The SJX Podcast

On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, SJX returns from London and Milan with impressions of two very different demonstrations of watchmaking’s biggest names at work. Rolex’s “Four Seasons” Daytona auction broke the record for the biggest charity watch auction in history, raising nearly US$50 million, but a longer run-up could arguably have pushed the result even higher.

In Milan, Patek Philippe unveiled the ref. 5978P, pairing an instantaneous perpetual calendar with its manually wound chronograph. The exhibition’s Rare Handcrafts and Italian-market limited editions also offer plenty to debate, from remarkable pocket watches to a Ferrari-red minute repeater.

Finally, we discuss highlights from Marteau & Co’s fourth online auction, which runs from October 8-15th.

Show notes:

• 00:40: Rolex’s “Four Seasons” auction: bidding momentum, logistics, and a record charity result
• 08:00: Patek Philippe’s Milan exhibition and the instantaneous perpetual calendar chronograph ref. 5978P
• 13:30: Rare Handcrafts favourites: Venice in wood marquetry and Dante in enamel
• 16:20: Milan limited editions: day-and-night World Time Minute Repeaters, colourful Calatravas, and a new Aquanaut
• 19:40: Marteau auction highlights: independent watchmaking across the price spectrum, including unique pieces by Yosuke Sekiguchi and Sylvain Pinaud

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From the Five Time Zone to the Astronomia and Bugatti, Jacob & Co. has evolved considerably over the past 20 years. On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, SJX speaks with Benjamin Arabov about the family-owned brand’s transformation and the mechanical ingenuity sometimes obscured by its celebrity clientele and gem-set watches.

The conversation explores how ideas become watches, why smaller cases have opened the door to new collectors, and what makes partnerships with Bugatti and The Godfather work.

We also discuss the origins of the brand’s celebrity following, the continued importance of retail partners, and Benjamin’s approach to building a business that can outlast its founder while preserving his creative ambition.

Show notes:

• 00:20: Family ownership and the evolution of Jacob & Co.
• 02:44: Finding a niche in unusual complications
• 04:20: Product development and the push for smaller watches
• 07:15: The evolution of the client base
• 08:20: Partnerships (Bugatti, Godfather, etc.)
• 12:07: The Five Time Zone and the origins of the celebrity following
• 15:03: The next generation, long-term direction, and retail partnerships

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With around 130 people producing just 200 watches per year, Greubel Forsey seems to have returned to its roots and abandoned plans to expand production further. On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, CEO Michel Nydegger explains why the brand’s approach to watchmaking doesn’t scale and why growth is not a priority.

Recorded just after Geneva Watch Days, the conversation covers co-founder Stephen Forsey’s departure from operations, the new Qualité Musée finishing standard, and the challenge of preserving the brand’s distinctive movement architecture in smaller watches.

We also discuss the traditional skills behind the Hand Made series, how R&D is pursued without a particular product in mind, and why (but not how) a watchmaker quietly slipped a dozen handmade hairsprings into regular production watches for unbiased real-world testing.

Show notes:

• 02:30: Michel's journey into watchmaking
• 06:36: Managing succession of a founder-led brand
• 11:30: The decision to reject expanding the business beyond ~200 pieces/year
• 14:00: The development of the Qualité Musée standard
• 16:25: The role of R&D and technical innovation at Greubel Forsey
• 22:45: Adapting the house style of architectural watchmaking to smaller watches
• 23:45: The Hand Made series, preserving traditional skills, and balancing production
• 30:00: In-house hairspring production
• 32:10: Handling bespoke and custom orders responsibly
• 34:40: Longevity and lessons from two decades of independent watchmaking
• 38:40: The future of ultra high-end watch market and the importance of intrinsic value
• 40:35: Recognition and awards in the watch industry

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Geneva Watch Days just concluded, and by most measures it was the biggest ever. Brands exhibiting topped 70 while visitors were at a record high. The event attracted “an even larger contingent of content creators” according to GWD’s organisers, underscoring the growing fashionability of watches on social media. 

In total, some 400 watches were debuted at the event - but were they any good?

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Episode 50 of the SJX Podcast rounds up recent reviews, including a review of a new book about Universal Genève chronographs, and the latest updates to long-running platforms from Breguet and Patek Philippe.

The discussion also explores the intensifying competitive landscape in high-end watchmaking as big brands like Patek Philippe, Breguet, and A. Lange & Söhne close the gap with many artisanal independent brands in terms of finishing and execution.

Show notes:

• 00:30: Universal People Universal Dreams by Luca Mignini
• 03:47: Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral ref. 7255PT
• 10:10: Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 5227G

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Ahead of Geneva Watch Days, which will feature 71 (mostly independent) brands in 2026, episode 49 of the SJX Podcast looks back at how independent watchmaking became the phenomenon it is today. SJX and Brandon trace its evolution from 1970s pioneers like George Daniels and F.P. Journe through the arrival of Daniel Roth, Philippe Dufour, and Franck Muller. The conversation also examines the avant-garde boom of the 2000s, the renewed emphasis on traditional finishing, and the role of digital photography and social media in transforming what was once a solitary pursuit into a global collector community.

Listeners can sign up for the SJX Newsletter by August 12, 2026 for a chance to win a Habring² Chrono-Felix Medicus.

Show notes:

• 00:23: Habring² Chrono-Felix Medicus giveaway
• 02:25: Geneva Watch Days 2026 preview and origins
• 04:00: The pioneers of independent watchmaking
• 10:00: The 2000s wave and the influence of the Philippe Dufour Simplicity
• 12:09: Survivorship bias, changing tastes, and returning makers
• 14:03: Post-Covid independents, specialist suppliers, and social media
• 18:43: Predictions for what comes next

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As Swiss watchmakers prepare for their summer holidays, episode 48 of the SJX Podcast rounds up some of the best summer-ready watches released in the first half of 2026, spanning nearly every price category.

Show notes:

• 00:40: Kollokium Projekt 2 Variant C
• 01:34: Baltic Heures du Monde
• 02:10: Seiko Prospex Marinemaster HBF001
• 03:40: Seiko 5 Sports HUF Limited Edition
• 04:25: Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee”
• 05:56: TAG Heuer Carrera Seafarer
• 07:16: Hermès Cape Cod Titanium
• 09:15: Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ushio 300 Diver
• 10:20: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time "Cardinal Points"
• 12:15: Laurent Ferrier Sport Traveller
• 14:10: Greubel Forsey Balancier 3
• 15:48: Rolex gem-set Daytona quartet

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The return of the Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar got us thinking about other technically interesting watches that showed promise but never truly found their footing.

In episode 47 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss recent releases from Seiko, IWC, and Swatch before turning to candidates for a second chance, including the Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars AP Escapement, the TAG Heuer Monaco V4, and the elusive Breguet Hommage à Nicolas G. Hayek 7887.

Show notes:

• 00:30: Seiko Star Time for Shohei Ohtani
• 02:37: IWC ProSet Perpetual Calendar
• 07:35: Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch Mission to the Moon 1969
• 12:18: Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars AP Escapement
• 14:10: TAG Heuer Monaco V4
• 16:15: TAG Heuer high-frequency chronographs
• 18:15: Louis Vuitton Tambour Twin Chrono and Audemars Piguet Michael Schumacher Laptimer
• 20:23: Breguet Hommage à Nicolas G. Hayek ref. 7887

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In episode 46 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon and SJX examine the Swiss watch industry's June export figures, which confirm the strength of the American market and reveal the impact of the Royal Pop.

The episode also explores Rolex’s unexpected activity in clockmaking, beginning with the brand's patents for a traditional inclined-plane clock that was hiding in plain sight at Watches & Wonders. We also share impressions of the Rolex Submariner Desk Clock released late last year — a conservative-looking but impressively constructed object powered by an unusually sophisticated quartz movement.

Show notes:

• 00:35: Analysis of June data for Swiss watch exports
• 05:20: Rolex inclined-plane clock
• 09:30: Rolex Submariner Desk Clock

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The unprecedented collaboration between Swatch and Audemars Piguet that resulted in the Royal Pop dominated the product's first news cycle, but market enthusiasm seems to have cooled off, with anecdotal evidence supported by broader search trends.

On Episode 45 of the SJX Podcast, we look back at the launch, and discuss what future collaborators might do differently to avoid the same fate.

We also look at the opposite end of the market, which in some ways is only gaining momentum, with a number of multi-million-dollar results in the spring auctions.

Show notes:

• 00:30: Swatch x Audemars Piguet Royal Pop
• 02:30: Google search volume
• 05:25: F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance Souscription result at Phillips
• 10:10: F.P. Journe 'Swiss Fine Timing' edition results
• 13:41: Christie's highlights, including Patek Philippe ref. 3448G 'Red Dot' and ref. 5959R

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