The RunOut Podcast

RunOut #89: Ethics, Rules, Crowds, Permits

10.01.2022 - By Andrew Bisharat & Chris KalousPlay

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The Yosemite National Park is attempting to make its Covid-era rule in which climbers are required to have a permit to spend the night on a big wall permanent—and predictably, climbers aren’t happy about it. We spoke to two of the most active big wall climbers in Yosemite in recent years about the current state of affairs in the Valley: Gena Wood is a former climbing ranger and a veteran of more than 20 ascents of El Cap. And Lance Colley has also worked for the park service, and has completed 29 ascents of El Cap in the past three years.

But first, the hosts catch up after two very different climbing experiences, and discuss the serial chipper on the loose in Utah and determine just who, or what, is to blame.

Finally, “Jefe” (Jeff Jackson) returns to the final bit with some Hawaiian-inflected jams.

Show Notes

Submit your comment on big-wall permits by November!

Follow Lance Colley on Instagram

Follow Gena Wood on Instagram

Watch the Park Service’s virtual town hall explaining their rationale for the permit

James Hornibrook’s Change petition against the permits

Read up on Booz Allen Hamilton in the NYT and again in the NYT.

Evening Sends article on chipping.

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