The Broad Beta Podcast

This story was written by Tory Dille and originally published on the Broad Beta website in September of 2024. It is a beautiful and vulnerable recollection of when Tory lost her mother to cancer. She later climbed Mount Olympus with two dear friends to spread her mother's ashes. Tory honors the unique landscape of the Olympic Peninsula with vivid descriptions, taking you back there with her.

Tory is an educator and an advocate for wildlife and wild places. She is currently in law school pursuing a career in environmental law with an emphasis on public lands and endangered species protection. She splits her time between small communities in Southwest Montana, Colorado, and the Pacific Northwest.

See photos of the lush Pacific Northwest landscape and of Tory and her climbing partners here, on the Broad Beta website.
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Written by Tory Dille. Follow her on Instagram @tory_dille
Recorded and produced by Cat Coe

www.broadbeta.com

Kelly Halpin is a professional mountain ultra runner and adventure athlete. She has a background in climbing, hiking, and snowboarding in the Tetons and surrounding wilderness. For the last 10 years, Kelly has merged her passions for running, climbing and exploring remote places by setting fastest known times (FKTs) around the world and establishing long technical routes in her home mountain ranges, typically solo and unsupported. Kelly is also a talented illustrator. Be sure to check out the link to her art here. You can find her masterpieces on children’s books and beer labels and everything in between.

One of her most recent notable accomplishments includes besting her own FKT on the Wind River High Route, which we talk about a lot in this episode. This route is notorious for testing even the most experienced backpackers on multiday trips. The fact that Kelly has set the FKT on it twice is truly mind-blowing…this route is 97 miles long with about 65 of those off trail; just under 30,000 feet of elevation gain; and has a highest point at almost 13,400 feet. On August 1st of 2024, Kelly completed the route in 53 and a half hours.

Kelly's athletic and artistic accomplishments aside, she was a pleasure to talk to, laugh with, and learn about. She is as intelligent as she is athletic, and her passion for environmental science and natural history infiltrates her achievements.

Follow Kelly on Instagram @kyehalpin
Check out her website at www.kellyhalpin.com

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Episode hosted and edited by Cat Coe
Episode music by Holizna Radio
Conclusion music by Rocky Marsiano

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The story on today's episode was written by Kimber Cross and originally published on the Broad Beta website in May of 2024. Check it out to see photos of Kimber's mountaineering and ice climbing expeditions.

Kimber Cross is an adaptive climber who uses a custom prosthetic ice tool to climb waterfall ice around the country. She climbs alpine ice routes in her home state of Washington and was the first disabled climber to use a prosthetic ice tool on the Kautz Route on Mount Rainier/Tahoma. Kimber was born with one hand—she adapted and modified to excel in sports as a kid and now in climbing as an adult.

Kimber is a climb leader for The Mountaineers, a volunteer-based organization in Washington state that offers basic and intermediate courses and climbing trips. She instructs/leads field trips for The Mountaineers, and she leads private climbs year round on glaciers, rock, and ice.

When Kimber isn’t in the backcountry climbing or skiing, she is a National Board Certified educator who teaches kindergarten. Her passion is to teach children about the outdoors with her story of resilience and inclusion.

Follow Kimber on Instagram @kimberbelle
Watch the awesome short film Can't. Will. Did. about Kimber
Check out Kimber's website

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Episode produced and story read by Cat Coe

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The one and only, the legend: Barb Eastman joins us on this episode. We're thrilled to hear her life story - and what a story it is. She began working in outdoor education at a young age, experienced trauma shortly into that career, and went onto become one of the most prolific climbers of her time. While living in Yosemite in the 1970s, she became a big wall specialist, climbing 15 Grade Vs and Grade VIs over a span of about 6 years. She was on the first all female team to climb the Nose on El Capitan - ever! in 1977 - and also one of the first women to work as a Jenny Lake Climbing Ranger in Grand Teton National Park. She won an Award of Valor for a multi-day rescue on the Grand Teton.

Later, Barb moved to Salt Lake City and became a nurse and a mother. She shares with us about that transition and how it shifted her perspective on climbing and steered her toward new adventures. Barb drops some serious wisdom about staying active into her 70's, showing up for others during difficult times, and adaptability throughout different phases in life. We are so inspired by how she has lived her life and continues to prioritize fitness and time outside. Her backcountry canoe trips in NW Alaska (always at least two weeks!) and her big mileage backcountry ski days are goal worthy for anyone of any age.

To see photos from Barb Eastman and Molly Higgins climbing the Nose as the first female party in 1977, check out this awesome article with photos compiled by Lauren DeLaunay Miller on the AAC website: https://americanalpineclub.org/the-molly-higgins-photo-collection

Find Barb on Instagram: @tombarbpaul

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In this story, originally published on the Broad Beta website in March of 2024, Alta Clark shares what it means to be an athlete - and what that means at mealtime. She articulates what so many women struggle with in sports: the impossible expectation to be both light and strong, both lean and unstoppable in the mountains. Alta bravely joins a growing number of influential female athletes at the forefront of this conversation by sharing her own personal journey into, through, and out of disordered eating. Ultimately Alta shares that in leaving dieting behind, she has climbed her hardest grades yet and found more joy and energy.

Alta hails from Yellowstone's own backyard - Cody, Wyoming. She was raised a skier and a dancer, and she began rock climbing in her early adolescence. She also enjoys cooking, clothes, and becoming acquainted with unfamiliar places.

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Follow Alta on Instagram here:
@gaining_altatude

Be sure to check out the Broad Beta website for photos of Alta's adventures and delicious food by clicking here.
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Read by Alta Clark
Produced by Cat Coe
Intro music by Holizna Radio
Conclusion music by Rocky Marsiano

www.broadbeta.com

Quinn Brett and Kim Givler join us to share the epic story of a hand cycling expedition in the Grand Canyon (link to article with photos here). They encountered expected and unexpected challenges and triumphs during this inspiring trip. They make us laugh and captivate us with their resiliency and determination as they recount their group's attempt of the Rim to Rim to Rim.

Quinn Brett needs little introduction in the adventure sports world. Her accomplishments are extensive; we encourage you to check out her website at www.quinnbrett.com. Some highlights include the following: 

• Tour Divide: First hand-cyclist to complete Canada to Mexico (25 days/2700+ miles), July 2021
• First female team to climb two El Capitan routes in a day
• Lurking Fear 5.11 C1, VI: free climb on-sight P4-5.12a, P5-5.12b, P6-5.12c follow, May 2014; 7:47 Women’s Speed Record, October 2014
• Spaceshot 5.13, Zion National Park (first free female ascent)
• Colorado Route, Fitz Roy: first ascent
• Lake Catamount Olympic (3rd place age group, 13th overall female), August 2014

In October 2017, Quinn fell over 100 feet while climbing on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park.  She sustained a T11 spinal cord injury, leaving her paralyzed from the waist down.  She currently pursues cutting edge hand cycling expeditions and works as the Development Director for Unite to Fight Paralysis, combining her extensive backcountry and search and rescue experience as a Rocky Mountain National Park climbing ranger (she was the first female climbing ranger there) with advocacy work for accessibility and spinal cord injury research. Check out Henna Taylor's award-winning documentary about Quinn and her accident: An Accidental Life.

Kim Givler, DPT, joins us from Whitefish, Montana, where she works as a physical therapist and volunteers for her local adaptive sports organization, DREAM Adaptive Recreation. She completed an internship in spinal cord injury and neurologic trauma in South Africa while completing her DPT through Idaho State University in 2009. She then returned to her home state and now works in an outpatient clinic. She has advanced training in manual therapy skills including spinal manipulation and dry needling, specialized training in the management of persistent pain and neurologic trauma, and multiple strategies in the assessment and treatment of athletes. During her free time, you can find Kim in the mountains running, hiking, rock climbing, or skiing, preferably doing something new and interesting that scratches her itch for novel adventures.

Check out the links below to learn more about advocating for spinal cord research and accessibility for adaptive athletes:
CureCast Podcast
Unite to Fight Paralysis & The Freestyle Challenge
@quinndalina on Instagram
@kimgivener on Instagram

www.broadbeta.com

This story was written by Zoe Holmes and originally published on the Broad Beta website in January of 2024. How to Climb As a Wuss takes us to the other end of the spectrum from Rock Warrior's Way. It walks us through embracing climbing as a freaked out, Elvis-legging wuss. We love Zoe’s toolkit for climbing as a wuss. Let’s be honest: her tactics are not only hilarious but all too relatable. She also writes about how she deals with her menstrual cycle inevitably affecting her head game.

Zoe grew up in London, but her family holidays were usually spent walking in the mountains. She took up climbing when she started her PhD in London in her mid 20s. She spent those years mostly climbing indoors except for the occasional trip outdoors. She moved to Sheffield in the UK during a lull in the pandemic. There, she really started climbing outdoors in earnest. She lived in Santa Fe, New Mexico, for a year and enjoyed the sandstone, basalt and granite of the southwest. She now lives in Lausanne (Switzerland).

Follow Zoe on Instagram here: @zedoheeholmes
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Hosted & produced by Cat Coe
Intro music by Holizna Radio
Conclusion music by Rocky Marsiano

www.broadbeta.com

Katy Kelly is a physical therapist and injury rehab coach for mountain athletes. In this episode, we talk about building capacity for both sport progression and injury prevention; starting a business; tools for dealing with fear in mountain sports; and more. Katy's open-mindedness, intelligence, and application of her own lived experience as a mountain athlete make her an invaluable member of the physical therapy field. She exudes bravery and humility as she opens up about starting her own PT business.

Katy graduated from Idaho State University with her DPT in 2019. As a student she sought out opportunities to learn from incredible providers who specialize in working with runners, skiers, and climbers. She has lived and climbed in Idaho, Utah, California, and throughout Montana. Today, she is based in Helena, Montana, where she lives with her partner and their two dogs. She is a business owner, climber, and runner, and after 10 years of teaching snowboarding, she recently switched over to two planks. She helps mountain athletes remotely and in person to get back to their favorite outdoor activities after injury or extended time off.

Reach out to Katy for coaching at [email protected]
Find her on instagram at instagram.com/katelly.marie
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Are you interested in sponsoring the Broad Beta podcast or advertising on an episode? We are in search of funding to keep the platform and our stories alive. We would love to hear from you! Email us at [email protected].
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Produced, hosted, and edited by Cat Coe
Episode music by Holizna Radio
Conclusion music by Rocky Marsiano

www.broadbeta.com

Our guest today is Darcy Chenoweth - a multitalented woman who grew up in Colorado and has spent much of her adult life thus far in and around Missoula, Montana. Darcy is one of those widely admired unicorns who combines pre-social media badassery and a mastery of good ole blue collar climbing with an authentic depth of character and genuine curiosity about the natural world around her. We love Darcy for her raw willingness to share her emotional experience as it relates to relationships and climbing.

Darcy has a background in ER nursing and wilderness medicine curriculum development, and as a professional artist. She is currently studying to become a Psychiatric Nurse Practitioner with a plan to focus on secondary trauma for rescue workers, healthcare providers, and mountain athletes. She works for the Responder Alliance providing resources for clinicians to prevent or address psychological stress injuries. She has also been involved with Mountain Muskox, a Canadian organization that provides facilitated group work for those who have experienced loss or trauma in the mountains. Last but not least, she is a boy-mom to 6-year-old Wolfgang.

In December of last year, Broad Beta held the BroadCast event at the Bozeman Ice Festival. The BroadCast is a night of slideshow presentations, and Darcy presented there about an expedition in Pakistan. Her photos and anecdotes were about so much more than climbing. She talked about partnerships in the mountains, vulnerability in relationships, holding uncertainty, and in the midst of it all still moving forward and making growth-oriented changes in her life.

Check out Darcy's ceramics and occasional musings at @studiochenoweth on Instagram.
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Hosted by Cat Coe and Jeannie Wall
Produced and edited by Cat Coe
Episode music by Holizna Radio
Conclusion music by Rocky Marsiano

www.broadbeta.com

Ever dreamt of putting up first ascents in the alpine as an all female team? This story will inspire you to reach out to your favorite alpinista partner and make it happen. Irmeline de Sadeleer & Maren Salte Kallelid co-authored this story, which was originally published in Tidsskrift for Norsk Alpinklatring (Norwegian Alpine Journal) in 2021. It takes place in Northern Norway, in the picturesque valley of Bjærangen in Norland.

Irmeline and Maren's refreshingly vulnerable accounts of these badass adventures remind us that, though we can appear experienced and confident and all the things, most people experience self-doubt and anxiety in new territory.
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Huge thanks to Irmeline for translating this story to English so that we can all enjoy it.

Follow these awesome ladies on Instagram here:
@irmeline_ds
@marenkallelid

Be sure to check out the Broad Beta website for photos of Irmeline and Maren's adventure by clicking here.
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Hosted & produced by Cat Coe
Intro music by Holizna Radio
Conclusion music by Rocky Marsiano

www.broadbeta.com