We begin our walking tour and podcast in Belgrade’s  Kalemegdan, the ancient fortress peering out over the confluence of the  Sava and Danube Rivers. In her book, Black Lamb and Grey Falcon,  published in 1941, Dame Rebecca West provides us with a short history of  Kalemegdan —from the Romans to the Ottomans to the Serbs—and actor  Melanie Preston reads an excerpt for you.

As we walk down into Dorcol, Stefan Sablic—cantor of the Belgrade synagogue, Ladino singer and musician—will accompany us.