches:

Tiffany:

https://www.instagram.com/p/DBg8rLgu8b5/

Gubelin:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/gubelin/HK080118/997

Astrua:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/universal/CH080515/238

Kelek Chronograph:

https://www.josephbonnie.com/en/product/chronographe-kelek-vintage-watch/

Kelek Yachting:

For Stars and Stripes the Only Listing from Old Hodinkee was Deleted:

https://bulangandsons.com/products/kelek-yachting-chronograph-1960s-w1529

Seaboard-Yacht:

https://bulangandsons.com/products/kelek-yachting-chronograph-1960s-w1529

Mathey-Tissot Racing Dial:

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/mathey-tissot/valjoux-72-chronograph-racing-dial-steel/

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/laurent-ferrier/sport-auto-blue-titanium/

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/fp-journe/elegante-48-titanium/

https://www.romaingauthier.com/freedom/c-romain-gauthier/titanium-edition-six

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/ressence/type-1-slim-hod3-titanium/

It’s start, stop, reset this week, as Erik & Max explore the ins and outs chronographs. The covers the Speedmasters we should all be talking about but aren’t, the true cost and impressiveness of independent chronographs, and what’s going on with the Le Mans. 

Greubel Hand Made 2:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-greubel-forsey-hand-made-2

Speedmaster Intro:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/understanding-the-omega-speedmaster-professional

2915:

https://speedmaster101.com/2915-2/

2998:

https://hairspring.com/finds/2998-2-straight-lug-dark-brown-omega-speedmaster/

145.022 ‘Apollo Soyuz’:

https://www.watchfid.com/watch/omega-speedmaster-145-022-apollo-soyuz/

Apollo Soyuz 35th:

https://hairspring.com/finds/omega-speedmaster-apollo-soyuz-35th-anniversary/

BA 345.0802:

https://hairspring.com/finds/ba-345-0802-omega-speedmaster-2/

Soleil Ed White:

https://hairspring.com/finds/soleil-blue-metallic-dial-105-003-65-omega-speedmaster/

Grey 2998:

https://hairspring.com/finds/grey-dial-2998-5-omega-speedmaster/

Independents:

MB&F Sequential:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2022/06/mbf-legacy-machine-sequential-evo

Grönefeld Grönograaf:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-gronefeld-1941-gronograaf-the-first-ever-chronograph-from-the-gronefeld-brothers

FP Journe:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2022/02/guide-fp-journe-octa-chronographe-watch4moi

https://watchesbysjx.com/2023/04/in-depth-fp-journe-centigraphe-movement

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/fp-journe/chronographe-monopoussoir-rattrapante-red-gold/

Le Mans:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/just-because-two-rolex-le-mans-daytona

EVA-Worn Speedmaster:

https://hairspring.com/finds/space-eva-worn-omega-speedmaster-from-gennady-padalka/

Only Wrist:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-mbandf-lm-sequential-flyback

https://hairspring.com/finds/charles-frodsham-double-impulse-chronometer-2/

Buckle up, as Erik & Max cover a complete chronology of Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph references this week. What separates the more desirable ones from the less but still very desirable ones? From 1518 to 5270, including 2499 vs 3970, this episode covers all points you need to start having informed conversations on the topic. Historic context, production numbers, differentiations between series, pointers and tips, it’s all in here. And to end it all, a debate: which is best? 

222 in Steel:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-vacheron-constantin-222-steel

Vintage 222 in Steel for Comparison:

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/vacheron-constantin/44018-222-steel/

PCC:

1518 Pink on Pink:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080122/213

1518 Steel:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-1518-steel

2499 Intro:

https://www.phillips.com/article/120019235/a-guide-to-the-patek-philippe-ref-2499-the-art-of-improving-upon-perfection

Vichet:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080223/186

Odd Crossover Example:

https://www.phillips.com/article/52322742/the-watch-that-shouldnt-exist-but-totally-does-three-times-over

2499 Fourth Series:

https://hairspring.com/finds/fourth-series-2499-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-chronograph/

3970 Intro:

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/a-collectors-guide-the-3970

3970 First Series:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/the-goat-collection-watches-treasures-from-tom-brady/reference-3970-first-series-a-yellow-gold

3970 Second Series:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6515265

3970 Third / Fourth:

https://hairspring.com/finds/fourth-series-patek-philippe-3970ep/

5970 Intro:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-guide-to-collecting-the-patek-philippe-5970-perpetual-calendar-chronograph

Some Crazy 5970 Orders:

https://revolutionwatch.com/eric-claptons-patek-philippe-white-gold-5970-with-brick-bracelet/

5270 Intro:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5270g-review

Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon:

https://hairspring.com/finds/740-056-a-lange-sohne-datograph-perpetual-tourbillon-2/

Only Wrist:

Tiffany Day-Date:

https://amsterdamvintagewatches.com/shop/rolex-day-date-1803-tiffany-co/

105.035:

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/lange_saxonia-darth-platinum-105-035

5070:

https://hairspring.com/finds/saatchi-london-5070p-patek-philippe-chronograph/

Have you ever wondered if it’s appropriate to wear a dive watch on leather? This week, Erik & Max have the final answer. Plus, a Daytona on alligator? What about a VC 1921 Historiques on NATO? Contrast stitching? What faux pas exist in strap wearing if any? This, plus an analysis on Roman numerals, appropriate use, and critique of their frequent misuse. Finally, an Only Wrist to help out AP. 

Zuck:

https://www.instagram.com/wristcheck/p/DAdsAr4Nf8l/?img_index=1

https://www.gq.com/story/mark-zuckerberg-greubel-forsey-almost-one-million-handmade-watch

Combs:

https://www.instagram.com/niccoloy/p/C5hMaNFhsZu/

Lange On a NATO Account:

https://www.instagram.com/lange.on.a.nato/

Kristian Haagen’s Incredible Alligator Nato:

https://www.instagram.com/p/DEUHw4WsVWX/?img_index=1

14800 Royal Oak on Strap:

https://hairspring.com/finds/peach-dial-14800ba-audemars-piguet-royal-oak/

6007:

https://www.patek.com/en/collection/calatrava/6007G-001

5373:

https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/5373P-001

Aquanaut Strap Guillotine:

https://www.instagram.com/alekswatches/reel/CyyVMRuNyDO/

Removable Bracelet Odysseus:

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/a-lange-sohne/363-179-odysseus-first-generation-steel/

Roman Numeral Watches:

https://hairspring.com/finds/first-generation-403-035-a-lange-sohne-datograph/

https://hairspring.com/finds/brown-guilloche-dial-voutilainen-observatoire/

https://hairspring.com/finds/laurent-ferrier-classic-moon/

https://hairspring.com/finds/2007-commissioned-cartier-crash/

https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/rolex-oysterquartz-datejust-guide

https://thekeystone.com/products/patek-philippe-platinum-annual-calendar-power-reserve-watch-ref-5056

Only Wrist:

5516:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vintage-audemars-piguet-reference-5516-perpetual-calendar

5072 in Steel:

https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/1950s-audemars-piguet-oversized-ref-5072-with-small-signature

Remaster02:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-ap-remaster02

5554:

https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/royal-oak-25554

Ader:

https://www.ader-paris.fr/en/lot/142763/23436868-audemars-piguet-pre-model-1530-ndeg-44644-sold-march-1-1942