The Bangkok Podcast

After visiting a rooftop bar with one of the most spectacular views in Bangkok, the boys discuss what the evolution and growth of the sky-high drinking/photo establishments says about the evolution and growth of Bangkok itself.

Greg begins by framing rooftop bars as a barometer of Bangkok's health, since they require investment, density, tourism, and confidence, and he notes that today's bars compete over who can claim the most dramatic view. Ed clarifies that the two hosts are jeans and t-shirt guys who care about views rather than trendiness. He recalls that when they first arrived, Sirocco at State Tower, made famous by The Hangover Part II, was nearly the only notable option, whereas Bangkok now ranks alongside New York and Dubai as a top rooftop city.

Next, Greg describes a recent work evening at Le Du Kaan atop The Empire on Sathorn. He was struck that a bar set well back from the river could offer such a sweeping view, looking across at Mahanakhon at sunset, and that Baiyoke Tower, once the city's must-visit landmark, now looked small and distant. The hosts agree its neighborhood seems frozen in time, and Greg adds that even Moon Bar at the Banyan Tree is renovating to keep up with the competition.

Ed then offers his photography advice. He recommends arriving well before sunset, framing the snaking bends of the Chao Phraya, seeking out Bangkok's spectacular cloud formations, and contrasting modern towers with temples like Wat Arun or older Chinese and European buildings. Greg shares a favorite shot of a small temple with State Tower looming behind it. Finally, the hosts discuss the abandoned Ghost Tower and the old trend of sneaking inside to take pictures.

Hey, remember when the visa rules changed, making us all learn entirely new procedures and protocols? No, the other time. No, the other…no, not that one, the other time.

Greg begins by discussing the latest tightening of Thailand's entry rules, especially the reduction of visa-exempt stays from sixty days back to thirty. He and Ed use the change to illustrate a broader problem for foreigners: Thai immigration rules are constantly evolving, and advice that was accurate only a few months ago may already be obsolete.

Ed then argues that Thailand remains welcoming to visitors, but the old atmosphere of loosely enforced rules seems to be fading. The guys connect that shift partly to highly publicized cases of foreigners behaving badly and partly to a wider push by Thai authorities to enforce laws more literally. They stress that foreigners increasingly need to understand exactly what their visa permits rather than relying on what people historically got away with.

Next, Greg and Ed discuss the traditional visa system, including the Non-B route for people working in Thailand and the awkward position of remote workers who were technically working while entering under other categories. They then examine the Destination Thailand Visa, designed partly for digital nomads and people pursuing approved "soft power" activities. They discuss its long validity, repeated six-month stays, and financial requirements.

Toward the end, Ed explains recent changes making the DTV harder to obtain, including tighter residence requirements and criminal-record documentation. The overall message is that foreigners now need better planning, current information, and stricter compliance with the rules.

Utilizing a topic suggested by listener Wes, Greg and Ed discuss the unwritten 'rules' of Thai culture - the ones that everyone knows but aren't written down anywhere, despite Ed wishing they were because he really has no idea what he's doing right and wrong! As Greg notes, we all have to fake it until we make it.

Greg then begins a series of specific puzzles that farangs have to navigate, including the proper use of the expletive 'arai wa,' knowing when or how much to lower your head when passing in front of someone, trying to determine the correct use of 'nong' and 'phee' when interacting with a stranger of indeterminate age, and how to wai someone when your hands are otherwise occupied.

The guys discuss each puzzle, but Ed notes his overarching problem: what to do when Thai people treat him as a foreigner and don't follow Thailand's cultural norms. Should farangs follow Thai rules when Thais don't? No one knows! But Greg and Ed agree that the impact of these difficulties is lessened by Thais flexibility and general forgiving nature. So do your best out there fellow expats, but don't worry about it too much. It's all 'mai pen rai' in the end. :)

"Wellness" is a huge industry, and especially in Thailand, so the boys decide this week to discuss the options that are available.

Ed begins the main segment by noting that while he expected it to be straightforward, he discovered an overwhelming variety of retreats and treatments. Greg chimes in to express his general distaste for the wellness trend, explaining that he associates it with bougie treatments that sell real results wrapped in woo-woo hype, and that a relaxing holiday sitting by a swimming pool may result in the same outcomes. However, Ed counters by explaining his genuine desire to return from a vacation feeling physically and mentally improved.

Next, Ed walks through the different levels of wellness holidays available. He starts with the basic tier, which involves booking a standard luxury hotel and adding a specialized wellness package that includes healthy meals and spa visits. Then, he describes the next level up, consisting of dedicated wellness resorts. These facilities strip away typical vacation distractions to focus completely on specialized treatments, ranging from acupuncture to customized fitness routines.

Finally, Ed brings up the ultimate luxury tier, mentioning an incredibly expensive resort that employs elite professionals to provide personalized health programs. Ed and Greg also touch upon budget-friendly alternatives, such as island yoga camps, though they note these lack luxurious amenities. The discussion wraps up with both hosts agreeing that despite some scientifically questionable treatments, a structured environment leaves most guests feeling genuinely rejuvenated.

Greg begins by discussing the late Bangkok street artist Khun Pichai, whose intricate and cryptic sidewalk scribbles across the capital attained a devoted cult following over the years, with sightings of his mysterious, sprawling artworks treated like discovered treasures. If you don't know who Khun Picha was, watch this excellent short documentary to get an idea.

Many people dismissed Khun Pichai's art as "crazy" or "nonsense" but we think there was something else there. So, we harnessed the power of AI to give us some insight, and perhaps find details that we simply were not able to see. Ed reflects on the artist's complex background, observing that Khun Pichai seemed to possess a rich internal life that found raw expression through public city surfaces.

Next, Greg walks through the artificial intelligence interpretations of several individual pieces - find them on our website if you'd like to follow along. The software explains that the seemingly chaotic drawings actually repurpose utility meter readouts, bureaucratic paperwork, radio schematics, and Thai consonants treated like algebraic variables. Ed points out that Khun Pichai famously considered his sketches to be investigative notes and evidence rather than conventional art, demonstrating an intensely focused technical mindset.

Moving forward, Greg shifts the focus to other Bangkok subjects evaluated by artificial intelligence. Greg explains how the software analyzed a city map, attributing notorious traffic congestion to modern roadways that haphazardly traced ancient canals rather than planned survey grids (no surprise, but still pretty on the money). Ed and Greg then explore the program's evaluation of longtail boat mechanics, highlighting why repurposed car engines and long propeller shafts remain ideal for narrow waterways. Greg concludes the exercise by sharing an artificial intelligence comparison of Lumphini and Benjakitti parks, contrasting early European landscape ideals with contemporary ecological design.

While using the cold, inhuman logic of an AI to analyze the warm, squishy creativity that flowed from a human mind might seem a bit gauche, AI is nonetheless a powerful tool that can uncover hidden details.

Moving to Thailand can be a disorienting, discombobulating experience, even if you're on your own. Now imagine doing it with 9 hours to prepare. That's what Vic Levitin and his family did, but the unknown and unplanned turned into something great - though not without its speed bumps.

Greg begins the interview by asking Vic about his sudden relocation to Koh Samui, where he lives full time. Vic explains that although he previously pitched moving to Asia, his wife opposed it until a war broke out in their home country. This crisis forced them to pack and fly to Thailand on incredibly short notice. Next, Vic describes the severe stress of their initial weeks living in limbo. He notes that their mindset shifted from temporary vacationers to permanent residents only when they purchased a couch, symbolizing their commitment to a new life. Vic then discusses how his family integrated by joining Thai boxing, enrolling their children in an international school where they quickly learned English, and building a supportive community of expatriates and locals. Later, Vic highlights the peace of escaping the corporate grind, though he acknowledges the financial pressures of raising a family abroad. He also shares his past experience running a company that released sterile mosquitoes to combat tropical diseases.

Following the interview, Greg and Ed reflect on the sheer intensity of relocating an entire family overnight. Greg compares the chaotic packing process to a stressful game show challenge. Ed and Greg express admiration for how Vic and his wife managed the psychological leap from merely escaping a conflict to intentionally building a grounded home. They agree that committing to buying heavy furniture was the ultimate turning point in his journey.

Greg begins by discussing a suggestion from their friend Scott to explore the origins of well-known street names in Bangkok. After briefly touching on familiar spots like Khaosan Road and Lumpini Park, Greg dives into the history of Sukhumvit Road. He notes it was originally a dirt track before being formally constructed and named after the fifth chief of the Department of Highways, who was notably the first Thai person to graduate from the storied MIT. They then confront a bit of trivia - is Sukhumvit actually the longest road in Thailand? Ed digs around online and finds that Phetkasem Highway is actually significantly longer than Sukhumvit.

Next, Greg brings up Wireless Road, explaining that it earned its name because it housed the very first radio telegraph station in Thailand. He mentions there is even a small museum built on the original foundations. Following this, Greg explains that the nearby Saladaeng area got its name from a red pavilion located at an old railway station.

Continuing their discussion, Greg reveals that Asok Road has ties to a famous Buddhist emperor named Ashoka, though it was officially named after a local landowner known as Asok Montri. He then shares that Phetchaburi Road is surprisingly named after a royal aunt rather than the province itself. Finally, Ed wraps up the historical segment by noting that Songwat Road translates to being drawn by a king, while the lengthy name Borommaratchachonnani honors a supreme royal mother.

Greg interviews Dax Ward, an adventurous photographer best known for his beautiful photos of dilapidated buildings and abandoned places. Dax begins by explaining that he was a very late starter to photography, getting a DSLR for the first time in 2015. After a random trip to the airplane graveyard down Ramkhamhaeng Road, he developed an affinity for shooting forgotten and abandoned places.

As it turns out, Thailand (and Bangkok in particular) are perfect places for this style of photography due to the number of unfinished construction projects from the financial crisis of the late 1990s. Additionally, there seem to be a surprising number of new business ventures in the area that fail for whatever reason or another, so there seems to be an endless supply of possible sites for Dax's style of photography.

The guys discuss how Dax discovers and gains access to his locations. It's surprising what a couple hundred baht here and there will do to the attitude of many Thai security guards! Dax then details his research methods and how he manages to build a compelling story around each set of photographs, something that many other photographers don't bother with.

In a world where almost everyone has the technology in their pocket to take a decent photo, Thailand is lucky to have an intrepid, creative photographer like Dax to show us how to do things right.

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In another example of a thriving subculture in Bangkok you wouldn't expect to see, Greg and Ed interview Sunny Sachdev, a Thai Indian banjo player who is part of the informal network of musicians that drive Bangkok's local bluegrass music scene. Check out their page here.

Sunny explains that he discovered the genre through a video recommendation online and immediately felt drawn to the banjo, despite having no prior musical background.

Sunny details how he connected with the local community by attending a jam session at the Srinakarin Night Market. He shares the history of bluegrass, noting its origins in the Appalachian region as a blend of immigrant folk traditions and African instruments. Sunny then describes the unique local subculture, which includes a strong passion for vintage clothing, cowboy attire, and antique instruments salvaged from overseas.

Ed brings up the communal aspect of the music, and Sunny explains how jam sessions are highly inclusive, acoustic circles that eliminate typical stage fright. Sunny also highlights a specific bluegrass festival he organizes to bring these diverse musicians together.

Following the interview, Greg and Ed reflect on how fascinating it is to see such a niche American subculture thriving organically in Thailand. Ed mentions how teaching music history gave him a newfound appreciation for the genre, overcoming his past snobbery. Greg concludes their discussion by emphasizing that bluegrass represents true community music, designed to be shared collaboratively rather than just performed on a stage.

Inspired by recent discussion among friends, and Greg's switch to a new provider, the boys tackle the enduring issue of health insurance as an expat. There are many companies, many plans, and many pitfalls. Which one do you choose?

Ed begins by outlining the main geographic areas of coverage an expatriate must consider, which include coverage in Thailand, in their home country, and during international travel. He notes that many young people mistakenly skip buying health insurance, and while Thai medical care is relatively inexpensive, he strongly advises against going completely uninsured. Next, Greg shares his personal journey, explaining how he transitioned from an excellent corporate policy to a global plan that excluded the United States due to its exorbitant costs.

Ed brings up his own strategy, stating that he currently relies on a basic Thai government plan for minor health issues but desperately needs to find a policy that covers major catastrophic events. Greg then reveals that advancing in age caused his insurance premiums to drastically increase, which recently forced him to switch to a more affordable plan that only covers him within Thailand. He advises that many companies are willing to negotiate higher deductibles for lower premiums to help cover major disasters.

Later, Ed confesses he frequently travels back to America without any medical coverage, acknowledging the financial risk. He points out that an artificial intelligence program informed him that top Thai hospitals offer world class success rates for major surgeries, proving local healthcare is a smart choice for aging expatriates and coverage in the States might not be necessary.