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  • The Zarf: Ottoman Coffee Cup Holders to Cardboard Sleeves and Scrabble

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    Coffee was likely first discovered in Ethiopia, but it became a ritual in Turkey around the 13th century, with a formality compared to tea ceremonies in China and Japan and a role in hospitality and diplomacy. It was served in small handleless cups called fincan, and to protect the drinker's fingers the cup sat inside a zarf, from the Arabic for container or envelope, plural zuruf, zarflar in Turkish. Because the zarf was what guests saw and held, the Ottoman elite turned it into a display of wealth in silver, gold, copper, and brass, worked with filigree, chasing, and niello and set with precious stones.

    By the 19th century, enamel workshops in Geneva, known for luxury watches, were producing ornate zarf sets for export to the Islamic world, decorated with musical instruments and military trophies. Artisans boiled horn and tortoiseshell to press them into molds, carved ivory with no margin for error, and made rare wooden zarfs from aromatic hardwoods that released scent when the hot coffee warmed them. In 1991 the corrugated cardboard cup sleeve was invented, and dictionaries still call it a zarf.

    • The zarf let a delicate porcelain, glass, or turned wood fincan stay mostly hidden while the holder did the showing off.
    • Corrugated sleeves insulate with pockets of trapped air, doing the job ivory and wood once did.
    • Zarf is worth 16 points in Scrabble before any bonus squares.
    • A 2009 Atlanta Journal Constitution obituary remembered Deborah Sappett, 69, for beating her family at Scrabble with zarf.
    • What was once reserved for empires, diplomats, and the rich is now handed out at any corner cafe.
    22 min
  • What a Barista Really Does: Italian Bartenders to Espresso Chemistry

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    In Italian, barista means bartender, and a traditional Italian barista runs the whole counter, serving espresso in the morning and cocktails, wine, and snacks in the evening. Italian plurals follow gender, baristi and bariste, while English and Spanish simply added an s and narrowed the job to espresso. That drink is demanding: water at about nine bars is forced through a dosed, distributed, and tamped puck in a window of roughly 25 to 30 seconds. Organic acids dissolve first, then sugars and lipids, then bitter tannins, so a shot pulled too fast tastes sour and one pulled too slow tastes astringent.

    Milk has its own chemistry. Steam unfolds whey and casein proteins, which wrap around tiny air bubbles to form a stable microfoam, and clean latte art is visible proof it worked. A skilled barista also reads the farm: a dense Ethiopian bean grown near 2,000 meters may need a finer grind and hotter water than a softer Brazilian bean from 800 meters. Competitive barista culture began in Norway and grew into the World Barista Championship, won in 2009 by Gwilym Davies.

    • Espresso comes from the Italian esprimere, to express.
    • Tamping unevenly lets water channel down one side of the puck and ruins the shot.
    • Too much air makes soapy bubbles, and overheating breaks the proteins so the milk tastes scorched.
    • WBC competitors have 15 minutes to serve four espressos, four milk drinks, and four signature drinks to four sensory and two technical judges.
    • The espresso and tonic spread from the competition stage to cafe menus across North America.
    20 min
  • Inside the Coffee Cherry: Kahwa, Civet Processing, and Roast Chemistry

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    Around 850 AD, the story goes, the Ethiopian goat herder Kaldi noticed his goats dancing after eating red cherries. The bean inside is a seed made mostly of endosperm, usually two to a cherry, and in 10 to 15% of cherries a single peaberry, whose premium likely reflects careful sorting more than any proven flavor edge. The word coffee came into English from the Italian caffè around 1600, from Turkish kahve and the Arabic qahwa, which once meant wine and is tied to a root meaning to have no appetite. Coffee grows only in the bean belt between the Tropics of Cancer and Capricorn, and Brazil supplies about 45% of world exports.

    The episode follows the seed from harvest to roaster: selective picking versus strip picking, the wet process that ferments sticky mucilage away in water, the dry process that sun dries whole cherries for two to three weeks, and kopi luwak, where a civet's gut enzymes shorten peptides in the bean. At around 230 degrees Celsius, roasting turns about 85% of trigonelline into vitamin B3, breaks 11S storage proteins into amino acids for the Maillard reaction, and destroys over 70% of chlorogenic acids.

    • Arabica grows best at 15 to 24 degrees Celsius with 0.8 to 1.4% caffeine; canephora prefers 24 to 30 degrees with 1.7 to 4.0%.
    • Coffee needs 500 to 3,000 millimeters of rain a year, heavy early to trigger flowers and lighter as fruit ripens.
    • A dried green bean weighs about 300 to 330 milligrams, roughly half of it structural carbohydrate.
    • The diterpenes cafestol and kahweol have protected liver tissue against oxidation in lab experiments.
    • Diketopiperazines formed in roasting taste bitter at just 20 milligrams per liter, and an espresso holds 20 to 30 milligrams.
    24 min
  • Indonesian Coffee: VOC Monopoly, Max Havelaar, and Wet-Hulled Sumatra

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    Coffee is not native to Indonesia. In 1696 the Dutch governor in Malabar sent Arabica seedlings, originally from Yemen, to Batavia, now Jakarta, where floods wiped them out. A second shipment in 1699 took hold, making Indonesia the first place outside Arabia and Ethiopia with wide cultivation, and exports sailed from Java in 1711. From 1830 to about 1870 the Dutch cultivation system forced villages to grow coffee, sugar, and indigo instead of rice, causing hunger in West Java, West Sumatra, and Sulawesi. In 1860 official Eduard Douwes Dekker, writing as Multatuli, exposed it in the novel Max Havelaar.

    In 1876 coffee leaf rust wiped out Java's Arabica Typica, and in 1900 the Dutch brought in canephora, which now makes up 75% of exports. The other 25% varies by island: earthy Sumatran Mandheling, Java beans aged in burlap for up to five years, clean Toraja coffee from Sulawesi, and organic Balinese coffee grown under the Subak Abian system. Indonesia is the world's fourth largest producer, with about two million smallholders, and a 2007 WWF report found illegal coffee farms inside Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park.

    • In the 1700s a kilogram of coffee cost nearly 1% of an average European's yearly income.
    • Giling basah, or wet hulling, removes parchment while beans hold up to 50% moisture, creating a heavy, earthy cup and bluish green beans.
    • Kopi luwak passes through the Asian palm civet and can sell for over $600 per kilogram.
    • Bali's Subak Abian follows Tri Hita Karana, harmony with God, people, and the environment, which favors organic methods.
    • The WWF report warned tigers, elephants, and rhinos in the park could vanish within a decade and linked the coffee to Nestle and Kraft supply chains.
    26 min
  • Ethiopian Coffee: The Starbucks Trademark Fight and a 70% Yield Warning

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    Legend credits a ninth century goat herder named Kaldi in Ethiopia's Kaffa region with discovering coffee after his goats ate red berries and began to dance. Ethiopia is the birthplace of Arabica and Africa's top producer, turning out about 496,200 tons in 2022 and supporting some 5.9 million farmers, with exports near $2.9 billion in the 2024 to 2025 marketing year. Coffee crossed to Yemen around the sixth century, yet Ethiopian Christians avoided it until the 19th century because they saw it as a Muslim drink. Today Ethiopians drink about half of what they grow, and nearly all picking and drying is still done by hand across forest, garden, and plantation coffee.

    From 1974 to 1991 a Marxist government forced farmers into collectives and set low prices. The Ethiopia Commodity Exchange, launched in 2008, pooled coffee by grade and region, erasing traceability until reforms began in 2017. In 2006 Oxfam accused Starbucks of helping the National Coffee Association block Ethiopia's US trademarks for Sidamo, Harar, and Yirgacheffe, and the two sides reached an agreement in June 2007. Climate change now threatens a rise of 1.1 to 3.1 degrees Celsius by 2060 and possible yield losses of 70%.

    • Ethiopian Arabica is graded as longberry, shortberry, or Mocha, the single seed peaberry.
    • High grown Sidamo beans, including Yirgacheffe, mature slowly in cool air and taste of lemon and citrus.
    • Harar is dry processed in the whole cherry, and its dried husks are brewed into a traditional tea.
    • Oxfam said the lost trademarks could cost farmers up to 47 million pounds a year, and over 92,000 letters were sent to Starbucks.
    • Farmers are moving plantings uphill and adding irrigation, shade trees, terracing, and mulch.
    25 min
  • A German Rum Coffee Lawsuit, the Flat Red, and the Wayne Gretzky Order

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    In 1981 a court in Flensburg, Germany ruled that a Pharisee coffee must contain at least two centiliters of rum hidden under its whipped cream, or the cafe was committing consumer fraud. Legend says the drink was invented to hide liquor from a teetotal pastor who, on discovering it, called his congregation Pharisees. This tour of world coffee starts with the physics of extraction: Melitta Bentz's 1908 paper filter, the French press, the 1830s vacuum brewer, the moka pot of the 1930s, and espresso machines that spread in the 1950s with Gaggia, forcing water through fine grounds at up to nine bars.

    Temperature changes everything. Cold brew skips harsh chlorogenic acids but tastes one note, and Japanese flash brew drips hot coffee straight onto ice. Turkish coffee, recognized by UNESCO, is boiled in a cezve, while Indonesia's kopi kothok boils grounds with sugar and Brazil's café tropeiro drops a glowing ember into the pot to settle the grounds. Then come the rule breakers, from Kyiv's 2016 flat red, made with steamed orange and pomegranate juice, to Tim Hortons' double double and the off menu Wayne Gretzky.

    • Cuban coffee whips the first drops with sugar into espuma, and scarcity once led people to stretch coffee with roasted chickpeas or split peas.
    • Senegal's café Touba roasts beans with selim pepper, Hanoi whips egg yolks into egg coffee, and Indonesia blends avocado coffee.
    • Rhode Island's official state drink is coffee milk.
    • Caribou Coffee holds a trademark on Depth Charge, its name for drip coffee with a shot of espresso.
    • A Wayne Gretzky is nine creams and nine sugars, roughly 54 grams of fat and 99 grams of sugar in a 14 ounce cup.
    24 min
  • The Cortado: Spain's Cut Espresso, Cuban Cortadito, and the Gibraltar

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    Cortado is the past participle of the Spanish verb cortar, to cut. In Spain the drink is espresso cut with a roughly equal amount of warm, steamed milk that is not frothy, meant to tame the coffee's acidity rather than put on a show. Order a café solo corto and you get a short black; order a café cortado and you are asking for that splash of flat milk. In Cuba, where fresh milk and refrigeration were often out of reach, the idea became the cortadito, made with heated sweetened condensed milk, and Cuban Americans carried it to the ventanitas of Miami's Little Havana in the 1960s.

    The cortado travels under many names: tallat in Catalonia, ebaki in the Basque Country, and pingado or garoto in Portugal, where harsher beans from the colonies needed only a drop of milk. It differs from a flat white not in ratio but in texture, since the flat white's microfoam traps air and changes how the drink feels. In early 2000s San Francisco, Blue Bottle and Ritual named a version after the Libby Gibraltar glass, a thick 4.5 ounce tumbler that sets the recipe.

    • The Cuban leche y leche adds a layer of cream on top of condensed milk and espresso.
    • A cortadito differs from a cafecito, where sugar is whipped into the first drops of espresso to make espumita.
    • Costa Coffee in the Czech Republic trademarked the name corto classic.
    • Australia's piccolo latte is a ristretto topped with microfoam, and Portugal's galão uses a 1 to 3 ratio in a tall glass.
    • A Gibraltar is 2 ounces of double espresso plus 2.5 ounces of steamed milk, and the heavy glass cools it quickly.
    13 min
  • Jonathan's Coffee House: Treason Plots and the Birth of the Stock Exchange

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    In the 1680s Jonathan Miles opened a coffee house in Exchange Alley in the City of London. For a penny, anyone could get a dish of coffee, newspapers, and conversation at shared benches, and by 1696 Jonathan's was implicated in a plot to assassinate King William III amid the paranoia that followed the Popish Plot. In 1698 the stock jobbers, traders who bought and sold on their own account and were despised by the silk and spice merchants, were expelled from the Royal Exchange for their noise. They moved to Jonathan's and nearby Garraway's, where broker John Castaing began posting prices as The Course of the Exchange and Other Things.

    Jonathan's became the center of the South Sea Bubble, when shares rose from around 100 pounds to over 1,000 before collapsing in 1720. Playwright Susanna Centlivre and Daniel Defoe both mocked the jobbers. In 1748 the building burned down. In 1761 a club of 150 brokers and jobbers formed to trade stocks with their own rules, and in 1773 they moved to a building in Sweetings Alley called New Jonathan's, soon renamed the Stock Exchange, the ancestor of the London Stock Exchange.

    • The South Sea Company took on government debt in exchange for a trade monopoly with South America.
    • Centlivre set a scene in Jonathan's where jobbers are drowned out by waiters calling out coffee and Bohea tea.
    • Defoe's 1719 pamphlet traced a jobber's loop from Jonathan's to Garraway's to the Sword Blade Bank and back.
    • The Sword Blade Bank was closely tied to the South Sea Company.
    • Before the 1748 fire, Jonathan's also operated as a lottery office.
    22 min
  • Coffea Genus Secrets: Not a Bean, 133 Species, and a Caffeine-Free Find

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    The coffee plant is a shrub or small tree about three to three and a half meters tall, and its red or purple fruit is botanically an epigynous berry or indehiscent drupe. The bean is really a seed, neither a true cherry nor a legume. The fruit takes about nine months to ripen, usually holds two flat sided seeds, and in 5 to 10% of cases holds a single round peaberry. An Arabica tree needs three to five years to bear fruit and can produce for 50 to 60 years, sometimes up to 100, which locks farmers into long term bets. Plants of the World Online lists 133 accepted species plus one natural hybrid, yet Arabica and canephora make up nearly all production.

    Arabica, from the Ethiopian highlands and Sudan's Boma Plateau, is itself a cross of canephora and Coffea eugenioides. The coffee genome, sequenced in 2014 with over 25,000 genes, showed that coffee evolved caffeine with different genes than tea or cacao. Caffeine poisons insects that eat the leaves, while small doses in nectar help honeybees remember the flower's scent. New species keep appearing, including seven from Madagascar named by Kew researchers in 2008 and 2009 and the naturally caffeine free Coffea charrieriana from Cameroon.

    • The earliest coffee species had little or no caffeine.
    • In 2011, 20 species from the genus Psilanthus were moved into Coffea after DNA evidence, extending its native range into tropical Asia and Australasia.
    • The coffee borer beetle and the coffee leaf miner are climbing the mountains along with rising heat.
    • A 2020 study showed SSR marker analysis can fingerprint coffee plants and trace green coffee to its genetic source.
    • Coffee leaf tea, cascara from the cherry, and soft drinks made with coffee fruit extract use more of the plant.
    22 min
  • Coffee Table Books: Montaigne's Complaint to Madonna's Sex and Blade Runner

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    In 1581 Michel de Montaigne complained in his essay Upon Some Verses of Virgil that readers treated his books as common moveables, laid out in parlor windows for show. In 1759 Laurence Sterne joked in Tristram Shandy that he hoped his own book would become exactly that. The modern format arrived after World War II, when Albert Skira and other European publishers produced large folio and quarto art books with color plates tipped in by hand. In 1960 David Brower of the Sierra Club launched the Exhibit Format Series with This Is the American Earth, featuring Ansel Adams, and insisted the pages be too large to take in at a single glance.

    The term coffee table book appeared in Arts Magazine in 1961, and The Coffee Table Book of Astrology followed in 1962. Madonna's 1992 book Sex, with its spiral bound metal cover, became the fastest selling of the kind. The same image heavy format served state messaging for Walter Ulbricht in East Germany and Enver Hoxha in Albania, and later became a world building tool for films like Blade Runner and for video game art books.

    • The Sierra Club published 20 titles in the Exhibit Format Series.
    • Sex remained the most searched for out of print coffee table book decades later.
    • Media scholar Henry Jenkins argues Blade Runner's world was too dense to absorb in one viewing, which made its art book valuable.
    • Early arcade games had no art books; the artwork lived on cabinets and cartridge boxes, and Capcom Illustrations appeared in 1995.
    • Some franchise art books credit individual designers in detail, while others present the work as studio property.
    22 min

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pplpod is a podcast about people, places and lots of other stuff. Each episode takes a deep dive into the lives, choices, and legacies of fascinating figures from history, culture,…