One Step Beyond

Following on from Episode 15.5, and the short story "You Don't Believe In God?" I return to our round the world backpacking trip from 2016 and pick up where that last short story left off... In Morocco, disembarking an all-night bus in Merzouga, on the edge of the Sahara.

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Incidental music for the short story "Saharan Sundown":

"Amazigh" "Sidi Rabi" and "Live Improv" by Brahim Frigbane

"Marhaba" by Lahcen Akil

"Ismar Kkis" and "Tighoufiwin" by Imdukal'N' El Hussain Safir

All used under a Creative Commons License via the Free Music Archive

Noel Fletcher's YouTube Vlog "Sahara Desert" from January 2016

Noel Fletcher's Extended Placebo EP with artwork from Dar Tafouyte and the Sahara Desert of Erg Chebbi

The Dar Tafouyte guesthouse in Takoujte, Merzouga.

Also mentioned in this Episode:

Greetings from Somewhere podcast

Aleksander Doba obituary

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Three years ago, Julie McGuire, a High School English teacher in the South Bronx, came home from work eager to set off on another weekend in the Catskills, only to find her wife waiting to declare the end of their marriage. The sudden announcement threw Julie into a deep depression fueled by days full of self-loathing and nights full of NyQuil; she admits that she lost the will to live.

Julie slowly regained her mojo by throwing herself into her love of backcountry skiing - hiking uphill, away from the resorts of the Catskill Mountains, and skiing her own routes back down. To better plan her winter Catskills descents off the beaten paths, she took to hiking the mountains out of ski season, and after completing the region's 35 peaks above 3500ft, plus the four mandated additional hikes in winter, she recently became – by pure coincidence – the 3500th member of the Catskill 3500 Club. She now routinely wears a ‘Queen of the Catskills’ t-shirt and posts colorful pictorial essays about her almost daily adventures hiking and skiing the back country, usually accompanied by a Double IPA (or two).

In this interview, Julie and I talk openly about divorce, the outcome for 39% of American marriages, and the healing process that takes longer than expected. Julie walks me, an avid if amateur 'on-piste' skiier, through the attractions and technical aspects of backcountry skiing, explains why she endures the challenges of the mountains, and why she is hosting back country clinics limited to women and people of color. To try and match the giddy heights of Julie’s daily achievements, I recorded all my voice overs while hiking Blackhead Mountain in deep snow and ice as I close in on my own 3500 Club badge.

Find Julie McGuire on Instagram

and on Facebook

The full Zoom interview on YouTube.

Excerpts from Julie McGuire's essay on hiking the 3500s as a way out of divorce.

The Catskill 3500 Club web site

Ski Touring for Beginners in Ski magazine

How to start Backcountry Skiing: A primer video from Mappy Hour.

An introduction to splitboards.

Catskill Outpost, for your very own Queen of the Catskills t-shirt.

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In 2009, in the first month of his first tour of Afghanistan with the British Army, James Rose had his legs blown off when he stepped on an IED. He barely survived with his life. Yet in 2019, he became the first double, above-the-knee amputee to climb Mount Kilimanjaro unaided.

The decade in-between saw James struggle with PTSD, weight gain, alcohol and drug abuse… but also, the unending support of his now wife, who finally convinced him to try the sport of rowing. This inspired a turnaround in physical and mental health, which led in turn to winning medals for Team GB in the 2018 Sydney Invictus Games, in sitting volleyball and wheelchair basketball, and then that unprecedented ascent of the tallest free-standing mountain in the world – a climb James completed in the same number of days as it took me, your host, only a month beforehand.

In a frank and free-wheeling interview, James shares his life story, talks frankly of the problems he faced after losing his legs, and offers motivation for those encountering similar seemingly insurmountable hurdles. He also talks of his ultimate goal: becoming the first double, above-the-knee amputee to climb Mount Everest.

Also in this episode: more about Episode 20’s subject matter, Black Travel, and Episode 21’s focus on winter hiking.  

James Rose on Instagram

James in the media:

James featured on ITV news

James in the Daily Mirror

James in Republic World

On video:

James Rose ascending Kilimanjaro by Zara Tours

James Rose: A double amputee and his love of the mountains

James Rose: No excuses

Invictus Games

Help for Heroes, the charity James supported on his climb up Kili.

Been Around The Globe: Rooben Fils website

Traveling While Black by Rooben Fils

Authentic Travelers on Facebook

The Hike Intel app on Apple

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I live at the gateway to New York’s Catskill Mountains, which I consider my playground. And I’m not the only one. In what seem to be record numbers right now, people run these mountains, they ski these mountains, they bike some of these mountains, they camp out in these mountains, they forage in these mountains, at times they are allowed to hunt in these mountains, but more than anything, they hike these mountains. And on a Sunday in late January, taking on Halcott Mountain for the first time as part of my very long-term plan to merit myself a badge, I did likewise.

I didn’t achieve anything that nobody else has achieved, even that same day, I didn’t take anybody with me on the adventure for an interview, though I did meet a couple of nice Chris’s along the way. This is just a peaceful episode about a peaceful day out, a hopefully uplifting story to elevate your mood if you’re suffering from the northern hemisphere pandemic winter blues.

Links from this episode:

The route and elevation gain from my hike of Halcott Mountain, Jan 24 2021

Catskills Trails Conditions on Facebook

Catskill 3500 Club

When In Spain podcast: Seville and slow, sustainable travel

For questions or comments, or to subscribe to the newsletter, e-mail [email protected]

Join One Step Beyond on social media at:

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Ashley Scott is a teacher in Atlanta, GA, who grew up believing that travel was not for people like himself. In his mid-30s, having still never been outside the USA, he established an educational travel program at his school, and began taking female students of color to countries where they could immerse themselves in local culture while having a safe and non-prejudiced experience. Some 40 countries and 5-600 students later, Ashley now also has his own travel company, Abiri Tours, "a Georgia-based travel company striving to make international travel more accessible and affordable for people of color."

In the first half of this episode, Ashley talks about how and why he embarked on his travels, what his students gain from the experience, his favorite countries to take his female students of color, and why, in a country where barely 40% of the population own passports, black travel matters so much. In the second half, he is joined by three incredibly well-traveled former and current students - Nia, Deja, and Joi - who share their own anecdotes and opinions. They all agree that Guatemala should be top of anyone's destination list.

This show was edited the day of the US Presidential Inauguration and is dedicated to Amanda Gorman, the 22-year old black female poet whose 'The Hill We Climb' spoke to the struggles and aspirations of an imperfect country that has nonetheless been pulled back from the brink. She serves as an emblem of the USA's potentially bright future, as do the young women on this episode. They also serve as proof of why travel is so important in creating well-rounded individuals - especially when that travel is conducted with a social conscience and an educational purpose.

Links from this episode:

Ashley Scott's travel company Abiri Tours. AbiriTours.com

Ashley Scott's occasional podcast, Traveling Incognegro.

Abiri Tours on Instagram.

Info about the Henley Passport Index is here:

Only 42% of Americans own passports here

Info on San Pedro, Guatemala

For questions or comments, or to subscribe to the newsletter, e-mail [email protected]

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In this second of a two-parter about New Beginnings for the New Year, I talk to David Watts Barton, a writer, traveler, musician, Burner and all-round optimist who upped and left the USA for Berlin in the middle of the 2020 pandemic year. He talks about how and why he made the move, what makes Berlin so special, and about his ongoing writing projects: Music1967.com, and Japan From Anime to Zen.

You can find David and his writings at his web site, DavidWattsBarton.com

Tony's writings about Burning Man are at

http://www.ijamming.net/category/burning-man/

And the Crude Awakening can be seen at

http://www.ijamming.net/burning-man-welcome-home-part-2/

For questions or comments, or to subscribe to the newsletter, e-mail [email protected]

Join One Step Beyond on social media at:

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One Step Beyond launches 2021 with a two parter about two people who refused to let the pandemic of 2020 prevent them making planned life changes. In part 1, Adam Fletcher - yes, he is a relation - talks about his volunteer work with asylum seekers on the Greek island of Samos, and why it has inspired him to hang up his career as a touring musician, including lucrative work in a touring Abba tribute band, and go back to college to become a doctor.

In an interview conducted from the Island of Samos on New Year's Eve, Adam talks about the conditions faced by the refugees on the island, many of whom have been living in squalor for years now, the work of various charities and NGOs, and why he feels blessed and privileged to have the opportunity to spend time with them, and to embark on a fresh career.

Some of the articles mentioned in this Episode:

https://www.nytimes.com/2020/02/07/world/europe/greece-samos-migrants.html

https://www.rescue.org/video/finding-courage-continue-greeces-refugee-camps

https://www.rescue.org/country/greece#what-caused-the-crisis-in-greece

https://www.instagram.com/p/CJHGmJwjj38/

The short monthly Soundcloud podcast hosted by Medequaliteam.

Also:

https://observers.france24.com/en/20200918-blocked-camp-samos-refugees-demand-legal-justice

https://theconversation.com/samos-grim-winter-leads-to-protests-by-refugees-living-in-limbo-on-greek-island-110116

https://www.pressenza.com/2019/12/children-alone-amongst-6-000-refugees-on-samos/

https://www.newyorker.com/news/dispatch/on-a-greek-island-that-welcomed-migrants-residents-and-refugees-feel-abandoned

A list of NGOs and charities typically operating on the island of Samos, as supplied by Adam Fletcher:

Action for Education

Avocats Sans Frontières France (ASF France)

The Flying Seagulls Project

Glocal Roots

Help Refugees / Choose Love

Indigo Volunteers

Med’Equaliteam (this is the NGO Adam currently volunteers for)

Movement on the Ground

Precious Plastic Samos 

Project Armonia 

Project TEN 

Refugee4Refugees

Refugee Law Clinic Berlin

Samos Volunteers

Still I Rise

Verein FAIR

The One Step Beyond Supporter page (i.e. the tip jar):

https://supporter.acast.com/onestepbeyond

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In May 2016, halfway through my 3-person family's year-long backpacking trip around the world, we met the Norths - Phil, Amanda, Sophie and Nate - in Chiang Mai, Thailand. They had left their former Alaska hometown of Kenai behind for good in the fall of 2013. and would not resettle in the States until 2017.

On this episode of One Step Beyond, I catch up with the the Norths - in their new hometown of Bellingham, Washington - for the first time in four and a half years. Sophie is now 17, Nate 15, and along with their parents, they talk candidly about their experiences, what they learned about the world at large and about themselves as a family, why they believe in 'slow travel', how they kept costs down, and why they think everyone should have the opportunity to travel internationally. For any family thinking of embarking on a long-term travel project, this is an empowering and encouraging story.

Unlike other interesting people featured on this show, the Norths have nothing to promote. There is no social media to link to! However, if you would like to read more about the work that Phil North does in his environmental role with the Tulalip tribe residents in Washington State:

https://www.heraldnet.com/news/for-tribes-climate-change-fight-is-about-saving-culture/

The other podcasts referenced on this episode are:

All The Sh*t I've Learned Abroad, Episode 76: WorldTowning

The Runners World UK: When Joe Strummer Ran The London Marathon

Baggage Claim: Travel Stories No One Tells.

For questions or comments, or to subscribe to the newsletter, e-mail [email protected]

Join One Step Beyond on social media at:

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Long term international travel has proven nigh impossible in 2020, and will be well into 2021 as well. But what if you live on the road, what if you are already somewhere else on the planet when lockdown happens. Does it all stop? And if it does stop, where do you find yourself and can you survive there? And if it doesn’t stop, what does that mean, and how is it to travel in the age of covid? What are the challenges, the pitfalls, and hopefully the rewards?

I talk with Trevor Warman, the Nomadic Backpacker, who has has spent the bulk of the last 20 years on the road, living from country to country, bus journey to bus journey, hostel to hostel. This would be an interesting story in normal times, but it’s even more interesting in 2020, because Trevor has had to stay just one step ahead of potential national pandemics. From several months locked down in Kenya, to forced quarantine in North Macedonia, to a surprise resurfacing on yet another continent, it has made for a year both extremely static and very very mobile, and difficult from start to finish. Over the course of two interviews, Trevor shared with me the perils and pitfalls of being a nomad during a global pandemic. And so, while One Step Beyond is here to tell and share positive stories, it’s also good to have a reality check. The world is not all unicorns and rainbows.

You can find the Nomadic Backpacker's blog and other travel adventures at www.nomadicbacker.com

and on social media, at Twitter and YouTube as Nomadic Backpacker.

The New York Times story about Istanbul is at https://www.nytimes.com/2020/12/08/travel/istanbul-tourists-curfew.htm

Plus: I talk about my recent road marathon. Yes, a proper road race - in 2020! The debut Upstate Classic was organized by the Albany Running Exchange and you can hear CEO & Founder Josh Merlis talk about how they put on a major event in a pandemic on the Runpacers podcast, Episode 255.

For questions or comments, or to subscribe to the newsletter, e-mail [email protected]

Join One Step Beyond on social media at:

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And your host can be found here:

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Regular listeners may know that in what  I sometimes call the ‘default world’ – the one outside this podcast – I am a writer by trade, and my books have included one published memoir with another to come. And those same regular listeners have probably heard me talking, on a few episodes now, about the trip I took in 2016 with my then wife and our younger, then 11-year old son, whereby we went backpacking round the globe for ten and a half months. Not surprisingly, I wrote about those travels, gradually compiling a series of short stories from our experiences on the road, none of which seem to have dated especially fast and all of which hopefully reveal or present some universal truths and commonalities.

And so, rather than commit to a full episode of One Step Beyond this Thanksgiving, where it might well get lost in the dinner table shuffle, I decided to make this a half episode, and present one such short story. It’s Not True is set in Morocco early on in our journey, back in January of 2016, a whole Presidency ago.

If you enjoy this story, and especially if you’d care to hear more like it, please do let me know via e-mail [email protected], where you can also subscribe to the newsletter.

Or, find One Step Beyond on social media at:

Instagram is OneStepBeyondPodcast

Facebook is One Step Beyond with Tony Fletcher

Twitter is OneStepBeyondP1

And your host can be found here:

tonyfletcher.net

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.