SJX has just returned from the Tokyo launch of Louis Vuitton's third independent watchmaking collaboration, this time with De Bethune. Episode 29 of the SJX Podcast covers what it means for both brands, and unpacks the details of both the GMT Louis Varius wristwatch and the monumental Sympathique clock that it can be paired with.

Brandon and SJX also provide hands-on analysis of the Escale Worldtime and Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton that debuted during LVMH Watch Week in January.

Show notes:

• 00:30: Louis Varius Sympathique Clock
• 12:30: Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime
• 14:40: Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime Flying Tourbillon
• 15:30: Louis Vuitton Escale Twin Zone
• 17:30: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton

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Recorded shortly after Brandon's return from Audemars Piguet's launch event in Switzerland, Episode 28 of the SJX Podcast provides analysis of all the brand's new releases, including the Neo Frame Jumping Hour, the 150 Heritage grand complication pocket watch, the upgraded Royal Oak Chronograph and its new in-house movement, and the latest open-worked perpetual calendar, which works equally well in Code 11.59 and Royal Oak guise.

The conversation also touches on the internal reorganisation at AP that saw the creation of a multi-disciplinary fabrication laboratory dubbed the 'Fab Lab.'

Show notes:

• 00:30: Neo Frame Jumping Hour
• 6:15: 150 Heritage pocket watch
• 12:45: Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm
• 18:25: Royal Oak and Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar
• 21:05: AP’s Fab Lab

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Episode 27 of the SJX Podcast opens the archives to find the most impractical and illegible watches that somehow still manage to be worthwhile despite the triumph of form over function. It's a difficult formula to get right, and the landscape of fine watchmaking is littered with examples of watches that sacrificed too much at the altar of fashion. But those that strike the right balance are especially memorable.

SJX and Brandon also discuss a couple of emerging independents from as far afield as Japan and Finland.

Show notes:

01:00: Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime Time Pyramid (2014)

2:45: Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Planétarium

7:30: Patek Philippe 5330G Tokyo Edition

11:00: New Indies: Nouvelle Chronometrie

14:00: New Indies: Kortela Valta

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Episode 26 of the SJX Podcast breaks down the best releases from LVMH Watch Week, which saw the return of the hand-painted Escale Worldtime. The slate of releases also includes a surprising new men's watch from Tiffany & Co powered by the Zenith El Primero, and the first all-new model from the modern era of Daniel Roth. Things are looking up for TAG Heuer as well, which launched a regular production version of the Seafarer with vintage-leaning 'Intrepid Teal' accents, and a new top-of-the-line Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph that has more in common with the likes of Richard Mille than the rest of the Carrera line-up.

Show notes:

00:30: Tiffany Timer

3:00: Escale Worldtime

3:45: Escale Twin Zone

4:00: Escale Minute Repeater

5:00: Tambour Convergence Guilloche

11:15: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton

13:45: TAG Heuer Carrera Seafarer

15:15: TAG Heuer Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph

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The SJX Podcast kicks off 2026 with an analysis of the latest industry news, including Chanel's 30% stake in Kross Manufacture and Vacheron Constantin's initiative to apply the concours format to watches. We also discuss the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus in Honeygold ahead of an upcoming review, and compare its merits with its titanium sibling.

Show notes:

1:00 - Chanel invests in Kross Manufacture

07:30 - Vacheron Constantin Concours d’Élégance Horlogère

13:00 - Head to head: A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Honeygold vs titanium

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Episode 24 of the SJX Podcast covers the surprises and unexpected developments of 2025, a year marked by significant material innovation and bold statements from established brands. In this final episode of the year, SJX and Brandon discuss Rolex's landmark Land-Dweller with its revolutionary Dynapulse escapement, Breguet's experimental magnetic constant-force mechanism that achieved unprecedented precision, and TAG Heuer's industrialization of carbon hairsprings. Vacheron Constantin also surprised with an extraordinary 150 kg astronomical clock created for its 270th anniversary, temporarily displayed at the Louvre alongside a companion wristwatch.

Thank you to all our listeners for joining us throughout 2025 - happy new year!

Show notes:

00:35 - Rolex Land-Dweller and Dynapulse Escapement

05:45 - Breguet Expérimentale 1 

10:30 - Vacheron Constantin La Quête Du Temps 

15:00 - TAG Heuer Carbon Hairspring Industrialisation

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Episode 23 of the SJX Podcast looks at value propositions under US$10,000 in 2025, a mixed year for affordable watches. While Tudor continued to refine its sports watch formula with the well-received Ranger 36, several micro-brands made compelling cases for themselves with distinctive designs and upgraded movements. The team highlights releases from Christopher Ward, Albishorn, and Kollokium that demonstrated there's still room for creativity and innovation at accessible price points, even as some established players moved upmarket. We also discuss the Grand Seiko UFA, which is just outside the range but might be worth it.

Show notes:

00:45 - Tudor Ranger 36

3:15 - Christopher Ward C12 Loco 

7:15 - Albishorn Thundergraph

10:15 - Kollokium Projekt 02

12:45 - Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive UFA Ref. SLGB003

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Episode 22 of the SJX Podcast examines complications in 2025, a banner year that saw major brands deliver ambitious and record-setting complications. Several anniversaries, including Vacheron Constantin's 270th and Audemars Piguet's 150th, resulted in inspired releases.

Show notes:

00:45 - Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication

4:00 - A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual

6:15 - Blancpain Grande Double Sonnerie

9:30 - Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Chronograph RD#5

11:10 - Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar Cal. 7138

13:15 - Vacheron Constantin Impresses with the Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Quest of Time

14:07 - Chopard L.U.C. Grand Strike

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Episode 21 of the SJX Podcast reflects on independent watchmaking in 2025, a year that saw fewer genuinely new releases than expected. Many familiar names opted for variations on existing models rather than bold new directions, making the standout pieces all the more significant, including Urban Jürgensen's impressive relaunch under Kari Voutilainen, two exceptional time-only watches that proved there's still room for originality in a crowded field, and interesting calendars from Greubel Forsey, Konstantin Chaykin, and Berneron.

Show notes:

1:05 - Nelson's Victory Pocket Watch at Sotheby's

3:30 - Francis Ford Coppola's F.P. Journe FFC Break US$10m at Phillips

6:22 - Urban Jürgensen UJ-1

10:00 - Petermann Bédat Reference 1825

11:50 - Raúl Pagès RP2

13:15 - Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 3

16:40 - Greubel Forsey QP Balancier

17:50 - Konstantin Chaykin White Rabbit

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