One of the easiest ways to save money during your Ireland vacation is to use public transportation whenever possible.

I outlined the multiple ways to get around Ireland here, and in this article I’m focusing on the Leap Card, a reusable travel card that can be used on many public transportation services in Dublin and other cities and towns across Ireland.

While a Leap Card can make public transportation easier and less expensive, choosing the right card for your vacation depends on where you are traveling and how often you will use it. Both the standard TFI Leap Card and the Leap Visitor Card are useful for tourists, they work differently and neither is a nationwide transportation pass.

Tip: when you're relying on public transportation it's important to have wireless connectivity. Learn how to use your mobile phone in Ireland and consider renting a mobile wifi unit from WifiCandy.ie. Use code IFVTRAVEL to save 10%. Irelandfamilyvacations.com/wifi

When it comes to traveling through Ireland using buses, light rail, and trains, the Leap Card can be a wise purchase – as long as you understand where and how it can be used (and where it can't).

This article is also available as the Traveling in Ireland podcast, episode 356. Use the player below to listen or scroll to continue reading the article and get resource links.

Despite the name, the Leap Visitor Card isn't necessarily the best choice just because you're visiting Ireland.

The Standard Leap Card is a prepaid travel card that offers discounted fares and, in Dublin, daily and weekly fare caps. It can be used on participating transportation services in Dublin and elsewhere in Ireland, making it the more flexible option if your trip takes you beyond Dublin.

The Leap Visitor Card offers unlimited eligible public transportation in Dublin for 1, 3, or 7 consecutive days. Cards cost €8 for 1 day, €18 for 3 days, or €24 for 7 days.

The Visitor Card is only for Dublin transportation and is not valid on Bus Éireann services. It is also non-refundable.

Before buying either card, consider how much you'll actually use public transportation. Dublin city centre is compact and very walkable. I rarely use public transportation when I'm exploring central Dublin because most of the places I want to visit are easily reached on foot.

For some visitors, purchasing individual fares may cost less than buying either type of Leap Card. Even a day trip outside the city centre doesn't necessarily make the Visitor Card the better value. A round trip on the DART from Connolly Station to Howth, for example, costs €5.20 when purchasing individual fares or €4 using a Standard Leap Card, compared to €8 for a one-day Visitor Card.

The Visitor Card makes more sense if you plan to use public transportation several times during the day and prefer the convenience of unlimited travel. Otherwise, the discounted fares and fare caps of a Standard Leap Card may cost less.

If you'll be using public transportation beyond Dublin, the Standard Leap Card also offers far more flexibility.

The Leap Card is most useful in Dublin, where it can be used on Dublin Bus, Luas, DART and participating commuter rail services, as well as some other bus services.

The Leap Visitor Card is specifically for travel in Dublin. This card offers unlimited travel on participating Dublin public transportation for a set period of time. I'll explain how the Visitor Leap Card differs from a Standard Leap Card, and whether it may save you money, below.

Outside Dublin, Leap Cards can be used on participating public transportation services in a growing number of cities and towns, including Cork, Galway, Limerick, Waterford, Sligo, Athlone, Kilkenny, Wexford, Carlow, Clonmel, Drogheda, and Navan.

The Standard Leap Card can also be used to pay for Bus Éireann Expressway services, though you won't receive a discounted Leap fare on these journeys. Leap Cards are also accepted on participating TFI Local Link and commercial bus services, but acceptance varies by route and operator.

It is important to remember that a Leap Card is not a nationwide transportation pass. If your Ireland itinerary includes intercity or regional travel, check whether Leap is accepted on each service before assuming you can use your card.

While the Leap Card is acepted on a growing number of transportation services, it can't be used everywhere.

Leap Card acceptance can vary by route and operator, especially outside Dublin. As you plan your itinerary check the Leap Card website for current information about where the card can be used.

Both the Standard Leap Card and the Leap Visitor Cards are physical cards, not e-tickets or digital passes that can be uploaded to your phone.

Buying a Standard Leap Card

Standard Leap Cards can be purchased at participating Leap Card agents throughout Ireland, including many convenience stores and newsagents, as well as selected ticket machines. You can then add travel credit, or ‘top up,' the card as needed.

Standard Leap Cards can also be ordered online, but international visitors should allow plenty of time for delivery (a minimum of 2 weeks) before their trip.

Buying a Leap Visitor Card

Leap Visitor Cards can be purchased at Dublin Airport and selected locations in Dublin, or ordered online before your trip.

Visitor Cards are available for 1, 3, or 7 consecutive days of unlimited eligible travel. The travel period begins the first time you use the card, not when you purchase it.

If you decide you need additional days, a Visitor Card can be topped up with another 1-, 3-, or 7-day period up to five times.

The post Leap Card in Ireland: What Visitors Need to Know appeared first on Ireland Family Vacations.

What's the best way to get around Ireland? It depends on your itinerary, budget, travel style, and how much flexibility you want.

In this video, I break down the pros and cons of traveling around Ireland by train, bus, rental car, private driver guide, and even boat. We'll look at where each option works well, where it can make your trip more difficult, and why you don't have to choose just one.

Mixing and matching transportation can often make the most sense. You might explore Dublin without a car, take a train to another city, rent a car for the countryside, or hire a private driver guide for a day.

Before deciding how you'll travel around Ireland, figure out what you want your trip to look like… then choose the transportation that fits it.

Topics covered:
Train travel in Ireland
Bus travel in Ireland
Renting a car in Ireland
Private driver guides in Ireland
Ireland public transportation
Getting around Ireland without a car
Mixing transportation options in Ireland

The post Getting Around Ireland: Choosing the Best Transportation for Your Trip appeared first on Ireland Family Vacations.

Dark tourism in Ireland covers more ground than most travelers expect, from famine memorials and workhouses to ghost tours, ancient beliefs, and haunted castles. For travelers interested in Irish history, genealogy, folklore, or the stories that don't fit neatly into the usual castles-and-cliffs itinerary, these places can add another layer of understanding to a trip.

Ireland's history isn't only castles and beautiful landscapes. It is also hardship, conflict, famine, emigration, ancient beliefs, and centuries of traditions surrounding death.

Many travelers already visit places connected to this history without ever thinking of what they're doing as “dark tourism.”

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Luisa Golz has looked at the subject from both an academic and tourism perspective. Her PhD research focused on festivals with dark themes, and her work planning private Ireland itineraries gives her a very practical view of why travelers seek these places out – and how they can experience them respectfully.

This article is based on podcast episode 353 featuring Luisa Golz, Director of Sales at Desmond Tours.
Use the player below to listen or scroll to continue reading the article and get resource links.

The phrase dark tourism is relatively new, coined by academics in the mid-1990s, but the idea certainly isn't.

At its simplest, dark tourism means visiting places connected with death, tragedy, disaster, suffering, or the macabre. Some researchers have traced the impulse as far back as ancient Rome, when people traveled to the Colosseum to watch gladiatorial combat.

But not every dark tourism experience is equally dark.

At one end of the spectrum are places directly connected with suffering and death: famine sites, workhouses, battlefields, memorials, and locations where people died.

At the lighter end are ghost tours, gothic attractions, haunted castles, folklore experiences, and Halloween festivals.

That distinction matters when planning a trip. A ghost walk through medieval Kilkenny is entertainment wrapped in history. A famine memorial may ask something quite different of a visitor.

One reason is something academics call locational authenticity – the experience of standing in the actual place where history happened.

Dunmore Cave, about 20 minutes from Kilkenny City, is a good example. Visitors descend into a dramatic limestone cave filled with stalactites and stalagmites, but the site also has a grim history. The Annals of the Four Masters record a Viking attack there in the 10th century in which a large number of people sheltering inside were killed.

Knowing that history changes the experience of walking into the cave.

Another motivation is simply curiosity. Ireland has centuries of invasion, rebellion, famine, emigration, and political upheaval to explore, and sometimes understanding those difficult chapters gives much-needed context to the places travelers are already visiting.

Then there is the physical experience of being somewhere.

At the Dunbrody Famine Ship in New Ross, County Wexford, visitors don't simply read about emigration during the Great Famine. They can go below deck and see the cramped space passengers endured on the Atlantic crossing.

The low ceilings and close quarters make the history much harder to keep at arm's length.

There isn't one neat “dark tourism trail” through Ireland. These stories appear all over the country, and that's actually what makes them so easy to weave into an existing itinerary.

Articles like this highlight a few great options — but they’re just a small part of what Ireland offers.

The Ireland Travel Compass brings together hundreds of places across the country and helps you understand how to combine them into a trip that feels balanced and easy to navigate.

Halloween is probably the easiest entry point into the lighter side of dark tourism.

Its origins are closely connected with Samhain, the ancient festival marking the transition into winter. Traditions surrounding this time of year included the belief that the boundary between this world and the Otherworld became easier to cross.

Today, Ireland has embraced that connection with multiple festivals and celebrations including Púca Festival, Derry Halloween, and Dublin's Bram Stoker Festival.

These events can make darker themes such as fear, death, spirits, and old folklore, more approachable. There's plenty of entertainment involved, but there's also an opportunity to understand why Ireland has such a strong connection to Halloween in the first place.

They offer another practical advantage for travelers: timing.

Ireland's busiest touring season is winding down by mid-October. Halloween events at the end of the month give autumn travelers another reason to visit when days are shorter, crowds are often lighter, and the atmosphere is quite different from midsummer.

The idea of a “thin place” is harder to define, but easy enough to understand when standing in the right place on the right day.

These are locations where the distance between the physical and spiritual worlds is said to feel especially slight.

Grange Stone Circle at Lough Gur in County Limerick and the Rock of Dunamase in County Laois are two places where the idea feels particularly fitting.

Neither needs a ghost story attached to make an impression. Add an early-November mist, fading afternoon light, and the knowledge that people have gathered in Ireland's ancient landscapes for thousands of years, and the atmosphere does most of the work.

The Great Famine is one of the darkest periods in Irish history, and its effects can be traced across the island.

For genealogy travelers, these places can be especially powerful. Many Americans arrive in Ireland knowing an ancestor emigrated sometime in the mid-1800s. Understanding what was happening in Ireland at the time can turn a name and date on a family tree into something much more human.

The National Famine Museum at Strokestown Park in County Roscommon is a good place to begin for historical context.

The Jeanie Johnston Famine Ship in Dublin brings the emigrant journey to life, while the Irish Workhouse Centre in Portumna shows another side of poverty and survival.

At Doagh Famine Village in County Donegal, it was a simple display that stayed with Luisa: a wooden table showing the meager foods a family might have relied upon – potatoes, seaweed, and mussels.

Sometimes a small detail tells the story better than a wall full of dates.

The Doolough Valley and a Walk Made in Desperation

One of the most memorable famine sites is also one travelers can easily miss.

The Doolough Famine Memorial stands in a striking valley near Louisburgh in County Mayo.

In March 1849, starving people walked roughly 20 kilometers from Louisburgh toward Delphi seeking assistance. After failing to receive the relief they desperately needed, they had to make the journey back. Some died along the way.

The memorial itself is small against the mountains, road, and water surrounding it.

That landscape is part of what makes the story so affecting. On a quiet autumn day, with low light across the valley, it isn't difficult to imagine how punishing that journey must have been for people already weakened by hunger.

It is beautiful country, but this is one of those places where the beauty and the history need to be held together.

The simplest advice is also the most useful: know where you are.

Before arriving, learn enough about a site to understand its significance. A few minutes of reading can completely change how you experience a place.

Local guides can be invaluable, too. They provide more than names and dates; a good guide can explain traditions, point out details a visitor would otherwise miss, and help travelers understand when normal vacation behavior might be inappropriate.

And slow down.

Not every stop needs to be photographed from six angles before moving on to the next item on the itinerary.

Glendalough offers a very practical example. Some graves are marked with flat stone slabs that can be easy to mistake for ordinary paving. Visitors sometimes walk directly across them without realizing someone is buried beneath their feet.

There is usually no disrespect intended. They simply don't know what they're looking at.

Awareness changes that.

Luisa Golz is Director of Sales at Desmond Tours, a private tour company specializing in customized travel around Ireland.

Desmond Tours creates private itineraries for couples, families, and groups, matching travelers with a driver-guide who remains with them throughout their journey. The company can also arrange accommodations and activities as part of the itinerary.

For travelers particularly interested in Ireland's darker history and folklore, Luisa's academic research gives her an unusual depth of knowledge when helping decide which experiences make sense – and, just as importantly, how to balance them with the rest of a vacation.

Desmond Tours offers free itinerary consultations for travelers considering a private tour. The company can be contacted through its website or at [email protected].

Looking for inspiration? Check out their socials on Facebook & Instagram.

Marsh's Library, Dublin

Beside St. Patrick's Cathedral, Marsh's Library has original wire reading cages once used to prevent book theft, damage dating to the 1916 Easter Rising, and a connection to Dracula author Bram Stoker, who studied here while attending Trinity College.

Kilkenny Ghost Tours

Kilkenny's medieval streets make a fitting backdrop for stories of witchcraft, ghosts, and local folklore. An evening walking tour is an entertaining way to explore the lighter side of dark tourism while learning more about the city's history.

Kinnitty Castle, County Offaly

For a dark tourism experience you can actually sleep in, Kinnitty Castle delivers plenty of gothic atmosphere. The historic castle hotel has a haunted reputation, plus a fairy garden and stone circle on the grounds.
One practical note: there's no elevator, so don't arrive with big luggage you aren't prepared to carry upstairs.

Luisa also recommends The Darkness Echoing: Exploring Ireland's Places of Famine, Death and Rebellion by Gillian O'Brien for travelers who want to explore the subject further.

What is dark tourism?

Dark tourism is travel to places associated with death, tragedy, disaster, suffering, or macabre history. The definition can also include lighter experiences such as ghost tours, haunted locations, gothic attractions, and Halloween events.

Is dark tourism in Ireland only about the Great Famine?

No. Famine history is an important part of it, but dark tourism in Ireland can also include Viking history, rebellion and conflict, workhouses, folklore, ghost stories, haunted castles, ancient beliefs surrounding death, and Halloween traditions.

How does Halloween relate to dark tourism in Ireland?

Halloween has strong connections to the ancient festival of Samhain and traditions surrounding the transition into winter and the Otherworld. Modern Irish festivals combine that heritage with storytelling, folklore, performance, and plenty of entertainment.

Is dark tourism appropriate for families?

It depends entirely on the site and the children. A ghost tour or Halloween festival may work well for some families, while locations dealing directly with famine, death, or human suffering may require more preparation or may not be appropriate for younger children.

Should you plan an entire Ireland trip around dark tourism?

Probably not, unless it is a particular passion. For most travelers, adding a few carefully chosen experiences to a broader itinerary creates a better balance.

The Ireland Travel Compass brings together hundreds of places across the country and helps you turn ideas like these into a trip that fits your time and travel style.

Dark tourism isn't really as niche as the name makes it sound. Travelers encounter it throughout Ireland, sometimes without realizing it — aboard a famine ship in Wexford, walking through an old graveyard, hearing ghost stories in Kilkenny, or standing beside a memorial in a lonely Mayo valley.

The key isn't to collect as many dark sites as possible. Choose the stories that add something to the places you're already visiting, understand what happened before you arrive, and give yourself enough time to really take it in.

Ireland's difficult stories are part of its story, too.

The post Ireland’s Darker Side: Famine Sites, Ghost Tours, and Haunted Castles Worth Visiting appeared first on Ireland Family Vacations.

Credit card coverage can be a good option for a car rental in Ireland, but simply having rental car protection on your card doesn't mean you're covered. Some cards exclude Ireland entirely, while others have limits on the vehicles they cover, the length of the rental, or the amount they'll pay.

Before you decline the rental company's collision damage waiver, you need to understand exactly what your credit card covers, what the rental company requires, and what happens if the car is damaged.

I recommend watching the video below for the complete visual walk-through of this content.

The challenge with credit card coverage isn’t simply finding a card that offers it. Most people don’t realize they are working with two separate sets of rules: the terms of your credit card benefit and the requirements of the Ireland car rental company. Both have to work together for credit card coverage to be a practical option for your rental.

Don't assume that a credit card covers Ireland simply because it advertises worldwide rental car protection.

One of my own premium travel cards is a good example. The Capital One Venture X offers rental car coverage in many countries, but the card benefits specifically exclude both the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland. Other cards have different exclusions.

Start with the cards you already have. Find the rental car benefit in each card's Guide to Benefits and look specifically for geographic restrictions. Search for terms like “worldwide” and “Ireland,” and read the exclusions.

And I wouldn't recommend getting an expensive premium travel card solely to save money on insurance for one Ireland car rental. Consider the cost of the card and its other benefits before deciding whether it makes financial sense for you.

Your credit card determines whether you have coverage.

The rental company determines what proof it requires before allowing you to decline its collision damage waiver, or CDW.

Those are two separate things.

You may be able to decline the rental company's coverage while making your reservation online, but that doesn't necessarily mean you won't be asked for documentation when you pick up the vehicle.

A letter of coverage from your credit card benefit provider may be required.

I recommend having that letter with you even if you don't think you'll need it. Request it from your credit card company no more than 2 weeks before the day you pick up your rental – most make it easy to do on their app or website – and bring a printed copy with you when you pick up the car.

Be sure to check your rental company's current requirements and your credit card's current terms before you travel.

Credit card rental protection should not be confused with the comprehensive car insurance you may be accustomed to at home.

The coverage is primarily protecting the rental vehicle.

Depending on your card, covered expenses may include damage or theft of the rental vehicle, eligible loss-of-use charges from the rental company, and towing.

But the list of things that aren't covered can be considerably longer.

Your card may exclude personal belongings, personal injury, damage to property outside the rental vehicle, certain types of vehicles, violations of the rental agreement, and other losses.

This is why you need to read more than the headline benefit.

Compare what your credit card provides with the excess coverage available from the rental company. The right choice is the one that gives you a level of financial risk you're comfortable accepting.

There can be confusion around the phrase “declining insurance” when renting a car in Ireland.

You aren't necessarily declining every type of protection attached to the rental.

Third-party liability covers your legal liability for injury or property damage you cause to other people. This remains in place.

The collision damage waiver, or CDW, relates to your financial responsibility to the rental company when its vehicle is damaged.

When you decline CDW to use eligible credit card coverage, you're declining the rental company's protection for damage to its vehicle. You aren't declining the required third-party liability protection.

Understanding that distinction makes the choices on the rental agreement much easier to follow.

If you decline the rental company's CDW, expect the company to place a hold on your credit card.

The amount varies by rental company and may also depend on factors such as the vehicle you choose and the length of your rental. Check the terms for your specific reservation.

You need enough available credit for the hold and for any other trip expenses you plan to charge to the same card.

Another fee you may encounter: a cost to use your credit card coverage. I have seen this at Hertz/Dollar/Thrifty locations.

Credit cards don't all provide the same maximum rental car benefit.

Each ‘level’ of credit cars has different dollar limits and methods for determining how much would be paid after a loss.

That matters because you need to consider the value of the vehicle you're renting.

Ask yourself a simple question: if this car were totaled, would my credit card benefit be enough to cover the loss?

You should also check whether your particular type of rental vehicle is eligible. Depending on the card, exclusions may include vehicles such as antique cars, cargo vans, motor homes, motorcycles, or mopeds.

Car-sharing services may also be excluded.

Then check the maximum rental period. Coverage might apply for 28 days with one provider and 31 days with another. Don't assume the terms are consistent from one card or rental company to another.

This is one of the most important parts of relying on credit card coverage.

If your Ireland rental car is damaged, you will be charged by the rental company. That charge goes onto your credit card.

You then file a claim with the credit card's benefit administrator for reimbursement.

My experience using credit card coverage after an Ireland rental car accident

That process can take time, and you'll need to provide the required documentation.

Meanwhile, you still have a charge sitting on your credit card. If you don't pay that balance, it may accrue interest.

Think through that possibility before deciding whether credit card coverage is the best option for you.

Don't wait until an accident happens to learn how your credit card's claims process works.

Before you travel, find out:

Having this information in advance can make an already stressful situation much easier to manage.

If you're relying on credit card coverage, I recommend documenting the vehicle thoroughly.

At pickup, photograph every side of the vehicle as well as the wheels and glass. Take clear photos of existing scratches, dents, or other damage.

If something happens during your rental, photograph the damage and anything else relevant to the incident.

Then photograph the vehicle again when you return it. When possible, include evidence showing where and when the vehicle was returned.

This isn't necessarily a requirement of your coverage. It's simply good documentation to have if a damage charge is disputed later.

Credit card coverage can be a good option for an Ireland car rental, and it may save you money. But that doesn't mean it's automatically the best option for every traveler.

Before relying on it:

If that feels like more financial exposure or paperwork than you're comfortable handling, purchasing excess coverage from the rental company is another option.

More information about Ireland Car Rental Insurance and Excess CDW

Neither choice is automatically right for everyone. The important thing is understanding what you're accepting—and what you're responsible for—before you pick up your Ireland rental car.

Complete Resource: Ireland Car Rental & Driving Guide

Traveling in Ireland podcast episode 352

The post Using Credit Card Coverage for a Car Rental in Ireland: What You Must Understand appeared first on Ireland Family Vacations.

The Beara Peninsula, also known as the Ring of Beara, sits in southwest Ireland, just south of its more famous neighbor, the Ring of Kerry. It's a good fit for travelers who want scenic coastal roads and conversations with locals without the tour buses. This guide covers where to base yourself, what to do, and how to plan a couple of unrushed days on the Beara Peninsula.

The Beara Peninsula sits on Ireland's southwest coast, split between County Cork and County Kerry. It gets less attention than the Ring of Kerry or Dingle Peninsula, partly because it falls across two counties and neither one really promotes it as its own.

Tessa Dennison, who publishes an annual magazine and book about the region called The Best of Beara, puts it simply: everyone's heard of the Ring of Kerry, but very few people have heard of the Ring of Beara.

This article is based on podcast episode 351 featuring Tessa Dennison, publisher of The Best of Beara.
Use the player below to listen or scroll to continue reading the article and get resource links.

Beara doesn't have the tourist infrastructure Kerry and Dingle have built up. There are no rows of hotels or streets lined with souvenir shops. That's part of the appeal, but it also means a little more planning pays off.

Articles like this highlight a few great options — but they’re just a small part of what Ireland offers.

The Ireland Travel Compass brings together hundreds of places across the country and helps you understand how to combine them into a trip that feels balanced and easy to navigate.

Ireland's southwest coast has three main peninsulas reaching into the Atlantic: Dingle, the Iveragh Peninsula (better known as the Ring of Kerry), and Beara, further south and divided along the Cork-Kerry border.

Visitors to the area often drive the direct route between Kenmare and Glengarriff – about 20 minutes – instead of the loop road around the peninsula, which takes the better part of a day. The direct route, while beautiful, skips Beara's stunning coastline and wonderful history.

The best advice is to base yourself in one of the three main towns on the peninsula and use it as a hub.

B&Bs and guesthouses are scattered through the towns in between, so there's no need to stick to the three main bases if a smaller village catches your eye.

If you're not driving, you're not entirely out of luck. Kenmare-based operator, Kerry Tour Guides, runs small minibus tours around Beara – group bookings of five or six people, or occasionally single seats if there's enough interest to fill the bus.

Cycling is another option; Kenmare has e-bike rental, and the peninsula hosts an annual cycling event every May that loops the whole area.

One practical note if you are self-driving: the roads are narrow in places, with mountain passes and passing bays rather than wide lanes, but they're well maintained. Expert advice: don't be put off by the width of the road, just go slow.

No matter how you tour the area, expect a slower pace than you would find on the busier peninsulas.

The Ireland Travel Compass brings together hundreds of places across the country and helps you turn ideas like these into a trip that fits your time and travel style.

Healy Pass and the Ring of Beara Drive

The Healy Pass is the peninsula's high viewpoint – a climbing, winding, mountain road with views over Kenmare Bay and the MacGillycuddy's Reeks on a clear day. Dennison recommends driving it from the Adrigole (Bantry Bay) side, climbing up past a small grotto near the summit before the view opens up on the way back down into Kerry. It's often compared to the Gap of Dunloe near Killarney, but with far less traffic.

Dursey Island Cable Car

Ireland's only cable car connects the mainland to Dursey Island at the peninsula's western tip. It's been renovated in recent years, but the older version had a habit of carrying more than tourists – Dennison remembers sheep waiting to board alongside passengers on an earlier crossing, since it was simply the most practical way to get livestock across.

Eyeries and the Ballycrovane Ogham Stone

Eyeries is known for its brightly painted houses, and its church holds eleven stained-glass windows by a well-known Irish artist, paid for by the local community in the 1980s. Just outside the village stands the Ballycrovane Ogham Stone, the tallest of its kind in Europe – Dennison notes that researchers believe as much stone again may be buried below ground as stands above it. A short distance away, Allihies has its own draw in the Copper Mine Museum, tracing the village's mining history.

Bere Island Ferry Trip

For a step further off the peninsula itself, the ferry to Bere Island leaves from Castletownbere. It's a small crossing – room for a handful of cars, you can also cross as a foot passenger – but the island has its own military history, with Martello towers and old forts, plus beaches and hiking trails. Dennison describes stepping off the ferry as stepping into another world entirely, and says it's worth building into your trip if you have the time.
Note: This is a great spot for a kayak tour.

Bantry

Just beyond Beara's edge, Bantry is worth a stop in its own right (I say it is what Dingle was like before it became popular). Its library is a piece of 1960s architecture currently being restored, and several boat and island trips advertised through Bantry's tourist office actually depart from within the Beara Peninsula rather than the town itself.

Tessa Dennison is a graphic designer who specializes in books and magazines, and the publisher behind Best of Beara – an annual regional magazine and a 144-page book covering the peninsula. The project started in 2018, when she and her daughter noticed Kerry had a long-running local publication of its own and Beara didn't. She's published an issue every year since, aside from 2020, printing between 7,000 and 10,000 copies annually and distributing them through tourist offices and advertisers across Cork and Kerry, from Killarney and Dingle down to Skibbereen, Clonakilty, and Bantry.

Find the digital magazine, order the book, or get more information on the peninsula at bestofbeara.com.

You'll also find Best of Beara on Facebook and Instagram.

Get out on the water. Dennison's top recommendation is anything water-based – kayaking out from Kenmare, Castletownbere, or Adrigole to visit the seals, or a night kayaking trip timed to catch the bioluminescence. She says her favorite views of the peninsula are from the water, looking back at the coastline.

Give it more time than the map suggests. Beara looks small enough to circle in a couple of hours, and you can, but that skips most of what's worth seeing. Dennison's advice is to slow down, follow the odd side road or handmade sign, and see what turns up – she mentioned finding an alpaca trekking outfit that way.

Take the ferry to Bere Island. Already covered above, but it's worth repeating as a standalone recommendation – Dennison calls it one of the best ways to add a genuine change of pace to a Beara visit.

The Beara Peninsula doesn't have the crowds or the marketing that Kerry and Dingle get, but it has dramatic coastline, high mountain passes, and towns where people still have time for a chat over coffee.

One or two unrushed days here will give you an idea of what the more popular peninsulas were like before the tour buses arrived.

The post The Beara Peninsula: A Guide to Cork and Kerry’s Overlooked Coastal Drive appeared first on Ireland Family Vacations.

If you're planning to rent a car in Ireland and you're over 75, don't assume every rental company has the same requirements.

In this quick Ireland travel tip, I explain how to find each company's senior driver policy, show you where to look on rental websites, and summarize which companies only require a valid driver's license and which may ask for additional documentation such as insurance and medical letters.

The post Driving in Ireland Over 75? Check These Rental Policies First appeared first on Ireland Family Vacations.

At a Glance

Motorhome and campervan travel in Ireland has grown a lot in recent years, and this guide covers what first-timers actually need to know: vehicle size, where you can legally park overnight, and the apps that make it easier. Whether you're weighing a motorhome trip against a rental car or already sold on the idea, this should help you figure out how to do it well.

Travel Planning Snapshot

This article is based on podcast episode 349 featuring Sandra Willis, owner of Motorhome Routes Ireland.
Use the player below to listen or scroll to continue reading the article and get resource links.

Renting an RV in Ireland is not the same experience as renting one in North America, and a lot of that difference comes down to road width, vehicle size, and where you're actually allowed to spend the night.

The first thing to get straight is size. Irish roads are narrower than American ones, and the vehicles that work well here are narrower too. Sandra Willis, who runs Motorhome Routes Ireland, drives a camper van small enough to fit in a standard supermarket parking space. It still has a kitchen, a sink, a cooker, a fridge, and a bathroom with a toilet and shower — everything she needs if she's not on a campsite that night.

Bigger motorhomes exist and can be rented, but the bigger the vehicle, the more you'll find yourself sticking to main routes and larger campsites. A smaller camper van gives you more freedom to get off the main roads. Sandra's advice on rental size largely mirrors the standard car-rental rule: get the smallest one you can actually be comfortable in. If having more space matters enough to you that it makes the trip more enjoyable, that's a fair trade — just know you'll likely be doing more research on which roads and park-ups will actually fit the vehicle.

She also flagged one Ireland-specific hazard for bigger rigs: L roads. These are the smallest, narrowest roads in the country — the ones with grass growing up the middle. Fine in a small camper van. Best avoided in anything larger.

This is the part that trips up a lot of first-time renters, since the rules are different everywhere.

Ireland has full-service campsites with facilities and organized activities — good for families, and the kind of place you could spend several days without leaving. There are also plainer campsites that just offer the basics: toilets, showers, water, electricity.

Below that are ‘aires' (short for Aire de Service), which are common across Europe and increasingly available in Ireland. These are generally large car parks set up for camper vans, with water and waste disposal and sometimes electricity, for a small overnight fee.

Then there's pub parking, which Sandra called one of the main draws of camper van travel in Ireland specifically. Many pubs will let you park overnight if you ask first, with the general expectation that you'll eat and drink there while you're stopped. It's technically called “parking” rather than “camping” — you're not meant to set up chairs or anything else outside the vehicle — but it's widely tolerated. Sandra's rules of thumb: check for posted signs banning overnight stays, don't park outside private houses, leave no trace, and support the business you're parked at.

Genuine wild camping — parking somewhere remote and scenic with no arrangement at all — is also possible if you keep a low profile, and some of those spots are, in Sandra's words, spectacular.

For finding campsites, aires, and park-ups, Sandra pointed to Park4Night as the app she relies on most in Ireland. She also mentioned Search for Sites, though she finds it works better elsewhere in Europe than it does in Ireland.

Asked what trips people up most, Sandra didn't point to driving mishaps or parking dents. The real issue, she said, is people trying to pack in too much mileage. Ireland is small compared to North America and Australia, but the roads are slow — narrow, winding, and often stuck behind a tractor or a tour coach. Her advice is to pick one area and actually get to know it, rather than trying to circle the entire country in two weeks.

One small navigation tip from her: on narrower roads, follow the same direction that coaches and larger vehicles travel (the Ring of Kerry, for example, has a customary direction), so you're not meeting them head-on where there isn't room to pass.

Sandra Willis originally ran an events company in England for twenty years before selling it and moving onto a narrowboat to travel the English canal system. Six years ago she moved to Ireland — bringing the boat with her by ship — and eventually bought a camper van to explore the country further. Friends and followers kept asking how she found the places she visited, and that curiosity turned into Motorhome Routes Ireland.

The site sells downloadable, themed motorhome route guides — geographic ones like the Wild Atlantic Way or the Causeway Coast, and themed ones built around live music and craic, wildlife, or hiking. Sandra also offers bespoke route planning for travelers who want an itinerary built around their own pace, interests, and vehicle.

In addition to her website, you can also find Sandra on Facebook, Instagram, and TikTok.

Enniskillen and Devenish Island
Enniskillen, in Fermanagh where Sandra lives, is built around islands, and a boat trip from there takes you to Devenish Island, home to a monastic site and one of Ireland's oldest round towers. There are three campsites near Enniskillen to choose from, giving you a home base with an easy day of exploring — and a break from driving — built in.

Donegal, especially around Sleepy Hollows
For travelers with limited time, Sandra's top recommendation is Donegal — it's on the Wild Atlantic Way and has beaches, coastline, and a campsite called Sleepy Hollows that she describes as bohemian, with a nightly fire and a communal area where travelers swap stories. Nearby in Dunlewy are two churches: a current one, and an older abandoned one where you can stand at the empty window frame and look out over the Poison Glen — a view Sandra ranks among the best in Ireland. Donegal Airport, one of the more scenic small airports to fly into, is close by too, along with a wild camping spot with water so blue it looks Caribbean.

Anderson's Thatched Pub, Carrick-on-Shannon
Near the River Shannon, this old-fashioned pub is only open on weekends and offers camper van parking. Locals go behind the bar to pour their own pints and leave the money in the till, and there's informal music most nights, with the crowd joining in rather than a booked band. The owner, Jean, is known for leaving small gifts on parked windscreens overnight — fresh bread, or an Easter egg if the timing lines up. Sandra calls it about as authentic as Ireland gets.

The Ireland Travel Compass brings together hundreds of places across the country and helps you turn ideas like these into a trip that fits your time and travel style.

Motorhome travel isn't for everyone, but for the right traveler — someone with the time to slow down and take one region properly rather than rushing the whole country — it opens up a different way of seeing Ireland. Between the pub car parks, the aires, and spots like Sleepy Hollows, it's as much about who you meet along the way as where you end up parked for the night.

The post Motorhome Travel in Ireland: What You Need to Know Before You Rent appeared first on Ireland Family Vacations.

If you're planning to rely on credit card or third-party rental car insurance in Ireland, I want to tell you about the one time I actually had to use mine.

The insurance paid the claim. That wasn't the problem.

The problem was everything that happened over the next two months.

This happened back in 2015, so the forms look a little different today. But the reimbursement process with credit card and third-party insurance works much the same way.

On this trip my daughters and I were driving through the Vee, an incredibly scenic gap between County Tipperary and County Waterford.

We were climbing a narrow hill when a large dump truck came down toward us much faster than I would expect on a road that size. Whether the driver knew the road well or simply assumed no one was coming the other way, I don't know.

I moved over as far as I safely could… but there simply wasn't enough room.

The entire passenger side of the rental car scraped along the stone wall, and neither passenger door would open afterward.

I drove the car to Cork Airport the following day, as it was the closest rental office.

The staff inspected the damage, completed the incident report, and charged the estimated €1,630 repair cost to my credit card. They also gave me copies of all the paperwork they said I'd need to file my insurance claim.

My original rental ended there, something I hadn't anticipated. Before we could continue our trip, I had to arrange a new rental vehicle. For that second rental, I ended up purchasing the rental company's excess coverage before we could get back on the road.

At that point, I thought the hard part was over.

It wasn't.

One thing I did right was keeping every piece of paperwork. I saved the incident report, the damage acknowledgement, photos of the vehicle, and every document the rental company gave me.

I ended up needing all of it.

If you're relying on credit card or third-party insurance, assume you'll need to document everything. Take photos, keep copies of every form, and don't throw anything away until your claim has been fully settled.

For the next two months, I was the middleman.

The credit card insurance company kept requesting documents.

Sometimes they needed paperwork I hadn't been given.

So I contacted the rental company.

Then the insurance company needed something else.

Back to the rental company.

Neither company was doing anything wrong. This is simply how reimbursement insurance can work. The rental company and the insurance administrator don't always communicate directly, so you may end up acting as the go-between.

Meanwhile, that repair charge was sitting on my credit card.

I had two choices.

Leave the balance there while waiting for reimbursement and potentially pay interest…

Or pay it myself and wait for the insurance company to reimburse me later.

Either way, it tied up a significant amount of money for weeks.

And if your balance carries over, the interest generally isn't part of what the insurance reimburses.

That experience completely changed how I rent cars in Ireland.

Today, I prefer rentals with inclusive coverage or I purchase the rental company's excess protection.

Not because I think credit card insurance doesn't work.

Mine did.

I simply decided that, for me, avoiding (potential) months of paperwork, large temporary charges, and the uncertainty afterward is worth paying a little more upfront.

Everyone has a different comfort level with risk and paperwork, but I think it's important to understand the claims process before deciding which type of coverage is right for you.

Before you rely on credit card or third-party rental car coverage, make sure you understand how the claims process works, what documentation you'll need, and whether you're comfortable paying the damage charge first while waiting to be reimbursed.

For many travelers, reimbursement coverage is a perfectly good option. For me, after going through the process once, I decided the extra cost of inclusive coverage was worth the peace of mind.

If you're still deciding which insurance option is best for your trip, be sure to watch my other rental car insurance videos and podcast episodes. I compare the different types of coverage, explain how they work, and help you choose the option that best fits your budget and comfort level. You'll everything in my complete Car Rental & Driving in Ireland resource.

Traveling in Ireland podcast episode 348

The post Credit Card or Third-Party Rental Car Insurance in Ireland: What Happens After an Accident? appeared first on Ireland Family Vacations.

Landing in Dublin but beginning your vacation elsewhere – options to get to your first destination safely – without driving.

Why driving long distances after an overnight flight isn’t safe

So what do you do if your vacation begins in another location – like Galway, Killarney, Clare, or Cork?

If you don’t want to ‘miss’ a day of touring: choose a driver

If you are after affordability with the least hassle: choose the bus

While the train is certainly an option for some destinations, it isn’t my first recommendation from Dublin Airport because getting to the rail network adds an extra step.

For Galway or Kilkenny: take the bus. These drives are mainly motorway so you won’t miss much.
For Cork: Either option works. The bus is efficient if you’re happy heading straight there, but if your budget allows, a driver can take you through Wicklow or Tipperary and turn your transfer into a memorable first day.
For Killarney: I’d choose a driver every time. The bus follows the motorway through Limerick, but with a driver you can stop at places like the Rock of Cashel and Cahir Castle, so your vacation begins the moment you leave the airport.

However you choose to get there, remember that your vacation starts the moment you leave Dublin Airport. Choose the option that fits your budget, your energy level, and how you want to spend that first day.

Starting your trip in Dublin instead? Be sure to check out my guide to getting from Dublin Airport into the city. I’ll link it in the show notes.

Traveling in Ireland podcast episode 346

The post How to Get from Dublin Airport to Anywhere in Ireland (Without Driving) appeared first on Ireland Family Vacations.

Five weeks on the road across Ireland brings plenty of unforgettable moments — and a few lessons learned the hard way. From airport advice and overlooked historic sites to island adventures and incredible local experiences, this trip delivered a little bit of everything.

For travelers planning their own Ireland itinerary, these are the stops, stays, and practical tips that stood out most.

One of the biggest lessons from this trip came before Ireland was even reached: flight planning matters.

Flying into Shannon Airport is always appealing because it’s smaller, easier to navigate, and far less stressful than larger airports. But during the off-season, direct flights from the U.S. can be harder to find. A routing through London created one major inconvenience — losing the ability to clear U.S. Customs in Ireland before heading home.

For travelers bringing home Irish whiskey or other purchases, that extra security transfer can quickly become frustrating.

A much better strategy whenever possible:

That said, Shannon Airport itself remains one of the easiest airports in Ireland for arrivals and departures.

Articles like this highlight a few great options — but they’re just a small part of what Ireland offers.

The Ireland Travel Compass brings together hundreds of places across the country and helps you understand how to combine them into a trip that feels balanced and easy to navigate.

For travelers arriving into Shannon, Bunratty Castle & Folk Park is hard to beat as an arrival-day activity.

Located just minutes from the airport, it’s an easy way to stay awake, stretch your legs, and begin exploring before hotel check-in. The folk park offers a relaxed introduction to Irish village life, while the castle itself is one of Ireland’s best-preserved tower houses.

It’s especially ideal after an overnight flight when travelers want something engaging without a long drive.

Unexpected itinerary changes led to a few unplanned stops in the Boyne Valley — and they ended up becoming highlights.

Fore Abbey in County Westmeath feels wonderfully removed from the typical tourist trail. The ruins are atmospheric, peaceful, and surrounded by beautiful countryside. Above the abbey sits the Hermitage, adding another layer of history and scenery to the visit.

Travelers looking for quieter historic sites should absolutely keep this area in mind.

Not far from Newgrange, Fourknocks offers another fascinating prehistoric experience with far fewer visitors.

For travelers unable to secure Newgrange tickets, combining the Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre with Fourknocks makes an excellent alternative day.

Newgrange is high on many Ireland bucket lists, but not every visitor needs the longest tour option.

There are generally two choices:

The shorter experience is often enough for most travelers. The longer three-hour option can feel overwhelming unless archaeology is a particular passion.

For most visitors, the best balance is:

Travelers already visiting Kilmainham Gaol and the GPO Museum should strongly consider adding Glasnevin Cemetery to their Dublin itinerary.

Together, these sites help tell the broader story of Ireland’s revolutionary period and the events surrounding 1916.

While the executed leaders are not buried there, Glasnevin includes memorials and stories that deepen the experience and connect Ireland’s history in a very moving way.

For travelers spending three days in Dublin, it’s well worth the time.

Northern Ireland delivered several standout experiences.

This food tour was easily one of the most memorable city experiences of the trip.

Over several hours, travelers:

For first-time visitors to Belfast, it’s an excellent introduction.

If visiting Belfast on a Saturday, St George’s Market is a must.

Expect:

It’s one of the best places in Northern Ireland to spend a relaxed morning.

On a clear day, Carrick-a-Rede is simply spectacular. The coastal scenery alone makes it worthwhile, and crossing the bridge remains one of Northern Ireland’s iconic experiences.

The Causeway Hotel offers one enormous advantage: location.

Being able to walk directly to the Giant’s Causeway early in the morning before crowds arrive is an incredible experience. Having the stones nearly empty creates a completely different atmosphere.

Still, travelers should know:

The location makes it worthwhile, but expectations should be realistic.

For travelers wanting an authentic sheepdog demonstration, Glenshane Country Farm stands out.

Jamese’s storytelling, knowledge, and clear passion for the dogs create an experience that feels personal and genuine.

Visitors interested in rural Irish life, working farms, or traditional shepherding should absolutely consider adding this stop in Northern Ireland.

Kinsale is charming, colorful, and filled with excellent restaurants, but it works better as a short stay than a long touring base.

Two nights is usually enough:

One nearby stop that truly surprised was the Lusitania Museum at the Old Head of Kinsale.

Located inside a restored Napoleonic watchtower, the Lusitania Museum tells the story of the ship’s sinking off the Cork coast in a surprisingly emotional and thoughtful way.

The museum itself is small, but the setting and storytelling leave a lasting impression.

For travelers already considering Titanic experiences in Ireland, this offers something different — a story many visitors know far less about.

Highlights include:

It’s a stop that deserves far more attention.

Ardmore in County Waterford combines luxury, scenery, and easy outdoor adventure beautifully.

The cliff walk here is:

Travelers wanting coastal scenery without the intensity or crowds of more famous locations should absolutely consider Ardmore.

And after a rainy afternoon, seaweed baths at the Cliff House Hotel make for a wonderfully relaxing experience.

The Waterford Greenway continues to be one of Ireland’s best outdoor activities.

An electric bike makes the route enjoyable for nearly anyone, and the scenery between Dungarvan and Waterford City is spectacular.

For travelers who don’t want to ride the full route, doing a partial out-and-back section from Dungarvan still delivers a fantastic experience.

Seeing puffins on the Saltee Islands is one of Ireland’s most unique wildlife experiences.

A few important tips:

The puffins are remarkably close once on the island, making photography easier than many travelers expect.

Westport is often overlooked because it sits north of the classic Dublin-to-Galway route, but it’s one of Ireland’s best touring bases.

From Westport, travelers can easily explore:

The town itself is lively and walkable, while nearby Westport Estate adds beautiful woodland walks and parkland.

Clare Island offers a quieter island experience with:

For travelers wanting an island experience beyond the Aran Islands, it’s an excellent option.

Achill is large enough that simply driving around and stopping for viewpoints can fill an entire day.

A sea safari is worth considering if time allows, but even a scenic drive alone makes for a memorable outing.

The biggest lesson from Inis Mór: a day trip isn’t enough.

Travelers often underestimate:

This is absolutely worth the extra cost.

The island is windy, distances are longer than expected, and the electric assist allows travelers to enjoy the scenery instead of fighting exhaustion.

Even after arriving at the site:

Travelers should plan accordingly.

For visitors on a short schedule, the Wormhole can consume more time than expected for relatively little reward.

Instead, spending additional time hiking, exploring ruins, or visiting the Black Fort may feel more worthwhile.

The ideal approach:

That extra time transforms the experience completely.

The Ireland Travel Compass brings together hundreds of places across the country and helps you turn ideas like these into a trip that fits your time and travel style.

Ireland rewards travelers who slow down a little, stay flexible, and leave room for unexpected discoveries. Some of the most memorable experiences from this trip weren’t the famous landmarks at all — they were the quieter moments, overlooked places, and conversations along the way.

And after five weeks on the road, one thing became very clear: there’s always another reason to come back to Ireland.

The post Ireland Travel Lessons From Five Weeks Around the Country appeared first on Ireland Family Vacations.