Some places are almost impossible to explain until you’ve stood in them. Juan Veruete calls the Sierra Nevada “million-word places”—landscapes where even the best photograph never quite captures the scale of what’s in front of you.
In this conversation, Juan joins the Sierra Rec Podcast to take us along on his backpacking journey from Onion Valley over Kearsarge Pass and into the Rae Lakes area of Kings Canyon National Park, sharing what actually happened when a carefully planned High Sierra backpacking trip met the reality of the mountains.
Juan lives on the East Coast, but the Sierra keeps pulling him back. For this trip, he chose Kearsarge Pass as his entry into the Rae Lakes region, climbing out of Onion Valley and connecting with the John Muir Trail before continuing deeper into the High Sierra.
The itinerary didn't go exactly as planned.
Weather changed the trip almost immediately. Acclimation became a bigger factor than expected. There were hard miles, adjustments to food and hydration, changing plans on the trail, and one of those days when even an experienced backpacker simply doesn't feel good.
One of Juan's biggest lessons came before he ever reached the trail: “Never choose luxury over preparation.” After spending his pre-trip night in Bishop rather than higher at Onion Valley, he came away with a new appreciation for acclimation, pacing, and the challenges backpackers arriving from sea level can face at Sierra elevations.
But this trip isn't a story about struggle.
Juan shares the moments that keep bringing him back across the country: climbing into golden light above Kearsarge Pass, moving through the backcountry toward Rae Lakes, fishing for trout in Paradise Valley, and experiencing the enormous scale of a landscape photographs never quite capture.
Charlie and Juan also get into the practical side of a multi-day Sierra backpack: pack weight, shelter and weather preparation, trail food, electrolytes, water, fishing gear, and some of the small systems Juan has developed through years on the trail.
More than anything, it's a conversation about why we keep going back to the mountains. For Juan, part of that is physical—the challenge of putting one foot in front of the other and discovering what you're capable of doing. But it's also about the space backpacking creates to think, slow down, and spend a few days living differently than we do at home.
If you're considering backpacking Rae Lakes, hiking Kearsarge Pass, entering Kings Canyon National Park from Onion Valley, connecting with the John Muir Trail, or planning your own High Sierra backpacking trip, Juan's experience offers something more useful than a perfect itinerary.
It offers a real one.
About Juan VerueteJuan is a backpacker, angler and writer who regularly travels west to explore the Sierra Nevada. His adventures combine backpacking, backcountry trout fishing and storytelling.
Continue exploring with Juan:
Juan Backpacks on YouTube:
https://youtube.com/@juanbackpacks
Juan's Rae Lakes Loop trip:
https://youtu.be/7yA8hXbNEGg
Rae Lakes gear loadout:
https://youtu.be/aD5AZlm8HPs
Gossamer Gear Whisper review:
https://youtu.be/g5B_jU6WAYw
Wild Trout Chronicles:
https://wildtroutchronicles.com/
Explore more from Sierra Rec Magazine:
SierraRecMagazine.com