Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger discuss how they go about finger training in the pursuit of gaining finger strength and keeping everyone’s fingers healthy and injury-free.

TBP 236: Common Sense Finger Training with Matt and Alex

Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.

Sports

Nutrition

Health & Fitness

Wilderness

I talked with coaches Alex Stiger and Matt Pincus about how they coach their clients to make the best use of their time outside of work to train and climb. And I talk about how to eat well throughout every day to fuel yourself for climbing and training, regardless of what your busy schedule looks like.
We looked at three case studies:
The 9-5 employee
Shift workers (health care workers, etc)
Parent who may or may not have a job
Things We Covered
How to fit training in even on work days for a shift worker
What to do on days off after shift work stint is over
Nutrition tips for shift workers
Should 9-5’ers focus on bouldering to make the most of their time?
How often to be training and climbing
Making sure to vary sessions
Different climbing/training schedules for weekend warriors
How to avoid overtraining
Importance of having a plan B if you’re a parent
Usefulness of home walls for parents
Bonus Content on Patreon
Patreon Bonus Content
There’s some bonus content at the end of this episode about:
Having FOMO when we see pros’ training plans on social media
How to know what’s right for YOU
Minimum effective dosage of hanging and weight lifting
How my climbing training has evolved to be almost completely on-the-wall and why that’s still considered “training”
What is “training” exactly?
You can find that bonus content and the uncut, ad-free episode without intro or outro on my Patreon page.
GET THE RAW INTERVIEW AND BONUS CONTENT

Training and Climbing for People with Full-Time Jobs

This is a repost of the interview Steven Dimmitt did with me on episode 214 of The Nugget Climbing Podcast. In it, I talk about how mindset coaching massively improved my climbing and my life, why I got into coaching, and we do some coaching on Steven throughout the interview. Thank you to Steven for having me on the show again. I always love talking to him :) 
After the interview, we did some bonus questions from his patrons about nutrition, coaching, and the business side of things. We get into it about being entrepreneurs and what it's really like for me/us as business owners, and you can find that plus the uncut video of this interview on the TrainingBeta Patreon.

The Nugget Climbing Podcast: Neely Quinn on How to Find Contentment in Climbing, Banish Shame, and Climb Harder Than Ever

In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about some advancements in training finger endurance that he’s discovered with his patients and in the research. He describes in detail how we can be more efficient with our finger training to get the most out of our sessions.

Finger Endurance Training Advancements with Tyler Nelson

Shaina and I sat down and answered a bunch of questions we received from our Instagram audience about nutrition for climbers.

Climbing Nutrition Questions Answered by Shaina Savoy and Neely

I sat down with current (and past) professional climbers Emily Harrington, Paige Claassen, and Angie Payne to talk about how becoming mothers in the past couple years has changed their lives as climbers. 
Emily Harrington is known for her hard sport ascents (up to 5.14b or 8c), her one-day ascent of El Cap, her ascents of Everest and other big peaks, and her epic skiing accomplishments. 
Paige Claassen is known for her hard sport ascents (up to 5.14d or 9a) and her recent ascent (post baby) of a V14/5.14d in Rocklands. 
Angela Payne is known for her accolades as a competition climber in the 2000's and the fact that she was the first woman to send V13. 
But beyond that, they're really incredible, dynamic, intelligent people who grew up together. Their close relationship and the fact that they all became mothers at around the same time is part of why I asked them to be on the show all together as more of a friendly conversation between old friends.
I wanted to give the world more of an in-depth picture of these elite climbers' lives than we see on social media. 
What We Talked About
How they all love being a mom even more than they thought they would
How being a mom has changed their climbing
What's been harder about motherhood than they thought it would be
Any long-lasting physical changes they've experienced, and how that's affected their climbing
Where they are now in their climbing compared with pre-baby
Some interesting comments they got on social media throughout pregnancy and motherhood
Some awkward comments they got in person about their bodies, etc
How they've been affected mentally in their climbing by having a child 
Whether or not they think their best days of climbing are still ahead of them
Bonus content on Patreon
There's some bonus content at the end of this episode about how they would've liked to have been talked to by strangers and friends during pregnancy and afterward, whether they want more kids, and how their sponsors responded to their pregnancy. You can find that bonus content and the uncut, ad-free episode without intro or outro on my Patreon page.
I hope you love this conversation as much as I did! It's not only for mothers, but for anyone who wants to understand motherhood through elite climbers' eyes.

TBP 236: Common Sense Finger Training with Matt and Alex

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