David M. Watts: Hello, fashion enthusiasts! Welcome to another exciting episode of "Just A Fashion Minute," the podcast where we explore the latest ideas in fashion and shine a spotlight on the incredible talents shaping our industry. I'm your host, David M. Watts, and I couldn't be more thrilled to have you join us today.

I have a truly fascinating guest lined up for this episode—Maurice Mullen. Maurice, who you may know from his influential roles at the London Evening Standard and ES Magazine, shares unparalleled insights from his extensive career in fashion publishing. We dive deep into some compelling topics, including the current state of print media, the evolving role of AI in fashion, and the indelible importance of quality journalism in today's digital age.

One of the standout moments in our conversation is Maurice's recounting of an unforgettable day at the Ascot races, where he unknowingly spent time with Rocco Ritchie, Madonna's son. Maurice also opens up about his early career decisions, moving from a potential legal career in Northern Ireland to following his passion for fashion in London. His stories are both enlightening and entertaining!

We'll also touch upon some pressing issues in the fashion world, from the impact of digital media on traditional magazines to Maurice's thoughts on the future of fashion publications. His views on the complementary relationship between print and digital media are sure to spark some thoughts.

And as always, we have our "Just A Fashion Minute News Round Up," where we bring you the latest buzz in the fashion world. This week, we'll be covering Jacquemus' quirky marketing strategies, Glenn Martens' transformation of Diesel into a lifestyle brand, and all the speculation surrounding Chanel's next creative director.

Don't forget to subscribe to "Just A Fashion Minute" on your podcasting app of choice so you never miss out on our latest episodes. Now, let's dive into this week's fascinating discussion with Maurice Mullen.

00:00 - Introduction and Just A Fashion Minute News Round-up: Updates on Jacquemus store openings, Diesel's collaboration with H&M, and Chanel creative director speculation.

05:01 - Early Fashion Interest: Maurice discusses buying Vogue magazines as a teenager in Northern Ireland during the mid-seventies.

07:54 - Career Transition: His journey from a legal career in Northern Ireland to London's publishing industry in the early eighties.

13:18 - Definition of Fashion: Maurice defines fashion as nonverbal communication, a language people use to convey how they want to be perceived.

15:57 - State of Print Media: Discussion on print media's resilience, with 13.6 million UK adults still reading daily print publications.

20:00 - Digital vs Print: Analysis of how print and digital media coexist rather than compete.

28:11 - Role of Professional Journalism: The importance of professional journalists in filtering accurate information from misinformation.

31:35 - AI in Fashion Publishing: Discussion on AI's role as an enabler rather than a replacement for creative professionals.

42:12 - Quick Fire Questions: Maurice answers questions about embarrassing fashion moments, industry unsung heroes, and his outfit.

Maurice Mullen is a prominent figure in fashion publishing with over three decades of experience. Until recently, he served as the head of luxury and fashion at the London Evening Standard Newspaper and ES Magazine. His career began unconventionally, transitioning from a legal background in Northern Ireland to London's publishing industry in the 1980s. Known for his expertise in luxury and fashion media, Mullen has worked with countless luxury brands globally and is a respected voice in fashion education, frequently speaking to students about the industry. He is Deputy Chair of the Graduate Fashion Foundation, the largest showcase of BA fashion in the world. Despite the digital revolution, he remains a strong advocate for print media's enduring value and the importance of quality journalism in fashion.

Maurice Mullen does not maintain any social media presence but can be found through professional networks and speaking engagements in the fashion industry.

• Vogue Magazine (which he started reading in his mid-teens in the 1970s)

Publications he worked for:

• Marketing Magazine
• Campaign Magazine
• Marie Claire UK 
• London Evening Standard Newspaper
• ES Magazine

Books mentioned:

• "Why Fashion Matters" by Frances Corner

Fashion stores he recommends:

• Grey Flannel in Chiltern Street, London
• Timothy Everest in London
• 10 Corso Como in Milan
• Rinascente department store in Milan
• Le Bon Marché in France
• La Samaritaine in Paris

Organisations:

• Graduate Fashion Foundation (where he serves as deputy chair)1
• Designer mentioned for his personal style:
• Karl Lagerfeld

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Copyright 2025 David M Watts

Hi there, fashion enthusiasts! This is David M. Watts, and welcome back to another exciting episode of "Just A Fashion Minute." Today, we have a truly exceptional show lined up for you. I'm thrilled to introduce our incredibly insightful guest, Peter Williams, the visionary founder of Jack Wills and the newly launched Aubin and Wills. Peter's career journey is nothing short of fascinating, and I can't wait for you to hear all about it.

On this episode, you'll hear Peter candidly discuss the evolution of menswear, touching on the rarity of colourful options in the UK and how his brand has creatively integrated those vibrant pops. He shares a thought-provoking perspective on why men often stick to the safety of blue and how that's influenced his design choices.

But it doesn't stop there. We'll delve into the challenges independent fashion brands face in this mega-corporation-dominated industry. Peter offers invaluable advice on building a successful business, the importance of a clear brand narrative, and the vital role of a skilled and reliable team.

One of my favourite parts is when Peter recounts his journey as an entrepreneur, marked by both failures and triumphs. From an economics and strategy consultant to a fashion mogul, his story is a testament to the power of perseverance and self-belief.

What's new? As always, we have our "Just A Fashion Minute News Round Up" to keep you updated on the latest in the fashion world. You won't want to miss the exciting collaborations and notable changes happening among top designers and brands.

So, sit back, relax, and enjoy this insightful conversation. And hey, don't forget to subscribe to "Just A Fashion Minute" on your podcasting app of choice. That way, you'll never miss an episode brimming with insider fashion knowledge and inspiration. Happy listening!

00:00 - Introduction and Just A Fashion Minute News Round Up

05:46 - Peter's unconventional route into the fashion industry: Peter discusses his background in economics and strategy consulting before starting Jack Wills.

07:11 - The genesis of Jack Wills: Peter explains how his "23-year-old midlife crisis" led to the creation of Jack Wills, inspired by the spirit of youth and British heritage.

14:08 - The importance of experiences in shaping career paths: Peter shares how his time at an American boarding school influenced the creation of Jack Wills.

17:16 - The creation of Aubin and Wills: Peter explains the business model behind Aubin and Wills as a brand for Jack Wills customers who had grown up.

20:19 - Innovative marketing strategies: Peter discusses creative ways of marketing Jack Wills, including reaching out to head boys and girls of private schools.

25:43 - The future of independent fashion brands: Peter shares his thoughts on competing with mega-corporations in the fashion landscape.

32:55 - Advice for young fashion brands: Peter encourages aspiring entrepreneurs to take risks and start their businesses while young.

35:47 - Quickfire questions: Peter discusses embarrassing fashion moments, favourite retailers, and his look of the day.

Peter Williams is a pioneering British fashion entrepreneur known for founding two successful retail brands. As the creator of Jack Wills in 1999, he transformed a small startup into a significant fashion business with international reach, including stores across Asia, the Middle East, and the United States. Williams launched the brand at age 23 after leaving a career in strategy consulting, driven by what he calls his "23-year-old midlife crisis." His entrepreneurial vision was shaped by his experiences at Salisbury School in Connecticut during his gap year, where he was immersed in American prep culture that would later influence his brand aesthetic. Under his leadership, Jack Wills grew to become a notable British fashion retailer before his eventual departure from the company. In 2020, Williams returned to the fashion industry by relaunching Aubin and Wills, a sophisticated menswear brand originally created as a mature extension of Jack Wills. The brand operates with a carefully curated retail strategy, maintaining three standalone stores and a presence in 27 John Lewis retail locations. Williams currently serves as the brand guardian, focusing on storytelling and brand narrative while working alongside a handpicked team of industry veterans. Known for his innovative marketing approaches, Williams pioneered early influencer marketing strategies, including his successful campaign targeting head boys and girls at British private schools. His business philosophy centres on the importance of building strong teams and maintaining authentic brand narratives while delivering quality products at appropriate price points.

Instagram: @aubinandwills

Website: www.aubinandwills.com

• Ralph Lauren
• Soho House
• John Lewis
• Burford Garden Centre
• Abraham Moon
• Timberland

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Copyright 2025 David M Watts

Hello, fashion aficionados! Welcome back to Just A Fashion Minute. I'm your host, David M. Watts, and today we have an incredible episode lined up for you. Our guest, Christopher Yu, takes us on a deep dive into the world of fragrance, sharing insights on sustainability, the art of perfumery, and the evolving language of smell. Christopher's experiences working with LMR and his passion for protecting the planet and the people within the fragrance industry truly shine through in this episode.

We'll also explore Christopher's embarrassing fashion moment, discuss trending comfort scents, and delve into the global fragrance market's predicted growth. Plus, we have the latest in fashion news, from Gucci's cruise 2025 show at the Tate Modern to the excitement surrounding the opening of Dover Street Market in Paris.

And as always, we have our Just A Fashion Minute News Round Up to keep you updated on the latest happenings in the fashion world.

Don't forget to subscribe on your favourite podcasting app to catch all our episodes and stay connected with the world of fashion. So, sit back, relax, and let's dive into the fascinating world of fashion and fragrance with Christopher Yu.

00:00:01 Introduction and overview of the episode

Just A Fashion Minute News Round-up and overview of the podcast episode topics.

00:06:01 Early interest in fragrance

Christopher Yu shares how he became interested in fragrance from a young age, including anecdotes about playing in duty-free shops as a child.

00:07:07 Fragrance memory triggers

Discussion on how certain smells can trigger nostalgic memories, like the smell of steamed rice reminding Chris of his childhood home.

00:07:57 Career influences

Chris credits influential people like Laurent Delafon and Olivier Polge who helped shape his fragrance career early on.

00:09:19 Bringing Diptyque to UK

Introducing the Diptyque fragrance brand to the UK market in the late 1990s.

00:10:04 Fashion/fragrance connection

Exploring the connection between fashion and fragrance as projections of one's self and personal style.

00:11:46 Defining fashion

Christopher Hu provides his definition of fashion as an expression reflecting a point in time.

00:13:38 Sustainability in fragrance

In-depth discussion on sustainability practices in the fragrance industry and Chris's perspective on what true sustainability means.

00:18:57 Price variations in fragrance

Explanation for why there are significant price variations between different fragrance brands.

00:20:14 Describing smells

Tips on how to better describe and articulate different smells beyond basic vocabulary.

00:22:48 Fragrance trends

Discussion on current fragrance trends like scents reminiscent of Play-Doh, lipstick and hemp as consumers seek out comforting smells post-pandemic.

00:24:41 Growth of global fragrance market

Exploring what is driving the projected growth of the global fragrance market in the coming years.

00:26:54 Creating Ostens fragrances

The years-long process Chris went through in creating and developing his own Ostens fragrance brand.

00:31:11 Meaning behind wearing fragrance

Whether people wear fragrance just to smell good or if there are deeper meanings and emotional reasons behind it.

00:32:23 Ostens brand purpose

Chris shares the driving purpose behind his Ostens brand: to spotlight talented creators in the industry.

00:33:09 Redefining fragrance

How Chris believes the fragrance industry should be redefined, valuing creators and respecting the product.

00:33:30 Quickfire questions

Rapid-fire questions about fashion/fragrance topics.

00:39:01 Closing remarks

Closing thoughts and appreciation for you, the listeners, as the podcast season wraps up.

Christopher Yu, an industry expert with over two decades of experience in the perfume sector, is renowned for his exceptional ability to transform fragrance ventures into successful enterprises. Originally from New Zealand, Christopher began his career in law and accounting, practicing tax litigation at PricewaterhouseCoopers in Wellington. In 1999, he relocated to London, where he initially worked as a solicitor in investment banking.

In 2002, Christopher shifted his focus to the fragrance industry, starting a niche fragrance distribution business for the luxury candle pioneer Diptyque. This venture was highly successful, and in 2007, after selling the business to Manzanita Capital, he co-founded United Perfumes with business partner Laurent Delafon. Under his leadership, United Perfumes has launched and elevated numerous high-profile fragrance brands globally, including Fragonard, Apothia Los Angeles, Olivina Napa Valley, Maison Francis Kurkdjian, and Cire Trudon.

Christopher has also been instrumental in creating and defining home fragrance brands under licence for prestigious fashion and design houses such as Anya Hindmarch, Paul Smith, Alexander McQueen, and the Italian design icon Fornasetti. His strategic vision and innovative approach have not only shaped his career but have also made a significant impact on the luxury fragrance industry. Christopher Yu's journey from a legal and financial background to becoming a fragrance mogul exemplifies his diverse skills and his ability to identify and cultivate luxury brands in the competitive perfume market.

Instagram https://www.instagram.com/chrisyusmells/

Website https://ostens.com/

Linktree https://linktr.ee/chrisyusmells

• Laurent Delafon
• Jacques Polge
• Olivier Polge
• Monique Remy
• Bertrand de Preville
• Gucci
• Dover Street Market
• Diptyque
• Fragonard
• Apothia Los Angeles
• Olivina Napa Valley
• Maison Francis Kurkdjian
• Cire Trudon
• Anya Hindmarch
• Paul Smith
• Alexander McQueen
• Fornasetti
• Christie's
• Sotheby's
• Yves Saint Laurent
• Karl Lagerfeld
• Freddie Mercury
• Vivienne Westwood
• Chanel
• Dior
• Jo Malone
• Tom Ford
• Estee Lauder
• Acqua Di Parma
• Laboratoire Monique Rémy (LMR)

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Copyright 2025 David M Watts

Hey there, fashion enthusiasts! Welcome back to Just A Fashion Minute, I'm your host, David M. Watts. In this week's episode, we have the incredibly talented stylist and designer, Harris Elliott, joining us for a captivating discussion on the impact of AI in the fashion industry, the unique challenges faced by stylists, and the power of fashion as a form of identity.

Harris shares insightful experiences from his impressive career, including working with high-profile clients such as Gorillaz & Pharrell, and his involvement in thought-provoking exhibitions such as "The Missing Thread" at Somerset House. We dive into the world of fashion styling, the essence of fashion as a means of expression, and the fascinating alchemy of styling that combines various elements to create visually impactful looks.

We also discuss Tokyo Rakuten Fashion Week, the significant early influences on Harris's career, and much more. As always, we have our Just A Fashion Minute News Roundup, bringing you the latest updates from the exciting world of fashion.

If you enjoyed this episode, don't forget to subscribe on your favourite podcasting app to stay up-to-date with our latest fashion discussions and interviews. Let's dive into the world of fashion with Harris Elliott!

00:00:01 - Intro and Background

Introduction to the podcast "Just A Fashion Minute" and overview of the topic of fashion styling.

00:05:51 - Tokyo Fashion Week

Harris shares his thoughts on Tokyo Fashion Week restarting with international buyers and the press, which he sees as good news for Japanese fashion.

00:07:08 - Dries Van Noten Succession

Discussion of Belgian designer Dries Van Noten stepping down and the succession plans for his brand.

00:09:39 - Early Fashion Influences

Harris Elliott shares his earliest memories and influences that sparked his interest in fashion, including shop window displays and military regalia.

00:11:11 - Career Start with Judy Blame

How Harris got his start in fashion by cold-calling stylist Judy Blame, who gave him opportunities that launched his styling career.

00:13:15 - Defining Fashion as Identity

Harris defines fashion as identity, relating to attitude, stance, cultural context and self-expression.

00:17:56 - Working with Japanese Clients

Harris explains why he loves working with Japanese clients, who have a deep understanding and respect for his creative role.

00:22:07 - Styling Examples

Harris provides examples of his styling work, including projects with Gorillaz putting the band in head-to-toe pink looks, and styling Pharrell Williams.

00:25:22 - Challenges with Brands

Harris describes some of the challenges and mistreatment stylists can face from brands that don't understand or value their role properly.

00:28:09 - AI Already Existing

Harris points out that AI technology for styling is already being used, like virtual fitting rooms, and will continue advancing.

00:30:46 - "The Missing Thread" Exhibition

Discussion of the concept and creation of the groundbreaking exhibition "The Missing Thread" at Somerset House, spotlighting underrepresented Black British fashion designers.

00:35:00 - Being a Black Male Stylist

Harris discusses his perspective as a Black male stylist and how he has moved the needle on perception of stylists in the industry.

00:36:59 - AI Impact on Styling

Exploring how artificial intelligence is already impacting and may continue to transform the role of the fashion stylist.

00:39:12 - AI Perspectives

Harris and David discuss their perspectives on the AI revolution in fashion, seeing it as both necessary but needing to be carefully monitored.

00:42:42 - Quick Fire Questions

Rapid fire questions included an embarrassing fashion moment, Harris' favourite store, an unsung hero shoutout, and describing his outfit.

Harris Elliott, a multifaceted creative director, curator, and stylist based in London, is renowned for his unique approach that blends fashion, art, and socio-political narratives. His guiding principle, "Culture Without Compromise," underscores his dedication to storytelling with integrity and vigour. Elliott's notable work includes curating "The Missing Thread" at Somerset House, an exhibition that delves into the contributions of Black British designers to the fashion industry. He has also made significant strides internationally, particularly in Japan, where his collaborations have bridged cultural divides.

Elliott's portfolio showcases a wide range of projects, from immersive exhibitions like "Return of the Rudeboy" to global campaigns for brands such as Adidas and Puma. His ability to create compelling visual narratives has earned him acclaim and a diverse client base in the music, fashion, and luxury sectors. Beyond his professional endeavours, Elliott contributes to the future of fashion as a Senior MA Lecturer at the Royal College of Art, where he encourages a collective and innovative approach to design challenges.

Through his work, Elliott not only challenges the status quo but also celebrates diversity and the power of creativity to connect and inspire. His impact on the fashion and art worlds is a testament to his vision and commitment to cultural relevance and commercial viability, making him a pivotal figure in contemporary creative discourse.

Instagram https://www.instagram.com/harriselliottstudio/

Website https://harriselliott.com/

Le Tings https://www.instagram.com/letings_/

• We are the Bold Agency
• Christopher Nemeth's store in Japan
• Designer Takeo Kikuchi
• Dries van Noten fashion label
• Rakuten, Tokyo Fashion Week
• "The Missing Thread" exhibition at Somerset House

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Copyright 2025 David M Watts

Hello, fashion enthusiasts! I'm David M. Watts, your host for Just A Fashion Minute, and I'm thrilled to welcome you to this week's episode featuring the insightful Kenny Annan-Jonathan. We have an engaging conversation lined up, discussing the intersection of sports and fashion, the impact of influential figures in these industries, and the evolving nature of luxury and consumer awareness.

Kenny shares intriguing insights about professional athletes venturing into fashion as a post-sports career revenue stream, the challenges they face, and the growing awareness of overconsumption. We delve into the influence of sports personalities, including their off-field endeavours and their involvement in the fashion industry. Kenny also sheds light on the importance of personal values and ethical considerations in the fashion industry, drawing from his experience as a black entrepreneur and founder of The Mail Room sports marketing agency.

As always, we have our Just A Fashion Minute News Round Up, bringing you the latest updates on fashion and retail trends, including the debuts, expansions, challenges, and evolutions in the industry.

Don't forget to subscribe on your podcasting app of choice to stay updated on all our future episodes. Join us as we explore the dynamic world of fashion and its intersection with various spheres of influence.

00:01 - Introduction

Just A Fashion Minute News Roundup and Welcome Kenny Annan-Jonathan.

04:03 - Nike's Challenges & Innovation

Discussion on Nike's recent struggles with innovation and connecting with cultural trends/collaborators.

07:19 - Kenny's Background in Fashion

Kenny shares how his older sister's musical interests and style influenced his early exposure to fashion. He also talks about starting his own streetwear brand.

13:33 - Mentorship from Darren Skey

Kenny highlights how Darren Skey, formerly of Harvey Nichols, provided crucial mentorship early on regarding the business side of fashion.

16:13 - Defining Fashion

Kenny defines fashion as an outward expression of inner feelings.

17:10 - Sports & Fashion Relationship

The growing relationship between sports, especially football/soccer, and the fashion industry is discussed.

20:02 - Nike's Nigeria Kit Impact

Analysis of the cultural significance behind the viral success of Nike's Nigeria kit compared to England's.

24:21 - Addressing Racism in Sports

Kenny discusses if he has faced any racism while working in sports/fashion and how representation matters.

26:43 - David Beckham's Fashion Statements

David Beckham is cited as an athlete who used fashion to make bold statements and be expressive.

28:45 - Non-Traditional Sports & Fashion

Kenny highlights how non-traditional sports like the Paralympics, boxing, and skateboarding are embracing fashion collaborations.

33:25 - Athletes Pursuing Fashion Post-Career

The trend of professional athletes pursuing fashion as a revenue stream after retiring from sports.

36:02 - Risks of Working with Athlete Brands

Discussion on the potential risks brands face when working with athlete endorsers who may misbehave.

37:52 - Being a Black Founder in Sports Marketing

Kenny shares his experience as a black man and founder of a sports marketing agency navigating the industry.

40:48 - Advice for Newcomers

Context: Kenny's advice for newcomers trying to make it in the sports/fashion industries.

42:12 - Quick Fire Questions

Quick fire questions on embarrassing fashion moments, favourite stores, unsung heroes, and his outfit that day.

Kenny Annan-Jonathan is a pioneering figure in the intersection of sports and fashion, currently serving as the first-ever creative director for the English Premier League football club, Crystal Palace. Born in Battersea, South London, to a mother who emigrated from Ghana, Annan-Jonathan has always been drawn to the creative arts. He began his career as a graphic designer before venturing into fashion, where he launched a successful clothing line in the mid-2000s that gained prominence in London and attracted a following among celebrities and athletes, including footballer Wilfred Zaha.

Annan-Jonathan's relationship with Zaha evolved from fashion collaboration to a business partnership, leading to the co-founding of the brand Long Live Studio. Recognising a gap in the market for athlete representation beyond traditional sports management, he founded The Mailroom in 2017. This bespoke sports marketing agency aims to enhance the visibility and branding of athletes and sports brands through creative and organic partnerships.

His innovative approach and understanding of the cultural convergence between sports and fashion led to his historic appointment at Crystal Palace. Here, he is responsible for overseeing apparel collections and fashion partnerships, aiming to redefine how sports teams engage with fashion and expand their brand influence

Instagram https://www.instagram.com/freeagent/

LinkedIn https://www.linkedin.com/in/kenny-annan-jonathan-46941687

The Mailroom https://www.instagram.com/themailroom/

Trnsmission https://www.instagram.com/trnsmission/

• Steve Victor
• Gevonta
• Tyshawn John Jones
• Louis Vuitton
• Ramla Ali
• Nike
• Daily Paper
• Off White
• Pharrell Williams
• LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy)
• Amiri
• Human Made
• Ambush
• Uniqlo
• Diesel
• Crystal Palace
• Nigeria's kit
• Dunhill
• On
• The Mail Room Sports Marketing

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Copyright 2025 David M Watts

Hello fashion enthusiasts, and welcome to "Just A Fashion Minute"! I'm your host, David M. Watts, and I'm thrilled to bring you another exciting episode. This week, we have a very special guest, Dean Cleary Patterson, joining us to discuss diversity and inclusion in the fashion industry. We'll delve into the challenges and progress in representing models from different backgrounds, ethnicities, and body types.

We'll hear Dean's unconventional approach to scouting models and his emphasis on embracing imperfections and realness in their look. We'll also explore the impact of leading figures like Naomi Campbell, who are using their platforms to address these issues in the industry.

As always, we have our Just A Fashion Minute News Round Up to keep you updated on the latest buzz in the fashion world. From the impact of using phones during fashion shows to a debate on the industry's diversity in models, we've got you covered!

So, sit back, relax, and prepare to dive into the fascinating world of fashion with us. And don't forget to subscribe on your podcasting app of choice to stay in the loop with all our latest episodes. Let's get started!

00:00:00 - Introduction

David M. Watts introduces the podcast episode and the special guest, Dean Cleary Patterson. He sets the stage for a discussion on fashion, diversity, and representation in the modelling industry.

00:02:15 - Lack of Diversity in Fashion Industry

The conversation kicks off with a discussion on the lack of diversity in the fashion industry, particularly concerning the underrepresentation of people of colour in leadership positions in modelling agencies, fashion brands, and related industries. The impact of movements like Black Lives Matter on this issue is highlighted.

00:08:43 - Diversity and Inclusion Challenges

The conversation explores the challenges and setbacks in achieving diversity and inclusion in the fashion industry, including pay discrepancies, tokenism, and the perception of moving backward in terms of progress. The role of influential figures like Naomi Campbell in addressing these issues is also touched upon.

00:15:20 - Designing for Diverse Body Types

The discussion shifts to the challenges of designing for diverse body types in the fashion industry, and the industry's use of "sample size" measurements for catwalk shows. Dean Cleary Patterson highlights the need for openness and accommodation for diverse body types and muses in the fashion industry.

00:20:58 - Models' Well-Being and Agency's Approach

The conversation delves into the well-being of models, with a focus on issues such as severe dieting, burnout, and body image pressure. Dean Cleary Patterson's hands-on approach at his agency, D-One, is discussed, emphasising the responsibility of modelling agencies in addressing these issues.

00:25:40 - Personal Perspectives on Fashion

The hosts and guests express their personal perspectives on fashion, individuality in dressing, and the representation of models from different backgrounds, ethnicities, and body types. Dean Cleary Patterson explains his unconventional approach to scouting models, seeking imperfections and realness in their look.

00:30:00 - Industry Encounters and Unsung Heroes

Dean Cleary Patterson shares personal encounters in the fashion industry, from feeling out of place at a fashion show to discussing a now-closed boutique in Paris. He also mentions an unsung hero in the industry, James Scully, known for his honest critiques.

00:34:29 - Closing Remarks

David M. Watts and Dean Cleary Patterson wrap up the conversation, reflecting on the importance of diversity and openness in the fashion industry. Dean provides his Instagram handle, @d1models, for those interested in modelling advice or connecting with him.

Dean Cleary Patterson is the founder of D1 Model Management, a prominent figure in the fashion and modelling industry known for his innovative approach to talent management. With extensive experience in the UK's top modelling agencies, Patterson has made D1 a notable agency that represents professional models for global brands like Dior, Prada, and Burberry. He was instrumental in launching the career of top model Harry Uzoka and has expanded his expertise into television and film production. Patterson's commitment to diversity and inclusion is reflected in D1 Model Management's diverse roster of talent, making him a key influencer in shaping the future of fashion and entertainment.

Instagram https://www.instagram.com/dcp2012/

Website https://www.d1models.com/

• Black Lives Matter
• Naomi Campbell
• "sample size" measurements for catwalk shows
• Saint Laurent
• Nudie Jeans
• D1Models
• Iris Apfel
• Anna Wintour
• Collettes boutique in Paris
• James Scully
• Margiela
• Vanessa Friedman

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Copyright 2025 David M Watts

Hello fashion enthusiasts! Welcome to this week's episode of "Just A Fashion Minute." I'm your host, David M. Watts, and I'm excited to share with you the highlights of our latest guest, the talented Simon Frederick.

This episode is packed with thought-provoking discussions about representation, diversity, and the power of black storytelling in the television and media industry. We also delve into the world of fashion with Simon's insights into the distinction between style and fashion, as well as his personal fashion experiences and influences.

As always, we have our Just A Fashion Minute News Round Up, where we'll cover the latest updates from the fashion industry, including exciting news about Kevin McDonald's new documentary, the recent appointment of Adrian Appiolaza at MOSCHINO, and the relaunch of Donna Karen New York by G Three Apparel Group.

I encourage you to hit the subscribe button on your preferred podcasting app to never miss an episode of "Just A Fashion Minute." So, grab your favourite beverage, sit back, and join us for an engaging and enlightening discussion with Simon Frederick.

00:00 Introduction

Host David M. Watts introduces the podcast episode and welcomes guest Simon Frederick, a renowned photographer, filmmaker, and producer.

02:15 National Portrait Gallery

Simon Frederick discusses the recognition and pride of having his portraits displayed in the National Portrait Gallery, highlighting the lack of diversity and representation of non-white achievers in the gallery's collection.

06:45 Global Appeal of Portraits

Frederick mentions the global appeal of his portraits, sharing an anecdote about Stevie Wonder's sons expressing interest in seeing them.

09:30 "Black is the New Black" Documentary

The guest discusses his documentary, "Black is the New Black," featuring prominent black British successful people, aiming to represent them in a new light.

12:20 Importance of Representation

Simon Frederick emphasizes the importance of representation and the impact his work has on making people feel represented, highlighting the multicultural Britain's lack of reflection in the National Portrait Gallery collection.

16:00 Fashion and Style

Frederick shares his perspective on fashion and style, distinguishing between the two and expressing his views on the fashion industry. He likens style to "God" and fashion to "religion," defining style as a deeper, more personal expression.

19:40 Black Audiences in Television and Media

The discussion shifts to the underappreciated power of black audiences in television and media, highlighting the lack of representation and diversity in the industry.

23:15 Upcoming Fashion Documentaries

Frederick mentions plans for future fashion documentaries, including one about Oswald Boateng and men's tailoring, and discusses the need for better representation in the industry.

26:00 Embarrassing Fashion Moments

Simon Frederick shares his most embarrassing fashion moments, including mishaps with cardigans.

28:10 Unsung Heroes in Fashion

The guest highlights an unsung hero in the fashion industry, Charlie Allen, a black tailor known for his craftsmanship.

31:00 Unique Style in Tailoring

Frederick discusses his unique style in tailoring and mentions Mark and Charlie's styles as being loved by many.

33:45 Standing Up for Style

Simon Frederick talks about wearing a hoodie in protest after being challenged at an arts club and argues against the rule.

36:20 Fashion "Uniform"

Host David M. Watts praises Simon for wearing Yoji Yamamoto and all black, which is Simon's fashion "uniform."

39:00 Conclusion and Next Episode Preview

Self-taught artist, photographer, filmmaker, and broadcaster Simon Frederick was born in London to Grenadian parents. His multidisciplinary work seeks to explore society, culture and human nature. He has produced and directed the award-winning documentary series Black is the New Black (2016) and They've Gotta Have Us (2018), which feature notable black artists in cinema today. Frederick served as a judge on the Sky Arts series Master of Photography and has been profiled as one of 2018's 100 'Most Influential Black Britons' in the category of Media, Publishing and Entertainment.

Instagram https://www.instagram.com/simonfrederick/?hl=en

IMDB https://www.imdb.com/name/nm8584645/

National Portrait Gallery https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person/mp160084/simon-frederick

• National Portrait Gallery
• Documentary "Black is the New Black"
• Kevin McDonald's documentary about fashion designer John Galliano
• Adrian Appiolaza
• Moschino
• Donna Karen New York
• G three apparel group
• Chanel jewellery salon on New York's Fifth Avenue
• Ebony Magazine
• Essence Magazine
• Oswald Boateng
• Charlie Allen tailoring
• Yohji Yamamoto

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Copyright 2025 David M Watts

Hello and welcome to Just A Fashion Minute! I'm your host, David M. Watts, and I'm excited to bring you another insightful episode. Today, we have the pleasure of diving into a thought-provoking discussion with the brilliant Melanie Rickey, a prominent figure in fashion journalism and sustainability advocacy.

In this episode, we have covered a wide range of topics, from the growth and sustainability of luxury conglomerates to the pressing environmental impact of overconsumption in the fashion industry. We delved into Melanie's inspiring project, "TheEnoughness," which aims to redefine our relationship with consumerism and promote sustainability.

We also explored the psychology of consumer behaviour, the quantification of "enoughness," and the importance of adopting a sustainable mindset. Not to forget, we also enjoyed some fashion highlights, including Mark Jacobs' 40th-anniversary show and the exciting trend of male nail polish.

And of course, as always, we have our Just A Fashion Minute News Roundup, where we bring you the latest updates from the fashion world.

If you enjoyed this episode, don't forget to subscribe to your favourite podcasting app to stay updated with our latest episodes. And be sure to tune in for our next insightful conversation.

Thank you for listening, and I hope you enjoy this episode as much as we enjoyed creating it!

00:00 Introduction by David M. Watts:

The host introduces the podcast and mentions the guest, Melanie Rickey, known for fashion journalism and sustainability advocacy.

01:25 Melanie Rickey's Career Journey:

Melanie Rickey's career started at the independent newspaper after studying fashion journalism at the London College of Fashion. She recounts early setbacks, such as facing rejection when she applied for a job at Vogue, and discusses the positive experiences that followed, including working with Hilary Alexander and hiring an assistant who went on to have a successful career in the fashion industry.

07:45 Melanie Rickey's Struggle with Addiction:

Melanie openly discusses her struggles with addiction and the associated pressures of the fashion industry, highlighting the positive impact of her time in rehab. She reflects on her entry into the fashion world and how it allowed her to escape personal issues temporarily, leading to addiction and eventual rehabilitation.

15:10 The Darker Side of Fashion:

Melanie and David define fashion as a cultural expression and a reflection of society, but they also discuss the darker side of fashion, linking it to environmental and social issues. They highlight the fashion industry as a major polluter and discuss it in the context of consumerism and social media influence.

20:30 Sustainability and Responsible Production:

The conversation delves into the impact of luxury conglomerates such as LVMH, Kering, and fast fashion companies like Shein and H&M on the fashion industry. There is a focus on sustainability and responsible production, with Melanie raising concerns about the growth and sustainability of luxury conglomerates and the environmental impacts of fast fashion.

28:15 Overconsumption and Environmental Impact:

Melanie expresses concern about the finite resources of the planet and the implications of overconsumption, particularly within the fashion industry, pointing out the environmental impact and waste. The discussion leads to the introduction of Rickey's new project, "TheEnoughness," aiming to address the issues raised in the conversation.

34:50 The Psychology of Consumer Behaviour:

The conversation delves into the psychology of consumer behaviour, with Rickey emphasising how companies manipulate consumer desires through social media and marketing and the need for individuals to resist this manipulation and reevaluate their consumption habits.

40:20 Introduction to "Enoughness":

Melanie Rickey discusses the concept of "TheEnoughness," which focuses on achieving satisfaction with just the right amount of possessions and living by one's values. She highlights the negative impact of overconsumption and compares it to an age of mass addiction, emphasising the need for a new approach.

46:10 Implementing "Enoughness" in the Fashion Industry:

Melanie advocates for finding balance and changing behaviour towards a more sustainable and fulfilling lifestyle. She also discusses the quantification of "TheEnoughness" and cites a report proposing a sufficiency wardrobe of 74 items. She encourages future fashion leaders to adopt an "enoughness mindset" by promoting sustainable practices such as reusing, remaking, and adopting a sustainable approach.

Melanie Rickey is a prominent figure in the fashion journalism world, best known for her influential role as the fashion editor-at-large for Grazia magazine. Her career has spanned various aspects of fashion journalism and consultancy, where she has made significant contributions to promoting ethical fashion and sustainability within the industry. Melanie’s work extends beyond editorial endeavours, as she has also been involved in creative consultancy, focusing on fashion and sustainability. Melanie’s commitment to ethical fashion, combined with her personal and professional achievements, showcases her as a multifaceted individual who has significantly impacted the fashion industry.

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/melaniejrickey/

TheEnoughness: https://www.instagram.com/theenoughness/

• "Sapiens" by Yuval Noah Harari
• Hot or Cool Institute (report referencing sufficiency wardrobe)
• Liberty (retail store)
• Aime Leon Dore (retail store)
• Kate Fletcher (advocate for slow fashion)
• "the enoughness" (Melanie Rickey's Instagram account)
• H&M
• LVMH
• Kering
• Shein
• Saint Laurent
• Vogue
• Gap Inc.
• Mark Jacobs
• London College of Fashion
• Twelve-step program (in the context of therapy)
• Grazia Magazine

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Copyright 2025 David M Watts

Hello fashion enthusiasts! Welcome to Just A Fashion Minute. I'm David M. Watts, your host, and I'm thrilled to bring you another insightful episode.

This week, we had the pleasure of hosting the brilliant Julian Vogel, who shared invaluable insights into the fashion industry. From the challenges faced by fashion college graduates to the evolving role of PR in the digital age, Julian's perspectives shed light on the multilayered world of fashion.

We delved into the complexities of the fashion business, highlighting the need for a collaborative approach between fashion and business schools to better equip emerging designers for success. Julian also emphasised the unsung heroes of the industry, including PR and production personnel, and shared his experiences in providing comprehensive information to journalists about the designers he represents.

As always, we have our Just A Fashion Minute News Round Up, delivering the latest updates from the fashion world. From designer movements and brand expansions to the impact of financial influences, we've got you covered.

Don't forget to subscribe to your podcasting app of choice, and stay tuned for more engaging discussions and industry insights. Let's redefine fashion together!

00:00 - Introduction

Host David M. Watts introduces the podcast as a platform to redefine fashion and showcase talent in the industry. He briefly mentions the previous episode's topic and introduces today's guest, Julian Vogel, who will discuss the evolving role of PR in fashion, social media's impact, and offer tips for aspiring fashion professionals.

02:35 - Fashion Industry Updates

The episode opens with the host and guest discussing recent news in the fashion industry, including Jacquemus’s CEO stepping down, speculation about Simon Porte Jacquemus’s potential move to Givenchy, and the current vacant creative director role at Givenchy. They also touch on American designer Matthew Williams' exit from Givenchy, AMI’s expansion to a second retail site in London, and speculation about designer Ricardo Tisci potentially launching his own label after leaving Burberry.

06:15 - Impact of Financial Influences on Fashion Creativity

Julian Vogel reflects on the influx of money into the fashion industry in the '90s, leading to the rise of super groups and venture capital. The host and guest discuss the impact of financial influences on the fashion industry's creativity and passion, as well as the challenges of growing fashion businesses and the competition from mega corporations. They also touch on the industry's shift towards multi billion-Euro turnovers for brands like Dior and Louis Vuitton.

13:45 - Julian Vogel's Role in the Fashion Industry

Julian Vogel discussed his involvement in the fashion industry, noting his meeting with the V&A and their recognition of his role as the "engine behind fashion." He highlighted the launch of Maison Margaux, a rental service for tableware, china, glassware, and linens, which gained traction during lockdown by lending items to people for home events. The discussion also touched on Vogel's Instagram presence and the Modus BPCM site.

17:20 - Impact of Social Media on the Fashion Industry

Host and guest discuss the impact of social media on the fashion industry, highlighting the need for brands to work harder to create more content for various platforms and reach their target audience. They also discuss the challenges that the crowded media environment and digital touchpoints pose for newer and younger brands to compete and stand out.

22:10 - Tips for Aspiring Fashion Professionals

The conversation shifts to advice for aspiring fashion professionals, emphasising the importance of authenticity, originality, and relevancy in creating content and networking with influential individuals such as stylists and editors. They also touch on the potential opportunities for exposure through collaborations and showcases with other designers, and the challenges with industry attitudes and personal conflicts that hinder the potential of opportunities like showrooms and meetings with influential figures.

Julian Vogel is a renowned figure in the fashion PR world, celebrated for his strategic vision and innovative approach at ModusBPCM, where he has played a pivotal role since the early stages of his career.

His journey in fashion PR began with a foundational experience at Jean Bennett PR, managing PR for Vivienne Westwood, which set the stage for his illustrious career. Vogel's leadership facilitated the merger of Modus with agency BPCM, in 2017, expanding the agency's expertise into new sectors such as health, lifestyle and beauty. His work with iconic brands and designers, including Katharine Hamnett, Tom Ford, Calvin Klein, and Vivienne Westwood, underscores his capacity to elevate the public relations of globally recognised names.

Under his guidance, Modus Publicity has not only retained long-standing clients like Calvin Klein for over 28 years but has also expanded its portfolio to include emerging beauty brands and major players in the industry. Vogel's approach to PR, blending traditional media with modern platforms like social media and micro-influencer programmes, showcases his adaptability and forward-thinking in a rapidly evolving industry.

Website: https://www.modusbpcm.com/

Article: https://www.modusbpcm.com/ceo-julian-vogel-interviews-with-the-worlds-best-events/

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/mrjulianvogel/?hl=en-gb

Tableware Business: https://maisonmargauxltd.com/

• ModusBPCM
• Jacquemus
• Givenchy
• Alyx (fashion brand)
• AMI (French designer brand)
• Riccardo Tisci
• Burberry
• Maison Margaux( rental service for tableware)

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Copyright 2025 David M Watts

Hi there, fashion enthusiasts! Welcome back to Just A Fashion Minute. I'm your host, David M. Watts, and I'm thrilled to bring you an exciting episode. Today, we have the incredible Caryn Franklin joining us as our guest, and trust me, the insights she shares are absolutely groundbreaking.

We dive into the increasing presence of luxury brands and their creative leads in the fashion industry, emphasising the importance of excitement, drama, and emotional sensation in fashion shows. We touch on the lack of diversity in senior creative roles in luxury corporations and Caryn's earliest fashion memories and career journey. She holds nothing back as she delves into topics of racism, white privilege, and the benefits of diversity in fashion teams.

As always, we have our Just A Fashion Minute News Round Up to keep you in the loop, so don't forget to subscribe on your podcasting app of choice. Happy listening!

01:31 NEWS Alessandro Michele potentially joining Fendi and the state of Fendi Womenswear; Menswear fashion talks, including quiet luxury, classic and heritage tailoring, avant-garde offerings, and impact of designers like JW Anderson and Olivier Rousteing; Highlighting of menswear brands, including Todd Snyder and S.S. Daley, with emphasis on their collections and creative directors

05:16 Discussion on the situation at Gucci following the exit of Alessandro Michele and the lukewarm reception of new creative director Sabato De Sarno’s collections; Recognition of British menswear brand Martine Rose and the lack of women, especially women of colour, in creative director roles in the fashion industry

09:41 Launch of a new beauty division by luxury group Richemont and the growth of the beauty industry, including celebrity brands and the luxe beauty market; Caryn Franklin recalls an incident where she unknowingly made a negative comment about her outfit over a mic at a fashion show; Caryn Franklin expresses her preference for sustainable and secondhand clothing, highlighting her reluctance to promote new fashion products

14:21 Caryn Franklin praises Safia Minney for her work in ethical fashion and promoting fair trade, particularly in Bangladesh; Caryn Franklin talks about her involvement in a documentary on predators in fashion and the objectification of women

19:06 Caryn Franklin discusses her earliest fashion memory, her career beginnings in fashion media, and her involvement in The Clothes Show, a groundbreaking fashion TV show; The show's high viewership and global reach, and Franklin's efforts to promote diverse body and beauty ideals in the fashion industry; Franklin faced rejection for her efforts to include models of different shapes, sizes, and ethnicities in fashion shoots and promotions

25:41 The conversation shifts to the lack of diversity in senior creative roles in luxury corporations and examples of cultural insensitivity from fashion brands, including Dolce and Gabbana's campaign in China and Prada's monkey charms, with their financial impact

32:16 Caryn Franklin highlights the benefits of diversity in creative teams, including better business efficacy and cognitive responses, and attributes the continuation of issues to laziness, lack of understanding, and the desire for a reassuring environment among creative teams; Caryn advises women in the fashion industry to learn and adapt to the rules of the game while emphasising the importance of emotional intelligence in leadership; Her background in psychology provides insights into bias, racism, and sexism based on cognitive psychology, with a focus on the need for familiarity and the dislike of the unknown; Caryn emphasises the potential for fashion to create a more inclusive, pro-social environment and normalise different types of beauty and ideas

35:56 The host expresses gratitude for the insights on inclusion and fashion, highlighting the rarity of such discussions; David M. Watts concludes the show and announces the topic for the next episode.

Caryn Franklin is a renowned fashion commentator, journalist, and educator known for her influential work in the fashion industry. With a background in i-D magazine and Fashion Television, Caryn has been a prominent figure in shaping the discourse around fashion and culture. Her insightful commentary on style, diversity, and social issues has made her a respected voice in the industry. As a passionate advocate for inclusivity and sustainability in fashion, Caryn Franklin continues to inspire and educate audiences through her work.

Website: https://franklinonfashion.com/

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/franklinonfashion/

Book: https://open.spotify.com/show/6g0UaC78NsCodJnxYn2k91?si=15ad5a21cb6745ef

• Balmain
• Martine Rose
• LVMH
• Kering
• Richemont
• Fendi
• Todd Snyder
• S.S. Daley
• Gucci
• JW Anderson
• Olivier Rousteing
• Sabato De Sarno
• Safia Minney
• BBC World Service
• Dolce and Gabbana
• Prada

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Copyright 2025 David M Watts