Guadalajara, Mexico. In addition to its great architecture, ancient and contemporary art, cowboys and hundreds of flavours of Tequila, it's also the birthplace of Mariachi music. You'll hear it everywhere; at weddings, baptisms, funerals and special occasions. But it's also performed on streets, across Jalisco state for no reason other than pure pleasure. Mariachi has long been the domain of men, but in Guadalajara these days, it's women who are leading the charge.

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