As the Eurostar glided out of Amsterdam Centraal Station on July 4th, I settled into my seat.
I pulled out my iPhone charger, wiggling the prongs of its green converter until it found purchase in the outlet near my ankle. I rummaged in my tote bag for my Lechturnem dot-grid journal, its pages fat with scribbles and scraps from the pilgrim path, and slid it into the netted seat pocket at eye level. My mesh pen case found a home snuggled up next to it. Command center complete, I swiveled left to stare out the window at the cityscape as it slid by. Backwards.
I prefer a forward-facing train seat. Looking at where I’ve been, rather than where I’m going, makes me queasy. (In more ways than one.) But this was the only solo berth on the Eurostar app’s seating map with an unobstructed window view. And I knew exactly how I wanted to spend this four-hour journey: gawking at the lives of the Dutch, the Belgians, the French, the Brits as we raced through Rotterdam, Brussels, Lille, London.
And thinking/writing about them in comparison to my own nation, on this 250th birthday of America. I put my elbow on the armrest, balanced my chin on the shelf of my palm, and stared.
Familiar sights came into view: power stations, water tanks, cranes, graffiti. I could have been on the Acela from DC to NYC, except for the Dutch language signage with words I had no hope of pronouncing. Then, the voice of the train conductor broke into my brain, telling us everything we needed to know. But first in Dutch. Then French. And last but not least, English.
Yeah, that’s not happening on Amtrak.
So while immersed in the sights and sounds and (backwards) motion that felt like a left-of-center simulation of home, my mind wandered to a topic that had been taking up a lot of head space on the trail. Specifically, my identity as an American.
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The pilgrim path breaks you down.
I don’t mean by beating you to a pulp (although there are moments of that), I mean by breaking you down into your component parts. Something about going back to basics makes the different parts of you more… visible. Evident. Unavoidable.
Once that happens — and the components of you are laying all over the forest floor like some IKEA bookshelf deconstructed into nuts and bolts and particleboard bits — you can take a good hard look at those pieces.
This unfolds at a tangible level as you meet new people daily. What’s the first thing you tell them about yourself? I found my default was mom — two working stiff kids back home made for a good story, and so a good entry into conversation. That would lead to revealing my past corporate life, and quick aside about being a writer now. Widow would come up when the conversation went deeper, perhaps when sharing my experience and motivations from pilgrimage 1.0. My western PA background also emerged because I couldn’t help comparing it to the rural areas of Norway I was walking through.
But the most obvious thing about me to a Norwegian host or a Swiss pilgrim or a Dutchie sitting across from me at breakfast was where I’m from. My appearance didn’t give it away; many people spoke to me in Norwegian before the clueless look on my face course-corrected their mistaken impression. But as soon as I opened my mouth, it was over. It was my accent, sure, of course. But even more what I project: a boldness, a casualness, a friendliness. There is no doubt I’m American.
But I sure as heck didn’t lead with that. And when my country of origin did inevitably come up, I would rush by it, hoping to collaborate with my European conversation partners on a ‘nothing-to-see-here’ vibe. Frankly, I’d been doing this for decades, wary of being pigeon-holed as the ugly American abroad. I was pretty sure it was better this way for everyone — me politely refraining from rubbing our stereotypical self-centeredness in their faces, while they politely gave me opportunities to prove I was ‘one of the good ones’.
But the more interactions I had on the pilgrim trail, the more I realized a lot of my American judgement was mine and mine alone. Yes, upon confirming I was American, proprietors and pilgrims would express bafflement about the changes in our country. They’d ask a few curious questions. Then they’d share their own stories of America, their favorite American TV shows, movies, music. The places they’d visited, and the places they aspired to see. They were actually eager to talk to me about America, making my ‘let’s not talk about this’ plan relatively worthless.
Eventually I had to acknowledge that these Northern Europeans don’t like me DESPITE the fact that I’m American. They actually liked me for all the things being American has made me: open, curious, interested, supportive.
During the pilgrimage, I was on a news blackout. Except for the World Cup. I’d open my New York Times app while holding my hand over 80% of the screen so I could quickly tap the “World Cup” tab at the top without getting sucked into the headlines.
My phone of course did that magical/creepy thing where now Instagram also knew I was into the World Cup, and started delivering me reels by Europeans who were visiting the US for the matches and, astonishingly, were almost all offering Americans an apology.
Side by side, while on different sides of the Atlantic, me and these shocked tourists were realizing the same thing: American politics are one thing, but the American people, with our American values and personality and big smiles, are a whole other.
Day after day, kilometer after kilometer, I was chewing on this. This mismatch between the portrayal of the US’s global dealings and the American people’s genuine way of being. Between the stories from the US that make the international news and the way I experience my friends and neighbors. Between the trepidation I carry abroad and the appreciation other pilgrims expressed for my overt friendliness... Until a new way of relating to my American-ness solidified near the end of my journey.
Over breakfast at Ner-Grefstad gard, I sat with 70+ year old proprietors Nils-Erik and Lila, their tiny cat rubbing circles around my calves. We chatted about Nils-Erik’s generations-old family-run farm up the hill. About Lila’s birthplace, the tiny island of Sula off the Norwegian coast, and how her fisherman father died when she was four. About all the pilgrims they have coming through from all around the world, amounting to several hundred each summer.
In the looping conversation, so intimate in such a short time, we came back to where my people are from: Mingo Junction, Steubenville, Shadyside, Ohio. Coal mining, industrial, blue-collar towns along the Ohio River. These are where my people raised their families and earned their living. This is the source of my Americanness. Great-grandparents who emigrated from Poland and Russia and God-knows-where. Some who literally came over on the boat. They were brave and bold and worked incredibly hard. The fact that in 2026 I was gallivanting my way through Norway was a direct outcome of their commitment and struggle a hundred years ago. They risked everything to find and build a better life.
I welled up while I was relating my origin story. (Geez, so much freaking crying on the pilgrim path!) Lila and Nils-Erik patiently waited until I caught my breath.
“I’m proud to be an American.” I croaked through my tight throat.
Lila put her hand on my shoulder. “You should be, dear. You should be.”
What was I thinking, downplaying that??
I take enormous pride in my ancestors and history. Why am I swapping that for shame about what it means to be an American today? Pffffft. NO. No longer. Not any more.
I must do my part to continue contributing to the American experiment. To honor my great grandparents, their sacrifices, and their stubborn optimism.
I’m their American legacy. And of that, I could not possibly be more proud.
Back on the train, another couple of notebook pages were filled with scribbles. I looked up at the announcement monitor to see a cartoon figure toting a cup of steaming tea. Suddenly, I was parched.
Time for a visit to the cafe car.
I wobbled my way from carriage #1 to carriage #8, the speed of the Eurostar far outpacing the Acela. My sea legs were rusty after all those hours walking, and I clutched the handrails for dear life. As the last set of sliding glass doors closed behind me, déjà vu set in. This cafe car was the same configuration as the Acela’s, a curved counter, a coffee machine, a space to wait in a tidy line.
When it was my turn, the dude spoke to me in Dutch.
I shook my head, “Ah, sorry, I only have English.” The rote response I’d shared 1,000 times in the last month.
“Oh, no problem, what will you have?”
“Tea, please,” I replied.
“Our machine is struggling a little today, it’s going to take a minute to heat up. And I know you British like your tea hot!” He smiled.
Without a moment of hesitation I said, loud and proud, in front of 20 people of who-knows-what nationality in that packed cafe car, “I’m not British. I’m American. I’ll take my tea whatever temperature you wanna give it to me.”
He laughed.
“And besides, it’s our birthday today, the day we got free of those Brits!” I chuckled.
He cocked his head and laughed. “Well, Happy Birthday to America!” Then he slid a square of chocolate across the counter, “a little something for your special day.”
I smiled as I made my way, hand over hand, back to my seat. It was a special day — a day worth celebrating for a country worth celebrating. I don’t care about your politics, and I hope you don’t care about mine, but may we always care about the people who have made, and continue to make, America something to celebrate.
To the USA,
Sue
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