North Cascades has more glaciers than any other national park in the lower 48... and almost nobody goes.
This episode is about the strangest, most tangled national park in the country, and the question underneath all of it: when people have already rearranged a wild place, what do we owe it now?
We stand in Newhalem and feel Seattle's electricity humming in our teeth and visit three dams on the Skagit River that have been running since 1917 and still supply about 20% of the city's power. We explain the 1968 compromise that made this place a national park and a recreation area at the same time, which is why the road you drive in on isn't technically in the park at all. We tell the extremely weird story of J.D. Ross, the dam-builder who lit a waterfall in colored floodlights, hauled tropical plants indoors by hand every winter, and put actual monkeys on an island in the middle of a reservoir. We look down at Diablo Lake and explain glacial flour: why the water is that impossible chalk-blue, and what happens to the color when the glaciers finish shrinking. We find out why nobody built a fish ladder here (Ross Dam is 540 feet tall, taller than the observation deck on the Space Needle) and what they do instead: they drive the salmon upriver in a truck. Every year. Forever.
Then Dad cuts the boat motor on Ross Lake to explain plate tectonics: why these mountains aren't volcanoes like most of the ones we've visited, but a pile-up of ocean floor and drowned islands that rode in from far out in the Pacific and slammed into North America. That's why you can find seashell fossils on top of the peaks.
At Washington Pass we get into the mountain goats: why they lick the salt off your backpack straps, why human pee wrecks alpine plants that take decades to grow back, and how about 325 goats got blindfolded, slung under helicopters, and flown here from Olympic National Park. And we talk about the grizzlies, who were approved to come home in 2024, still not here, with no date, no money, and real disagreement between tribal nations on the same river about what it means to bring back an animal that eats already-struggling salmon.
The kids end up in an argument, and neither can we: if Diablo Lake shouldn't be there, but it's the most beautiful thing we saw all day...do you drain it?
Best listened to: on Highway 20 between Marblemount and Winthrop, or anywhere you've got a kid in the back seat who wants to prep for the ranger station.