Erin Ettenger is a 25-year-old software engineer who lives in Seattle, Washington. I asked Erin to be on the show because she uses our Route Climbing Training Program and has had some amazing success on it, so I wanted her to share her story with you all.  Through using the program (and adapting it intelligently to her own needs), she gained work capacity, meaning she can now climb more routes in a session, and she improved her overall strength levels.  She went from mega-projecting 5.11a to regularly warming up on 5.11a's in a relatively short time. She'll tell you all about what she liked about the program, what was hard, and how all of this has translated to her outdoor climbing.

TBP 205 :: Going from 5.11 projects to 5.11 Warm-ups with Erin Ettenger

Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.

Sports

Nutrition

Health & Fitness

Wilderness

If you are a short climber who gets frustrated by your height sometimes, this episode will give you a roadmap to look at your own feelings, values, and thoughts about the situation so that you can enjoy climbing for what it is to YOU - not how it compares with someone else’s experience.

TBP 260: Short Climbers - How to Feel Less Frustrated about Your Height

Author, psychologist, researcher, and clinician Aric Prather, PhD  talks about the practical advice he wrote about in his book The Sleep Prescription: 7 Days to Your Best Rest and the work he does in his sleep clinic. In this interview he offers clear steps to help you sleep better so you can feel more recovered, energetic, and calm in life and in climbing. 
Things people do to help them sleep that actually undermine sleep
How to use cognitive behavioral therapy to sleep
How to properly wind down before sleep
Thoughts on drugs and supplements for sleep
Using sleep diary
Importance of standardized wake-up time
Using sleep deprivation to increase “sleep drive” to eventually improve sleep
How to deal with rumination that keeps you awake
Bonus Content on Patreon
There’s some bonus content from this episode on Patreon.
what he thinks of the drug I was on (mirtazapine) for sleep and histamine use for sleep
why my alphabet game puts me to sleep most of the time
some thoughts on biomarker testing to figure out why you’re not sleeping
why nightly wake-ups might not be so abnormal.
You can find that bonus content and the uncut, ad-free episode without intro or outro on my Patreon page. 
Help support the show and get nutrition and mindset coaching on Patreon.

TBP 259: Sleep Researcher Aric Prather's Tips to Sleep Better and Longer

I talked with coaches Alex Stiger and Matt Pincus about how they coach their clients to make the best use of their time outside of work to train and climb. And I talk about how to eat well throughout every day to fuel yourself for climbing and training, regardless of what your busy schedule looks like.
We looked at three case studies:
The 9-5 employee
Shift workers (health care workers, etc)
Parent who may or may not have a job
Things We Covered
How to fit training in even on work days for a shift worker
What to do on days off after shift work stint is over
Nutrition tips for shift workers
Should 9-5’ers focus on bouldering to make the most of their time?
How often to be training and climbing
Making sure to vary sessions
Different climbing/training schedules for weekend warriors
How to avoid overtraining
Importance of having a plan B if you’re a parent
Usefulness of home walls for parents
Bonus Content on Patreon
Patreon Bonus Content
There’s some bonus content at the end of this episode about:
Having FOMO when we see pros’ training plans on social media
How to know what’s right for YOU
Minimum effective dosage of hanging and weight lifting
How my climbing training has evolved to be almost completely on-the-wall and why that’s still considered “training”
What is “training” exactly?
You can find that bonus content and the uncut, ad-free episode without intro or outro on my Patreon page.
GET THE RAW INTERVIEW AND BONUS CONTENT

TBP 258: Training and Climbing for People with Full-Time Jobs

This is a repost of the interview Steven Dimmitt did with me on episode 214 of The Nugget Climbing Podcast. In it, I talk about how mindset coaching massively improved my climbing and my life, why I got into coaching, and we do some coaching on Steven throughout the interview. Thank you to Steven for having me on the show again. I always love talking to him :) 
After the interview, we did some bonus questions from his patrons about nutrition, coaching, and the business side of things. We get into it about being entrepreneurs and what it's really like for me/us as business owners, and you can find that plus the uncut video of this interview on the TrainingBeta Patreon.

The Nugget Climbing Podcast: Neely Quinn on How to Find Contentment in Climbing, Banish Shame, and Climb Harder Than Ever

In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about some advancements in training finger endurance that he’s discovered with his patients and in the research. He describes in detail how we can be more efficient with our finger training to get the most out of our sessions.

TBP 205 :: Going from 5.11 projects to 5.11 Warm-ups with Erin Ettenger

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