Talkin' Dirt

In this episode I’m joined by Lake Cowart Jr. of Cowart Seafood Corporation, one of the largest oyster operations on the East Coast. We talk about how oysters are grown today, the role hatcheries and triploid oysters play in modern aquaculture, and how factors like salinity, weather, disease, and predators shape production in the Chesapeake Bay. Lake also shares his perspective on regulation, why Virginia’s leasing system works, and how water quality and industry collaboration are improving conditions on the water.

This is my second recent conversation with an oyster farmer, and together the episodes highlight just how diverse and complex this industry really is.

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In this episode of Talkin’ Dirt, I sit down with Glen Herlihy, one of the founding members of Seattle’s Beacon Food Forest, a community-run project transforming public land into a thriving landscape of fruit trees, berries, vegetables, herbs, and native plants, all open for the community to enjoy and harvest.

What began as a permaculture class project has grown into nearly four acres of productive green space built around food access, community involvement, and the idea that public land can provide more than just a place to walk through. Glen shares how the project came to life, the partnerships that made it possible, and how volunteers continue to shape its future.

We explore the principles of food forestry, responsible foraging, and the challenges of maintaining a space where anyone can harvest fresh food. Glen also discusses the forest’s contributions to local food banks, the importance of creating welcoming community spaces, and the role projects like this can play in strengthening local food systems.

Our conversation also takes a broader look at American agriculture, from the financial struggles facing small farmers to soil degradation, monoculture, and the importance of regenerative growing practices.

I also had the opportunity to volunteer at one of the food forest’s monthly work parties, getting a firsthand look at the people and community spirit behind this unique project.

Learn more about Beacon Food Forest or get involved at https://beaconfoodforest.org.

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In this episode of Talkin’ Dirt, I sit down with Gavin Augustine, the 26-year-old owner of Qualman Oyster Farms in Charleston, Oregon, just outside Coos Bay. Gavin took a leap of faith when he purchased an oyster farm that had been operating since 1934, despite knowing almost nothing about oysters at the time. Now, he's working to rebuild the operation and carve out his own future in an industry that's as challenging as it is fascinating.

We get into the world of oyster farming along Oregon's South Slough estuary, where oysters are planted and harvested by hand, the quality of the mud can make or break a harvest, and it takes nearly two years to bring an oyster to market. Gavin explains the challenges of managing leased tidelands, dealing with invasive green crabs and sand shrimp, and experimenting with new growing techniques to improve production.

We also dig into the relationship between farming and environmental stewardship, the frustrations of navigating regulations, and why Gavin believes farmers and policymakers need to work more closely together. Along the way, we talk about the importance of community, the future of coastal agriculture, and Gavin's ambitions to grow the business while helping more people understand where their food comes from.

It's a conversation about taking chances, learning as you go, and the surprising amount of work that goes into something most of us never think twice about eating.

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In this episode of Talkin’ Dirt, I sit down with Michael Evensen of Lost Coast Ranch, tucked away along Northern California’s rugged and remote Lost Coast. Michael's ranch is surrounded by steep green hillsides on one side and the Pacific Ocean on the other. He's spent decades building a life rooted in the land and learning from the natural world around him.

Michael's approach to ranching goes far beyond raising cattle. We dive into soil health, rotational grazing, pasture restoration, traditional ecological knowledge, and the use of controlled burns to improve grasslands. We also explore the challenges of organic certification, the consolidation of the beef industry, and the ongoing debate over grazing on public lands.

This conversation is about much more than agriculture. Michael shares stories from his early days in the back-to-the-land movement, his philosophy of living without debt, and his belief that true wealth comes from relationships, community, and a deep connection to the place you call home. We also discuss his involvement in salmon restoration and efforts to reconnect Indigenous communities with their ancestral lands and cultural traditions.

Part history lesson, part ranching discussion, and part philosophy of life, this conversation offers a fascinating perspective from a man who has spent nearly a lifetime observing, working with, and caring for the land.

Learn more about Lost Coast Ranch

www.lost-coast-ranch.com

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In this episode of Talkin’ Dirt, I sit down with Sarah and Lee Mora of Humboldt Grassfed Beef, a fourth-generation family ranching operation in Humboldt County, California.

Since 1998, the Mora family has been raising 100% grass-fed and grass-finished beef, taking advantage of the region's unique climate and exceptionally long growing season. But as Sarah explains, they're not just cattle ranchers. In many ways, they're grass farmers. By carefully managing their pastures, rotating cattle, and protecting the land, they've developed a system that allows them to produce high-quality beef entirely on grass.

We talk about the history of their family ranch, what makes grass-finished beef different from conventional grain-finished beef, and why raising cattle this way takes more time and careful management. We also explore the business side of ranching, including the challenges of keeping beef local, working with independent grocery stores, and navigating an industry increasingly dominated by large-scale operations.

Throughout our conversation, Sarah and Lee share their perspective on environmental stewardship, the economics of raising cattle, and the importance of preserving their ranch for future generations. It's a fascinating look at the work behind producing beef and the deep connection ranching families have to the land they depend on.

Learn more about Humboldt Grassfed Beef:
https://www.humboldtgrassfedbeef.com/

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In this episode of Talkin’ Dirt, I sit down with Franck Carisey of Uluwehi Coffee Farm, a small, award-winning coffee operation nestled in the heart of Hawaiʻi's famous Kona coffee belt.

Franck and his wife spent years traveling the world and working in corporate jobs before deciding to purchase five acres of undeveloped land on the Big Island. What began as a retirement dream turned into a full-time farming operation, and today they're producing some of the highest-rated coffee in Hawaiʻi.

We talk about what makes Kona such a remarkable place to grow coffee, from its volcanic landscape and consistent rainfall to the afternoon cloud cover that helps protect the trees from too much sun. Franck walks me through the different coffee varieties he grows, the process of turning freshly picked coffee cherries into roasted beans, and the surprisingly complex world of coffee tasting and cupping competitions.

We also get into the realities of running a small coffee farm, including pests, disease, production costs, and the challenges of balancing sustainability with profitability. Franck shares his perspective on the future of Kona coffee farming, particularly as agricultural land gives way to development and fewer young people choose farming as a career.

It's a fascinating conversation about the work, science, and attention to detail behind a great cup of coffee, and a fitting way to wrap up my series of interviews with farmers across Hawaiʻi.

Uluwehi Coffee Farm: https://uluwehicoffeefarm.com/

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In this episode of Talkin’ Dirt, I sit down with Dash from Starseed Ranch, a lush, coastal farm tucked into the northern side of Hawai‘i’s Big Island. What started years ago as a small coconut farm has grown into a thriving landscape that blends farming, education, and cultural restoration.

We talk about the roots of Hip Agriculture, the nonprofit that now shares the land, and how their team is using regenerative practices and traditional Hawaiian food systems to reconnect people with place. From canoe crops to community programs, Dash shares how Starseed is cultivating abundance — not just from the soil, but within the spirit of everyone who visits.

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In this episode of Talkin’ Dirt, I sit down with Troy and Vi from O.K. Farms, a 320-acre tropical farm in Hilo on the Big Island of Hawaiʻi.

O.K. Farms grows everything from tropical fruit, coffee, and heart of palm to spices, citrus, vegetables, and traditional Hawaiian crops. But this conversation goes well beyond what they’re growing. We talk about what sustainability actually means when you’re trying to make a farm work in Hawaiʻi, where labor is expensive, nearly everything has to be shipped in, and local farmers are competing with crops grown much more cheaply elsewhere.

We also get into the farm’s growing agroforestry project and the work Vi is doing to rebuild soil health using Korean Natural Farming practices, indigenous microorganisms, on-farm fertilizers, and a system designed to rely less and less on outside inputs. Troy talks about how COVID exposed some of the weaknesses in Hawaiʻi’s food system, why O.K. Farms helped launch a CSA program with other local farms, and the difficult economics behind producing food for the people who actually live on the islands.

We also talk about land, water, tourism, food sovereignty, and the 74-acre conservation easement that ensures a portion of O.K. Farms will remain agricultural land forever.

At the center of the conversation is a pretty simple idea: the land will be here long after we’re gone. The question is what we do with it while it’s in our care.

Learn more about O.K. Farms: okfarmshawaii.com

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In this episode of Talkin’ Dirt, I sit down with Eva Lee, co-founder of Tea Hawaii & Company in Volcano, Hawaii, just a few minutes from Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park.

Eva and her husband, Chiu, were part of the first generation of growers who helped establish Hawaii’s modern tea industry. They came to farming from backgrounds in the visual and performing arts, eventually building a life around tea that blends agriculture, ceramics, culture, and craftsmanship.

We talk about why Hawaii turned out to be such a good place to grow tea, and what happens when you grow it at 4,000 feet on the slopes of Kīlauea. Eva explains how volcanic soil, elevation, rainfall, surrounding vegetation, and even ash from an eruption can influence what eventually ends up in your cup. We also get into cultivars, propagation, and how the same tea leaf can become white, green, oolong, or black tea depending on how it’s processed.
Eva also takes me much deeper into the culture and history surrounding tea, from ancient tea plants that can live for hundreds of years to the challenges of building a specialty tea industry here in the United States. We talk about the difference between something marketed as “Hawaiian tea” and tea that was actually grown and processed in Hawaii, why origin matters, and what it might take for Americans to start thinking about specialty tea the way we already think about wine and coffee.

Tea Hawaii & Company: teahawaii.com

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In this episode of Talkin’ Dirt, I sit down with Stephen Yundt of Puna Gold Estate in Pāhoa, Hawaiʻi. Stephen and his wife, Liz, have created a tropical food forest filled with cacao, vanilla, coffee, fruit trees, vegetables, herbs, and flowers.

We talk about how Stephen and Liz transformed an overgrown piece of land into a productive farm, and how much of what they grow makes its way down the road to their family restaurant, Pele’s Kitchen. Stephen also walks me through the process of turning cacao pods into finished chocolate bars, including fermentation, roasting, winnowing, and why producing chocolate creates opportunities that simply selling cacao does not.

We also get into the incredibly small window for hand-pollinating vanilla, companion planting in a tropical environment, building healthy soil, raising bees, and the geckos that have figured out how to raid Stephen’s beehives. Stephen shares what he has learned from decades of growing food and why farming, no matter how carefully you plan, always involves a certain amount of gambling.

At 72 years old, Stephen is still farming, making chocolate, helping run a restaurant, leading farm tours, and teaching local high school students. This is a great conversation about tropical agriculture, adding value to what you grow, and the curiosity it takes to keep learning from the land.

If you enjoy the show, follow Talkin’ Dirt and leave a rating or review wherever you listen. It’s one of the easiest ways to help more people find the podcast.Learn more about Puna Gold Estate:
https://punagoldestate.com/

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Website: ⁠⁠⁠⁠TalkinDirt.farm