Hairspring

Hairspring

By HairspringSociety & Culture
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Hairspring episodes

  • Episode 53: Undervalued Speedmasters, Why Independent Chronographs Matter, and the Le Mans Market

    It’s start, stop, reset this week, as Erik & Max explore the ins and outs chronographs. The covers the Speedmasters we should all be talking about but aren’t, the true cost and impressiveness of independent chronographs, and what’s going on with the Le Mans. 


    Greubel Hand Made 2:


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-greubel-forsey-hand-made-2


    Speedmaster Intro:


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/understanding-the-omega-speedmaster-professional


    2915:


    https://speedmaster101.com/2915-2/


    2998:


    https://hairspring.com/finds/2998-2-straight-lug-dark-brown-omega-speedmaster/


    145.022 ‘Apollo Soyuz’:


    https://www.watchfid.com/watch/omega-speedmaster-145-022-apollo-soyuz/


    Apollo Soyuz 35th:


    https://hairspring.com/finds/omega-speedmaster-apollo-soyuz-35th-anniversary/


    BA 345.0802:


    https://hairspring.com/finds/ba-345-0802-omega-speedmaster-2/


    Soleil Ed White:


    https://hairspring.com/finds/soleil-blue-metallic-dial-105-003-65-omega-speedmaster/


    Grey 2998:


    https://hairspring.com/finds/grey-dial-2998-5-omega-speedmaster/


    Independents:


    MB&F Sequential:


    https://watchesbysjx.com/2022/06/mbf-legacy-machine-sequential-evo


    Grönefeld Grönograaf:


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-gronefeld-1941-gronograaf-the-first-ever-chronograph-from-the-gronefeld-brothers


    FP Journe:


    https://watchesbysjx.com/2022/02/guide-fp-journe-octa-chronographe-watch4moi


    https://watchesbysjx.com/2023/04/in-depth-fp-journe-centigraphe-movement


    https://hairspring.com/exclusives/fp-journe/chronographe-monopoussoir-rattrapante-red-gold/


    Le Mans:


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/just-because-two-rolex-le-mans-daytona


    EVA-Worn Speedmaster:


    https://hairspring.com/finds/space-eva-worn-omega-speedmaster-from-gennady-padalka/


    Only Wrist:


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-mbandf-lm-sequential-flyback


    https://hairspring.com/finds/charles-frodsham-double-impulse-chronometer-2/

    57 min
  • Episode 52: PCC, The Greatest Bloodline in Watches

    Buckle up, as Erik & Max cover a complete chronology of Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph references this week. What separates the more desirable ones from the less but still very desirable ones? From 1518 to 5270, including 2499 vs 3970, this episode covers all points you need to start having informed conversations on the topic. Historic context, production numbers, differentiations between series, pointers and tips, it’s all in here. And to end it all, a debate: which is best? 


    222 in Steel:


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-vacheron-constantin-222-steel


    Vintage 222 in Steel for Comparison:


    https://hairspring.com/exclusives/vacheron-constantin/44018-222-steel/


    PCC:


    1518 Pink on Pink:


    https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080122/213


    1518 Steel:


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-1518-steel


    2499 Intro:


    https://www.phillips.com/article/120019235/a-guide-to-the-patek-philippe-ref-2499-the-art-of-improving-upon-perfection


    Vichet:


    https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080223/186


    Odd Crossover Example:


    https://www.phillips.com/article/52322742/the-watch-that-shouldnt-exist-but-totally-does-three-times-over


    2499 Fourth Series:


    https://hairspring.com/finds/fourth-series-2499-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-chronograph/


    3970 Intro:


    https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/a-collectors-guide-the-3970


    3970 First Series:


    https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/the-goat-collection-watches-treasures-from-tom-brady/reference-3970-first-series-a-yellow-gold


    3970 Second Series:


    https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6515265


    3970 Third / Fourth:


    https://hairspring.com/finds/fourth-series-patek-philippe-3970ep/


    5970 Intro:


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-guide-to-collecting-the-patek-philippe-5970-perpetual-calendar-chronograph


    Some Crazy 5970 Orders:


    https://revolutionwatch.com/eric-claptons-patek-philippe-white-gold-5970-with-brick-bracelet/


    5270 Intro:


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5270g-review


    Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon:


    https://hairspring.com/finds/740-056-a-lange-sohne-datograph-perpetual-tourbillon-2/


    Only Wrist:


    Tiffany Day-Date:


    https://amsterdamvintagewatches.com/shop/rolex-day-date-1803-tiffany-co/


    105.035:


    https://www.acollectedman.com/products/lange_saxonia-darth-platinum-105-035


    5070:


    https://hairspring.com/finds/saatchi-london-5070p-patek-philippe-chronograph/

    1 hr 16 min
  • Episode 51: Strap Etiquette and Why Roman Numerals Often Fail

    Have you ever wondered if it’s appropriate to wear a dive watch on leather? This week, Erik & Max have the final answer. Plus, a Daytona on alligator? What about a VC 1921 Historiques on NATO? Contrast stitching? What faux pas exist in strap wearing if any? This, plus an analysis on Roman numerals, appropriate use, and critique of their frequent misuse. Finally, an Only Wrist to help out AP. 


    Zuck:


    https://www.instagram.com/wristcheck/p/DAdsAr4Nf8l/?img_index=1


    https://www.gq.com/story/mark-zuckerberg-greubel-forsey-almost-one-million-handmade-watch


    Combs:


    https://www.instagram.com/niccoloy/p/C5hMaNFhsZu/


    Lange On a NATO Account:


    https://www.instagram.com/lange.on.a.nato/


    Kristian Haagen’s Incredible Alligator Nato:


    https://www.instagram.com/p/DEUHw4WsVWX/?img_index=1


    14800 Royal Oak on Strap:


    https://hairspring.com/finds/peach-dial-14800ba-audemars-piguet-royal-oak/


    6007:


    https://www.patek.com/en/collection/calatrava/6007G-001


    5373:


    https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/5373P-001


    Aquanaut Strap Guillotine:


    https://www.instagram.com/alekswatches/reel/CyyVMRuNyDO/


    Removable Bracelet Odysseus:


    https://hairspring.com/exclusives/a-lange-sohne/363-179-odysseus-first-generation-steel/


    Roman Numeral Watches:


    https://hairspring.com/finds/first-generation-403-035-a-lange-sohne-datograph/


    https://hairspring.com/finds/brown-guilloche-dial-voutilainen-observatoire/


    https://hairspring.com/finds/laurent-ferrier-classic-moon/


    https://hairspring.com/finds/2007-commissioned-cartier-crash/


    https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/rolex-oysterquartz-datejust-guide


    https://thekeystone.com/products/patek-philippe-platinum-annual-calendar-power-reserve-watch-ref-5056


    Only Wrist:


    5516:


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vintage-audemars-piguet-reference-5516-perpetual-calendar


    5072 in Steel:


    https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/1950s-audemars-piguet-oversized-ref-5072-with-small-signature


    Remaster02:


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-ap-remaster02


    5554:


    https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/royal-oak-25554


    Ader:


    https://www.ader-paris.fr/en/lot/142763/23436868-audemars-piguet-pre-model-1530-ndeg-44644-sold-march-1-1942

    57 min
  • Episode 50: Ben Clymer

    Today marks the 50th episode of the Hairspring podcast, for which Erik & Max are extremely honored to be joined by Ben Clymer, founder of Hodinkee. In a very candid and wide-ranging chat, we cover the arc of Hodinkee so far, Ben as a collector today, and his dream unlimited-budget 3 watch collection—amongst much else. This includes thoughts on what’s wrong with influencers, views on condition, and just how handsome Rexhep actually is. This was both a privilege and a real joy to record. 50 episodes ago, we couldn’t have imagined how great a time we’d have both making this and hearing how you all interface with our meandering nonsense. Fifty more absurd debates and Only Wrists coming at you shortly, thank you for the ride and a special thanks to Ben here for taking the time. Enjoy. 


    Links Mentioned:


    Daytona:


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-rolex-daytona


    ‘Blackout’ 14270 Read:


    https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=926666


    2526:


    https://hairspring.com/finds/2526-patek-philippe-calatrava-white-gold/


    6240:


    https://hairspring.com/finds/small-floating-dial-6240-rolex-daytona/


    2915 Guide:


    https://speedmaster101.com/2915-2/


    True Confessions of a Watch Geek:


    https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2017/03/20/confessions-of-a-watch-geek


    Simon Brette in Pink Gold:


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-simon-brette-chronometre-aristans-rose


    Most Complicated VC:


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/video-vacheron-constantin-berkley-grand-comp


    Hodinkee MB&F:


    https://hairspring.com/exclusives/mbf/lm101-for-hodinkee-steel/


    Hodinkee VC CdV:


    https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/NY080118/72


    3 Questions:


    Googling Recently:


    https://hairspring.com/finds/5004a-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-split-seconds/


    https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches/reference-1436-a-rare-pink-gold-split-seconds


    https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080524/25?fromSearch=3970


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/eric-claptons-patek-philippe-2499


    https://watchesbysjx.com/2016/05/a-detailed-look-at-eric-claptons-one-of-a-kind-patek-philippe-ref-5004p.html


    Last to Wow:


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-simon-brette-chronometre-aristans-rose


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-rexhep-rexhepi-cc2-ruby


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-greubel-forsey-signature-1-2


    3 Watch Roll:


    Briggs Cunningham 565:


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-incredible-watches-and-cars-of-briggs-cunningham


    6264 Lemon:


    https://hairspring.com/finds/lemon-paul-newman-6264-rolex-daytona-2/


    RRCC2:


    https://www.acollectedman.com/pages/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-two


    Pour le Mérite Tourbillon:


    https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-1815/lange-tourbillon-pour-le-merite/


    Only Wrist:


    https://hairspring.com/exclusives/patek-philippe/3940p-perpetual-calendar-second-series-platinum/


    https://hairspring.com/finds/laurent-ferrier-classic-moon/


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-ref-5270j-001-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-introducing

    1 hr 24 min
  • Episode 49: Enthusiast vs Collector vs Professional

    In a bit of a first, this week is a philosophical rumination. What does it really mean to be into watches and why the hell should any of us be where we are? If you want to be a professional and make it a career, what options are available to you? And what’s the difference between a dealer and a retailer anyway? Erik & Max attempt to answer and so much more. Plus, if you’re bartending and want to start conversations, what watch should you wear?


    Links Mentioned:


    Le Mans Daytona:


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/just-because-two-rolex-le-mans-daytona


    Stanford Marshmallow Experiment:


    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stanford_marshmallow_experiment


    Only Wrist:


    https://hairspring.com/finds/mark-2-tropical-dial-1665-double-red-rolex-sea-dweller/


    https://hairspring.com/finds/p810-cornavin-amf-diver/

    (Correction: Seconds hand, minute hand, and jump hour, misspoke)


    https://hairspring.com/finds/monoblocco-3525-rolex-chronograph/


    https://hairspring.com/finds/concorde-1675-rolex-gmt-master/

    1 hr 7 min
  • Episode 48: Time ‘Only’?

    Today’s independents aren’t battling over complication, they’re battling to perfect simplicity. Erik & Max asked you for your most expressive formats of Time Only watchmaking. Now, it’s time to relay some of the best three-handers the world has ever seen and why. This reaches far beyond the known models to Tortoise automatons, dad watches, 530s, Elegantes, and Klings. 


    Links Mentioned:


    Max’s Goldberger Correction:


    https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-35/lot-110


    Greatest Number of Votes:


    https://www.phillips.com/detail/philippe-dufour/CH080221/115?fromSearch=simplicity


    https://hairspring.com/finds/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-rrcc1/


    https://hairspring.com/finds/2526-patek-philippe-calatrava-white-gold/


    Mid-Range Votes:


    FPJ Debate:


    CS:


    https://hairspring.com/exclusives/fp-journe/chronometre-souverain-pink-gold/


    Vagabondage:


    https://hairspring.com/finds/fp-journe-vagabondage-ii-platinum/


    https://hairspring.com/finds/fp-journe-vagabondage-iii-in-pink-gold/


    Remaining Calatravas:


    530:


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-reference-530-most-important-2017


    https://le-monde-edmond.com/patek-530-black-dial/


    2508:


    https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080224/131


    565:


    https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080122/280


    570:


    https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080319/43


    Tool Watches:


    https://hairspring.com/finds/king-sub-6200-rolex-submariner/


    https://hairspring.com/finds/1-of-150-blancpain-barakuda-fifty-fathoms/


    https://hairspring.com/finds/mark-3-dial-1016-rolex-explorer/


    https://hairspring.com/finds/honeycomb-dial-6350-rolex-explorer-2/


    https://perezcope.com/2017/03/17/the-history-of-panerai-watches-at-a-glance/


    Cartier:


    https://hairspring.com/finds/cartier-cpcp-tank-a-guichets-in-rose-gold/


    https://hairspring.com/exclusives/cartier/prive-tank-normale-platinum/


    https://hairspring.com/finds/salmon-dial-nso-cartier-crash/


    https://hairspring.com/finds/78086-cartier-paris-tank-louis-grande-with-beads-of-rice-bracelet/


    https://hairspring.com/exclusives/cartier/tank-cintree-100th-anniversary-yellow-gold/


    LF:


    https://hairspring.com/exclusives/laurent-ferrier/galet-traveller-red-gold/


    Chopard 1.96:


    https://hairspring.com/finds/16-1860-2-chopard-luc-calibre-1-96-2/


    Lange:


    260.028 PLM:


    https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-richard-lange/richard-lange-pour-le-merite/


    239.050 Homage to FA:


    https://hairspring.com/exclusives/a-lange-sohne/239-050-1815-thin-homage-to-fa-lange-honey-gold/


    222.048 Side Step:


    https://www.europeanwatch.com/blog/a-lange-and-sohne-1815-side-step-222-048-wempe-review


    Single Replies:


    5072:


    https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/1950s-audemars-piguet-oversized-ref-5072-with-small-signature


    https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/interview-raul-pages


    https://www.haldimann.swiss/en/


    Tortoise:


    https://pageswatches.com/automaton-tortoise/


    Only Wrist:


    This has to be the guy:


    https://hairspring.com/exclusives/fp-journe/elegante-48-titanium/


    https://www.phillips.com/article/106928748/interview-christian-klings-on-psychology-the-calming-effect-of-geneva-stripes-and-georges-80th


    https://quillandpad.com/2023/06/17/collecting-and-patronage-two-unique-watches-from-independent-watchmaker-christian-klings-reprise/

    1 hr 10 min
  • Episode 47: Modern Watches, Excluding Independents, That We Love

    Erik & Max attempt to defy the tropes of the podcast, opting for something a bit out of character. This week they attempt to give some examples of non-independent modern watches which are quite compelling. There are picks under 10K, all the way up to crazy values. Plus, a bit of a quick auction chat. From an Egyptian President's Day-Date to a Zenith G381, it’s all in here. 


    Links Mentioned:


    https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches-2/reference-1803-day-date-a-yellow-gold-automatic


    https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/important-watches-5/day-date-reference-1803-a-white-gold-wristwatch


    https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6515279


    Modern Watches:


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-chopard-luc-xps-luc-qualite-fleurier


    Attainable Watches:


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-omega-fois-speedmaster-2024


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-porsche-design-chronograph-1-in-titanium-carbide


    https://revolutionwatch.com/introducing-the-zenith-a3818-the-airweight-cover-girl-for-revolution-the-rake/


    https://shop.hodinkee.com/blogs/journal/zenith-el-primero-revival-g381-yellow-gold


    Random Apartment in Zenith Debut:


    https://limited.hodinkee.com/zenith/


    Mid-Market Watches:


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-rolex-daytona


    https://hairspring.com/finds/126509-rolex-cosmograph-daytona/


    https://hairspring.com/exclusives/vacheron-constantin/7910v-everest-overseas-dual-time-titanium/


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-grey-nato-episode-85-a-chat-with-adventurer-cory-richards


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-reverso-tribute-chronograph-in-pink-gold


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-jaeger-lecoultre-reverso-monoface-in-steel-now-back-with-a-smaller-case-live-pics


    High End:


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-chopard-luc-1860-flying-tourbillon-28-years-in-the-making


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-lange-datograph-handwerkskunst


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-lange-datograph-perpetual-tourbillon-honeygold-lumen


    https://hairspring.com/exclusives/a-lange-sohne/140-035-zeitwerk-lumen-phantom-platinum/


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-golden-ellipse-is-back-on-bracelet


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/weve-seen-the-blue-ceramic-ap-royal-oak-irl-and-heres-what-we-think


    5270 on Bracelet:


    https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/5270-1R-001


    5270 with ‘Chin’:


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5270g-review


    5970 Saatchi:


    https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2022/the-international-connoisseur-jewels-and-watches/reference-5970g-019-a-white-gold-perpetual


    Only Wrist:


    An Atrocious Datejust:

    https://cagau.com/product/rolex-datejust-41-oystersteel-jubilee-custom-diamond-set-covert-dial-green-gemstone-bezel/


    https://hairspring.com/finds/e853-jaeger-lecoultre-memovox/

    59 min
  • Episode 46: Building a 100K 3-Watch Collection That Must Go Up in Value, Plus New Year’s Watch Resolutions

    There is no way in which to avoid values when talking about serious watches; this week Erik & Max lean into that fact by building a collection around a bit of lighthearted speculation. Yes, that is faux pas behavior, but it is also a ton of fun. As a little bonus, they reflect on a year becoming more engrossed in watches to draw some resolutions for the coming year. Finally, an Only Wrist for Mr Gates. 


    Links Mentioned:


    MB&F Robo-man: 


    https://www.mbandf.com/people-spirit/collectibles/robotoys


    Ellipse Lighter:


    https://rareandfine.com/collectibles/ref-9507-blue-translucent-enamel-golden-ellipse-lighter/


    Building a 100K 3-Watch Collection That Must Go Up in Value:


    Complication Discussion:


    https://hairspring.com/finds/5040g-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar/


    https://hairspring.com/exclusives/a-lange-sohne/330-026-saxonia-annual-calendar-white-gold/


    Chronograph Discussion:


    https://hairspring.com/finds/green-don-bezel-2998-3-omega-speedmaster/


    https://speedmaster101.com/105-002-2/


    https://hairspring.com/finds/2915-2-broad-arrow-omega-speedmaster/


    https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/NY080118/72


    Intro to the 5070:


    https://www.phillips.com/article/125814992/patek-philippe-chronograph-5070-guide


    https://hairspring.com/exclusives/vacheron-constantin/47101-salmon-guilloche-dial-les-historiques-chronograph-platinum/


    (47101 caseback is snap, not screw, a small correction)


    Steel Sports Discussion:


    https://hairspring.com/exclusives/rolex/1603-vertically-brushed-dial-datejust-steel/


    https://hairspring.com/finds/20368-1-universal-geneve-polerouter/


    https://www.watchprosite.com/rolex/rolex-1665-sea-dweller-mk1-patent-pending-twins-/732.964148.6706998/


    https://hairspring.com/exclusives/vacheron-constantin/46003-222-steel-gold/


    https://hairspring.com/finds/black-dial-1019-rolex-milgauss-2/


    Only Wrist:


    (Edit I remembered incorrectly, it was 1 959 Bill crash tested not multiple vehicles))


    https://hairspring.com/finds/porcelain-floating-cosmograph-16528-rolex-daytona/


    https://hairspring.com/finds/1530-rolex-oyster-perpetual-date-4/

    1 hr 3 min
  • Episode 45: Common Misconceptions

    Erik & Max embark on a myth-busting soirée which knows no bounds. Is Rolex a Charity? Why was the platinum Day-Date never fluted? Should hands always match? Was the helium escape valve invented when Rolex worked with Comex? Hint: it wasn't Was the Minute Repeater invented for a blind Patek Philippe client? Plus, if you're dating at 36, what should you wear?


    Links Mentioned:


    Anault Spying:


    https://fortune.com/europe/2024/11/28/billionaire-bernard-arnault-court-completely-unaware-ex-spy-chief-abused-powers-protect-lvmh/


    https://www.lemonde.fr/en/france/article/2024/11/29/bernard-arnault-gives-witness-testimony-at-ex-spy-chief-trial-i-m-not-answering-these-stupid-questions_6734567_7.html


    Rolex Corporate Structure:


    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rolex


    Tantalum is Expensive (featuring Platinum):


    https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0890695520306246


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-pros-cons-cost-and-convoluted-history-of-platinum


    https://www.nytimes.com/2024/02/14/fashion/watches-dense-metal-tantalum.html


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-rolex-day-date-36mm-in-platinum-is-all-about-the-bezel


    Ceramic Horror Story:


    https://omegaforums.net/threads/can-someone-explain-omegas-ceramic-watch-cases.25204/page-2


    The Cartier Crash was Invented After a Car Crash:


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/how-the-cartier-crash-became-the-most-important-vintage-watch-of-2021


    Minute Repeaters Patek Philippe History:


    https://collectability.com/learn/collectability-in-depth-patek-philippe-minute-repeaters/


    Aquanaut Mismatch:


    https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/collectors-guide-patek-philippe-aquanaut


    Helium Escape Valve Was Invented with Comex:


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/this-cousteau-watch-may-be-the-most-important-of-all


    https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/rolex-omega-fight-over-comex


    https://perezcope.com/2020/02/25/the-doxa-hrv/


    Finishing as Functional:


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/does-great-movement-finishing-mean-a-great-watch


    Airport Security Scanners:


    https://www.the1916company.com/blog/can-your-watch-be-damaged-by-airport-security-scanners.html


    Red Gold vs Rose Gold:


    https://jackforster.substack.com/p/rose-gold-red-gold-pink-gold-whats


    LM2 Example:


    https://hairspring.com/exclusives/mbf/legacy-machine-lm2-titanium/


    Quick Summation of the Tourbillon:


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/what-does-a-tourbillon-actually-do


    Only Wrist:


    https://hairspring.com/exclusives/rolex/1675-gilt-exclamation-dial-gmt-master-steel/


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-collectors-guide-to-vintage-1970s-cartier-watches


    https://hairspring.com/exclusives/audemars-piguet/25594st-royal-oak-day-date-moonphase-steel/


    https://hairspring.com/exclusives/audemars-piguet/25657or-quantieme-perpetuel-mother-of-pearl-dial-pink-gold/


    https://hairspring.com/finds/italian-albino-3593-20-omega-speedmaster/


    https://hairspring.com/finds/urban-jurgensen-reference-2/

    (Detent, not double-impulse, misspoke)


    https://www.phillips.com/detail/derek-pratt-for-urban-jurgensen/CH080524/40

    1 hr 10 min
  • Episode 44: The Balance Cocks of 2000-2024

    In this episode, Erik & Max bring back the awards ceremony that is the Balance Cocks in a follow-up to our Most Significant Independents of the Last 25 Years episode (34). This is the same format, just with a much wider scope. Over the last 25 years of watchmaking, we award 1. The Most Beautiful Watch 2. The Ugliest 3. The Greatest Calibre 4. The Greatest Depreciation 5. The Greatest Value Watch 6. The Brand Which Has Progressed the Furthest. Plus, if you’re a Naval Submarine Commander, how should you replace your Submariner? 


    Links Mentioned:


    Blackwater Breitling:


    https://www.watchesofespionage.com/blogs/woe-dispatch/blackwater-breitling-the-story?srsltid=AfmBOopL2ufLLmqb4FlZfpi3cdkfpDoobjjtP-W7bcsCMT2vnFyn8zA-


    Hodinkee Black Bay:


    https://hairspring.com/finds/hodinkee-friends-family-79030-tudor-black-bay-58/


    The Dubious Asprey:


    https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches-2/reference-116518l-daytona-a-yellow-gold-automatic?locale=en


    The Balancecocks:


    Most Beautiful Watch of the Last 25 Years Nominations:


    https://hairspring.com/finds/gold-flux-dial-182-086-a-lange-sohne-little-lange-1/


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/breitling-designer-sylvain-berneron-sets-out-to-explore-asymmetry-on-his-own


    https://collectability.com/product/full-set-patek-philippe-limited-edition-saatchi-london-edition-ref-3970ep-046/


    https://hairspring.com/finds/saatchi-salmon-dial-patek-philippe-3940g/


    https://hairspring.com/finds/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-rrcc1/


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-with-the-fp-journe-t-10-anniversary-tourbillon


    Ugliest Watch of the Last 25 Years Nominations:


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/code-1159-audemars-piguet-introducing


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-black-panther-watch-live-pics-pricing


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-patek-philippe-cubitus-collection


    Cubitus AI Generated Ad:


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XisTUlhuEZ4


    Greatest Calibre of the Last 25 Years Nominations:


    https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/datograph-collectors-guide


    https://quillandpad.com/2021/12/05/why-i-bought-it-rexhep-rexhepi-akrivia-chronometre-contemporain/


    https://hairspring.com/exclusives/fp-journe/elegante-titanium/


    Greatest Depreciation of the Last 25 Years Nominations:


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-nautilus-5711-tiffany-blue-phillips-new-york-2021


    https://www.tagheuer.com/us/en/


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hodinkees-watch-of-the-year-and-the-winner-is


    https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/home.html


    Greatest Value Watch of the Last 25 Years Nominations:


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tudor-black-bay-fifty-eight-introducing


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/omega-speedmaster-caliber-321-stainless-steel-ed-white-introducing


    Brand Which Has Progressed the Furthest in 25 Years Nominations:


    https://www.fpjourne.com/en


    https://www.alange-soehne.com/dispatch


    Only Wrist:


    https://watchesbysjx.com/2020/08/ferdinand-berthoud-chronometre-fb-2re-review.html


    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/h-moser-pioneer-cylindrical-tourbillon-2022


    https://hairspring.com/finds/brown-guilloche-dial-voutilainen-observatoire/


    https://www.watchprosite.com/zenith/zenith-chronometre-caliber-135-o--yes-the-kari-voutilainen-famous-one-/


    https://www.watchprosite.com/zenith/zenith-chronometre-caliber-135-o--yes-the-kari-voutilainen-famous-one-/1123.1578721.15648191/


    https://hairspring.com/finds/turler-dial-166-052-omega-constellation-chronometer/


    https://hairspring.com/finds/2526-patek-philippe-calatrava-white-gold/

    1 hr 11 min

About Hairspring

From the publisher's feed

Hairspring's founder Erik Gustafson and enthusiast Max Braun bring you a meandering weekly-ish roundtable on watches and many other things.

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