What’s after neo-vintage yet before contemporary watches? Quite a lot as it turns out. Erik & Max set themselves the challenge of uncovering some of the great references that might go over looked, as they predate watch media as we know it. And it’s not all high-flying independents. Picks range from multiple examples under 10K (some under 5K, even) all the way to, yes, the crazy ones. Regardless, and all across the spectrum, there are some magnificent watches from this time that perhaps are still a touch overlooked. Plus, an only wrist for a marine biologist in a salmon hatchery. 

Links Mentioned:

Legend Diver:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-longines-legend-diver

Original ref. 7150 Legend Diver:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/highly-tropical-longines-legend-diver-7150

3575.20 Blued Speedy Moonphase:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/3575-20-omega-speedmaster-moonphase

Reissued Alaska ‘Space Coconut’:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/omega-speedmaster-alaska-project

Actual Original Alaska II Prototype:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/145-022-alaska-ii-prototype-omega-speedmaster

Piaget 15933:

https://hairspring.com/products/15933-onyx-skeletonized-chronograph-yellow-gold

5101:

https://quillandpad.com/2021/12/24/patek-philippe-reference-5101-magnum-opus-with-concealed-ten-day-tourbillon/

Philippe Stern’s Own Observatory Tourbillon 3699:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/journal/a-brief-guide-to-the-patek-philippe-1563-split-seconds-and-3699-observatory-tourbillon

The Lapis and Onyx Subs:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/lapis-dial-16618-rolex-submariner

https://www.instagram.com/p/BTMf2kkhqEA/

First Gen Zeitwerk Lumen (anchor bridge in second photo):

https://hairspring.com/products/140-035-zeitwerk-lumen-phantom-platinum

Contemporary Bridge (also second photo):

https://hairspring.com/products/148-038-zeitwerk-date-white-gold

6159G, Patek’s Sapphire Dial:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-patek-philippe-6159g

101.050:

https://watchesbysjx.com/2016/03/a-detailed-look-at-the-ultra-rare-lange-1-honey-gold.html

403.025X ‘Pisa’ Dato:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/CH080223/138

VC 30010:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6450389

VC 30030:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/important-watches-9/reference-30030-a-pink-gold-skeletonized-minute

VC 30020:

https://www.phillips.com/article/137956122/an-underrated-complicated-90s-icon-the-vacheron-constantin-ref-30020

25810OR:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/25810or-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-120th-anniversary

5049P:

https://www.watchprosite.com/patek-philippe/latest-addition--ref-5049p/11.1467591.13835786/

https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2019/watches-l19070/lot.71.html

5139P:

https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6378199

3670A:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-the-patek-philippe-3670a-a-new-chronograph-in-st

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/197902

5959R:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5959r-patek-philippe-split-seconds-monopusher

(Erik here, I misspoke when I said 5970 as many people thinking first in-house chronograph movement, meant to say 5170)

5950A:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/197334

DB15:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/de-bethune/158064

T10:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-with-the-fp-journe-t-10-anniversary-tourbillon

Holland & Holland CS:

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/fpjourne-chronometre-holland-holland

FP Journe’s Own Post Warning About Wall Clocks:

https://www.instagram.com/p/DGflvsFP7_W/

Only Wrist:

16610:

https://www.41watch.com/en/journal/buyers-guides/the-rolex-submariner-kermit-exploring-the-16610lv-and-its-variations

1680:

https://hairspring.com/products/1680-submariner-steel

16660 Triple Six:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/mk2-matte-16660-rolex-sea-dweller

5066A:

https://hairspring.com/products/5066a-aquanaut-japan-blue-limited-edition-steel