Whether we call them pet peeves, grievances, or things that grind our gears, this week Erik & Max are enumerating all the tiny annoyances that get on our nerves in watches. Broad strokes, so as to not give the reveal away, conversational topics include photography, movements, selling watches, snobbery, significant digits, and many more. Finally, an Only Wrist for the Cold War. 

Links Mentioned:

Olympic Elegante:

https://www.instagram.com/p/C-C972ng3iG/

Olympic Seikos:

https://www.fratellowatches.com/dear-seiko-bring-back-the-5717-8990-monopusher-chronograph/

What Grinds our Gears:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/how-to-take-better-photos-of-your-watches-without-buying-a-new-camera

https://www.watchprosite.com/patek-philippe/photo-comparo--5070-5270-and-5970/11.769133.5113193/

https://us.arbitro.shop/products/vacheron-constantin-round-6562-steel-silver-dial

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Significant_figures

https://hairspring.com/finds/time-aeon-naissance-dune-montre-2/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/romain-gauthier-insight-micro-rotor-hands-on

https://monochrome-watches.com/the-all-new-romain-gauthier-continuum-specs-price/

Only Wrist:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080122/118

https://hairspring.com/finds/honeycomb-dial-6350-rolex-explorer/

Erik & Max are accustomed to giving watch advice to others. They’re used to competing to build the best collections for a given category. But this one is . . .more intimate. This week, they’re building collections for each other. 50K for three watches: let the cards fall as they may. Plus, if you’re a star chef, how do you balance wanting something special with being in the kitchen? 

Links Mentioned:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-patek-philippe-reference-2497-part-1

https://hairspring.com/finds/bundeswehr-3501-iwc-porsche-design-ocean-2000/

https://www.fratellowatches.com/the-iwc-porsche-design-ocean-bund/

https://hairspring.com/finds/royal-navy-clearance-diver-116660-rolex-sea-dweller-deepsea/

The 50K Gifted Collection:

Max’s Choices:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/HK080423/886?fromSearch=570%20patek&searchPage=1

https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/1965-breitling-superocean-reference-2005?variant=12117073395787

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/breitling/2005-yachting-superocean-slow-chronograph-steel/

https://www.phillips.com/detail/breitling/HK080221/831

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/iwc/9240-ingenieur-perpetual-calendar-jumbo-yellow-gold/

Erik’s Choices:

https://hairspring.com/finds/mk2-freccione-1655-rolex-explorer-ii/

https://hairspring.com/finds/206-705-504-movado-super-sub-sea/

https://hairspring.com/finds/cb-case-105-012-66-omega-speedmaster/

https://hairspring.com/finds/e335-lecoultre-valjoux-72-chronograph/

https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/valjoux-lecoultre-us-chronograph-guide

https://hairspring.com/finds/4217-vacheron-constantin-calibre-454-5b-calatrava/

https://www.beyondthedial.com/post/collector-guide-vacheron-constantin-reference-4217-time-only-calatrava-style-dress-watch-1940s-1970s-complete-information-on-an-undervalued-classic/

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/finds/peach-dial-14800ba-audemars-piguet-royal-oak/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-aquanaut-5060a-the-90s-start-of-something-new-kind-of

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-aquanaut-reference-5065a

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/iwc/9240-ingenieur-perpetual-calendar-jumbo-yellow-gold/

https://www.fratellowatches.com/into-the-archives-iwc-ingenieur-sl-jumbo-1832/

Erik & Max are joined this week by their second ever guest, Justin Hast. Justin is a great champion for watch enthusiasm, a presenter, consultant, and content monster for all things wristwatches. We drill down on his own collecting philosophy, ask what the ultimate Lange 1 is, discuss the importance of brand, and how we go about learning in a changing media landscape. Plus, we ask Justin to assemble a no-budget ultimate 3 watch roll. One not to miss here. 

Links Mentioned:

Ultimate Lange 1s:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/CH080223/45

https://hairspring.com/finds/101-027x-a-lange-sohne-lange-1/

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-dubail-white-gold

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/a-lange-sohne-lange1-soiree-110029-mop-white-gold

Collecting Philosophy:

https://hairspring.com/finds/3705-iwc-ceramic-flieger/

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/a-lange-sohne/140-035-zeitwerk-lumen-phantom-platinum/

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/a-lange-sohne/414-026-1815-chronograph-boutique-edition-white-gold/

https://hairspring.com/finds/fp-journe-vagabondage-iii-in-pink-gold/

https://watchesbysjx.com/2021/12/patek-philippe-5236p-in-line-perpetual-calendar-review.html

Independents and Brand:

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/laurent-ferrier/galet-classic-micro-rotor-for-hodinkee-titanium/

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/ressence/type-1-slim-hod-limited-edition-for-hodinkee-titanium/

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/mbf/legacy-machine-lm2-titanium/

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/de-bethune/db-kind-of-two-jumping-gmt-titanium/

https://anomawatches.com/

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/fp-journe/octa-calendrier-pink-gold/

https://hairspring.com/finds/1-of-20-h-moser-cie-funky-blue-endeavor-tourbillon-concept/

Media Landscape:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-note-on-the-future-of-hodinkee

3 Questions:

https://monochrome-watches.com/introducing-c-by-romain-gauthier-titanium-edition-integrated-bracelet-luxury-sports-watch-specs-price/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-bulgari-aluminium-gmt

https://hairspring.com/finds/101-027x-a-lange-sohne-lange-1/

https://www.fratellowatches.com/vacheron-constantin-historiques-american-1921-a-very-pleasant-platinum-surprise/

https://hairspring.com/finds/f-p-journe-elegante-titalyt/

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/finds/cartier-cpcp-tank-a-guichets-in-rose-gold-2/

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/chopard/luc-qf-revolution-steel/

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/vacheron-constantin-jumping-hours-platinum

Erik & Max are back to it, asking which references have languished most over time and, more importantly, why? No manufactures are safe. We ask why the Santos got overweight, how Lange implemented cost-cutting, why the Freccione hand doesn’t make sense on a modern dial, and ask if Breguet are even alive? Finally, a few tips to make your watch photography sing. 

Links Mentioned:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CwNlerIuPA3/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vintage-audemars-piguet-reference-5516-perpetual-calendar

Reference Punts:

Lange Annual Calendars:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-saxonia-annual-calendar-in-platinum

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-sohne-1815-annual-calendar-review

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/a-lange-sohne/330-026-saxonia-annual-calendar-white-gold/

Cartier Santos:

https://www.cartier.com/en-us/watches/collections/santos-de-cartier/

https://hairspring.com/finds/burgundy-dial-2960-cartier-santos-carree/

Breguet:

https://hairspring.com/finds/3357-breguet-tourbillon/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-breguet-type-xx-type-20

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-breguet-classique-chronometrie-7727

Rolex Explorer IIs:

https://www.watchprosite.com/rolex/the-evolution-of-the-freccione/732.574096.3563066/

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/rolex/16550-cream-panna-dial-explorer-ii-steel/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-rolex-explorer-ii-ref-226570-in-both-polar-and-black

Only Wrist:

http://www.5513mattedial.com/5512/About.html

https://blancpainblog.com/timepieces/fifty-fathoms/a-cross-generational-family-gathering/

Erik & Max attempt to answer a deceivingly deep listener query: what makes a given movement great? In a conversation that spans from column wheels, Valjoux VZ Audemars Piguets, and the in-house obsession, we attempt to answer. Then, Max asks a fairly impossible question: if you were given carte blanche to design any watch from any watchmaker, what would you do? Plus, an Only Wrist for a radiologist. 

Links Mentioned:

Chronograph Points:

https://revolutionwatch.com/rules-chronograph-engagement/

https://www.watchprosite.com/a.-lange-and-s%C3%B6hne/how-column-wheel-chronographs-work-notably-the-lange-l951-movements-/10.1026673.7293393/

https://watchesbysjx.com/2023/04/in-depth-fp-journe-centigraphe-movement.html

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-gronefeld-1941-gronograaf-the-first-ever-chronograph-from-the-gronefeld-brothers

Beauty:

https://le-monde-edmond.com/audemars-piguet-5516/

https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/patek-philippe-lot-154-259

https://www.watchprosite.com/vacheron-constantin/for-the-pleasure-of-the-eyes-vacheron-constantin-minute-repeater-skeleton-/14.1576206.15603611/

https://www.fratellowatches.com/greubel-forsey-hand-made-1-grail/

Technical Prowess:

https://hairspring.com/finds/26586ip-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-rd2/

JLC 920:

https://revolutionwatch.com/i-am-legend-the-jaeger-lecoultre-calibre-920/

https://watchesbysjx.com/2020/12/04

Legends:

https://wornandwound.com/chronography-4-lemania-5100/

https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/reymond-valjoux-chronograph-guide-history

https://revolutionwatch.com/the-complete-history-of-the-amazing-lemania-chronograph-calibre-2310/

Bad Movements:

https://www.watchprosite.com/page-wf.forumpost/fi-17/ti-1421081/dv-true/wf.responses.open_bLoB_s-0/

https://www.watchprosite.com/patek-philippe/when-did-patek-finish-quality-change--moderator-edit-it-hasn-t-changed-/11.1555431.15271751/

https://perezcope.com/2021/08/22/revisting-panerais-pam-of-worms/

Designing Any Watch from Any Watchmaker:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-rolex-8171-padellone-moonphase

https://www.phillips.com/article/11398883/the-bao-dai-rolex

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/akrivia-ak06-steel-watch

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jean-pierre-hagmann-casemaker-rexhep-rexhepi-akrivia-geneva-2022

Only Wrist:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/jaegerlecoultre/CH080119/91

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080319/26

Erik & Max are discussing just what value means in watches and relating it to price in a wide ranging discussion which covers Black Bays, 2499s, early Journes, and 5711 bracelets. Then, a little chat around lessons in watches that can only be learned the hard way. Plus, what is the correct watch for a son of the Sultan of Brunei?

Links Mentioned:

Price Vs. Value:

https://revolutionwatch.com/eric-claptons-patek-philippe-white-gold-5970-with-brick-bracelet/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tudor-black-bay-fifty-eight-is-not-a-submariner-alternative

https://hairspring.com/finds/first-series-beyer-3940j-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar/

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/patek-philippe-3940

https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2024/06/24/the-strange-journey-of-john-lennons-stolen-patek-phillippe-watch

https://www.phillips.com/article/112525780/a-beginners-guide-to-the-world-of-fp-journe

https://www.phillips.com/detail/rexhep-rexhepi/CH080224/58

https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/CH080122/187

Things You Can Only Learn the Hard Way:

https://revolutionwatch.com/vintage-watch-repair-watchmaker-interview/

https://hairspring.com/finds/schumacher-legends-the-most-rolex-speedmaster-ever-made/

Only Wrist:

https://www.richardmille.com/historical-models/rm-020-tourbillon-pocket-watch

https://www.forbes.com/sites/robertanaas/2018/02/01/meet-the-373000-erotic-watch-ulysse-nardins-nsfw-classic-voyeur/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/purnell-escape-ii-carbon-and-escape-ii-all-black-introducing

https://thekeystone.com/products/corum-yellow-gold-rolls-royce-mechanical-watch-ref-55595

It’s a collection-building gauntlet this week; Erik & Max limit themselves to 3 watches, 3 handers, and the Holy Trinity. Prepare for a surprising degree of variance. And then a small interview with Max to learn a bit more about his background and an Only Wrist for an Art Thief. Plus, just where is Aldrin’s Speedmaster today? 

Links Mentioned:

Bugatti Tourbillon:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PClxnRzIE4g

Three-Hand, Three-Watch Collection from the Holy Trinity for 200K US:

Vacheron Constantin:

https://us.arbitro.shop/products/vacheron-constantin-round-6562-steel-silver-dial

https://hairspring.com/finds/vacheron-constantin-square-222-automatic/

Audemars Piguet:

https://hairspring.com/finds/4100ba-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-iii/

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/audemars-piguet/4332ba-royal-oak-yellow-gold/

(Correction: 4332 is 36.5 not 37)

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/audemars-piguet/5402-tropical-dial-royal-oak-c-series-steel/

(Ladies ref. is 8638)

https://hairspring.com/finds/burgundy-dial-25720pt-audemars-piguet-star-wheel-2/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-ap-remaster02

Patek Philippe:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-2526-and-why-its-a-watch-to-pay-attention-to

https://www.phillips.com/article/135827007/patek-philippe-2597-vintage-travel-gmt-auction-results-guide

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippes-travel-time-legacy

Honorable Mentions:

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/audemars-piguet/5402-tropical-dial-royal-oak-c-series-steel/

https://collectability.com/product/patek-philippe-white-gold-calatrava-ref-570g-2/

https://hairspring.com/finds/2508-patek-philippe-calatrava/

https://hairspring.com/finds/beyer-dial-3417-patek-philippe-amagnetic/

Only Wrist:

https://www.craftandtailored.com/products/1965-breitling-navitimer-gold-cap-ref-806-twin-jets-gilt-dial

https://hairspring.com/finds/5970r-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-chronograph/

https://sub.rescapement.com/p/six-of-the-most-intriguing-missing

Erik & Max tour through some of the more significant innovations ever in the history of watchmaking to ask, ‘Where are all the innovations?’ Including conversations around silicon, dubious 3940s, and trench watches. Then we invite a Rolex AD to come give a peer behind the curtain of Rolex to see how things really work. Plus, an Only Wrist to save Boeing.

Links Mentioned:

Innovations:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_watches

https://wornandwound.com/watchmakers-bench-what-makes-it-tick-part-3-keyless-works-and-the-hand-setting-mechanism/

https://hairspring.com/finds/740-036-a-lange-sohne-datograph-perpetual-tourbillon/

https://monochrome-watches.com/history-automatic-watch-first-automatic-pocket-watch-first-automatic-wristwatch-technical-perspective/

https://www.windvintage.com/blog/2022/9/7/the-oyster-story

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-modern-watch-escapement-and-how-it-got-that-way

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/zenith-defy-inventor-introducing

https://www.phillips.com/article/120989115/a-guide-to-the-patek-philippe-advanced-research-series

3 Questions:

https://speedmaster101.com/

https://goldammer.me/products/omega-seamaster-deville-18k

https://www.gronefeld.com/collection/1941-principia/white-gold-br-or-br-stainless-steel-5/

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/gronefeld/1941-principia-sydel-sydel-edition-steel/

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/mbf/legacy-machine-lm2-titanium/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/all-three-versions-of-the-new-mbandf-lm101-2021-edition

https://www.phillips.com/detail/mbf/CH080121/226?fromSearch=hodinkee%20&searchPage=1

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/buy-voutilinen-prototype-vingt8-platinum-watch

https://hairspring.com/finds/green-don-bezel-2998-3-omega-speedmaster/

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/finds/3947-breguet-classique-rattrapante/

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/omega/105-012-65-tropical-dial-speedmaster-steel/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Je-07hM0sTo

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/breitling/806-valjoux-72-aopa-navitimer-steel/

What does the Rolex 6238 black dial have in common with the Zenith 135? Why was Erik wrong to judge a green 5711? And what does Max think the first person to step foot on mars should wear for the occasion? All this and more, with a brief interrogation this week. 

Links Mentioned:

The Gentlemen:

https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/article/the-gentlemen-watches-2024 

Q-Ships:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Q-ship

Q-Watches: 

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/does-great-movement-finishing-mean-a-great-watch

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/zenith-caliber-135-observatoire-limited-edition-voutilainen-phillips-2022

https://hairspring.com/finds/zenith-x-voutilainen-x-phillips-calibre-135-o/

https://www.ablogtowatch.com/laurent-ferrier-galet-classic-tourbillon-double-spiral-watch-review/

https://le-monde-edmond.com/in-depth-review-rolex-6238-pre-daytona/

https://hairspring.com/finds/philippe-dufour-simplicity/

Only Wrist:

https://revolutionwatch.com/cartier-a-santos-story/

https://www.akrivia.com/watch/tourbillon-chronographe-monopoussoir/

Erik & Max attempt to answer the question, ‘What separates good finishing from bad finishing?’ It is a question that requires them to go through all the various finishing techniques you’re likely to see in detail, explain why the Le Mans caseback is, sort of, ugly, and ask if you should care about inner angles. Plus, what should Indiana Jones have worn in Raiders of the Lost Ark?

Links Mentioned:

Memorial Day Article & Great Historic Watch Accounts:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/through-watches-those-who-have-died-in-service-of-their-country-are-remembered

https://www.instagram.com/niccoloy/

https://www.instagram.com/watchesofespionage/

Finishing: 

https://perezcope.com/2021/08/08/panerai-in-house-movements-a-pam-of-worms/

Côtes de Genève:

https://www.watchprosite.com/horological-meandering/what-makes-for-really-good-c%C3%B4tes-de-gen%C3%A8ve-/17.1298116.11050241/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/up-close-and-personal-with-the-2023-rolex-le-mans-daytona-ref-126529ln#&gid=1&pid=14

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/philippe-dufour-crafts-watches

https://monochrome-watches.com/laurent-ferrier-galet-classic-tourbillon-double-spiral-reviewing-an-understated-masterpiece-photos-specs-and-price/

Anglage:

Flat 45-degree Anglage:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-omega-speedmaster-professional-moonwatch-master-chronometer-with-co-axial-caliber-3861#&gid=1&pid=4

Bercé or Bombé Style:

https://www.acollectedman.com/pages/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-two

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/watch-spotting-kari-voutilainen-interview#&gid=1&pid=8

Zero Chamfering:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/grand-seiko-hi-beat-36000-gmt-limited-edition-sbgj227-peacock-hands-on#&gid=1&pid=7

Matte or Frosted Bridges:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/with-the-romain-gauthier-logical-one-in-white-gold

https://watchesbysjx.com/2022/09/sylvain-pinaud-origine-review.html

https://watchesbysjx.com/2020/06/lange-sohne-handwerkskunst-reference-guide.html

Skeletonization:

https://hairspring.com/finds/43032-vacheron-constantin-skeleton-quantieme-perpetuel-platinum/

Black Polish:

https://monochrome-watches.com/hands-on-petermann-bedat-reference-2941-split-seconds-chronograph-specs-price/

https://hairspring.com/finds/kikuchi-nakagawa-murakumo/

Examples:

No Finishing Valjoux 7731:

https://thewatchspotblog.com/breitling-superocean-ref-2005-valjoux-cal-7731/

Industrially Finished Omega 3861:

https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watch-omega-speedmaster-moonwatch-professional-co-axial-master-chronometer-chronograph-42-mm-31030425001002

Vintage Hand Finished Patek Philippe Calibre 12-20:

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/patek-philippe/592-salmon-dial-calatrava-steel/

https://revolutionwatch.com/history-of-the-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-chronograph/

Traditional Finishing Style Performed Today:

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/philippe-dufour-grande-et-petite-sonnerie

Contemporary, More Innovative Finishing:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2023/07/petermann-bedat-reference-2941-split-seconds-chronograph-review.html

https://watchesbysjx.com/2018/04/introducing-the-romain-gauthier-insight-micro-rotor-in-black-titanium.html

16/1860:

https://hairspring.com/finds/16-1860-2-chopard-luc-calibre-1-96-2/

Only Wrist:

https://hairspring.com/exclusives/eberhard/11538-scientigraf-steel/

https://hairspring.com/finds/us-navy-tornek-rayville-tr-900/