The conversation opens with major releases from the Holy Trinity, led by Audemars Piguet’s new 38mm Royal Oak Chronographs, finally receiving a fully in-house integrated calibre, followed by a discussion of AP’s broader recent drops, including a divisive jumping-hour piece.
Vacheron Constantin continues the momentum of its 270th anniversary year with a striking Overseas Tourbillon in full titanium featuring a deep red dial. Chopard surprises with the ultra-light Mille Miglia Zagato Lab One concept, a radical, motorsport-inspired titanium tourbillon that challenges expectations of the brand entirely.
On the more accessible side, we dig into Christopher Ward’s Pan Am C65 GMT collaboration, unpacking the aviation heritage and how it’s influenced design details. Beyond new watches, we explore the news of increased Swiss export figures, easing US tariffs, and Richemont’s sale of Baume & Mercier, raising questions about consolidation and brand survival.
Plus your communication with us around limited editions and whether boxes and papers truly matter in the pre-owned market.
Click here to read along and see the photos in our show notes as you listen – http://www.scottishwatches.co.uk/2026/02/05/scottish-watches-podcast-750-audemars-piguet-drop-their-2026-collection-plus-new-vacheron-and-more/
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 38mmAudemars Piguet Jumping Hour.Audemars Piguet has just dropped the Neo Frame Jumping Hour. AP digs into its own archives and revives a complication it helped pioneer in the 1920s: the jumping hour. Here, the hours snap crisply in a dedicated aperture while the minutes advance in a second window, giving you a pure digital readout executed in full mechanical form. There’s no hand stack to hide behind; either the geometry, tolerances, and torque management are right, or the watch immediately gives itself away. Is AP a bit late for the Jump hour hype train, sure, but at least they have the heritage to claim their rightful spot with this complication.
The architecture is where this piece really separates itself. The pink gold and sapphire case isn’t just a design flex; it’s a structural statement. The sapphire “frame” and those aerodynamic lugs evoke 1930s Art Deco streamlining, with gadroons that add both rigidity and visual rhythm. The black sapphire dial, with its dual apertures. Under the hood sits calibre 7122, AP’s first self-winding jumping hour movement – with a 52‑hour power reserve, contemporary shock resistance, and proper Haute Horlogerie finishing you’ll never see on wrist but absolutely know is there. It’s a purpose-built engine for a niche collector’s complication. We are eagerly waiting to see it on wrists as it somewhat appears to wear larger because of the rectangular 47mm lug to lug width (34mm x 8.8mm), so less classical than what we saw from the Cartier Tank a Guighets from last year.Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Titanium
Vacheron Constantin Overseas “Everest”.Christopher Ward C63 Highlander.Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Milano Cortina 2026UR-FREAKHull, California Automatic Popeye Sailors And Sweethearts Limited Edition
Moser Endeavour Tourbillon SkeletonThe Calibre HMC 814 is a fully skeletonized automatic movement derived from Moser’s earlier HMC 804 but fundamentally re-engineered for transparency and load distribution. Skeletonization here is not ornamental. Bridges are shaped to preserve torsional stiffness while revealing the entire gear train, barrel, and winding system. The focal point is the one-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock, mounted without an upper bridge to reduce visual mass and emphasize rotational motion. Crucially, this tourbillon carries Moser’s hallmark double hairspring, developed by Precision Engineering AG (part of the MELB Group). Instead of relying on a Breguet overcoil or heavy regulation, Moser uses two identical flat hairsprings with mirrored coils mounted on the same axis. As they breathe in opposite directions, their errors cancel out, keeping the balance’s center of gravity stable throughout oscillation—an elegant, physics-driven solution to isochronism that avoids adding compensatory complexity. The movement beats at a deliberately classical 21,600 vph, prioritizing torque stability over high frequency, and delivers 72-hour power reserve from a single barrel. From a finishing and construction standpoint, the watch is very Moser: anthracite-treated bridges with polished bevels, sharp internal angles, overall a refined industrial quality.
The sporty nature of this caliber found a well-suited home in the Streamliner, yet also, now, in the Endeavour collection, Moser’s most classic range. The Endeavour Tourbillon Skeleton’s time display is kept minimal with gold-plated leaf hands and restrained applied markers floating above the movement, ensuring legibility without reintroducing a dial in disguise. All of this is housed in a 40 mm 18k red gold Endeavour case, whose gently curved lugs and thin bezel provide contrast to the mechanical intensity inside.Christopher Ward C60 Clipper GMTThere was a time when flying across the Atlantic relied on flying boats. On October 26th 1958, Pan Am made the first jet-powered commercial flight across the Atlantic from JFK to Paris Le Bourget (LBG) using a Boeing 707-320 named “Clipper America” after their pre-war flying boats. This flight kick-started the long-distance travel revolution, and today is marked by the release of the Christopher Ward C60 Clipper GMT. The Clipper GMT is a 42mm version of the familiar C60 with an eggshell dial and familiar Trident handset, except for the seconds hand, which has a blue counterweight that features a 707 silhouette. The GMT hand is also in Pan Am blue. The hands and indices are lumed with an off-white, sand lume. The aluminium bezel uses Pan Am blue and is marked with 3-digit airport codes rather than city names. The rehaut features a blue upper half and red lower half. The caseback features the Pan Am globe logo. The watch is powered by a Selitta 330-2 GMT. This is an office GMT which offers a 56-hour power reserve and allows the watch to be just 12.45mm tall.
The overall design, using a blue bezel, GMT hand, and bicoloured rehaut, evokes the excitement of that 1958 transatlantic flight perfectly. The Pan Logo on the caseback, Pan Am device on the dial, and 707 silhouette leave you in no doubt as to what this celebrates and what a momentous event this was. The watch is available on the Bader bracelet for £1,450/$1,995 and comes with a blue polishing cloth, a custom blue protective sleeve, and a complimentary woven strap made from the same material as Pan Am’s seatbelts. This is a limited edition of 707 pieces, and the serial number is engraved into the caseback.Pan Am 707.Pan Am Rolex GMT Master.CATCH ME IF YOU CAN (2002) – Frank’s (Leonardo DiCaprio)Piaget Polo 79 Two TonePiaget moves to combine the previous Polo 79 models as a new two-tone yellow and white gold execution, where you can clearly see the technical sophistication of its case and bracelet construction. Measuring 38 mm in diameter and just over 7.45 mm thick, the Polo 79 Two-Tone showcases Piaget’s long-standing expertise in working with precious metals, using a carefully engineered contrast between 18k polished yellow gold and 18k brushed white gold to articulate the watch’s distinctive geometry. A white gold case middle is delineated by the iconic horizontally grooved in yellow gold, precision-machined to maintain crisp transitions between finishes and metals. This same construction flows to the bracelet, where alternating brushed white gold links and polished yellow gold central elements are aligned with the case grooves to create visual continuity and ergonomic flow. The slim profile is made possible by Piaget’s in-house calibre 501P1 automatic movement, allowing the case to retain elegance despite its solid gold construction.Piaget Polo 79 Yellow GoldRolex Submariner Bluesy.Scottish Watches Podcast #701: Apiar And The Future of Watch Making TechnologyScottish Watches Podcast #667: Making A World Record Beating Watch with Ulysse NardinRikki is wearing his Apiar Gen 1.0Dave is wearing the Horage AUTARK TOURBILLON GMTChopard Zagato Lab One ConceptThe Chopard Zagato Lab One Concept Tourbillon is the latest chapter in one of high horology’s most compelling cross-disciplinary partnerships, bringing together Chopard’s watchmaking and Zagato’s automotive design to create a concept car for the wrist. This partnership started back in 2013 with fairly restrained Mille Miglia chronographs and has slowly escalated into what we see today. The Lab One takes genuine automotive engineering ideas, right down to a tubular chassis-style construction, articulated pivoting lugs that move up to 45 degrees, and a dial that’s effectively part of the movement itself. Built with input from Zagato’s Andrea Michele and Norihiko Harada, and limited to just 19 pieces at CHF 130,000.
Technically, it’s wild. The 42mm case, mainplate, and bridges are made from ceramicised titanium, treated via electroplasma to hit around 1000 Vickers hardness, so you get ceramic-level scratch resistance without the brittleness, while keeping the weight absurdly low, just 43.2 grams including the strap! The movement is Chopard’s in-house, hand-wound L.U.C 04.04-L calibre, COSC-certified, beating at 28,800vph with a 60-hour power reserve, and featuring a full 60-second tourbillon with an aluminium carriage to shave weight wherever possible. The whole thing is shock-mounted using elastomer silent-blocks and lever arms, very much like engine mounts in a race car, and even the power reserve is displayed as a fuel-gauge-style indicator at 12 o’clock. Throw in a box sapphire crystal, 50 metres of water resistance, and straps ranging from technical fabric with hook-and-loop fastening to leather with a ceramicised titanium buckle, and you’ve got something that isn’t trying to be elegant or traditional.Andrew Morgan Lets Rip On The Watch Industry & Lets Us Behind The ScenesScottish Watches Podcast #749: When Watch Collecting and Motor Racing Collide With Jeff DoddsScottish Watches Podcast #745: Sarah The Duchess of Watches Returns for 2026Scottish Watches Podcast #743: What Really Happened at The GPHG and Much MoreScottish Watches Podcast #741: We’re Back in Business for 2026! Featuring Ken Kessler
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