**I wrote an ode to the mighty and yet largely unsung hero of the seafood world in my last post and forgot to come back and add the recipe. Yeah… well. So! Here it is! Enjoy.

Shrimp cocktail is a splurge, whether you're popping crustaceans at a raw bar or poaching a batch yourself. Each bite should feel like a luxury: plump, snappy, well-chilled meat with a clean, oceanic sweetness that gleams on your palate.

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Nailing that profile is all about poaching the shrimp just right. First, the water must be judiciously seasoned to underscore shrimp's natural brininess. Second, the shrimp must reach, but not exceed, their ideal doneness. That's hard to do well because small, lean shrimp go from raw to rubbery in an instant and because it's hard to monitor the temperature of so many pieces. There are a few unusual steps I take to ensure proper seasoning. First, I brine the shrimp in water laced with both salt and sugar. Then, I also poach them in that brine with more salted water, which enhances the seasoning effects of the brine rather than diluting it as plain water would.

THE ORIGINAL SEAFOOD COCKTAIL

Before modern freezer technology made highly perishable shrimp widely available, cocktail sauce's best mate was the oyster. Popularized in 19th-century San Francisco, the oyster cocktail (or shooter) was shucked bivalves dropped into a glass with their liquor, ketchup, Worcestershire and Tabasco sauces, vinegar, and horseradish. It has been largely eclipsed by the shrimp kind but is still a popular briny bracer. There are few restaurants to this day on the SF waterfront where you cannot find an oyster shooter!

In his book On Food and Cooking (2004), food science writer Harold McGee notes that poached shrimp tastes best when cooked to 140 degrees, and my sous vide tests confirmed that. I cooked batches of jumbo (16-20) shrimp to temperatures ranging from 130 to 180 degrees. At 140 degrees, they were juicy, tender, and just resilient enough to swipe through the cocktail sauce.

As you can see, there are many sizes and, in fact, many varieties of shrimp. Most commonly available are white and pink varietals from the Gulf of Mexico, Mexican brown shrimp, and shrimp that have largely been cultivated using farming techniques in Thailand, sometimes called prawns or tiger prawns. I like to use 16-20 per pound size as they have enough body and character to really enjoy.

Sous vide is great for poaching; just bring the water to 140 degrees and cook the shrimp for 45 to 60 minutes. My question was how to consistently hit that target without relying on sous vide. Drop shrimp into hot water, and if you're not careful, they can overcook in a flash, even if you pull the pot off the heat.

The best approach is to heat the shrimp and water together—a method I call "cold-start poaching." That way, they cook gradually, so there's minimal risk of overshooting the mark. The other key is to monitor the temperature of the water, not the shrimp, which makes it easy to hit the target without temping individual pieces. Once I figured out how high to heat the water (160 degrees), my method worked perfectly, as long as I used the prescribed size of shrimp and volume of water. The results, I promise, are worth the splurge.

SCIENCE!

Poached Shrimp's Sweet Spot for Doneness—and How to Achieve It.

The texture of poached shrimp is just right when we confirm that they're cooked to 140 degrees. At this temperature (the same target doneness we like for lobster), the flesh is nicely plump and tender as well as snappy—perfect for swiping through the cocktail sauce or any other dressing (some ideas at the bottom of the post.) Since it's fussy to take the temperature of shrimp as they cook, we temp the water instead. Provided you use the prescribed size and amount of shrimp and water, the shrimp will reach 140 degrees when the water hits 160 degrees.

TRACK THE WATER TO TRACK THE SHRIMP

We've calibrated the method so that when the water temperature hits 160 degrees, the shrimp hits 140 degrees.

Cold-Start Poaching (does poaching make you a poacher? ;)

Extra shrimp credits:

CHIPOTLE LIME COCKTAIL SAUCE SERVES 8 (MAKES ABOUT I CUP) TOTAL TIME: 10 MINUTES

1 cup ketchup, 1 cup prepared horseradish, 2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro, 2 teaspoons minced canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce, 1 teaspoon grated lime zest plus, 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

Whisk all ingredients in a bowl until combined.

CREAMY CHERMOULA SAUCE SERVES 8 (MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP) TOTAL TIME: 20 MINUTES

1 cup lemon juice (2 lemons), 1 tablespoon honey, 1/2 cup olive oil, 2 garlic cloves, minced, 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika, 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin, 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander, 1/2 teaspoon table salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper, 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons plain Greek yogurt, 4 teaspoons minced fresh mint, 4 teaspoons minced fresh cilantro

Combine lemon juice and honey in a blender. With the blender running on medium-high speed, slowly add canola oil and olive oil until incorporated. Continue to process until mixture is smooth and creamy, 1 to 2 minutes. Add garlic, smoked paprika, cumin, coriander, salt, and pepper and blend until combined, about 10 seconds. Add yogurt and blend until thickened to dipping sauce consistency, about 10 seconds. Transfer sauce to bowl and stir in mint and cilantro. Season with salt to taste.

CREOLE REMOULADE SERVES 8 (MAKES ABOUT I CUP) TOTAL TIME: 10 MINUTES

1 cup mayonnaise, 2 tablespoons whole-grain mustard, 1 tablespoon Louisiana-style hot sauce, 1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley, 2 teaspoons capers, minced, 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce, 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest plus 1 tablespoon juice, 1 garlic clove, minced, 1/2 teaspoon Zartarains Seasoning.

Whisk all ingredients in a bowl until combined.

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Top five myths about eating seafood. (PS - Recipe at the bottom)

Myth number one: The root of the planet's fisheries demise is consumer demand for fish and seafood. Therefore, if we all just stop eating fish, we will solve the problem.

Incorrect. The world's population, in fact, cannot be fed without fish or other seafood. Over 3 billion people around the world depend on fish and seafood as their primary source of protein. Fish supply 17% of all protein consumed in the world. Imagine that if we just took fish off the menu for whatever reason that might be, and then over 3 billion people, a billion with a B would be in food scarcity and in jeopardy of food supply overnight. So now that "we say we can't do that", then what can we do?

Myth number two: Farmed fish and seafood are leading to the demise of wild stocks.

Also not true. Just as we can farm chicken badly, we can farm chicken well. The same holds true for raised fish and seafood. The planet is over 71% water (its surface anyway). With a planet that is projected to have 10 billion people, it is simply unrealistic that we can leave the oceans out of the food-sourcing equation. It is time to recognize that there are sustainable sources of fish and seafood that are not wild. In fact, in the United States alone, we are already eating nearly 65% farmed fish and seafood products. When done correctly, aquaculture uses very little land, water, or feed and has one of the smallest resource footprints of any animal protein production. The aquaculture industry currently produces less than half of 1% of the total greenhouse gas footprint globally, but we can still do better.

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Myth number three: If properly managed, the oceans can keep up with the growing demand for fish and seafood.

Not so over 90% of our oceans are exploited and are fished to over capacity. The issue lies more with large-scale commercial fishing than it does with the consumption of fish and seafood. Overall, humans love to oversimplify a problem, a.k.a. "If we change one specific behavior to get one specific solution." Something as intricate and interconnected as the ocean ecosystem will take multiple solutions to solve the issue. With over 4.6 million fishing boats in our oceans today, it's simply impossible for wild fish populations to keep up with the pace at which we are fishing. The oceans are truly the last wild frontier. They deserve protection in the same way that Yellowstone National Park is protected for its beauty, wild rawness, plants, and animals. If we treat the oceans in the same way, what is called in some conservative circles, a 30x30 model, meaning protecting 30% of our ocean spaces by 2030, while recognizing the need to build a blue food resource, it is possible to restore our oceans to abundance. Even in the face of climate change.

Aquaculture done right will play a vital role in supporting ocean regeneration. By allowing depleted fishers that have that rest, a must-have establishment of additional marine sanctuaries will help build our ocean's biodiversity. To get there, we will have to acknowledge aquaculture's full history, including the good, the bad, and the ugly. Support, ethical, sustainable water farmers, and educate ourselves about the full picture. The United Nations defines 'blue foods' as the aquatic foods that are captured or cultivated from the ocean, rivers, lakes, ponds, raceways, and tanks. Examples of blue foods are sea vegetables, kelp, seaweed, fish, shellfish, and even algae. Red algae is being harvested on land in tanks, as a cattle feed additive that reduces methane emission from cows by up to 80+%. The algae disable certain bacteria that bind methane in the cow.

Myth number four: We can simply shift our food systems to land-based agriculture for the production of alternative protein sources or plant-based seafood.

This is also untrue. The resource is only one factor that makes this option impossible. Another is the fact that over 800 million people globally depend upon these blue foods for their livelihoods. In fact, two-thirds of the blue foods produced globally are from small-scale fisheries and aquaculture systems. Eliminating this is not only unrealistic, but the resulting economic effects would be catastrophic. This is especially true for women as over half of this workforce is female.

Myth number five: There is no way to grow and scale a blue food system that is not only equitable but provides a scalable, nutritious food source.

Blue Foods are critical for nutrition and food security for millions of people around the world. They're a cornerstone of livelihoods, economies, and culture. For many communities, blue foods can transform our food system to ensure equity and sustainability. They will build a more climate change-resilient food system at this most critical time in history.

Here, at the Intentional Table, we must speak of these things. Know your food. All the details if possible. It's about awareness, even if it's not available where you live or is too expensive, know where your food is coming from. It is a matter of health and wellness. Also, whole, fresh ingredients are the keystone of making cuisine work. You simply cannot start with poor quality and make beauty with it. My mentors always, always worked with the finest things that we could afford to procure.

Be well, friends.

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There are certain dishes that always attract me. Shrimp Cocktail. I could wax poetic about it. The shrimp cocktail that I grew up with was from Duff's Smorgasbord.

I was that redheaded kid from the sticks, that when they saw me coming, would start cooking frog legs, and calamari rings and put out a deeper pan of shrimp cocktail. I would tear right in. It was about 40 miles or so to Duff's, so it was an occasion. The various parts of the buffet would rotate into and out of the kitchen (genius) to be replenished. I waited for the hot stuff to enter and I was on it!

Duffs was the 800lb gorilla of 'all you can eat.' It was way over the top.

I would wear the calamari rings on my fingers.

I had a pile of frog bones on my plates and the shrimp cocktail, oh man, was in these tiny coupe cups like an ice cream sundae would be. They were tiny, and I mean almost unseeable pink things, covered, I mean cov-ered in fiesty cocktail sauce.

So, in honor of that spectacular time of my 'proto-cusine' days, I present to you:

Shrimp Cocktail

"How people treat you is their karma; how you react is yours." – Wayne Dyer.

Disclaimer: I have no idea what I am talking about. That will be clear. But it's created with loving intention for you. Also, you may ask, what does this do with the Intentional Table, peas, rice, chicken, etc.? Well, nothing except that here at the Table, if you know your prese…

Read more

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All right now, settle down, let's have a story…

"Once upon a time, nestled in the verdant lap of the Sonoma Valley, stood a venerable cottage, home to the culinary world of Chef Musette. This dwelling was the epicenter of an enchanted world, one where intention whispered into the winds and danced with every leaf, where the sun bestowed ripeness, and the Earth gifted a rich array of vibrant ingredients. Every day, this magic would transpire into creations so divine they were whispered about in towns far and wide, and in many parts of distant nations where wonderous lands rise.

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Chef Musette was not just any chef. She was an artisan of flavor, a maestra of technique, and above all, a fervent disciple of intention. She believed that the first and most important ingredient in any dish was the intention with which it was created.

Each morning, as the sky painted a radiant dawn, Musette would visit the garden. There she'd carefully select fresh, ripe fruits and vegetables, each pulsating with life's zest and blessed by the Earth's generosity. Her fingers would gently trace the plump tomatoes, feel the delicate peas' roundness, sense the fragrant herbs' potency, her heart filled with gratitude for the Earth's bounty.

In the purity of ingredients, Musette found the purity of her intention, the sacred connection between the chef, the ingredient, and the eventual palate. Each was a canvas, holding the potential to transform into a masterpiece of flavor and presentation.

A day in Musette's kitchen was a ballet of skill and creativity. From the gentle simmer of sauces to the rhythmic chop of the knife, every move was graceful, and deliberate, and steeped in a knowledge that spanned decades. Pans would hiss with delight, and the oven hum in anticipation, the air full of tantalizing aromas. Yet, amidst this beautiful chaos, the chef remained a calm conduit, channeling intention into every dish.

Every creation from Musette was an ode to the Earth, a testament to the love and respect she harbored for its ingredients. She honored the ripe plum's sweetness by placing it atop a slice of crusty sourdough, elevated the humble beetroot with a drizzle of honey-thyme glaze, and celebrated the delicate scallop with a touch of citrus. Each dish was a harmonious fusion of simplicity and sophistication, grounded by Musette's deep respect for nature's offerings and seasons in the wheel of the year.

Musette's greatest joy came when she placed these creations before guests, their eyes wide with anticipation, forks poised. She reveled in their expressions as they took their first bites, eyes closing in reverence, faces lighting up in joyous surprise. In those moments, the intention had come full circle - from the Earth, through a heart, into a kitchen, and onto their plates.

This, Musette believed, was the true essence of cuisine, where knowledge of technique and the purity of ingredients met the creativity of the human spirit. It was not just about nourishing the body but also the soul, of creating an experience that went beyond the plate and tapped into something deeply primal.

Cuisine, for Musette, was a co-creation with the Earth, a beautiful dance that began in the soil and ended on the palate. It was a testament to the enduring connection between humans and nature, a dialogue of love, respect, and gratitude. A dance that, under the maestra's watchful eye and caring hand, became an enchanting symphony of flavor, a celebration of life itself.

The story of Musette is a reminder of the beauty of intention, the simplicity of purity, and the marvel of creativity in cuisine. It shows that every bite we take can be a story, a melody, an artwork, an affirmation of life's richness - if only we cook and eat with intention, with love.

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And so, in the quaint valley of Sonoma, the culinary creative dance continues one plate at a time, in harmony with the Earth, forever echoing the mantra - that the beauty of intention is the true heart of cuisine.

May we find you at the Intentional Table soon!