Rouen woke me with bowls of coffee, croissants that actually tasted of butter, and the guilty hum of air-conditioning. I had switched it on overnight instead of opening the window. Foolish. Cooling now accounts for about 10% of global electricity, mostly still powered by fossil fuels. By 2050, the number of AC units is set to double to 5.6 billion, adding as much CO₂ as the entire United States. A shiver in Rouen, an invisible furnace everywhere else.
The rain had been heavy through the night, but step onto the autoroute and France still looked parched. Green hedgerows turning yellow, fields cracked, birches already dead. Industrial agriculture spread in endless stripes - maize by the mile, sunflowers like soldiers. Farmers were absent, tractors rare. The land worked, but the workers unseen.
Then weather took control. An inversion mist blanketed the road, lifting into three hours of hard rain. Rivers brimmed. The Dordogne looked close to bursting, with houses cowering on the floodplain. Climate breakdown in miniature - drought followed by deluge, soil baked then swept away.
Everywhere, the infrastructure of power - pylons striding across valleys, wind turbines on distant ridges. Some spun, many didn’t. Service stations told the same story - petrol pumps by the dozen, a lonely pair of EV chargers somewhere round the back, often in use or out of order. For all the talk of transition, diesel still wears the crown.
It was Sunday, and France was taking a rest. HGVs are banned unless hauling perishables, so the motorways were almost truck-free. Tomorrow will be different. Freight accounts for about 7% of global CO₂ emissions, nearly half from road haulage. Today, it was tourist coaches and cars - most carrying only a driver or one passenger. In Britain, the average occupancy is 1.55. So much road, so much fuel, for so little human cargo.
The French autoroutes did impress me in one respect: they were tidy. Verges clipped, litter scarce, no flags draped over bridges. In England, I’d passed Union Jacks by the dozen. Here - viaducts arching high, hay bales stacked in fields, some covered, some not, all getting soaked. Beside the motorway, small plastic-lined reservoirs sat at 20% capacity. Drought’s silent ledger.
In one patch of woodland, mistletoe hung heavy, choking trees by the acre. We think of it as festive decoration, but here it was parasitic, another imbalance made visible.
By lunchtime the autoroutes filled. French families in droves, service stations packed. The sun broke through at last, and I chewed on medjool dates bought in London. Delicious, yes, but absurd - fruit flown in from Tunisia, racking up emissions for a moment’s sweetness. Food miles on the tongue.
Further south came vines, row upon row, first for cognac, later for Bordeaux wine. Monoculture in neat trellises, destined for bottles shipped worldwide. Cultural heritage, yes. Carbon freight, also yes.
Bordeaux itself glittered. The Place de la Bourse as grand as ever, the Miroir d’Eau laying a thin sheet of water for tourists to splash in. A marvel of reflection - though in a season of drought, one wonders about the wisdom of great ornamental puddles. The Garonne rushed swollen and brown, sediment thick in its flood.
I didn’t make the Cité du Vin, though those who had, spoke of it in glowing tones. Instead, I walked the riverside and thought again of rebellion. Joan of Arc yesterday, vines and viaducts today. Always, the need for someone - anyone - to challenge the status quo.
Day Three is done. Tomorrow the road leads into Spain, where the lorries return, the sunflowers blacken, and the Meseta begins.