By following a few simple steps, we can give you some tips about building a simple wall shelf that will look good, be level, and still be on the wall the following day! The basic materials you'll need are brackets, glass paper, screws of a suitable type and length dependant on what you want to use the shelf for, the shelf itself and wall fixings. As for tools, you'll need a Centre punch, a hammer, hammer drill and drill bits for masonry and wood, marking gauge, a pencil, a suitable screwdriver, a spirit level, a steel rule, tape measure and a cable finder.

The type of wood you choose depends on what you want to use it for. A heavier load needs a stronger shelf. Check that your wall is strong enough to carry the weight of your shelf and its load. Your local DIY supplier will advise you on the correct shelf. Next you must choose the correct fixing for your wall. For most internal brick or concrete block plaster internal walls, use a strong plastic wall plug and wool screws: 3.2 mm or 5.5 mm are good.

Before you start revving the drill up, check the wall for cables using your cable and pipe finder, and mark the position of any cables or pipes. Move any furniture out of the way. You may want to put a dust sheet below where you plan to put the shelf, and have the hoover nearby. You are now three steps away from your fitted shelf .

Step 1 – Mark the wall where the bottom of the shelf will be. Make a horizontal line through this point, with a pencil and spirit level. If your spirit level is a short one, you may have to rest it on the edge of the shelf. Mark the length of the shelf on the horizontal line, then make the position of your brackets. You will need to get a span chart which advises on the span between brackets given the type of wood, the shelf thickness and the eventual shelf usage. For example, a hardwood shelf, 15mm thick to be used for heavy books would require a 450mm span between the brackets. Set the end brackets between 100 and 150mm in from the shelf ends. This will avoid the likelihood of a banana shaped shelf. Mark some vertical lines where the brackets will go.

Step 2 – Attach the Brackets, by holding one bracket against the wall, with a small piece of wood on the projecting arm. Align it with the vertical and horizontal lines of an end bracket. Make the screw holes on the wall with a bradawl. Use a hammer and centre punch to mark the screw positions. Then use a hammer drill and masonry bit to drill holes that suit the wall plugs. Insert the wall plugs and attach the brackets firmly to the wall. Fix the second bracket in the same way at the opposite end of the shelf. If you're fitting a long shelf and need a third centre bracket, use a line of thread between the two end brackets to line this up.

Step 3 – Screw the brackets to the shelf to secure the shelf and stop it tipping over. Now is the moment of truth, as you load up your new shelf

This step by step guide relates to a conventional pillar cold water tap, rather than a mixer or wall tap. The tools you will need are a screwdriver, an adjustable spanner, multi-grip pliers, a new washer or a washer and jumper unit.

Taps usually leak for three reasons: a faulty washer, a worn seat, gland packing/O rings need replacing. Make sure you buy the right washer and o-ring for your tap. The first thing to do is turn off the water supply, either at the isolating valves under the taps, but more likely at the main stopcock. Open the tap full on to drain away any water left in the pipe. It's a good tip to put the plug in the sink so that you don't lose any small parts down the plughole.

If the tap has a cover, remove the coloured red or Blue /hot or cold indicator button, undo the head retaining screw beneath and lift off the handle. If the tap in question doesn't have a cover, the nuts are more easily accessible. The main valve nut should be undone with an adjustable spanner. Another tip, to protect the nut against scratches when removing it, is to place a cloth between the nut and spanner. It's very important to hold on to the tap while undoing the nut, to stop the body of the tap turning rather than the nut. If this happens it can lead to leaks in the pipe work. Lift out the whole upper part of the tap, and remove the spindle or jumper value that carries the washer. Check the washer next. If it looks old and rough there is a good chance this will be the cause of the leak. If this is the case remove the old washer. This may be held in place by a nut, so hold the jumper valve with a small pair of pliers and undo the nut with a small spanner, and put on a new washer. You can use a new jumper valve with a washer already attached. Check the washer seat for wear, which will stop it making a perfect seal. A plastic seating grommet may be pushed in to make a new seat. Push the grommet into the hole. Replace the tap assembly in reverse order and screw the handle back down. This will bed in the grommet and a new seat. If the grommet is too large or small, the tap may leak.

If the tap is leaking from the spindle, the O ring could need replacing. Remove the spring or circlip from the spindle, screw out or tap out the spindle and replace the o ring. If you have any doubts at any stage of your DIYrepairs, consult a qualified plumber.

Replacing or upgrading your door handle can be a straight forward project, with a few simple steps to follow. When your choosing your new handle, unscrew your old one and take it to the store to compare sizes. You’ll need to be certain if your door is left side or right side opening, so that you get the handle for the right or left side of the door. To undertake the job, you’ll need the following tools – a new handle, a latch set with screws a drill and safety goggles.

Be careful to check that your new set of door handles comes complete with a latch, as sometimes they are sold separately. Getting your old handle off can sometimes be tricky. If it has screws on the cover plates, remove those to loosen the old knob. Otherwise you may have to look for a slot on the side of the handle that has a piece of metal sticking out of it. You can use the end of a flathead screwdriver to push in on the metal, and the old doorknob or handle will pop loose. Take off the handle to reveal the plate below. Find a part of the plate where it butts against the door. Wedge a flathead screwdriver in the slot, and twist the plate lightly to pop it off. Now the plate has gone, you should see the screws, which can be removed with a power drill. If using a drill, always remember the safety checklist.

Remove the original latch by taking out the screws with a power drill or screwdriver. Screw the new latch in, getting the screws hand tight at first, and tighten with a power drill or screwdriver. Time to put the new handles in place. Set the screws by hand as before. Ideally use a screwdriver to ensure you don’t overtighten the screws. Test the key if you have one, and make sure the door shuts and locks properly.

If you're looking for an alternative window covering to a curtain, roller blinds may be your answer. Often a daunting prospect to install, you can fit of one these if you follow this simple step by step guide. You'll need these 4 basic materials: a window blind, double sided tape, screws and wall fixings. Do consult the manufacturers instructions and any diagrams that come with the product. In terms of tools, you'll need the following: Electric Drill, drill bits including a masonry bit, screwdriver, a bradawl, a spirit level, steel tape measure, a pencil.

For the purposes of this HowTo video we are fitting a cord operated roller blind outside the window recess. The alternative is to fit it in to a window recess, but this may require it to be cut to size. You should decide where and how to hang the blind before you buy it. Measure the width and the drop, and take the measurements with you when visiting the store.

Your brackets can be either be face fixed or top fixed, using either the side fixing holes or the top ones. When positioning the blind, never bore close to the edge of plaster or brickwork – always allow a minimum clearance of 50mm. Mark the position of the screw holes. Then use a drill and masonry bit to suit the wall fixing and drill fixing holes. Insert the wall fixings, and screw the brackets to the wall.

Now for the blind fitting. Position the sidewinder end of the blind into the bracket. You will be putting the square peg into the square hole. At the opposite end, insert the dummy pin into the bracket feeder channel to the central point. Snap the blind into position in the round hole.

To make the blind go up and down, simply pull the side cord. Use the back chord to lower, and the front cord to raise it. To remove the blind from its brackets, simply apply some gentle pressure to the dummy pin end, pushing upwards for top fixed brackets and inwards towards the window for face or side fixed brackets. The blind will now feed through the channel until it is free. Pull the sidewinder end of the blind out of its bracket to remove.

There are lots of useful tips about how to paint a panel door that can make the job straight forward with a happy outcome. Before you start, make sure you have the following items: wood primer; 2 or 3 paint brushes - 1 inch, 2 inch and an optional 3 inch brush; suitable undercoat; suitable topcoat; fine sand paper; white spirit and cloth; and a screwdriver.

The first step is to remove the handles, plates and locks to make the painting easier. Dust behind thoroughly and blow out dust from the lock. Check for any flaking paint, and remove with a scraper. Feather the surrounding paintwork with fine sand paper to even the surface, fill open joints or cracks with wood filler and rub down. Wash the door down with sugar soap and allow to dry.

Before painting, make sure you wedge the door open with two flat sticks or a rolled up newspaper. Put cardboard or newspapers under the door to protect the floor or carpet. Assuming your paintwork is in sound condition, you may not need primer or undercoat, although you should sand down existing paintwork. When applying the top coat there is a correct alphabetical sequence for painting the panels and edges which will give the best results. If you have an outward opening door that can be seen from the stairs, first paint the top edge, and check for paint runs. Next paint the hinge edges on the doors opening into a room or outwards to the exterior. Paint the beading around the panels with the small brush ensuring you catch any runs. Coat the panels themselves, with smooth strokes of the brush following the grain of the wood. Next paint the vertical stiles with smooth vertical strokes following the grain of the wood. Then coat the horizontal rails using horizontal strokes of the brush. Next, coat the vertical runs using smooth vertical strokes, ensuring you leave an even finish where the joins of the horizontal rails meet. Finally coat the edges of the door with smooth vertical strokes ensuring to catch any runs or build ups of paint on the corners.

Allow the gloss to dry before rubbing down with a fine sandpaper, wipe door down with a clean cloth to remove any dust, and apply a second coat in the same way.