In the tradition of Scott and Shackleton, of Amundsen and Franklin, an expedition has been mooted. The Tickler has found a crack in the seamless immensity of the Catskills glacier, and we're going down it. Our guide? Affable, soft-spoken, glitteringly sly and faintly priestly Kirby Olson. Tender Virgil to our twin Dantes. Listen in awe as the Inferno reveals itself to be flat, frozen, featureless, without end. It's disorienting; you know you're heading South, but it feels North. A plain without a feature, bare and brown, no blade of grass, no sign of neighborhood, nothing to eat and nowhere to sit down. Hold your breath, Pilgrims. This is Shelly Winters swimming with a flashlight through the upside down engine-room of the Poseidon, skirt billowing at her armpits, revealing those behemothic ladies' smalls. It may be dark. It will be cold. But Kirby will lead us through the aisles of purgatory with book, bell and banana ...