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  • Milan Cathedral: 600 Years of Feuds, Napoleon's Unpaid Bill, and Mummies

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    Milan Cathedral, the Duomo di Milano, was begun in 1386 under Gian Galeazzo Visconti, who needed a public win after the brutal rule of his predecessor Bernabò Visconti and whose family had moved its court to Pavia. The cathedral holds 40,000 people, has the highest completed Gothic vaults of any church, and is faced in Candoglia marble. When Visconti tried to make it his family mausoleum, the Fabbrica del Duomo refused, and he built the Certosa di Pavia instead. He pushed for French Rayonnant Gothic over local Lombard brick, and in 1399 the Parisian architect Jean Mignot declared the work in peril of ruin and done without science. He was wrong, but the insult drove Lombard engineers to improve their geometry and hoisting.

    After Visconti died in 1402 the project stalled for long stretches. Leonardo da Vinci submitted and then withdrew a wooden model in the 1488 dome competition, and Archbishop Carlo Borromeo and engineer Pellegrino Pellegrini purged noble tombs and pushed a Roman Renaissance facade that later architects fought to reverse. In 1805 Napoleon Bonaparte, set to be crowned King of Italy there, ordered the facade finished and promised French reimbursement that never came, so the Fabbrica borrowed and sold assets to finish in seven years. The final bronze door was inaugurated in January 1965, and the Fabbrica still quarries marble to replace stone dissolved by smog.

    • The gilded Madonnina went atop the 100 meter spire in 1762, and locals call a day fair only when they can see her through the fog
    • Marco d'Agrate's 1562 statue of Saint Bartholomew drapes his own flayed skin over his shoulder
    • The largest organ in Italy, with five manuals and 225 ranks, was commissioned under Benito Mussolini
    • A 1786 meridian line from the Brera Observatory triggered a relay that ended with a castle cannon marking solar noon for the city
    • A 2012 adopt a spire campaign offered donors of 100,000 euros a plaque on one of 135 spires
    30 min
  • Sears Tower: Nine Cigarettes, a Vanished Street, and the Willis Fight

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    In 1969 Sears, then employing about 350,000 people, needed a single headquarters for 7,000 Chicago staff. Rejecting a suburban campus, the company had the law firm Arnstein, Gluck, Weitzenfeld & Minow quietly assemble a site on the western edge of the Loop using 90 day option contracts, securing 15 buildings from a block with over 100 owners, then paid the city 2.7 million dollars to close a block of Quincy Street. Architect Bruce Graham and structural engineer Fazlur Rahman Khan of Skidmore, Owings & Merrill designed a bundle of nine 75 foot square tubes, supposedly inspired by staggered cigarettes, that dropped off at the 50th, 66th, and 90th floors to break up wind vortices and create smaller rentable upper floors. Construction from 1970 used 201 caissons, a concrete plant in the basement, and electric current run through the steel to fight winter cold.

    Suburbs including Skokie, Northbrook, and Deerfield sued to cap the tower at 67 stories over blocked TV signals, but a judge ruled there is no right to perfect reception, and Sears paid 5 million dollars to move station antennas to the roof. The tower topped out in May 1973 as the world's tallest building, but by late 1974 Sears was laying off 500 workers there, and in 1995 it moved to Hoffman Estates. On July 16, 2009, Willis Group Holdings, leasing about 140,000 square feet, got the naming rights free, and Chicagoans refused to go along.

    • The top can sway up to seven inches in high winds and return to center in just over seven seconds
    • Time magazine ranked the Willis renaming among the 10 worst corporate name changes, alongside anger over Marshall Field's becoming Macy's
    • Blackstone bought the tower in 2015 for 1.3 billion dollars and spent half a billion on upgrades including the Catalog retail complex
    • The 103rd floor Skydeck and its glass Ledge boxes draw 1.7 million visitors a year
    • Dan Goodwin climbed it in a homemade Spider-Man suit in 1981, and Alain Robert climbed it barehanded through fog in 1999
    25 min
  • The Axum Stele: Looted to Rome, Hit by Lightning, and Flown Home

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    The so-called Obelisk of Axum is not an obelisk but a fourth century stele: a 24 meter, 160 ton block of phonolite, the sounding stone, carved with false doors, imitation locks, and rows of false windows like a multi-story building. In the kingdom of Aksum, in what is now Ethiopia, such steles marked royal catacombs, until King Ezana, taught by his tutor Frumentius, made Christianity the state religion and the tradition stopped. Earthquakes and the Ethiopian-Adal War of the 1520s and 1530s left most of the royal steles broken, including the 33 meter, 500 ton Great Stele. In 1937 occupying Italian forces cut this stele into three pieces, trucked them over two months to Massawa, shipped them to Naples, and unveiled the monument in Rome's Porta Capena Square on October 28, 1937, the 15th anniversary of the March on Rome.

    A 1947 peace treaty required Italy to return it within 18 months. The Lion of Judah came back in 1967, but the stele stayed in Rome for decades amid rumors of hospitals and debt relief offered in exchange. Italian President Oscar Luigi Scalfaro committed to its return in April 1997. Engineers led by Giorgio Croci of Sapienza University found Ethiopian bridges too weak and the Eritrean port of Massawa off limits, so the Axum runway was extended and the pieces flew home in April 2005 on an Antonov An-124, with Italy paying 7.7 million dollars.

    • The steel bars inserted in the 1930s conducted a lightning strike on May 27, 2002 that cracked the stone from inside
    • The middle section was classified as the largest and heaviest piece of air freight ever carried
    • The pieces landed on April 19, 22, and 25, 2005, then sat in storage for three years
    • Reassembly used eight flexible, non-conductive aramid fiber bars to survive lightning and earthquakes
    • Laser scanning in 2006 mapped the stelae field so cranes would not crush undiscovered tombs before the September 4, 2008 unveiling
    24 min
  • Ise Shrine: Rebuilt From Scratch Every 20 Years for Two Millennia

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    Ise Shrine in Ise City, Mie Prefecture, is the holiest site in Shinto: a network of 125 shrines anchored by Naiku, the inner shrine, and Geku, the outer shrine, about six kilometers apart. According to the Nihon Shoki, the princess Yamato-hime no Mikoto wandered for 20 years seeking a home for the sun goddess Amaterasu before hearing her voice at Ise. Geku was founded after Emperor Yuryaku dreamed that Amaterasu could not get food and asked for Toyouke, goddess of agriculture. The main buildings, hidden behind four layers of tamagaki fences and home to the sacred mirror, use the Yuitsu Shinmei-zukuri style, copied from Kofun period rice granaries, built of Japanese cypress with no nails. The current supreme priestess is Sayako Kuroda, daughter of retired Emperor Akihito.

    Every 20 years the shrine is torn down and rebuilt on the neighboring plot in the Shikinen Sengu. The buildings finished in 2013 are the 62nd iteration, and the next rebuild is due in 2033. Preparation takes about 17 years, including sourcing roughly 10,000 hinoki logs and soaking them in ponds for years so they dry without cracking. The 2013 rebuild cost 57 billion yen, about 550 million US dollars, all from private donations, guided by tokowaka, the idea of eternity through constant renewal.

    • Naiku's chigi roof finials are cut flat horizontally, signaling a female deity
    • The shin no mihashira, a sacred pole on the empty kodenchi plot, is enclosed by the new building so it is never seen
    • Master carpenters called miya-daiku work only with hand tools and pass techniques from elders to apprentices
    • In 1830 about five million people, roughly one in ten Japanese, made the okage mairi pilgrimage, a loophole in Edo period travel limits
    • Locals drag logs in the Okihiki festival and place white stones around the sanctum in the Shiraishi-mochi ritual
    23 min
  • Prambanan: A Rerouted River, a Stone Princess, and a 200 Year Puzzle

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    Prambanan, the Hindu temple compound in central Java, Indonesia, was inaugurated in 856 CE under King Lokapala as the Sanjaya dynasty reasserted power over the Buddhist Sailendra dynasty, builders of Borobudur and Sewu. Its 47 meter Shiva temple marked a shift in court patronage back to Shaivite Hinduism. The Shivagrha inscription of 856 records that the builders, fearing lahars from Mount Merapi, rerouted the Opak River along a north to south axis by hand and backfilled the old bed to support the complex. The layout of 240 temples follows Vastu Shastra, modeling Mount Meru and leading visitors inward through Bhurloka, Bhuvarloka, and Svarloka, with Ramayana and Bhagavata Purana reliefs read while walking clockwise.

    The site was maintained for only about 80 years before the Javanese court moved east in the 10th century, possibly after a Merapi eruption in 1006 or a power struggle. A 16th century earthquake snapped the towers, and villagers who had lost the history explained the ruins with the legend of Rara Jonggrang. A Dutch VOC employee rediscovered the site in 1733, the British surveyed it in 1811, and Dutch residents took sculptures as garden ornaments. Reconstruction since the 1930s has followed strict anastylosis rules, and in 2019 Indonesian Hindus held the Grand Abhisheka, the first such purification there in 1,163 years.

    • How Prince Bandung Bondowoso's demons built 999 temples in one night before the princess faked dawn with rice pounding and fires
    • Why the Durga statue in the north cell of the Shiva temple is said to be the cursed Rara Jonggrang
    • The anastylosis rule that a shrine can be rebuilt only if 75 percent of its original stone is found
    • Each of the 224 smaller perwara temples takes 8 to 12 months to rebuild, putting completion at least 200 years away
    • A stone casket found in a well beneath the Shiva temple held 12 gold leaves cut as a turtle, a serpent, a lotus altar, and an egg
    20 min
  • Qutb Minar: Scrambled Arabic, 27 Recycled Temples, and Smith's Folly

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    In 1199, on the ruins of Lal Kot, the citadel of Dilika, Qutbuddin Aybak began the Qutb Minar after the defeat of Prithviraj Chauhan, the last Hindu ruler of Delhi. Aybak was a deputy of the Ghurids, a nomadic clan from the mountains of western Afghanistan that unified, embraced Islam, and conquered Delhi by 1193. With Muslim communities fleeing the Mongols and moving east into India, the 72.5 meter minaret served as a beacon for new arrivals. The Quwwat ul-Islam Mosque at its base was built from the dismantled remains of 27 Jain and Hindu temples, a demolition Aybak recorded in an inscription on the eastern entrance, while a fourth century iron pillar dedicated to Vishnu was left standing in the courtyard. Local Hindu craftsmen who could not read Arabic carved the calligraphy as pattern, leaving many inscriptions scrambled.

    Aybak finished only the first story. His son-in-law Shamsuddin Iltutmish added three more around 1220 with muqarnas balconies. After lightning struck in 1369, Firuz Shah Tughluq rebuilt the top as two stories of white marble, and later earthquakes brought repairs by Sikander Lodi in 1505 and by Major Robert Smith of the British Indian Army after 1803. Smith added a pillared cupola in 1828 that Viscount Hardinge had removed in 1848; it still sits on the lawn as Smith's Folly. A stampede on December 4, 1981 sealed the interior for good, and the tower remains contested ground in modern religious politics.

    • Historical surveys disagree on whether the staircase has 399 or 379 steps
    • Dev Anand built a life-size replica of the interior for a song in the 1963 film Tere Ghar Ke Samne because cameras would not fit inside
    • In the 1981 stampede, a lighting failure trapped 300 to 400 visitors in darkness and killed 45 people, most of them schoolchildren
    • On November 14, 2000, Delhi police detained 80 activists who tried to hold a yajna to free Hindu icons in the recycled pillars
    • In May 2022 a former ASI regional director claimed Raja Vikramaditya built the tower as a sun observatory, and an excavation 15 meters south was ordered three days later
    22 min
  • Habitat 67: Moshe Safdie's Lego-Modeled Concrete Thesis in Montreal

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    Habitat 67 began as Moshe Safdie's master's thesis at McGill University's School of Architecture, a stack of interlocking cubes modeled with Lego that failed to win the Pilkington Prize. After a stint with Louis Kahn in Philadelphia, his former thesis advisor Sandy van Ginkel brought him back to plan Expo 67, the Montreal World's Fair themed Man and His World. Safdie pitched the thesis as a pavilion, and it was approved by cabinet minister Mitchell Sharp and Prime Minister Lester B. Pearson, with Edward Churchill making him lead architect. Safdie called it an amazing fairy tale. The result used 354 identical prefabricated modules, each almost 12 meters long and about 90 tons, held in cantilevered stacks by August Komendant's prestressed concrete and assembled by Anglin Norcross.

    The original 158 apartments, now 146 after owners combined units, each span one to eight cubes, came with molded fiberglass bathrooms, and use the roof below as a private garden terrace of 20 to 90 square meters. Safdie wanted 1,200 homes with schools and shops for about $45 million, but the government approved only the smaller version, which cost 22.4 million Canadian dollars, or roughly $140,000 per unit. Losing scale wrecked the economics of the on-site factory, and in 1985 tenants bought the building from the Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation as a private co-op on a peninsula that got direct bus service only in 2023. Christopher Alexander called its repetition banal and deadening, yet in 2023 Safdie's firm and Epic Games built the full 1,200 unit vision in Unreal Engine.

    • How steel cables tensioned inside each block let concrete handle cantilevered loads
    • The metabolism movement's idea of buildings as cells that can grow and adapt
    • Why a prefab factory spread over 158 apartments made the housing unaffordable
    • Leonard Cohen's In My Secret Life video, a 2017 Canada Post stamp, and Ghost in the Shell: Stand Alone Complex
    • Safdie's later career of more than 75 major buildings and master plans worldwide
    21 min
  • Mont-Saint-Michel: Quicksand, 46-Foot Tides, and a Fortress Never Taken

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    Mont-Saint-Michel began about 525 million years ago as Cambrian magma cooling into hard leucogranite, left as a 92 meter spike when softer rock eroded. Its bay off Normandy has tides of 14 meters, about 46 feet, that Victor Hugo said came in like a galloping horse, leaving quicksand at low water and earning the name Saint Michael in peril of the sea. Legend says that in 708 the Archangel Michael told Aubert, bishop of Avranches, to build a church there and burned a hole in his skull when he hesitated. In the 11th century William of Volpiano set the abbey's crossing on the summit and wrapped the peak in crypts to carry the load. After Guy of Thouars burned the village and abbey roofs, King Philip Augustus funded the Gothic complex called La Merveille.

    William Longsword annexed the mount to Normandy in 933, and the embroidered Bayeux cloth commemorating 1066 shows Harold rescuing Norman knights from its quicksand. Through the Hundred Years War the English never took it, and after a failed 1433 siege they abandoned their bombards in the mud in 1434. The revolution turned the abbey into a prison known as the Bastille of the Sea until a campaign championed by Victor Hugo closed it in 1863. On August 1, 1944, it was liberated by American private Freeman Brower and two British reporters. A causeway built in 1879 let the bay silt up, so a 200 million euro project begun in 2006 added a dam on the Couesnon and, in 2014, a light bridge on pillars. About 23 residents now host some three million visitors a year.

    • How quicksand forms when trapped water pushes sand grains apart and grips a trapped leg
    • English cannons left behind in 1434 still on display near the outer walls
    • Private Brower invited to sign the island's golden book of visiting nobility
    • A dam that stores the incoming tide and releases it to flush silt, and a 2015 supertide that covered the bridge
    • La Mère Poulard's omelets, salt meadow lamb, and dolphins that follow the currents into the bay
    25 min
  • Meteora: Monasteries Atop 550-Meter Rock Pillars and Their Rope Nets

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    Meteora, meaning lofty or elevated, is a group of Eastern Orthodox monasteries on sandstone and conglomerate pillars up to 550 meters high in Thessaly, Greece. The rock formed about 60 million years ago in the Paleogene as streams dumped sediment into a lake delta, then tectonic uplift cracked the plateau and erosion cut along the faults. Nearby Theopetra Cave holds 50,000 years of human habitation, including evidence of Neanderthals giving way to modern humans and of the shift to farming, with fossil diatoms tracking ancient climate. A stone wall blocking two-thirds of its entrance, built 23,000 years ago during the Ice Age, is the oldest known built structure in Greece. From the 9th century, hermit monks lived in rock fissures and gathered on Sundays at a chapel at the foot of the Doupiani rock.

    Turkish raids in the 14th century drove the monks to the summits. Athanasios the Meteorite founded the Great Meteoron on the Broad Rock between 1356 and 1372 with backing from Simeon Uroš, protected by a retractable ladder. At Varlaam, first climbed in 1350 and then abandoned for two centuries, the brothers Theophanes and Nektarios from Ioannina spent 22 years hoisting materials in 1517 and after, then built in about 20 days. There were 24 monasteries at the peak and six remain, four for men and two for women. Steps and bridges came in the 1920s, and in 1921 Queen Marie of Romania became the first woman admitted to the Great Meteoron. The pillars survived a magnitude 7 quake in 1954, though a 2005 rockfall closed roads.

    • The monks' answer about replacing the haul ropes: only when the Lord lets them break
    • A brick-roofed hospital at the Great Meteoron built to guard against fire high above the valley
    • St Nicholas Anapausas stacked vertically on a summit barely larger than a living room
    • St Stephen's, converted to a nunnery in 1961, with workshops for icons, incense, and embroidery
    • Appearances in For Your Eyes Only, the Eyrie of Game of Thrones, and Linkin Park's album Meteora
    23 min
  • Sassi di Matera: 9,000 Years in Caves, From National Shame to Film Set

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    The Sassi di Matera sit in the Basilicata region of southern Italy, on the Murgia plateau near Apulia, where the Gravina River carved a deep ravine the locals call La Gravina. The name sasso comes from the Latin saxum, a rock or great stone, and the two ancient districts, the Sasso Caveoso and the Sasso Barisano, are dug directly into the ravine wall. The stone, locally called tufo, is actually calcarenite, a marine limestone of compressed fossil and rock grains that is soft to carve but hardens once exposed to air. Residents removed stone to make rooms, and on the steep slope streets often run across the roofs of the houses below. People have lived here continuously since about 7000 BC.

    By the 1950s the caves held crushing poverty: large families shared single-opening rooms with mules, pigs, and chickens, without sewers, and malaria spread. Prime Minister Alcide De Gasperi called the Sassi an affront to the new Italian republic, and the government moved most residents into a new town nearby. Through the 1960s, 70s, and 80s the districts sat largely empty and crumbling. In the late 1980s local officials, the Italian government, and the European Union began regeneration, and in 1993 UNESCO listed the Sassi and the park of the Rupestrian churches as a World Heritage Site. The same untouched look that brought the evictions made Matera a stand-in for ancient Jerusalem and a blockbuster location.

    • Why subtractive architecture meant one exposed wall, one source of light, and poor ventilation
    • Pier Paolo Pasolini filming The Gospel According to Saint Matthew there in 1964
    • The Passion of the Christ in 2004, The Nativity Story in 2006, and Ben-Hur in 2016
    • Themyscira in Wonder Woman and a James Bond Aston Martin chase in No Time to Die
    • Corde Oblique's 2016 two-part song I Sassi di Matera, one part for each district
    19 min

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pplpod is a podcast about people, places and lots of other stuff. Each episode takes a deep dive into the lives, choices, and legacies of fascinating figures from history, culture,…