This article is by Woo Ji-won and read by an artificial voice.
[AMBASSADOR'S TABLE - RESTAURANT REVIEW]
A restaurant near Apgujeong Station is almost guaranteed to be fancy, and usually expensive, but that doesn't always mean the food lives up to the premium location and sleek interior.
So when I spotted Spatula by Haevichi in southern Seoul's Gangnam District - a tall chic gray-brick building with an open glass kitchen - I was impressed but skeptical. Descending the staircase to the dimly lit basement dining room, I passed shiny black tables softly illuminated by individual lamps and chefs in crisp uniforms moving with intent in sizable open kitchens. It was elegant - so much so that for a moment I wondered if I had dressed appropriately.
A server greeted me as I sat down for the Argentinian course menu priced at 120,000 won ($86). I tried three of its main dishes.
The depth of the dish resulted from months of culinary research and refinement. "We study the country's food culture and history for months, brainstorm as a team then test and invent the recipes," said chef and director Park Min-woo.
Past cuisines have included Indian, Chinese, Caribbean, French and Japanese. Until June, the spotlight was on Argentinian cuisine.
My favorite dish of the night was asado de tira, Argentina's signature barbecue cut. The 1++ hanwoo short ribs were cut across the bone into thin strips and presented with mollejas (sweetbreads), morcilla (blood sausage) and chinchulines (grilled intestines).
After five hours of slow cooking, the ribs were incredibly tender and aromatic. Mollejas reminded me of sundae (Korean blood sausage) in appearance but had a bolder, more savory flavor. The chinchulines also lingered in my mind for quite some time that night. They were chewy, had a deep umami flavor and paired extremely well with the tangy and herb-infused chimichurri sauce made with parsley and olive oil. Two other sauces accompanied the dish, including salsa criolla, a South American salsa made with chopped onions and tomatoes.
While Argentinian dishes may be unfamiliar to Korean diners, the chef believes that the food has universal appeal. "People just aren't used to it yet," Park said. "But once they try it, they tend to really enjoy it." Spatula also hosted a special wine-pairing event on April 17 organized by the Argentine Embassy in Korea to mark Malbec World Day, which commemorates Argentina's signature red wine variety Malbec.
"There are pros and cons to changing the theme, but some guests absolutely enjoy the novelty," Park said.
The Thai Cuisine course is currently being served for 120,000 won and will be available through Oct. 1. The next featured country is Spain.
Spatula by Haevichi is located at 15-8, Eonju-ro 164-gil in Gangnam District, and operates from 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m., except on Sundays.