The SJX Podcast

The unprecedented collaboration between Swatch and Audemars Piguet that resulted in the Royal Pop dominated the product's first news cycle, but market enthusiasm seems to have cooled off, with anecdotal evidence supported by broader search trends.

On Episode 45 of the SJX Podcast, we look back at the launch, and discuss what future collaborators might do differently to avoid the same fate.

We also look at the opposite end of the market, which in some ways is only gaining momentum, with a number of multi-million-dollar results in the spring auctions.

Show notes:

• 00:30: Swatch x Audemars Piguet Royal Pop
• 02:30: Google search volume
• 05:25: F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance Souscription result at Phillips
• 10:10: F.P. Journe 'Swiss Fine Timing' edition results
• 13:41: Christie's highlights, including Patek Philippe ref. 3448G 'Red Dot' and ref. 5959R

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Episode 44 of the SJX Podcast covers new releases from Grand Seiko, Greubel Forsey, Vacheron Constantin, and Breguet. The common thread that ties these releases together is that each is an incremental update to a previous model. Grand Seiko's updates to the Evolution 9 collection are perhaps most notable simply due to the brand's larger scale, and for what this refresh indicates about how the brand is listening to collector feedback.

We also shares our condolences with the Stern family over the passing of Philippe Stern, and discuss his towering legacy.

Show notes:

• 00:30: Philippe Stern's legacy
• 06:00: Grand Seiko Evolution 9 refresh (new bracelets and UFA movements)
• 09:30: Greubel Forsey Balancier QM
• 12:50: Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar
• 15:00: Breguet Tourbillon 225th Anniversary
• 16:00: Chanel Chessboard

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This weekend, the United States marks its 250th Independence Day — it's the perfect opportunity to reflect on recent American contributions to the field of horology.

On episode 43 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss the latest entry in this field — the Liberty 250 from 1776 Atelier — and break down the claim that 90% of its components are manufactured in the US. The conversation also discusses RGM and J.N. Shapiro — brands that have contributed substantially to contemporary American watchmaking.

Finally, to look into the future we go back to school by visiting the Watch Technology Institute in Seattle — the last remaining full-time public watchmaking programme in the US capable of granting a major certification.

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Jérôme Biard is good at keeping secrets. As chief executive of Roventa-Henex — a leading white label maker of Swiss watches — he needs to be. For episode 42 of the SJX Podcast, we visited Mr Biard at the company's secretive manufacture in the sleepy Swiss village of Tavannes.

The discussion covers the emergence of the 'micro-brand' (including whether that term is still relevant), the factors facing the Swiss watch industry today, the role suppliers play in shaping trends, and what it takes to start a watch company.

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Tiffany & Co. is one of the only major jewellers without a significant watchmaking programme. Episode 41 of the SJX Podcast examines the brand's past, present, and future under the leadership of Nicolas Beau, who is credited with building Chanel's watch business into what it is today.

When it comes to watches, Tiffany & Co. is potentially a diamond in the rough — it's a uniquely American luxury brand with enviable cultural recognition. The brand also has a global boutique network giving it immediate access to all major markets, which could accelerate its trajectory with the right product mix.

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For the 40th episode of the SJX Podcast, we sat down with Rexhep Rexhepi in Geneva to learn more about his latest watch — the RRCHF Chronograph Flyback. Rexhep explains why he wanted to make a chronograph, and how the self-imposed constraint of a symmetrical layout resulted in a more refined overall construction.

He also discusses the RRCHF's in-house escapement, and the trade-offs that were considered in its development.

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The spring auction seasons gets underway in Geneva in just a few days. On episode 39 of the SJX Podcast, we look at some of the top lots that caught our attention at Phillips, Christie's Sotheby's, and Antiquorum.

Auction dates (in order):

• Phillips: May 9 & 10
• Antiquorum: May 9 & 10
• Sotheby's: May 10
• Christie's: May 11 & 12

Show notes:

• 1:00: Patek Philippe Worldtime ref. 2523
• 1:20: Akrivia AK-06
• 1:45: Charles Frodsham pocket watch for J.P. Morgan partner Thomas Lamont
• 2:55: Victor Kullberg tourbillon pocket watch
• 3:25: Paul Ditisheim tourbillon pocket watch
• 4:45: Patek Philippe dual time pocket watch with Turkish dial
• 5:53: Audemars Piguet single-button chronograph wristwatch
• 7:15: School watch from Geneva Watchmaking School
• 7:47: Patek Philippe ref. 425 for Asprey
• 8:55: Audemars Piguet observatory dial
• 9:05: Rolex Submariner white gold prototype
• 10:20: Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 3700 diamond-set
• 11:30: A. Lange & Söhne grand complication pocket watch

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During Watches & Wonders, all eyes are usually on the major brands exhibiting inside the cavernous Palexpo. Episode 38 of the SJX Podcast rounds up the highlights from the smaller fairs like Time to Watches, and the independents exhibiting on their own around town.

Among the standouts were Mathieu Cleguer, who debuted a novel escapement of his own design, Dominique Renaud who launched a high-amplitude 1 Hz balance, and Franc Vila, who seems to be entering a new era of creativity.

Show notes:

• 1:12: Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing Mystery
• 2:45: Anton Suhanov Flamingo
• 4:20: Dominique Renaud Pulse 60
• 7:20: Cleguer Horology Inspiration One
• 9:15: Niton Prima
• 12:00: Franc Vila FVF2
• 14:30: Sylvain Pinaud Tourbillon
• 15:00: Marco Lang Seven Spheres

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Episode 37 of the SJX Podcast recaps the biggest releases from the brands officially exhibiting at Watches & Wonders 2026. Highlights from the independent brands exhibiting around town will be covered in our next episode.

Show notes:

• 0:55: Rolex Daytona Rolesium Enamel Dial ref. 126502
• 3:15: Rolex Yacht-Master II
• 5:00: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 'Jubilee' Dial
• 8:30: Patek Philippe Celestial ref. 6105G
• 12:00: Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5610P 50th Anniversary
• 12:30: Patek Philippe Automaton ref. 5249
• 13:30: Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar "Lumen"
• 14:50: Lange Saxonia Annual Calendar
• 15:50: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin ref. 2500V
• 16:50: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual-Time Cardinal Points
• 19:11: Tudor Black Bay Ceramic
• 19:40: Tudor Monarch
• 21:00: TAG Heuer Evergraph
• 25:00: Cartier Crash Platinum
• 26:20: Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ushio 300 Diver SLGB025 and SLGB023
• 28:00: Ressence Type 11
• 29:30: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieux

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Episode 36 of the SJX Podcast comes straight from Watches & Wonders 2026. As ever, all eyes are focused on Rolex during the first hour of the event. SJX and Brandon unpack the brand's new models, which feature new materials and a novel industrial approach to enamel dial production.

We'll be back soon with more live coverage of the industry's biggest event.

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