Hey yâall!
Back in 2019, I made a video for For Harriet called Instagram is Bad for Black Women, and a few months later, Jia Tolentino published her essay The Age of Instagram Face in The New Yorker. Both of us were analyzing the same phenomenonâthe way social media warps beauty standards and pushes women and girls toward a homogeneous, algorithmically-approved aesthetic.
Fast forward to 2025, and while the exact face and body that dominated Instagram may have shifted, the underlying mechanics of digital beauty culture havenât changed.
In fact, we now have concrete proof that the platforms steer grown women and little girls toward a single ideal in order to optimize engagement.
The âInstagram Faceâ era of obvious fillers and exaggerated features has given way to the âUndetectable Era.â Everything old is new again! The new ideal still demands work, but insists on making it look effortless. Sound familiar?
The Algorithm Decides
âOnline metrics push us toward a generic sameness. Some things just perform well.â
Social media platforms are not value neutral. Perhaps there was at time when we couldâve believed that Instagram or TikTok would provide everyone a seat at the table of beauty, but that naivete shouldâve died long ago.
What started as a phenomenon among what Tolentino called âprofessionally beautiful womenâ (aka influencers and celebrities) has been the expected norm for about a decade.
Algorithms rewards conformity and pattern-matching. If you engage with these technologies, you opt into the endless loop where the rules change, but the expectation stays the same: keep up or get lost.
Beauty is Hustle Culture for Women
To my mind, the most important takeaway from revisiting this conversation is that beauty culture is hustle culture for women. This idea was concretized for me in Glamour Labour in the Age of Kim Kardashian by Elizabeth Wissinger.
Right after the election, Robin D.G. Kelley explained how Americans donât see themselves as exploited laborers but as entrepreneurs running their own mini-businesses. Women and girls have internalized the same logic and applied it to our faces and bodies.
In contemporary beauty culture, looking pretty isnât enough. We need to see the work. If youâre not enhancing, youâre losing, and the language of âempowermentâ obscures the coercion.
Itâs not âassimilation.â Itâs âself-improvement.â
Itâs not âcoercion.â Itâs âself-care.â
The âUndetectableâ Era Is Here
Instagram Face isnât dead, but now itâs for poor people. The new celebrity/rich lady beauty standard is all about invisible workâprocedures that âdonât look like procedures.â
Women have realized that:
* Filler doesnât dissolve the way they were told it would.
* Surgery, while more expensive, offers âcleanerâ long-term results.
This is why the rich girls are moving away from filler and into full-scale facial reconstruction. I was gonna list out all the women whoâve clearly gone that route, but that felt a little mean. Iâm just gonna say, iykyk.
Shout Out to Little Baby Kim
Looking back at photos from my 18th birthday, Iâm overcome with sadness because I felt confident in myself in a way that seems impossible for young girls today.
â¨Book Recommendationsâ¨
Iâm wearing merch! You can cop the Are Yâall Okay? Sweatshirt here.
Full disclosure: My face looks weird af in this video because I tried to adjust the color of my foundation in CapCut because itâs too dark. Feel free to drag me, but please do it for the right reason! Thanks!
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