HODINKEE Podcasts

We're back with another episode of Hodinkee Radio. In addition to the podcast feed, each episode also has video, so swing by Hodinkee's YouTube channel (or watch below). Only want the audio? It's being published to the same old Hodinkee Radio feed, so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find podcasts (try Apple Podcasts, Stitcher, Spotify, or TuneIn). 

For this episode, we are joined by Tania Edwards, Co-Founder of Collectability and former employee of Patek Philippe. Her extensive knowledge of Patek, as well as her many years of experience in its marketing department, make her a bona fide expert when it comes to the brand's heritage, evolution, and watchmaking.

Tania and Tony discuss Patek's history through the '80s and '90s, how the brand's identity and marketing campaigns have evolved to today, and her thoughts on vintage and modern Patek watches (including the Cubitus Collection, of course).

0:05 Hodinkee Insurance

00:33 Tania Edwards

00:34 Collectability

6:30 ETA Delirium quartz caliber

7:14 Caliber 89 and the 150th of Patek 

12:50 Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 

14:01 Patek Philippe Twenty-4 

15:09 Patek Philippe Aquanaut 

16:40 The Patek Philippe Ads  

25:30 Patek Philippe Advanced Research 

29:39 Patek Philippe Ref. 96 

30:34 The Patek Philippe Neptune 

33:08 The Patek Philippe Cubitus

36:35 Patek Calatrava 4860 

37:47 Patek Philippe 130 Chronograph 

38:37 Patek Philippe 3940 

39:25 Patek Philippe 7000 Minute Repeater

40:23 Patek Philippe 3848 Ellipse 

51:60 Collectability Podcast

Pierre Biver of J.C. Biver, Jasper Lijfering of Amsterdam Vintage Watches, and Erik Gustafson of Hairspring Watches join me in three separate conversations to provide a holistic overview of stone dials.

Over the past few years, stone dials have seemingly popped up everywhere. More modern brands are making them. At the same time, vintage examples have become more collectible and jumped in price considerably.

But stone dials are still a relatively undiscovered corner of watch collecting. They're not well understood on the vintage or modern side.

So I wanted to cover them on Hodinkee. Typically, we'd do this by talking to a few experts and synthesizing those conversations into an in-depth article. But I decided to try something different this time around, hitting record on three conversations to learn about modern stone dial production, vintage collecting, and everything in between.

Our first conversation is with Pierre Biver, who started J.C. Biver with his father Jean-Claude Biver last year. Each of their releases has included a stone dial option. Then, I talk with two dealers. First is Jasper Lijfering of Amsterdam Vintage Watches, a vintage dealer and trained gemologist. Second is Erik Gustafson of Hairspring Watches, who has helped grow the scholarship around stone dials. We dive into the recent discussion around Rolex "obsidian" dials; as we'll discuss, this name isn't quite accurate and it shows how much there still is to learn about vintage watches, and stone dials in particular.

I hope all three conversations give you a better understanding of stone dials. Note that I've tried to include links to an example of all stone dials mentioned in the audio, so check the show notes below if you're not sure what a particular stone looks like.

Show Notes

1:23: Hands-On: The Biver Automatique

2:14: Hands-On: The Biver Carillon Tourbillon

19:30: Hands-On: The Berneron Mirage Realizes Its Creator's Uncompromising Vision

24:00: Hands-On: Baltic Prismic Stone Dial Limited Editions

31:54: Amsterdam Vintage Watches

33:35: In-Depth: How Piaget Defined The 1970s, And How It Can Do The Same Today

38:15: Example of a Rolex Day-Date with Malachite dial

39:16: Example of a Rolex Day-Date with Coral dial

41:53: Dr. Helmut Crott's The Dial

42:45: Example of a Rolex Day-Date with black Onyx dial

43:15: Example of a Piaget Protocole with Lapis Lazuli dial

43:28: Example of a Rolex Day-Date with Tiger's Eye dial

45:20: Example of a Rolex Day-Date with Green Jasper dial

46:30: Example of a Rolex Day-Date with Pyramid Onyx dial

46:55: Jasper's white gold Datejust with Red Jasper dial

52:05: Rolex Day-Date with 'Bloodstone' dial

54:10: Hairspring Watches

56:00: Hairspring's post about the "Obsidian" dial Rolex Datejust

58:45: Recapping The Glamorous Day-Date Sale At Phillips (That Time The Average Day-Date Sold For $110,580)

1:00:00: "Obsidian" Rolex at Phillips in 2020

1:02:30: Rolex Day-Date Khanjar with "Obsidian" dial that Loupe This described as "although it looks like an onyx stone dial, after closer inspection it appears the dial is a painted/ lacquer dial."

1:11:37: Introducing: Audemars Piguet Brings Back The Starwheel (Live Pics) (including pics of a tropical Starwheel)

1:11:58: Rolex Daytona ref. 116500 "Lemon" dial

For this special episode, we're joined by Andres Nicholls. Andres is a dedicated collector of all things Porsche and Porsche Design. Andres' passion for the brand runs deep – he bought his first Porsche Design Chronograph 1 way back in 2000. As a trained designer and architect, he also brings a different perspective to the way in which Porsche Design's watches blend design and complications. Along the way, James and Andres also talk about some of their favorite Porsche cars, and how the brand continues to set itself apart. Andres is a senior partner and creative director for the creative agency Prophet.

Thanks to Porsche Design for its support of Hodinkee Radio.

Show Notes

Related coverage of Porsche Design:

Also watch our first episode featuring Porsche Design with Drew Peterson.

In-Depth: A Detailed Look At The Incredible 40 Years Of Porsche Design

Watching Movies: Why Tom Cruise's Porsche Design, And A Vintage Rolex, Make 'Top Gun: Maverick' The Best Watch Movie Of The Year

Talking Watches With Ferdi Porsche

Hands-On: Take To The Ice With The New Porsche Design Chronograph 1 GP 2023 Edition

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/take-to-the-ice-with-the-new-porsche-design-chronograph-1-gp-2023-edition

The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 for Hodinkee

There's no one quite like Max Büsser in the watch world. Each of his creations is so innovative, unique, and cutting edge, but also all clearly from the same mind, challenging conventions of watchmaking.

Büsser got his start in watches working with Jaeger-LeCoultre during the rebirth of traditional watchmaking in the 1990s. From there, he joined Harry Winston and launched its Opus series, collaborating with independent watchmakers like FP Journe.

Then, in 2005 he started his own brand, Max Busser and Friends. His Horological and Legacy Machines are like no other watches, pieces of kinetic art. 

On today's episode, Max joined Ben and me to talk about his entire career, including his nearly 20 years at MB&F. We also talk about the current state of innovation and creativity in the watch industry. We also discuss the recent investment in MB&F by Chanel, and what's next for him and MB&f. Without further ado, enjoy this conversation with Max and Ben.

Show Notes

3:00: Introducing the MB&F LM101

The MB&F LM101 Limited Edition for Hodinkee

3:39: Hands-On With the MB&F HM2 (2013)

19:00: Hands-On With the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Chronograph (2023)

20:30: A Week On The Wrist: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Sector Dial (2017)

24:33: Introducing: The Grande Lange 1 Lumen (2012)

31:58: In-Depth: The Classic Datograph

36:27: Hands-On: MB&F's Horological Machine 11 'Architect' – A House For The Wrist

36:33: Hands-On: The M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.1S, Some Of The World's Best Horological Entertainment And So Much More

For this special episode, we're joined by Drew Peterson. Drew is a dedicated collector of the Porsche Design Chronograph 1, so he brought a portion of his collection to the Hodinkee office to chat with James Stacey. He takes us through the history and the evolution of the Chronograph 1, introduced in 1972. From Valjoux and Lemania calibers to the many military connections and everything in between, Drew is an absolute wealth of knowledge about the Chronograph 1 and Porsche Design. He also talks about the future of collecting the Chronograph 1 and a few of the mysteries that are still out there for collectors to solve.

Finally, James and Drew finish by taking a look at the modern reissue of the Chronograph 1 and what the future holds for Porsche Design.

Thanks to Porsche Design for its support of Hodinkee Radio.

Show Notes

Related coverage of Porsche Design:

In-Depth: A Detailed Look At The Incredible 40 Years Of Porsche Design

Watching Movies: Why Tom Cruise's Porsche Design, And A Vintage Rolex, Make 'Top Gun: Maverick' The Best Watch Movie Of The Year

Talking Watches With Ferdi Porsche

Hands-On: Take To The Ice With The New Porsche Design Chronograph 1 GP 2023 Edition

The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 for Hodinkee

The movement maker's Director of Innovation and Marketing discusses collecting chronographs, Sellita, what the Swiss watch industry can do better, and his new brand Albishorn. 

Show Notes

1:46: Chronographs for Collectors

4:30: In-Depth: Swatch Group Battles With COMCO Over ETA Movement Sales (2020)

12:40: Hands-On: The Angelus U10 Tourbillon Lumière

19:30: Possible Tornado Hits La Chaux-de-Fonds, Causing Significant Damage To The Area

28:20: Sellita catalog from 2022

45:20: Albishorn Watches

We're back in the swing of things after an end-of-summer break from Hodinkee Radio. This week, James and Malaika join the show. We discuss some of our favorite recent releases from Zenith, Tudor, Hamilton, Chanel, and more. Then, we get into Malaika's recent in-depth article on Tiffany & Co.'s "untapped watchmaking potential." We explore the American retailer's long relationship with watches and watchmaking, and discuss the potential for revamping its watches in the wake of its 2021 acquisition by LVMH. Then, we have a Collecting Advice from a world-traveling free diver looking for a watch. Thanks as always for listening to Hodinkee Radio – we have some exciting guests lined up for the fall, so stay dialed into this feed.

8:30: Zenith ladder bracelet for the Chronomaster Revival Safari and Shadow

10:30: The Dubai Watch Club Zenith El Primero A384 (SJX)

11:15: Zenith Chronomaster Revival Safari

13:04: Just Because: Chanel Made A Watch with Headphones

18:20: Introducing: Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz

19:00: Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono 'Blue' Boutique Edition

20:08: A Week On The Wrist: Tudor Black Bay Heritage Chrono Blue

23:16: Gold Tudor Prince Chronograph for Only Watch

25:25: Hands-On: The Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold

27:30: In-Depth: Tiffany & Co.'s Untapped Watchmaking Potential

31:45: The Tiffany & Co. CT60 Collection

42:00: Introducing: The Marathon Navigator – Now With A Steel Case!

42:58: Hands-On: The Doxa Sub 200T

43:48: Garmn Descent G1

44:26: Scurfa Diver One

45:10: Benrus Type 1-C

45:50: Halios Seaforth IV

46:45: Introducing: Longines Hydroconquest GMT

47:40: Hands-On: The Seiko Prospex SPB451 And SPB453

49:10: Happenings: House Of Craft NYC | UBS x Hodinkee

It's almost the end of summer, so today I've got Mark Kauzlarich and our new editor TanTan Wang on to talk about some of the biggest news of the past couple of months. While the watch world mostly slows down in July and August, news and releases have still been trickling out. So we're going to highlight a few of our favorite releases from Tudor, Longines, MB&F, and more. Then, we hit on some other industry news before taking a longer look at Habring2, the Austrian brand from Richard and Maria Habring.  

Then, Mark and I will both be at Geneva Watch Days, so we do a preview of what to look forward to as the Swiss watch industry kicks into high gear again. Thanks as always for listening to Hodinkee Radio. We'll be off the next two weeks for an end of summer break, but we'll be back in your feed again on September 18. 

Show Notes

2:50: Longines Adds To Its Spirit Collection, Led By The Titanium Zulu Time 39

4:00: Hands-On: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

8:50: Hands-On: Longines Legend Diver – Back And Better At 39mm

10:30: Hands-On: The Tudor Pelagos FXD 'Cycling Edition'

13:10: Introducing: Two New Tudor Pelagos FXDs For Alinghi Red Bull Racing – And One Of Them Is A Chronograph

18:50: Hands-On: Furlan Marri Disco Volante

20:20: Introducing: M.A.D. Editions' M.A.D.1 Gets Slimmer With The M.A.D.1S

28:05: Business News: Chanel Takes A 25% Stake In MB&F

36:50: The Value Proposition: The Habring2 Erwin 'Tuxedo'

39:35: A Week On The Wrist: Jaeger-LeCoultre Geopyshic True Second

51:50: SpaceOne Watches Tellerium

Today's guest is a true legend. Fred Savage is an actor, producer, and director, best known for his roles in front of the camera in The Wonder Years and The Princess Bride after getting his big break in a commercial for Pac-Man Children's Chewable Multi-Vitamin. He's also a watch collector who I've seen get excited about vintage Gallet, Patek, and everything in between.

You might also recognize Fred from his 2018 Talking Watches episode. Since then, he's become a fixture in the vintage watch world, and I always look forward to crossing paths with him at shows, auctions, or meetups. 

Ben Clymer also joins the show, and we discuss Fred's evolution as a collector since his Talking Watches episode, some of his more offbeat finds, and how watches have become something for the whole family in the Savage house. Thanks for listening, and we hope you enjoy this week's episode of Hodinkee Radio. 

Show Notes

00:01: Fred Savage on Talking Watches

1:45: Fred's "new" vintage Rolex Datejust from Wanna Buy A Watch?

17:45: Fred's Rolex Commando

19:10: Fred's Framont Parking Meter Alarm Watch

24:55: Bulova Devil Diver 666 example (Hodinkee Shop)

46:00: Timepiece Grading Specialists

Our guest today is James Lamdin, co-founder of Analog Shift. After careers in outdoor equipment and cars, James started vintage dealer Analog Shift in 2012. A long-time watch collector, James turned his passion for vintage watches into a new resource for collectors and enthusiasts. You might know Analog Shift for its detailed watch descriptions, often with a bit of character, and perhaps you've even been lucky enough to visit its New York City showroom, a standby for local vintage watch lovers. In addition to Analog Shift, James is also the co-founder of the RedBar community.

In 2020, Analog Shift was acquired by the retailer Watches of Switzerland. But Analog Shift has kept its character since then. Today, James is VP of vintage and pre-owned with Watches of Switzerland. When he's not talking vintage watches, he's drinking whisky, driving his vintage Porsche, and generally cosplaying as Magnum PI.

James Stacey joins Mr. Lamdin and me to talk Doxa (of course), how the watch industry has evolved since Lamdin founded Analog Shift, neo-vintage watches, and his company's acquisition by Watches of Switzerland. Thanks for listening, and I hope you enjoy this week's episode of Hodinkee Radio.

Show Notes

00:01: Analog Shift

13:20: Example of Gruen Travel Alarm Clark

15:20: U-Boat at the Chicago Museum of Science and Industry

16:54: Cartier Envelope Watch

21:10: James' Doxa Sub 300 "Black Lung"

23:18: The Doxa Sub200T

26:00: The New Doxa Army

29:04: James' Doxa Sub300 from the Jamaican Defense Forces can be seen in the header image.

43:00: Cartier Tank Americaine with diamonds

45:30: IWC Chronograph ref. 3706

46:12: Hands-On: IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ref. 3714