Episode #78 - Lattice Training's Tom Randall Interviews Eric Hörst on Training Past, Present, and Future!

This episode is a 75-minute training-for-climbing tour de force by two of the world's top trainers, Tom Randall (Lattice UK) and Eric Hörst (TrainingforClimbing.com). The fascinating format has Tom interviewing Eric on a variety of foundational topics, including finger strength testing and training, methods of endurance training, the pros/cons of System Wall and Campus Training...and the future of training for climbing. This is a must-listen episode for anyone passionate about training for the next grade! RUNDOWN 0:40 - Intro to this epic conversation between Tom and Eric. 1:35 - Eric reflects on seminal conversations with top climbers and coaches, past and present. 2:30 - Eric's first appearance on the Lattice Training Podcast in Spring 2022. 3:23 - Podcast Sponsor message on Supercharged Collagen. Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15 >> 5:45 - Interview begins... 8:00 - Endurance Training...past and present. 15:00 - The value of a Treadwall for testing and training. 18:20 - Finger strength training past and present. 22:25 - Importance of personalized training programming. 24:20 - Finger force testing and performance databases. 30:00 - The many paths to harder climbing (besides finger training). 32:30 - Performance profiling and testing. 36:00 - Movement quality assessment. 37:40 - Udo Neumann movement videos. 40:00 - Longevity in climbing. Climbing hard into your 30s, 40s, and beyond! 41:40 - Discussion of key training tools for finger training and more. 43:20 - Importance of climbing outside more often! 44:10 - "Copy cat" training. 45:25 - Hangboard protocols...and "dead ends". 48:00 - Hang boarding to AVOID failure (local aerobic system training). 49:50 - Tom describes how many climbers underperform their strength testing results. 50:55 - The dilemma of weekend warriors -- more time spent training inside than climbing outside. 53:25 - Send Bros (Cameron & Jonathan Horst) need more climbing time, too! 55:00 - System Wall training pros/cons. 1:01:00 - Next level training with a System Wall and Treadwall. 1:04:10 - Eric comments on the advent of the Campus Board. RIP Wolfgang Gullich. 1:07:00 - Tom asks about the nutritional influence on training and climbing performance. 1:09:10 - Importance of getting nutrition right, especially among elite-level climbers. 1:10:25 - About launching PhysiVantage, the first complete line of nutritional products for climbers. 1:12:00 - European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing