Recently I was asked at a local gun show how long our rifle scope held zero. And I didn't have a conclusive answer tbh. All I could say was months if you are using it and handling it with a few bumps and bangs, but if not and you are very careful it should lasts years. 

Poor rifle scopes will lose zero simply after using them, which is not good. Ours thankfully is not that way! 

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Holding zero refers to the ability of a rifle scope to maintain its point of aim, or the point where the crosshairs are aligned, after being adjusted and zeroed in. When a rifle scope is zeroed in, it is adjusted so that the point of impact, or where the bullet hits, matches the point of aim. Once a scope is zeroed in, it should hold zero and maintain that alignment, allowing the shooter to accurately aim at a target without the need for constant readjustment. If a scope does not hold zero, it means that the point of aim and point of impact are no longer aligned and the shooter will need to readjust the scope before taking a shot.

So I know what method I am going to be using long term but I will attempt to master the no tech version first. I imagine the learning is priceless so why the heck not ey!

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Zeroing in a scope refers to the process of adjusting the scope's reticle (crosshairs) to align with the point of impact of the bullet. This allows the shooter to aim at a target and have the bullet hit the target at the point of aim. There are several methods for zeroing a scope, including low-tech and no-tech methods.

Low-tech methods include using a bore sighter or a laser boresight. A bore sighter is a tool that is inserted into the barrel of the firearm and projects a laser or reticle onto a distant target, allowing the shooter to align the scope's reticle with the projected reticle. A laser boresight is a laser that attaches to the muzzle of the firearm, and projects a laser dot onto the target, which can be aligned with the scope's reticle.

No-tech methods involve adjusting the scope by shooting at a target and observing where the bullet hits in relation to the reticle. This is done by firing a few rounds at a target at a known distance, and then adjusting the scope's windage and elevation turrets to align the reticle with the point of impact. Once the scope is zeroed, the shooter can aim at a target and know that the bullet will hit the point of aim.

It is important to note that zeroing a scope is also affected by the distance of the target, bullet caliber, and wind conditions, so it is recommended to re-zero the scope if conditions change.

Finding the right and most preferred mount to attach your accessories, in my case the rifle sling I purchased, proved to be a pain in the ass. However, I did my research, purchased a few items that ended up to be incorrect, and finally came out the other end with what I wanted and now prefer. 

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Quick-detach (QD) mounts are a type of attachment system that allows for the easy and secure attachment and detachment of accessories, such as scopes, to a firearm. These mounts feature a quick release mechanism that enables the user to quickly and easily remove or attach the accessory without the need for tools or special equipment. QD mounts provide a convenient way for shooters to switch between different accessories or to remove an accessory for cleaning or storage. They also provide a secure and stable platform for the accessory to be mounted, ensuring accuracy and consistency in shots.

I did used to wonder why optics have risers, but then I did some research and experienced the real reason why. And it turns out for one of my AR15's it was a necessary element of my scope. 

Get laser focused and on target quickly with this reflex red dot tube style sight from 2nd Amen.

Co-witnessing refers to the alignment of the iron sights on a firearm with the reticle (crosshairs) in a scope. This allows the shooter to use the iron sights and scope simultaneously, with the iron sights visible through the scope. Co-witnessing is useful in case the scope becomes damaged or runs out of battery, as the shooter can still use the iron sights to shoot accurately. It also allows the shooter to quickly transition between using the scope for long-range shots and the iron sights for close-range shots.

Co witnessing - what exactly is it? I asked this question when I was doing the initial research for our tube style reflex red dot sight. Someone asked me a question and referred to co-witnessing so I went down the rabbit hole! Haha

For super fast target acquisition check out this reflex red dot scope, learn more. 

Co-witnessing refers to the practice of using multiple sighting systems, such as iron sights and a red dot sight or holographic sight, on a firearm at the same time. The idea is that if one sight fails or becomes obstructed, the shooter can quickly switch to the other sight and continue to engage targets. Co-witnessing can be achieved by having both the iron sights and the red dot sight/holographic sight mounted at the same height, allowing the shooter to look through the red dot sight or holographic sight and still see the iron sights in the same field of view. This way the shooter can maintain a proper sight alignment and target acquisition in case the electronic sight battery fails or the electronic sight malfunctions.

It's a useful technique that helps increase the shooter's accuracy and versatility in the field, and it's commonly used by law enforcement, military, and competitive shooters. Keep in mind that co-witnessing only works properly when the iron sights and the electronic sight are zeroed and aligned at the same point of impact.

I did initially think that after I purchasing a sight or scope that I just install it and that's it, its done and wherever the dot or crosshair is pointing is what Im going to hit but it turns out that's not quite the case. You MUST zero it in. 

Faster target acquisition with the 2nd Amen Reflex Red Dot Sight, buy now.

Zeroing in a rifle scope refers to the process of adjusting the scope's reticle (the crosshairs or other aiming point) to align with the point of impact of the bullet at a specific distance. This allows the shooter to accurately hit targets at that distance without the need for holdover or compensation.

The process typically involves shooting a group of shots at a target set at a known distance, and then adjusting the scope's elevation and windage turrets (or knobs) to move the point of impact of the bullets to match the position of the reticle. Once the reticle and bullet impact are aligned, the rifle is considered "zeroed" at that distance.

Zeroing a rifle scope is an important step for any shooter looking to achieve accurate shots at different distances. It's important to know that the process is usually done at a specific distance, usually 100 yards for most rifle zeroing, but the distance can vary depending on the caliber, the ammunition and the purpose of the rifle. Once the rifle is zeroed, the shooter can use the reticle to estimate holdover or windage corrections for targets at other ranges, using the reticle's markings or ballistic calculators or reticle.

Before you go any further, if you need a reflex red dot sight, look no further than our tube style one right here: 

The objective lens of a scope is the lens located at the front of the scope, closest to the target. It is responsible for gathering light and forming an image of the target. The size and quality of the objective lens can affect the overall performance of the scope, particularly in low light conditions.

The ocular lens is the lens located at the rear of the scope, closest to the shooter's eye. It is responsible for magnifying the image formed by the objective lens and for focusing the image so that it appears clearly to the shooter. The ocular lens is typically adjustable, allowing the shooter to fine-tune the focus of the image to their individual vision. The size and quality of the ocular lens can also affect the overall performance of the scope.

In summary, the objective and ocular lenses are important components of a scope that work together to form a clear and accurate image of the target for the shooter. The size and quality of these lenses can affect the performance of the scope and are important considerations when choosing a scope.

Our first episode based on a request! So exciting. I understood somewhat this topic but it was interesting diving a little deeper in my research. I thought of a few different podcasts to cover the topic in much detail and today we'll start with some basics. 

The main difference between first focal plane (FFP) and second focal plane (SFP) scopes is how the reticle size changes as the magnification is adjusted. In an FFP scope, the reticle size changes along with the magnification, so the size of the crosshairs relative to the target stays the same at all magnification levels. In an SFP scope, the reticle size stays the same at all magnification levels, so the size of the crosshairs relative to the target will change as the magnification is adjusted.

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When I was attempting to put on my rifle sling I almost smashed my equipment to pieces. My rifle did not have 2 attachment points, and I did not know what sling mount to go with, what was compatible and what exactly I needed to add to my rifle in order to have a two-point attachment sling. I was angry to say the least! 

To install a 2-point rifle sling on your AR-15, you will need:

To install the sling:

If you are uncertain about how to install the sling or mounting hardware, it is always a good idea to refer to the instructions provided by the manufacturer or to seek guidance from a knowledgeable individual.

Shop the best soft case rifle bag from 2nd Amen here.

This was driving me mad and in the end it would have been good to know just this little bit of information. 

My rifle only had 1 attachment point situated on the rifle, which was at the buttstock. There was nothing else at the foreend or on the barrel so I found myself looking for additional parts. 

Attaching a rifle sling to a rifle allows you to carry the rifle comfortably and conveniently, freeing up your hands for other tasks. There are several ways to attach a rifle sling, depending on the type of sling and the rifle itself. Most rifles have at least one attachment point on the buttstock and one on the fore-end of the rifle, which can be used to attach a two-point sling. Single-point and three-point slings only require a single attachment point on the buttstock. If your rifle does not have an attachment point at the fore-end, you will need to install one, such as a sling swivel or a sling mount, before you can attach the sling. Once the attachment points are in place, you can attach the sling by threading the straps through the attachment points and securing them in place with a buckle or a snap. It is important to adjust the length of the sling to your preference and test it to ensure it is securely attached and properly adjusted.

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