Meath Archives - Ireland Family Vacations

Ireland’s Ancient East is filled with famous landmarks, but some of its most memorable experiences happen just beyond the well-trodden stops. Between the sweeping history of the Boyne Valley and the quieter corners of Westmeath, travelers can uncover everything from prehistoric passage tombs to castle kitchens frozen in time.

This article is based on podcast episode 342 featured Richard Ball, owner and host at Johnsfort farm stays in County Westmeath.
Use the player below to listen or scroll to continue reading the article and get resource links.

Richard Ball has spent his life on the Meath-Westmeath border, in the very heart of Ireland’s historic landscape. From his family farm near Kells, he welcomes visitors looking for a slower, more personal way to explore this region.

It’s an area where history layers itself naturally into the countryside. One minute you’re standing beside a Neolithic cairn older than the pyramids, and the next you’re pulling into a tiny village pub where everyone wants to know where you’re from and how you found the place.

For travelers based in Dublin, the region is surprisingly accessible. Kells sits about an hour northwest of Dublin city center, making it easy to include on a short itinerary or a longer road trip through Ireland’s Ancient East.

Pro Tip: most Boyne Valley sites are managed by the OPW. Consider an OPW Heritage Card if you plan to visit multiple historic sites during your Ireland vacation.

Many visitors try to squeeze the Boyne Valley into a single whirlwind day. It can be done, but it barely scratches the surface.

The familiar itinerary usually includes Newgrange, the Hill of Tara, and perhaps Trim Castle. Those sites absolutely deserve their reputation. Newgrange remains one of Ireland’s most extraordinary prehistoric monuments, while the Hill of Tara still carries the atmosphere of ancient power and mythology.

But the beauty of the Boyne Valley lies in everything between the headline attractions.

Near Newgrange, the Battle of the Boyne site tells the story of one of Europe’s most consequential battles before World War I. Nearby Monasterboice quietly impresses visitors with its remarkable high crosses, especially Muiredach’s Cross, considered one of the finest in Ireland.

Then there’s Slane, where the ruined monastery atop the Hill of Slane looks out across the countryside that helped shape early Christian Ireland. The village itself has become increasingly well known thanks to Slane Castle concerts and recent television productions filmed there.

Kells offers another layer of history. Best known for the famous Book of Kells, the town still retains monastic ruins and high crosses connected to its early medieval past. It also has one of the more unexpected sights in Ireland: a lighthouse sitting roughly 40 miles from the sea. The Spire of Lloyd was built simply because its owner liked the idea of having a lighthouse on his property.

Articles like this highlight a few great options — but they’re just a small part of what Ireland offers.

The Ireland Travel Compass brings together hundreds of places across the country and helps you understand how to combine them into a trip that feels balanced and easy to navigate.

For travelers who enjoy castles, Trim often becomes a favorite surprise.

Trim Castle dominates the center of town, its massive stone walls reflecting the power of Norman Ireland. Built between 1174 and 1205, it remains the largest Norman castle in the country.

The guided tour gives visitors access to areas that reveal how the castle once functioned defensively and politically. Film fans may also recognize it from Braveheart, though the castle’s own history easily overshadows its Hollywood connections.

Beyond the castle itself, Trim has a relaxed charm that encourages lingering. The River Boyne winds through town, cafés spill onto the streets, and the overall pace feels pleasantly unhurried.

Westmeath tends to get overlooked by travelers hurrying between Dublin and Galway. Often, Athlone and a quick stop at Sean’s Bar become the county’s entire experience.

That’s a shame because some of the region’s most rewarding places sit quietly off the main roads.

Loughcrew Cairns may be one of the most atmospheric prehistoric sites in Ireland.

The climb to the cairns is part of the experience. At the summit, visitors are rewarded with panoramic views stretching across the patchwork fields of Meath and Westmeath. It’s the sort of landscape many people picture before ever arriving in Ireland — rolling green hills, stone walls, winding roads, and scattered farms.

Cairn T, the best-known tomb at Loughcrew, dates back more than 4,500 years. Even travelers who have already visited Newgrange often find Loughcrew feels more personal and less crowded.

The surrounding countryside only adds to the appeal. Quiet roads weave through gentle hills that feel worlds away from busier tourist routes.

Not far from Athlone, Clonmacnoise offers a completely different atmosphere from some of Ireland’s larger historic sites.

Set beside the River Shannon, the ancient monastery feels remarkably serene. Round towers, ruined churches, weathered gravestones, and grazing swans create a setting that almost encourages visitors to slow down and stay awhile.

Late afternoon can be especially lovely, when the light softens over the river and the site grows quieter.

For travelers crossing Ireland between east and west, it’s an easy detour that rarely disappoints.

Richard and his wife Barbara have transformed part of their family farm into a boutique-style farm stay known as John’sfort.

Rather than simply offering accommodation, they’ve created an immersive experience that combines rural Ireland, local history, and personalized touring.

Guests stay in restored farm buildings that blend traditional character with modern comfort. Marianne Cottage and Bartholomew’s Loft both have 2 bedrooms and sleep up to 5 guests.

During the week, Richard guides visitors through the surrounding counties, tailoring experiences to their interests. Some days focus on iconic destinations like the Cliffs of Moher. Others might include genealogy visits, surfing, hidden historical sites, or simply wandering scenic back roads most tourists never discover.

Back at the farm, guests can walk among Highland cows, sheep, and hens before joining Barbara for traditional Irish brown bread baking.

It’s exactly the kind of experience many travelers hope to find in Ireland but often struggle to locate on their own.

For more information website: https://johnsfort.ie or visit the social media accounts on Facebook or Instagram.

Some of Richard’s favorite recommendations are the places travelers rarely stumble upon accidentally.

Fourknocks feels wonderfully untouched.

Visitors collect a key locally before entering the ancient passage tomb themselves. While smaller than Newgrange, it offers a far more intimate experience. Standing alone inside a 4,500-year-old chamber, studying carved stones without crowds or time limits, creates a very different connection to Ireland’s prehistoric past.

Fore Abbey sits tucked into a quiet valley in Westmeath, surrounded by ruins, stories, and an unmistakable sense of atmosphere.

The abbey itself dates to the early medieval period, though much of what visitors see today reflects centuries of change and dissolution after Henry VIII.

What makes the visit especially memorable is pairing it with the tiny Seven Wonders pub nearby. Travelers can borrow the key to the old mausoleum overlooking the valley, then return afterward for a pint and conversation with locals.

It’s the kind of experience that turns into a favorite memory long after a trip ends.

Tullynally Castle offers one of Ireland’s best glimpses into grand estate life.

The guided tour moves through elegant drawing rooms, libraries, and ballrooms before descending into the original kitchens and servant areas below stairs. Because the kitchens were simply closed off and preserved in the 1960s, much of the original working space remains intact.

The estate gardens add another layer to the visit, filled with trees collected from around the world over generations.

It’s easy to understand why visitors compare the experience to stepping into a period drama.

The Ireland Travel Compass brings together hundreds of places across the country and helps you turn ideas like these into a trip that fits your time and travel style.

For travelers willing to slow down and wander beyond Ireland’s biggest attractions, the Boyne Valley and Westmeath reward curiosity at every turn. The castles may be impressive, but it’s often the quiet roads, local conversations, and unexpected discoveries that leave the strongest impression.

The post Beyond Newgrange: Hidden Castles, Ancient Sites, and Quiet Roads in Ireland’s Boyne Valley appeared first on Ireland Family Vacations.

Discover the enchanting origins of Halloween at the Hill of Ward in Athboy, Ireland, where the festival of Samhain began over 3,000 years ago.

This article is based on Traveling in Ireland podcast episode 235. Join Tlachtga, the guardian goddess of this mystical place, as she shares her captivating story from the heart of Athboy in County Meath.
Listen using the player below or continue reading for information & links.

With roots in ancient Celtic traditions, Halloween, or Samhain, marked the end of the Celtic year on October 31st. The night was believed to be when the veil between worlds was thinnest, allowing spirits to roam freely. To protect themselves, people would dress in disguises, a practice that evolved into today’s Halloween costumes.

Tlachtga’s hill, known as the Hill of Ward, was the epicenter of these celebrations, where bonfires were lit to honor nature and connect with the spiritual realm. This sacred site, along with the Hill of Tara, Hill of Uisneach, and Tailteann, formed the cornerstone of ancient Celtic culture. These hills were places of worship, trade, and even sporting events, predating the Olympics.

Tlachtga’s hill was a religious center for Pagan Ireland, akin to a church or place of worship.

The site was associated with Christian All Souls’ Day or All Hallows’ Eve, coinciding with the Celtic end-of-year festivities.

The tradition of dressing up and leaving out food and drink for spirits is the origin of modern trick-or-treating.

The Hill of Ward is one of the four most important Celtic sites in Ireland, alongside the Hill of Tara, the Hill of Uisneach, and Tailtenn.

The site witnessed significant historical events, including Viking battles and gatherings of Irish chieftains.

The town of Athboy, meaning town of the yellow ford, has a rich history, including a royal charter in 1497 and involvement in Ireland’s fight for independence.

The phrase knock on wood originates from ancient beliefs that trees were alive, and knocking on them would awaken spirits to bring good fortune.

The area is considered a fairy fort, believed to be an entrance to the underworld, home to banshees and fairies.

The tradition of disguising oneself during Samhain was to avoid being taken by spirits.

The rich history of Athboy is brought to life by Fiona Dalton through the Tlachtga Abhaile tour, offering a unique glimpse into Ireland’s past. Fiona, a talented performer, feels a deep connection to Tlachtga, making each tour a personal and spiritual journey. Visitors can explore the fairy forts, hear tales of ancient battles, and learn about the traditions that shaped Halloween.

Learn more about Tlachtga Abhaile on Facebook and Instagram.

Fiona is also a tour guide in Dublin. Learn more about her Musical History Tour of Dublin here.

The post Halloween’s Historic Origins in Ireland appeared first on Ireland Family Vacations.

If Newgrange and Kilmainham Gaol are on your Ireland itinerary, you’ll need more than interest to visit – you’ll need a timed ticket.

These two OPW-managed sites are incredibly popular, and both strongly recommend advance booking. The good news? Even if you don’t have your OPW Heritage Card yet, you can still reserve your spot.

Not sure what an OPW Heritage Card is or why you should have it?
Learn why the OPW Heritage Card is the Best Deal in Irish History

Here’s what to know:

Whether you’re using your OPW Heritage Card or paying per site, the process is nearly identical. Just visit HeritageIreland.ie, find your site, click “Book Online,” and follow the prompts.
Choose “Heritage Card holder” if you plan to have one, and you’ll bypass payment.

Traveling in Ireland podcast episode 273

The post Booking Newgrange and Kilmainham Gaol with (or without) an OPW Card appeared first on Ireland Family Vacations.

Wondering about the best places to visit in Ireland in 2024?

And, if you are planning on visiting one of these tops spots, you’ve probably wondered if there are any secrets to having an amazing visit – and maybe avoiding the crowds (as much as possible).

The answers to your questions are below – based on my own experiences from over 20 years of traveling through Ireland.

This article is also available as a podcast. To listen please scroll to the player at the bottom of the page.

These are the top spots to visit in Ireland, as voted on in the Reader Travel Awards at the Irish Independent.

If you’re looking for more tips for visiting Ireland’s tops spots – as well as some amazing alternate attractions to consider- subscribe to the Traveling in Ireland Newsletter and receive Spectacular Alternates to Ireland’s ‘Must See’ Sights as a bonus!

See all the winners of the 2024 Irish Independent Reader Travel Awards

These top sites are popular for a reason. They deliver a terrific visitor experience that creates lasting memories.

But popularity has a downside. At some sites it is lack of tickets, at others it is overwhelming crowds.

Here’s how to have the best experience at the most popular spots in Ireland.

Guinness Storehouse

Always prebook your tickets. The wait here can be hours long – and you aren’t guaranteed entry. GetYourGuide – Viator – Guinness Storehouse

I personally prefer the final tour of the evening, but if you want to experience fewer people that may linger from earlier tours, choose the first two tours of the day.

Guinness Storehouse is easily reached via one of the Hop-on Hop-off buses and pairs well with a tour of Kilmainham Gaol.

Cliffs of Moher

If you’ve been listening to me for any amount of time you know that I advocate for people to visit the Cliffs before 10am or after 4pm to avoid the majority of tour buses.

You can also prebook your tickets on the Cliffs of Moher website to save money on earlier or later visits. These tickets give you full access to the visitor centre and experiences there.

Another option, if you are fit for an uphill hike and don’t want to explore the visitor’s centre, is to park at Guerin’s Path, just south of the cliffs (look for signs). This per-car parking spot is at the highest point of the Cliffs. You can walk down a bit of the cliff walk to the main Cliffs of Moher visitor’s area – just know that the hike back up can be challenging if you have mobility issues.

If you love a great hike be sure to book into a cliffs hike with Ollie’s Tours.

I do not – ever – recommend a day tour to the Cliffs of Moher from Dublin. This is an exceptionally long day with nearly 7.5 hours of driving (10 hours total trip on average) for a very short view of the cliffs and other locations. It’s just not worth it.

Waterford Greenway

I think the best way to explore the Waterford Greenway is on bike. We rented electric bikes from Waterford Greenway Bike Hire in Waterford and cycled to Dungarvin where the rental company picked us up and shuttled us back to Waterford. If you wanted a bit of a touring on your return to Waterford contact Bob McAuliffe at About Ireland Taxi Tours – he’ll arrange a great one-way tour for you.

If you have a car and want to drive the route near the greenway you can stop at trailheads along the greenway and explore on foot. A few highlights along the greenway to check out are Mount Congreve Gardens, the Durrow Viaduct, and the Copper Coast.

Dublin Zoo

Located in Dublin’s sprawling Phoenix Park, this is a terrific place to visit with young kids. If you can visit in mid to late afternoon to align with animal feeding that is a great way to see the animals be active. We just followed the feeder from cage to cage.

Phoenix Park can be accessed via Dublin bus, Hop-on Hop-off bus, and the Luas drops off nearby.
Learn more about How to get Around in Dublin

Spend some time in the park, as well. It’s a great place to wander on a nice day and you may even see the herd of deer.

Emerald Park

Emerald Park (formerly Tayto Park) is Ireland’s only amusement park.

If you are an amusement park fan, the park has an area for young kids as well as larger rides.

Additionally you’ll find a zoo, petting farm, fun Lemur Woods and zoo talks, a couple playgrounds and splash park, a fairy forest and a steam train.

Emerald Park is approximately 45 minutes from Dublin.

Killarney National Park

Covering over 25,000 acres of mountains, woods, moors, lakes and rivers in County Kerry, Killarney National Park is a wonderful natural playground. It also includes a stunning manor house, terrific abbey ruin, and fabulous Ross Castle.

A great way to get an overview of Killarney National Park is with a jaunting cart tour. You can queue for a jaunting cart in Killarney near the park entrance. The jarvey will entrance you with stories as you ride through the park to Ross Castle.

The national park is easy to cycle and you’ll also find boat tours and walking tours.

While the pathways near Muckross House and at the entrance from Killarney town can be busy, there are plenty of remote spots where you can feel like the only person around.

Titanic Belfast

This is the most popular tourist attraction in Belfast so you want to be sure to prebook your timed tickets.

If you don’t want to take the guided tour in the building you can still explore the exterior areas, including the dry dock areas of the Titanic and Olympic.

I really like to do an early tour here and follow with a Black Taxi tour of the Peace Walls and murals – the taxi can pick you up at Titanic Belfast and drop you wherever you wish.

Giant’s Causeway

My favorite way to visit the Giant’s Causeway is to arrive before the visitor’s centre opens or after it closes to avoid the heaviest crowds. You can’t park at the visitor’s centre, but there are a few parking spots nearby that only cost a few pounds.

It’s a steep walk down to the causeway – and back up – but if you visit during visitor’s centre open hours there is a bus that is £1 or €1 per ride (up or down).

For those who enjoy a good hike you can follow the path from the famed stones along the coast for a bit, before needing to ascend steps up the side of the cliff. The views here are terrific. If you don’t want to climb those steps you can also access this path near the upper bus parking.

Kilmainham Gaol

Is it a bit morbid to visit a place where so many people were treated brutally, starved, and executed?

Probably. But these stories, and the ties to the 2016 Easter Rising, draw thousands of visitors to Dublin’s notorious jail each year.

While you *might* get lucky and find same-day tickets, your best option is to prebook your tickets 28 days in advance as close to midnight Irish time as possible for best availability.

Kilmainham Gaol is an OPW Heritage site, so if you plan to purchase a card when you arrive (can be purchased on site or at Dublin Castle in the city centre) be sure to scroll down the booking page and choose One Year OPW Heritage Card to place a zero cost booking.

Pair this with a visit to Guinness Storehouse (if it’s on your itinerary), visiting the jail first. Give yourself at least 30 minutes after your tour to visit the museum and exhibitions.

Spike Island, Cobh

Spike Island, off the coast of Cobh in County Cork, is known as ‘Ireland’s Alcatraz’ but before that it was home to a 7th century monestery and a Cromwellian prison.

Construction of the star-shaped fortress began in 1779 and the famine era prison, the largest in the world in the 1850s, was built in 1847. The island retained a prison through 1985. From 1938 through 1985 the island was the Irish Army and Navy base.

The ferry to reach Spike Island takes 12 minutes and you will be met by a guide for the first 45 minutes of your visit. After that you are welcome to explore using the map you were provided with your ticket. You can also self-guide for your entire island visit.

The thing to remember about this tour is that your return boat is 3.5 hours later, so you need to be sure you have plenty of time in your itinerary. I prefer the noon sailing. It offers plenty of time to arrive and depart Cobh.

If you are staying nearby – and you like a spooky experience – see if the After Dark tour is available.

Traveling in Ireland Podcast Episode 195

The post Ireland’s Top 10 Visitor Attractions in 2024 (and expert tips for visiting) appeared first on Ireland Family Vacations.

Round towers are an -almost- uniquely Irish structure. (Only 3 ancient round towers exist outside of Ireland.)

In Irish they are called cloitheach (cloy- cach), meaning bell house, and were probably built between the 9th and 12th centuries.

This article is also available as a podcast. To listen please scroll to the player at the bottom of the page.

At least 120 round towers are thought to have existed in Ireland. Today about 20 towers survive in complete condition.

The monastic settlement of Glendalough, located in the Wicklow Mountains, is a popular day trip from Dublin. The round tower stands tall in the ‘valley of the two lakes’, almost presiding over the cemetery, churches, and cathedral. There is quite a lot to see and do here, including some wonderful walks around the lake and along mountain paths.

Clonmacnoise was a major centre of learning and trade from the 8th to 12th centuries, located at one of the most important crossroads of ancient Ireland. You’ll find two round towers here, though one is missing a top. Clonmacnoise also has 3 high crosses; the Cross of Scriptures is 13 feet tall and absolutely magnificent.

The Rock of Cashel in County Tipperary was the traditional seat of the kings of Munster until 1101 when it was donated to the church by the reigning king. The round tower is the oldest structure on the site. The sight of the magnificent castle structure atop the stony outcropping and reigning over the surrounding farmland is one that will leave you in awe.

Many visitors make the pilgrimage to Kells in County Meath as that is where the Book of Kells was held until 1654, before it was presented to Trinity College in 1661 (where you can see it today). The round tower, though still standing, has lost its cap. Five high crosses, in various states, are also here.

Articles like this highlight a few great options — but they’re just a small part of what Ireland offers.

The Ireland Travel Compass brings together hundreds of places across the country and helps you understand how to combine them into a trip that feels balanced and easy to navigate.

If your itinerary doesn’t take you near any of those popular spots there are plenty more round towers to visit. These are some of my favorites.

Rattoo round tower in County Kerry was the first round tower I saw in Ireland. In 2002 I was following the route that would become the Wild Atlantic Way when I saw the cone in the distance. As I drove the road became more narrow, finally becoming a path. And there it stood. I had it all to myself… It was magical. The Rattoo round tower is the only complete round tower in Kerry and also has a sheela na gig.

Ardmore, County Waterford, is believed to be the oldest Christian settlement in Ireland, founded by St. Declan in the 5th century. Rising from a hill overlooking the town below, the round tower dates to the 12th century. The round tower marks the end of the cliff walk, which begins at the beach, following the coast past St. Declan’s Stone, up the (steep) hill past the Cliff House Hotel (amazing spot to stay), and then to the holy well and the ruined church, before continuing along the cliffs to the cathedral and church yard.

You’re likely to pass near Kilmacdough Monestery in County Galway if you are driving between Galway city and the Cliffs of Moher. The round tower is noted as the tallest standing round tower in Ireland.

Scattery Island, in the Shannon Estuary , is owned by the Office of Public Works (OPW) and is (obviously) only reachable by boat. Scattery Island Tours offers daily sailings during the season. The round tower on Scattery is unique as the door is at ground level. The island also has seven small churches, a holy well, a lighthouse, and an artillery battery.

The round tower at Turlough Abbey in County Mayo appears rather short and squat when compared to other towers. This abbey is one of few that survived the Dissolution of the Monasteries by Henry VIII and, later, Oliver Cromwell. If you visit the National Museum of Ireland Country Life in Castlebar the round tower can be seen from there and makes a nice addition to your visit.

A round tower, locally known as The Steeple, still remains from an ancient monastic settlement in the town of Antrim, Northern Ireland. Nearby is a ‘witches stone’, the story being that a witch, upset by the construction of the tower, climbed to the top and jumped off, landing on the stone and leaving the impression of her knee and elbow. Legend says that one hollow never runs dry.

The Ireland Travel Compass brings together hundreds of places across the country and helps you turn ideas like these into a trip that fits your time and travel style.

The round tower at Glasnevin Cemetery, built in 1855 to commemorate Irish political leader Daniel O’Connell can be climbed, but it is not quite as impressive as scaling an ancient round tower.

Just west of Dublin Kildare Cathedral, also known as St. Brigid’s Cathedral, was built on the site of an important Celtic Christian abbey said to have been founded by Saint Brigid. The round tower can be climbed – be sure to note the Romanesque decoration around the doorway -and do visit the cathedral which also has a sheela-na-gig.

St. Canice’s Cathedral, at the opposite end of Kilkenny’s Medieval Mile from Kilkenny Castle, has a climbable tower which was built in the 9th century. The Cathedral is Early Gothic in design and is the second longest cathedral in Ireland, St. Patrick’s in Dublin is longer. Purchase your tickets to climb the 100 foot tower inside the cathedral.

Devenish Island in County Fermanagh had two round towers, though one remains intact and can be scaled. This is the only high tower you can climb that still retains a conical cap. The base of the cap has a decorative cornice with a carved head above each of the 4 rectangular windows, Commercial boat tours of Lower Lough Erne can take you to the island, which also has multiple church ruins and an intricate high cross.

Traveling in Ireland Episode 193

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