We're back with another episode of Hodinkee Radio. In addition to the podcast feed, each episode also has video, so swing by Hodinkee's YouTube channel (or watch below). Only want the audio? It's being published to the same old Hodinkee Radio feed, so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find podcasts (try Apple Podcasts, Stitcher, Spotify, or TuneIn).

For this episode, James is hosting, and he is joined by Rich and Mark to discuss their thoughts for the watch world in 2025. The trio chats about the continued popularity of vintage-inspired designs and what they're hoping to see from Omega, Rolex, Tudor, Patek Philippe, Cartier, and more. 

As this is the last episode of Hodinkee Radio in 2024, we wanted to thank everyone who has listened to the show, offered feedback, and more this past year. We'll be back soon with fresh episodes for 2025.

Show Notes: 

0:51 End of Year Episodes: Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 
6:12 Urban Jurgensen 
6:54 Longines Heritage models 
10:51 Special Link From Bruichladdich 
12:40 Grand Seiko SLGW003 
14:22 Flight Qualitifed Omega Speedmaster 
19:50 Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT 
27:40 Rolex Sea-Dweller 
31:33 Cariter Coussin de Cartier 
32:00 Cartier Santos Dumont Rewind 
38:04 Shellman Side Slide Minute Repeater

5:09 Zenith Defy Revival Diver A3648
8:20 MB&F LM101 2021 Editions
13:43 Julien Tornare joins Hublot
15:33 Jaeger-LeCoultre Pop-Up at Hudson Yards NYC
16:40 Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris
18:36 Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph Reissue
22:04 Special Link From Bruichladdich
27:26 Grand Seiko Dive Watches
28:38 Blancpain Fifty Fathoms
34:15 Blancpain x Swatch Scuba Fifty
37:23 Dream Swatch Collaborations

For this episode, James is hosting, and he is joined by Mark and Rich to discuss the last year in watches. The conversation is wide-ranging and includes everything from the continued popularity of shaped cases to Daniel Craig leaks, fan service in watches, the need for fun, the continued role of the Moonswatch, and a handful of favorite releases from 2024.

We'll be back in a few days with part three of this series, in which we will look forward to the excitement of what we hope will come in 2025. Thanks so much for listening.

2:35 Cartier Crash 
3:11 Berneron watches 
3:45 Cartier Rewind 
5:35 The white dial Omega Speedmaster Pro 
6:01 Tudor Black Bay "Monochrome" 
9:42 Mark's story about buying a Moonswatch 
15:24 M.A.D.1S 17:02 Special Link From Bruichladdich 
17:39 Patek Philippe Cubitus 18:35 Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT 
30:35 Tag Heuer and F1 30:52 Doxa Sub 200T 
31:00 Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante EWT 
31:37 Impossible Watch Co 
32:07 Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon 
34:50 Laurent Ferrier Classic Auto "Sandstone" 
35:24 The John Mayer AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar LE 36:07 Grand Seiko SLGW003

For this episode, James is hosting and is joined by Malaika and TanTan to chat about the last year in watches. After a quick sidebar about the competition between the English supper and Thanksgiving dinner, the trio gets into the trends, major releases, and favorite moments from 2024. From the "mini" trend, solid additions from Omega, Lange, Hermes, and more to the search for fun in the hobby and, finally, a chat about the recent collab between Audemars Piguet and the artist KAWS.

We'll be back next week with a similar format but with a panel including Rich Fordon and Mark Kauzlarich. 

Thanks for listening!

4:20 Mini! (AP) (Cartier) (Longines) 
5:34 Berneron Mirage
11:00 Special Link From Bruichladdich
12:56 Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Pro White Dial (A Week On The Wrist)
16:31 3861 Omega Speedmaster
25:40 Doxa Sub 200
27:07 Hermes Cut (In-Depth)
30:00 Tantan's Habring Erwin "Tuxedo"
31:55 Momentum UDT
32:37 Unimatic U5S MOMA
34:30 Blancpain x Swatch Scuba Fifty
35:04 Keith Haring Swatch
36:58 Timex Japan 8-Laps
39:14 Lange Datograph Handwerkskunst
39:22 Lange 1 Anniversary Onyx
40:40 AP x Kaws Concept Tourbillon "Companion"

We're back with another episode of Hodinkee Radio. In addition to the podcast feed, each episode also has video, so swing by Hodinkee's YouTube channel (or watch below). Only want the audio? It's being published to the same old Hodinkee Radio feed, so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find podcasts (try Apple Podcasts, Stitcher, Spotify, or TuneIn). 

For this episode, we are joined by Tania Edwards, Co-Founder of Collectability and former employee of Patek Philippe. Her extensive knowledge of Patek, as well as her many years of experience in its marketing department, make her a bona fide expert when it comes to the brand's heritage, evolution, and watchmaking.

Tania and Tony discuss Patek's history through the '80s and '90s, how the brand's identity and marketing campaigns have evolved to today, and her thoughts on vintage and modern Patek watches (including the Cubitus Collection, of course).

0:05 Hodinkee Insurance

00:33 Tania Edwards

00:34 Collectability

6:30 ETA Delirium quartz caliber

7:14 Caliber 89 and the 150th of Patek 

12:50 Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 

14:01 Patek Philippe Twenty-4 

15:09 Patek Philippe Aquanaut 

16:40 The Patek Philippe Ads  

25:30 Patek Philippe Advanced Research 

29:39 Patek Philippe Ref. 96 

30:34 The Patek Philippe Neptune 

33:08 The Patek Philippe Cubitus

36:35 Patek Calatrava 4860 

37:47 Patek Philippe 130 Chronograph 

38:37 Patek Philippe 3940 

39:25 Patek Philippe 7000 Minute Repeater

40:23 Patek Philippe 3848 Ellipse 

51:60 Collectability Podcast

Pierre Biver of J.C. Biver, Jasper Lijfering of Amsterdam Vintage Watches, and Erik Gustafson of Hairspring Watches join me in three separate conversations to provide a holistic overview of stone dials.

Over the past few years, stone dials have seemingly popped up everywhere. More modern brands are making them. At the same time, vintage examples have become more collectible and jumped in price considerably.

But stone dials are still a relatively undiscovered corner of watch collecting. They're not well understood on the vintage or modern side.

So I wanted to cover them on Hodinkee. Typically, we'd do this by talking to a few experts and synthesizing those conversations into an in-depth article. But I decided to try something different this time around, hitting record on three conversations to learn about modern stone dial production, vintage collecting, and everything in between.

Our first conversation is with Pierre Biver, who started J.C. Biver with his father Jean-Claude Biver last year. Each of their releases has included a stone dial option. Then, I talk with two dealers. First is Jasper Lijfering of Amsterdam Vintage Watches, a vintage dealer and trained gemologist. Second is Erik Gustafson of Hairspring Watches, who has helped grow the scholarship around stone dials. We dive into the recent discussion around Rolex "obsidian" dials; as we'll discuss, this name isn't quite accurate and it shows how much there still is to learn about vintage watches, and stone dials in particular.

I hope all three conversations give you a better understanding of stone dials. Note that I've tried to include links to an example of all stone dials mentioned in the audio, so check the show notes below if you're not sure what a particular stone looks like.

Show Notes

1:23: Hands-On: The Biver Automatique

2:14: Hands-On: The Biver Carillon Tourbillon

19:30: Hands-On: The Berneron Mirage Realizes Its Creator's Uncompromising Vision

24:00: Hands-On: Baltic Prismic Stone Dial Limited Editions

31:54: Amsterdam Vintage Watches

33:35: In-Depth: How Piaget Defined The 1970s, And How It Can Do The Same Today

38:15: Example of a Rolex Day-Date with Malachite dial

39:16: Example of a Rolex Day-Date with Coral dial

41:53: Dr. Helmut Crott's The Dial

42:45: Example of a Rolex Day-Date with black Onyx dial

43:15: Example of a Piaget Protocole with Lapis Lazuli dial

43:28: Example of a Rolex Day-Date with Tiger's Eye dial

45:20: Example of a Rolex Day-Date with Green Jasper dial

46:30: Example of a Rolex Day-Date with Pyramid Onyx dial

46:55: Jasper's white gold Datejust with Red Jasper dial

52:05: Rolex Day-Date with 'Bloodstone' dial

54:10: Hairspring Watches

56:00: Hairspring's post about the "Obsidian" dial Rolex Datejust

58:45: Recapping The Glamorous Day-Date Sale At Phillips (That Time The Average Day-Date Sold For $110,580)

1:00:00: "Obsidian" Rolex at Phillips in 2020

1:02:30: Rolex Day-Date Khanjar with "Obsidian" dial that Loupe This described as "although it looks like an onyx stone dial, after closer inspection it appears the dial is a painted/ lacquer dial."

1:11:37: Introducing: Audemars Piguet Brings Back The Starwheel (Live Pics) (including pics of a tropical Starwheel)

1:11:58: Rolex Daytona ref. 116500 "Lemon" dial

For this special episode, we're joined by Andres Nicholls. Andres is a dedicated collector of all things Porsche and Porsche Design. Andres' passion for the brand runs deep – he bought his first Porsche Design Chronograph 1 way back in 2000. As a trained designer and architect, he also brings a different perspective to the way in which Porsche Design's watches blend design and complications. Along the way, James and Andres also talk about some of their favorite Porsche cars, and how the brand continues to set itself apart. Andres is a senior partner and creative director for the creative agency Prophet.

Thanks to Porsche Design for its support of Hodinkee Radio.

Show Notes

Related coverage of Porsche Design:

Also watch our first episode featuring Porsche Design with Drew Peterson.

In-Depth: A Detailed Look At The Incredible 40 Years Of Porsche Design

Watching Movies: Why Tom Cruise's Porsche Design, And A Vintage Rolex, Make 'Top Gun: Maverick' The Best Watch Movie Of The Year

Talking Watches With Ferdi Porsche

Hands-On: Take To The Ice With The New Porsche Design Chronograph 1 GP 2023 Edition

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/take-to-the-ice-with-the-new-porsche-design-chronograph-1-gp-2023-edition

The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 for Hodinkee

There's no one quite like Max Büsser in the watch world. Each of his creations is so innovative, unique, and cutting edge, but also all clearly from the same mind, challenging conventions of watchmaking.

Büsser got his start in watches working with Jaeger-LeCoultre during the rebirth of traditional watchmaking in the 1990s. From there, he joined Harry Winston and launched its Opus series, collaborating with independent watchmakers like FP Journe.

Then, in 2005 he started his own brand, Max Busser and Friends. His Horological and Legacy Machines are like no other watches, pieces of kinetic art. 

On today's episode, Max joined Ben and me to talk about his entire career, including his nearly 20 years at MB&F. We also talk about the current state of innovation and creativity in the watch industry. We also discuss the recent investment in MB&F by Chanel, and what's next for him and MB&f. Without further ado, enjoy this conversation with Max and Ben.

Show Notes

3:00: Introducing the MB&F LM101

The MB&F LM101 Limited Edition for Hodinkee

3:39: Hands-On With the MB&F HM2 (2013)

19:00: Hands-On With the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Chronograph (2023)

20:30: A Week On The Wrist: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Sector Dial (2017)

24:33: Introducing: The Grande Lange 1 Lumen (2012)

31:58: In-Depth: The Classic Datograph

36:27: Hands-On: MB&F's Horological Machine 11 'Architect' – A House For The Wrist

36:33: Hands-On: The M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.1S, Some Of The World's Best Horological Entertainment And So Much More

For this special episode, we're joined by Drew Peterson. Drew is a dedicated collector of the Porsche Design Chronograph 1, so he brought a portion of his collection to the Hodinkee office to chat with James Stacey. He takes us through the history and the evolution of the Chronograph 1, introduced in 1972. From Valjoux and Lemania calibers to the many military connections and everything in between, Drew is an absolute wealth of knowledge about the Chronograph 1 and Porsche Design. He also talks about the future of collecting the Chronograph 1 and a few of the mysteries that are still out there for collectors to solve.

Finally, James and Drew finish by taking a look at the modern reissue of the Chronograph 1 and what the future holds for Porsche Design.

Thanks to Porsche Design for its support of Hodinkee Radio.

Show Notes

Related coverage of Porsche Design:

In-Depth: A Detailed Look At The Incredible 40 Years Of Porsche Design

Watching Movies: Why Tom Cruise's Porsche Design, And A Vintage Rolex, Make 'Top Gun: Maverick' The Best Watch Movie Of The Year

Talking Watches With Ferdi Porsche

Hands-On: Take To The Ice With The New Porsche Design Chronograph 1 GP 2023 Edition

The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 for Hodinkee

The movement maker's Director of Innovation and Marketing discusses collecting chronographs, Sellita, what the Swiss watch industry can do better, and his new brand Albishorn. 

Show Notes

1:46: Chronographs for Collectors

4:30: In-Depth: Swatch Group Battles With COMCO Over ETA Movement Sales (2020)

12:40: Hands-On: The Angelus U10 Tourbillon Lumière

19:30: Possible Tornado Hits La Chaux-de-Fonds, Causing Significant Damage To The Area

28:20: Sellita catalog from 2022

45:20: Albishorn Watches