“She Surf” cover surfer Amy Kotch joins us to share how, at 30, she left So Cal suburbia behind in pursuit of hollow, warm surf and a simplified life focus. Kotch explains life on a remote atoll as a surf guide, the challenges and joys of raising a kid there, and the quickest way to …

Continue reading "333 – Amy Kotch"

The post 333 – Amy Kotch appeared first on Surf Splendor .

Board builder Malcolm Campbell discusses the Bonzer design, the role it’s played in surfing and the quirky dynamics that sometimes push and often impede board design evolution. The Bonzer is the first truly functional, high-performance three finned surfboard design, and the Campbell Brothers introduced it a full decade prior to the invention of the Thruster. …

Continue reading "332 – Malcolm Campbell"

The post 332 – Malcolm Campbell appeared first on Surf Splendor .

Wyatt Daily shares his discovery of previously unseen surf footage of Greenough, Yater, and dozens more who would spark a design revolution and indelibly change the trajectory of surfing, as documented in his latest film, “Spoons: A Santa Barbara Story”. Enjoy! Follow @Spoons_Film and learn more/view at SpoonsFilm.com View this post on Instagram Making of …

Continue reading "331 – Spoons filmmaker Wyatt Daily"

The post 331 – Spoons filmmaker Wyatt Daily appeared first on Surf Splendor .

Selema “Sal” Masekela and Ryan Harris join us for a discussion about how the surf industry needs to respond to Black Lives Matter and how it will foster a healthier, more robust industry, why they are both more optimistic about the future of America than ever, and they introduce 1Planet1People. Enjoy! Follow @1PlanetOnePeople and visit …

Continue reading "330 – 1Planet1People: Selema Masekela & Ryan Harris"

The post 330 – 1Planet1People: Selema Masekela & Ryan Harris appeared first on Surf Splendor .

Waves 4 Water is aiming to solve the world water crisis and has already provided sustained solutions for 3.75 million people. Jon Rose discusses his transition from a self-focused life of professional surfing into a life of effective altruism and the challenges of running an international organization. Enjoy! Follow @WavesForWater and @Jon_Rose And learn more …

Continue reading "329 – Jon Rose: Waves 4 Water"

The post 329 – Jon Rose: Waves 4 Water appeared first on Surf Splendor .

William Finnegan has been an important figure contributing to surfing for the past 30 years or so, mainly as a writer, but also as a discoverer and explorer. Author of the Pulitzer winning “Barbarian Days”, he and David discuss his journey and navigating how surfing fits into relationships, work, and life. (This episode was original …

Continue reading "328 – William Finnegan: Barbarian Days"

The post 328 – William Finnegan: Barbarian Days appeared first on Surf Splendor .

San Diego board builder and Skip Frye apprentice Josh Hall joins us to pay homage to Kauai, discuss his recent elk hunt in New Mexico, survey the surfboard biz in the time of COVID, and reevaluate how to love and care for our parents as they age. Enjoy! Follow @JoshHallSurfboards View this post on Instagram …

Continue reading "327 – Josh Hall: Round 2"

The post 327 – Josh Hall: Round 2 appeared first on Surf Splendor .

Billy Hamilton joins David to discuss the difficulties of raising Laird, discovering Nazare, the benefits of psychedelics, and how his relationship with John Milius ended with a punch and a transfer of one millions dollars. Enjoy! Follow @BillHamiltonSurf Billy Hamilton, Jesus of Cool from ENCYCLOPEDIA of SURFING on Vimeo. CREDITS Host, Producer, Writer: David Scales …

Continue reading "326 – Billy Hamilton: Part Two"

The post 326 – Billy Hamilton: Part Two appeared first on Surf Splendor .

Billy Hamilton joins David to discuss growing up in Laguna before the ocean was poisoned by detergents from civilization’s expansion, his early travels in Kauai in the 60’s, meeting Laird and his mother on the beach at Rocky Point, surfing Pipeline naked, and living (partying) with Bunker Spreckles when he inherited $100 million dollars. Part …

Continue reading "325 – Billy Hamilton: Part One"

The post 325 – Billy Hamilton: Part One appeared first on Surf Splendor .

Kauai waterman Terry Chung joins us to talk about his recent trip to foil Nazare with Laird, raising well-adjusted children on Kauai, his journey through board building, the evolution of the surf foil, and how to sustain big wave wipeouts at the age of 65. Enjoy! Follow @PapaHeeNalu_Kauai View this post on Instagram M?kaukau. Two …

Continue reading "324 – Terry Chung"

The post 324 – Terry Chung appeared first on Surf Splendor .