The RunOut Podcast

RunOut #83: Justification for a Trad Attitude

06.28.2022 - By Andrew Bisharat & Chris KalousPlay

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Hard, scary trad climbing is all fun and games until someone breaks their back. That’s what happened to Molly Mitchell on Crank It, a 5.13+ sport climb in Boulder Canyon that Molly was attempting to headpoint on gear. Nevertheless, Molly sought redemption and returned to the climb years later and ultimately sent it on gear. But what she discovered about her self, and her health, ended up being the real prize of this inspiring journey.

But first, the hosts take a closer look at how one of the biggest and hardest routes on Denali got not one but two insane speed records set within a matter of weeks. That would be the Slovak Direct, with Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau setting the pace at 21 hours, 35 minutes. Then two weeks later, Michael Gardner, Sam Hennessey and Rob Smith came in at 17 hours, 10 minutes.

Our final bit is music from an old classic.

Show Notes

Follow Molly Mitchell on Instagram.

Read Climbing magazine’s report on Molly’s ascent.

The Alpinist reports on the Slovak Direct.

Justification for an Elitist Attitude, by Mark Twight.

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