In October of 2019, I hiked to a place called Panther Den Gap, up on the Tennessee–North Carolina line, looking for an old homestead I'd read about in a county history book. The trail was overgrown, the rhododendron closed in, and by the time I reached the gap, the light was wrong — that pale grey you get just before sundown when the sky goes flat. The cabin was still there, but the door was hanging open, and inside, someone had left a fire burning in the hearth and a single plate on the table, still warm. I waited. No one came back. But every time I looked out the window, I thought I saw a figure standing at the treeline, watching, and when I finally left, I found fresh boot prints in the mud — leading from the woods to the cabin door, none leading away. This is the story of what I found at Panther Den Gap, and what I still don't understand.